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DOR  {PEDRO  II. 


I DOWRA  IF  RAWC0e<CA. 


DOR  RAJ  ANUAR1A. 


IMPERIAL  FAMILY  OF  BRAZIL 


SKETCHES 


OF 


RESIDENCE  AND  TRAVELS 


BRAZIL, 

EMBRACING 


HISTORICAL  AND  GEOGRAPHICAL  NOTICES  OF  THE  EMPIRE 

AND  ITS  SEVERAL  PROVINCES. 


BY 

daniel  p.  Bidder. 


IN  TWO  VOLUMES — WITH  ILLUSTRATIONS. 

VOL.  II. 


PHILADELPHIA  : 

SORIN  & BALL. 
LONDON  : WILEY  & PUTNAM. 

1845. 


Entered,  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1845,  by 
SORIN  & BALL, 

In  the  Clerk’s  Office  of  the  District  Court  of  the  United  States,  of  the 
Eastern  District  of  Pennsylvania. 


Stereotyped  by  J.  C.  D.  Christman  & Co. 
T.  K.  & P.  G.  Collins,  Printers. 


CONTENTS  OF  VOL.  II. 


CHAPTER  I. 

Communication  between  Rio  de  Janeiro  and  the  river  Amazon. — ■ 
Preparations  for  a Voyage.  Embarkation  and  Departure. — Cape 
Frio. — Wreck  of  the  Thetis. — Macahe. — Campos. — St.  Sebastian 
Steamer. — Captain. — Passengers. — Espirito  Santo.— Rio  Doce. — 
Abrolhos. — Land  rout  to  Bahia. — Prince  Maximillian. — Condition 
of  the  Country. — Entrance  to  Bahia. — The  Lower  Town. — Lack 
of  Carriages. — Carrier  Negroes. — Cadeiras. — Site  of  Bahia. — Upper 
Town. — Excursion  to  Rio  Vermelho. — Public  Cemetery. — Whale 
Fishery. — English  Chapel. — Public  Buildings  of  the  City.  p.  9 

CHAPTER  n. 

HISTORICAL  SKETCH  OF  BAHIA. 

Discovery  of  the  Bay. — Foundation  of  the  City. — Caramuru. — The 
Capital  of  Portuguese  America. — Attacks  of  the  Dutch. — A Slide. 
— A Pestilence. — Selection  of  a Patron  Saint. — A Mutiny  quelled 
by  the  Wafer.  — Gipsies.  — The  Pillory.  — Monasticism.  — The 
Slave  Trade.  - - - - - - 28 


CHAPTER  III. 

Transfer  of  the  Capital. — Arrival  of  Don  John  VI. — Carta  Regia. — 
First  Printing  Press. — Public  Library. — Steam  Sugar-Mill. — Exe- 
cution of  a Priest. — Civil  War  of  1822. — War  of  Independence. — 
Expulsion  of  the  Portuguese. — Rebellion  of  1837. — Second  en- 
trance to  Bahia. — Festivities  of  the  Emperor’s  Birth-day. — Te 
Deum. — Illumination. — Excursion  up  the  Bay. — Beauties  of  Bahia. 
— Henry  Martyn.— Fire-works.  - - - - 47 

CHAPTER  IV. 

American  Cemetery. — Image  Factories. — Ecclesiastical  Establish- 
ment.— Franciscan  Monks. — Miraculous  Image. — Promotion  of 
St.  Anthony. — Benedictines. — Carmelites. — Nunneries. — Recolhi- 

iii 


VI 


CONTENTS. 


Abranches. — Movements  of  the  Admiral. — His  Cotton  Specula- 
tion. .......  234 


CHAPTER  XV. 

Inland  Passage  to  Para. — Voyage  by  Sea. — Entrance  of  the  Ama- 
zon.— Pororoca. — Ascent  of  the  River. — Arrival  at  Para. — Bethel 
Service. — Location  and  Appearance  of  the  City. — Style  of  Build- 
ings.— Public  Walk. — Botanical  Garden. — The  Suburbs. — The 
People. — Indians. — Soldiers. — River  Craft. — Bathing. — Produc- 
tions of  the  Province. — A Home. — The  Palace. — License  of  Resi- 
dence.— Pinheiros. — Una. — Maguary. — An  Amazonian  Forest. — 
Geological  Formation. — Rice  Mills.  - - 259 


CHAPTER  XVI. 


Indigenous  Productions  of  Para. — India  Rubber. — Massarandiiba 

Annato. — Cacao. — Botany. — Vaca  Marina. — Turtle-egg  Butter. — 
Convents. — Cathedral. — Paintings  vs.  Images. — Bentinhos. — An- 
nual Festivities. — The  Procession. — The  Crowd. — Amusements. 
— The  Results. — An  Evening  Scene. — Morning. — Water  Carriers. 


CHAPTER  XVn. 


281 


Amazonia. — Its  Discovery. — El  Dorado. — Gongalo  Pizarro. — His  Ex- 
pedition.— Cruelties. — Sufferings. — Desertion  of  Orellana. — His 
Descent  of  the  River. — Fable  of  the  Amazons. — Fate  of  the  Ad- 
venturer.— Name  of  the  River. — Settlement  of  the  Country. — Suc- 
cessive Expeditions  up  and  down  the  Amazon. — Sufferings  of 
Madame  Godin. — Present  State. — Steam  Navigation. — History. — 
Revolution  of  1823. — Prison  Ship. — Disorders  of  1835. — Result  of 
Early  Cruelties. — Religion  and  Education. — The  Bible  in  Para. 

300 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 


Rout  from  Para  to  Matto  Grosso. — From  Matto  Grosso  to  Rio  de 
Janeiro. — Name. — Extent  and  Condition  of  the  Province. — Goyaz. 
— Boundaries. — Productions. — Indians. — Mineral  Waters. — State 
of  Society. — Famine  among  the  Gold  Hunters. — Schools. — State 
of  the  Arts. — Frequency  of  Travels  in  these  Regions  compared 
with  those  on  the  Coast. — Spix  and  Martius. — Russian  Embassy. 
— Unhappy  Issue. — Minas  Geraes. — Extent. — Population. — Fer- 
tility.— Mines. — English  Mining  Company. — Agriculture. — Lack 
of  Roads. — Schools. — Improvements.  ...  322 


CONTENTS. 


yii 


CHAPTER  XIX, 

Departure  from  Para. — Voyage  to  Maranham. — A Student  without 
a Passport. — Passengers. — Ceara. — A Thieving  Jangadeiro. — The 
Coast.  — Pernambuco.  — Bahia.  — The  Orientale.  — Polytechnic 
School  Afloat. — Customs  on  Board. — Entrance  to  Rio  de  Janeiro 
by  Night. — The  Expedition. — Mission  to  the  Seamen  of  Rio. — 
General  Results  of  Missionary  Efforts. — Sudden  Bereavement.  336 

CHAPTER  XX. 

Condition  of  Political  Parties  before  the  Revolution  of  1840. — De- 
bates in  the  House  of  Deputies. — Attempt  at  Prorogation. — Move- 
ment of  Antonio  Carlos. — Co-operation  of  the  Senate. — Deputation 
to  the  Emperor. — Permanent  Session. — Acclamation  of  Don  Pe- 
dro’s Majority. — Imperial  Oath. — The  Assembly’s  Proclamation. 
Rejoicings. — New  Ministry. — Public  Congratulations.  - 354 

CHAPTER  XXI. 

Real  state  of  Things. — Ministerial  Programme. — Progress  of  Affairs. 
— Preparations  for  the  Coronation. — Change  of  Ministry. — Oppo- 
sition come  into  Power. — Coronation  Postponed. — Finally  took 
place  July  18th,  1841. — Splendor  of  the  Occasion. — Financial  Em- 
barrassments.— Insignia. — Diplomacy. — Dissolution  of  the  Cama- 
ra.— Pretext  of  Outbreaks. — Council  of  State. — Reforms  of  Crimi- 
nal Code. — S.  Paulo. — Minas. — The  Capital. — Restoration  of  Order. 
— Session  of  the  Assembly. — Imperial  Marriages. — Ministerial 
Change. — Politics  in  1844.  ....  367 

CHAPTER  XXII. 

Indians. — Jesuits. — Survey  of  the  Empire. — Its  Position. — Extent. — 
Influences  of  the  Mother  Country. — Finances. — Lack  of  Popula- 
tion. — Immigration.  — Defective  Policy.  — The  Slave  Trade.  — 
Treaty  with  England.  — Education.  — Obstacles.  — Literature. — 
Language. — Religion. — Prospects.  ...  384 


EMBELLISHMENTS  OF  VOL.  II 


FRONTISPIECE — IMPERIAL  FAMILY. 


NEGRO  CARRIERS,  - 

- 

- 

- 

- 

- 

PAGE  20 

CADEIRA, 

- 

- 

- 

- 

- 

22 

BAHIA, 

- 

- 

- 

- 

- 

63 

PADRE  READING  TRACTS, 

- 

- 

- 

- 

- 

85 

WATER  JARS, 

- 

- 

- 

- 

- 

95 

PERNAMBUCO, 

- 

- 

- 

- 

- 

118 

VISCOUNT  OF  OLINDA, 

- 

- 

- 

- 

- 

155 

JANGADA, 

- 

- 

- 

- 

- 

178 

SERTANEJOS  CARRYING  COTTON, 

- 

- 

- 

- 

204 

PAVIOLA, 

- 

- 

- 

- 

- 

217 

A REDE; 

- 

- 

- 

■ 

- 

240 

MONTARIA, 

- 

- 

• 

- 

- 

245 

AMAZONIAN  CANOE, 

- 

* 

- 

- 

- 

269 

MANUFACTURE  OF  INDIA  RUBBER  SHOES, 

- 

- 

- 

283 

VACA  MARINA, 

- 

- 

- 

- 

- 

286 

ENGLISH  CEMETERY,  - 

- 

- 

- 

- 

- 

353 

VASCONCELLOS, 

- 

. 

. 

. 

. 

373 

viii 


SKETCHES  OF  BRAZIL. 


CHAPTER  I. 

Communication  between  Rio  de  Janeiro  and  the  river  Amazon. — Pre- 
parations for  a voyage. — Embarkation  and  Departure — Cape  Frio. — 
Wreck  of  the  Thetis. — Macahe. — Campos. — St.  Sebastian  Steamer. — 
Captain. — Passengers. — Espirito  Santo. — Rio  Doce. — Abrolhos. — 
Land  route  to  Bahia. — Prince  Maximillian. — Condition  of  the  Coun- 
try.— Entrance  to  Bahia. — The  Lower  Town. — Lack  of  Carriages. — 
Carrier  Negroes. — Cadeiras. — Site  of  Bahia. — Upper  Town. — Excur- 
sion to  Rio  Vermelho. — Public  Cemetery. — Whale  Fishery. — English 
Chapel. — Public  Buildings  of  the  City. 

My  voyage  along  the  northern  coast  of  Brazil,  was 
undertaken  at  an  interesting  and  a favorable  epoch. 
Up  to  the  year  1839,  there  had  never  existed  any 
means  of  regular  and  rapid  communication  between 
the  capital  and  the  extreme  portions  of  the  empire, 
particularly  the  far  north.  Few  commercial  houses  in 
R io  de  Janeiro  had  correspondents  in  any  of  the  ports 
north  of  Pernambuco;  and  not  unfrequently  political 
intelligence  from  Maranham  and  Para,  was  received 
at  the  capital  by  way  of  England  and  the  United 
States,  earlier  than  by  direct  dispatches.  Such, 
moreover,  were  the  difficulties  interposed  by  the  regu- 
lar trade  winds,  and  by  the  strong  currents  that  set 
to  leeward  of  Cape  St.  Roque,  that  they  could  be 
overcome  by  no  enterprise  short  of  steam  navigation. 
To  meet  so  important  an  exigency,  the  Brazilian 
Vol.  II. — 2 9 


10 


PREPARATIONS  FOR  A VOYAGE. 


Steam  Packet  Company  had  been  organized,  under 
the  patronage  of  the  imperial  government.  Its  design 
was  to  convey  mails  and  passengers  regularly,  together 
with  freight  and  munitions  of  war  occasionally,  between 
the  different  ports  along  the  coast;  and  in  short,  to 
establish  a bond  of  connection  between  Rio  de  Janeiro 
and  the  river  Amazon.  The  boats  of  this  company 
were  constructed  in  England  for  this  express  service, 
and  had  just  arrived  on  the  coast.  They  were  named 
after  the  principal  ports  at  which  they  were  to  touch, 
in  the  following  order,  viz : the  St.  Sebastian,  the  Ba- 
hiana,  the  Pernambucana,  the  Maranhense,  and  the 
Paraense. 

The  St.  Sebastian  had  just  returned  from  her  first 
voyage,  which  had  been  every  way  successful,  and  was 
advertised  to  leave  again  for  the  northern  ports  on  the 
first  day  of  July.  A voyage  in  that  direction  had  been 
for  sometime  contemplated  by  Mr.  Spaulding,  but  cir- 
cumstances transpired  which  now  made  it  his  choice 
that  I should  go ; active  preparations  were  accord- 
ingly made.  In  order  that  our  families  might  dwell 
under  the  same  roof  during  my  necessarily  long  ab- 
sence, we  resolved  upon  a simultaneous  removal  to 
the  Largo  d’Ajuda.  We  had  already  prepared,  as 
auxiliaries  to  our  evangelical  labors,  four  new  tracts  in 
the  Portuguese  language,  specially  adapted  to  the 
wants  of  Brazil.  Of  these  we  now  printed  large  edi- 
tions. A fresh  supply  of  Bibles,  Testaments,  and 
Psalters,  from  the  United  States,  had  just  passed 
through  the  Alfandega  in  time  for  reshipment,  by 
means  of  which  I was  still  more  thoroughly  furnished 
for  good  words  and  works. 

Through  the  kindness  of  different  gentlemen,  nume- 


EMBARKATION  AND  DEPARTURE.  11 

rous  and  valuable  letters  of  introduction — in  English, 
Portuguese,  and  French — had  been  placed  in  my 
hands.  Finally,  my  passport  was  taken  out  in  time, 
and  my  passage  paid — so  that  Sabbath,  the  last  day  of 
June,  was  spent  as  that  day  should  ever  be,. in  unin- 
terrupted religious  services.  In  the  morning  I preached 
under  the  Bethel  flag,  to  a congregation  of  seamen  on 
board  the  American  brig  Congress,  and  at  evening  to 
an  attentive  audience  in  the  mission-house  at  the 
Largo  d’Ajuda. 

On  Monday,  July  first,  after  having  embarked  my 
baggage  through  the  consulado,  and  taken  leave  of  my 
wife — who,  in  charge  of  an  infant  son  and  daughter, 
was  to  remain  at  Rio  de  Janeiro — I was  accompanied 
by  Mr.  Spaulding  on  board  the  steamer.  Dark  volumes 
of  bituminous  smoke  rolled  up  from  the  pipes  of  the 
St.  Sebastian,  as  she  rounded  the  Ilha  das  Cobras  and 
came  abreast  of  the  city.  At  the  appointed  signal  we 
pushed  off  in  a boat  from  the  Largo  do  Pa^o,  and  were 
soon  on  board.  Visiting  officers  and  friends  at  length 
took  their  leave,  and  just  as  the  sun  was  setting  our 
boat  passed  under  the  guns  of  Fort  Santa  Cruz,  and 
sought  the  open  Atlantic  in  the  teeth  of  a strong  sea- 
breeze,  before  which  a sloop-of-war  and  several  other 
vessels,  under  a press  of  canvas,  were  making  a rapid 
entrance  into  the  harbor. 

The  next  morning,  at  nine  o’clock,  we  were  abreast 
of  Cape  Frio,  the  great  landmark  for  this  section  of 
the  coast.  It  is,  in  fact,  a promontory,  and  the  termi- 
nus of  a long  range  of  mountains  by  which  the  coast  is 
barricaded  to  the  west  and  south.  A huge  oval  mass 
of  granite  here  marks  the  spot  where  the  line  of  coast 
turning  to  the  north,  forms  nearly  a right  angle. 


12 


WRECK  OF  THE  THETIS. 


Some  years  ago  the  English  frigate  Thetis,  bound 
homeward  at  the  expiration  of  a cruise  in  the  Pacific, 
was  wrecked  upon  Cape  Frio.  This  vessel,  on  leaving 
the  harbor  of  Rio  w'here  she  had  touched,  had  en- 
countered foul  weather.  After  struggling  against  it 
till  it  was  presumed  she  had  cleared  the  coast,  she  bore 
away  on  her  course.  The  darkness  of  the  night  was 
impenetrable,  and  the  wind  being  strong,  the  ship  wras 
running  eight  or  ten  knots  an  hour,  when,  without  the 
slightest  warning  or  apprehension  of  danger  by  any  one 
on  hoard,  she  dashed  upon  this  rocky  bulwark.  The 
officers  and  crew,  in  the  shock  and  consternation  of 
the  moment,  had  barely  time  to  transfer  themselves  to 
contiguous  portions  of  the  promontory,  before  the  shi- 
vered frigate  went  to  the  bottom.  Most  of  those  on 
board  were  saved  by  being  drawn,  and  by  drawing 
themselves  up,  on  shelves  of  the  rock  out  of  the 
reach  of  the  waves,  where,  in  the  most  constrained 
position,  they  were  forced  to  remain  throughout  the 
dismal  night. 

I have  frequently  conversed  with  a person  who  was 
a midshipman  on  board  the  Thetis  at  the  time,  but 
upon  whom  the  horrors  of  that  dreadful  scene  made 
such  an  impression,  as  to  cause  him  to  abandon  the 
ocean  from  that  day  forward,  not  even  returning  to  his 
native  land.  A good  light-house  has  since  been  con- 
structed upon  Cape  Frio,  which  at  the  present  time 
renders  the  approach  of  the  navigator  nearly  as  safe 
by  night  as  it  is  by  day. 

From  this  point  the  coast  stretching  to  the  north  is 
low  and  sandy.  About  ten  miles  distant  is  a small 
town,  which  as  early  as  1615  received  the  name  of  the 
city  of  Cape  Frio.  Since  that  period  it  has  improved 


CAMPOS. 


13 


but  little,  although  it  has  a safe  harbor,  and  is  sur- 
rounded by  some  fertile  land.  The  marshes  in  its 
vicinity  produce  salt. 

The  next  port  on  the  coast  is  Macahe,  near  the  mouth 
of  a small  river  by  the  same  name.  Both  these  ports 
are  touching  places  for  small  steamers  which  ply  be- 
tween Rio  de  Janeiro  and  Campos,  formerly  called  S. 
Salvador,  a flourishing  village  twenty  miles  up  the 
Parahiba  river.  The  vast  region  surrounding  the  last 
mentioned  town,  is  known  as  the  Campos  dos  Goyata- 
kazes,  or  plains  of  the  Goyatakaz  Indians,  the  abori- 
ginal inhabitants.  It  is  a rich  tract  of  country,  and 
has,  for  beauty,  been  compared  to  the  Elysian  fields. 
Campos  is  situated  on  the  western  bank  of  the  river. 
The  town  has  regular  and  well-paved  streets,  with 
some  fine  houses.  Its  commerce  is  extensive,  employ- 
ing a vast  number  of  coasting  smacks  to  export  its 
sugar,  its  rum,  its  coffee,  and  its  rice.  The  sugars  of 
Campos  are  said  by  some  to  be  the  best  in  Brazil. 

After  passing  Cape  Frio,  the  course  of  the  St.  Se- 
bastian was  about  north  by  east.  The  boat  was  hea- 
vily laden  with  the  coals  necessary  for  her  voyage,  and 
her  engines  having  only  one  hundred  horse  power,  did 
not  enable  her  to  progress  on  an  average  over  five 
knots  an  hour  for  the  first  two  or  three  days.  I had 
supposed  her  possessed  of  better  sailing  capacities  ; 
but  even  when  lightened  of  her  coals,  and  having  a 
piping  breeze  behind  her,  she  did  not  make  more  than 
eight  and  a half  knots  per  hour ; however,  she  was  a 
safe  sea-boat,  and  her  machinery  worked  with  ease. 
Her  captain  was  an  Englishman,  who  had  served  his 
maritime  apprenticeship  in  the  service  of  the  East  In- 
dia Company.  He  had  subsequently  visited  the  United 

B 


14 


ESPIRITO  SANTO. 


States,  crossed  the  Rocky  Mountains  to  Oregon,  spent 
two  years  on  the  western  coast  of  America,  returning 
to  England  round  Cape  Horn.  One  element  of  his 
present  ambition  was  to  earn  money  enough  to  buy  a 
farm  in  Michigan,  and  retire  from  business. 

The  engineers,  officers,  and  seamen  of  the  boat  were 
nearly  all  English  ; while,  in  the  cabin,  a colonel  of  the 
Brazilian  army,  three  Englishmen  and  myself,  composed 
the  entire  list  of  passengers.  This  colonel  had  repeat- 
edly distinguished  himself  for  his  bravery,  and  was  the 
officer  to  whom,  more  than  to  any  other,  Bahia  owed 
its  restoration  from  the  late  rebellion.  He  had  sub- 
sequently been  sent  to  Rio  Grande  do  Sul,  where  his 
health  had  failed  him,  and  he  was  now  returning  home 
to  his  family  in  Pernambuco.  His  society  was  highly 
interesting  and  agreeable.  I should  be  pleased  to 
speak  as  favorably  of  the  other  tenants  of  the  cabin, 
but  their  devotion  to  the  silly  game  of  cards,  to  strong 
drink,  and  to  profane  language,  forbids.  By  day  and 
by  night  they  were  gambling  for  every  imaginable 
thing,  and  seemed  to  think  themselves  brave  and  happy 
when  thus  employed.  This  circumstance  deserves 
mention  solely  as  being  in  contrast  to  the  good  order 
and  decent  conduct  which  I almost  always  observed 
among  the  Brazilians,  with  whom  I happened  at  dif- 
ferent times  to  be  a fellow  passenger. 

We  were  now  on  the  coast  of  Espirito  Santo.  This 
province  embraces  the  old  captaincy  of  the  same  name 
and  part  of  that  of  Porto  Seguro.  It  is  hounded  by 
Rio  de  Janeiro  on  the  south,  Minas  Geraes  on  the 
west,  and  Bahia  on  the  north.  Although  this  portion 
of  the  coast  was  that  discovered  by  Cabral,  and  settled 
by  the  first  Donataries,  yet  it  is  still  but  thinly  inhabit- 


THE  ABROLHOS. 


15 


ed,  and  has  not  made  the  improvements  that  may  he 
found  in  most  other  parts.  Its  soil  is  fertile,  and  espe- 
cially adapted  to  the  cultivation  of  sugar-cane,  toge- 
ther with  most  of  the  intertropical  productions.  Its 
forests  furnish  precious  woods  and  useful  drugs,  and 
its  waters  abound  with  valuable  fish.  Yet  vast  regions 
of  its  territory  are  only  roamed  by  savage  tribes,  who 
still  make  occasional  plundering  incursions  upon  the 
settlements.  Surveys  have  recently  been  instituted 
upon  the  river  Doce,  from  which  it  is  thought  practica- 
ble to  render  that  stream  navigable  to  small  steamers. 
An  organized  company  has  this  enterprise  in  charge, 
and  proposes  to  open  a new  and  direct  means  of  trans- 
port between  the  coast  and  the  province  of  Minas 
Geraes.  Should  this  undertaking  succeed  it  will  be 
of  great  importance,  not  only  to  the  province  of  Espi- 
rito  Santo  and  Minas  Geraes,  but  also  to  the  city  of 
Bahia,  to  which  large  quantities  of  the  produce  ex- 
ported would  be  directly  conveyed. 

On  the  6th  of  July  we  were  in  the  neighborhood  of 
the  Abrolhos,  four  small  rocky  islands  about  ninety 
miles  from  the  shore,  in  the  eighteenth  degree  of  south 
latitude.  These  islands  are  low,  and  dangerous  to  navi- 
gators. In  fact  they  are  nothing  more  than  projec- 
tions from  a bank  of  rocks,  which  exhibits  itself  occa- 
sionally between  the  seventeenth  and  twenty-fifth  de- 
grees of  south  latitude,  at  a distance  of  from  two  to 
ten  leagues  from  the  main  land.  Besides  these  rocky 
shoals  there  is  also  a regular  reef  of  rocks  running  quite 
near  the  shore,  and  generally  parallel  with  it,  the  whole 
distance  from  Cape  Frio  to  Maranham.  Espirito 
Santo,  Porto  Seguro,  Ilheos,  and  in  fact  nearly  all  the 
ports  along  the  entire  coast,  as  will  hereafter  appear, 


16 


PRINCE  MAXIMILLIAN. 


are  formed  by  opening's  in  tiiis  reef.  The  name  Abrol- 
hos  is  compounded  from  two  Portuguese  words,  sig- 
nifying “ open  your  eyes.”  As  we  approached  them, 
however,  it  was  growing  dark,  and  we  preferred  trust- 
ing to  the  lead  rather  than  to  our  eyes.  Soundings 
were  taken  which  gave  successively  thirty  fathoms, 
twenty-five,  seventeen,  and  twenty-seven.  We  then 
bore  away  due  north,  and  gained  a few  points  more 
of  a fine  breeze. 

The  distance  from  Rio  de  Janeiro  to  Bahia  is  about 
eight  hundred  miles.  There  is  no  large  city  or  flourish- 
ing port  on  the  coast,  nor  is  there  a single  direct  or 
beaten  road  through  the  interior.  The  only  author 
who  has  ever  traveled  over  this  portion  of  Brazil  by 
land  is  Prince  Maximillian,  of  Neuwied.  Few  natu- 
ralists have  exhibited  more  enthusiasm,  and  few  tra- 
velers more  persevering  industry,  than  did  his  roval 
highness  in  passing  through  these  wild  and  unculti- 
vated regions.  It  is  difficult  to  form  an  idea  of  the 
impediments,  annoyances,  and  dangers  which  he  had 
to  surmount,  such  as  dense  and  thorny  vegetation,  in- 
sect plagues,  among  which  were  the  most  formidable 
wasps’  and  hornets’  nests,  wild  beasts,  venomous  rep- 
tiles, and  rivers  without  bridges.  Yet  such  was  the 
interest  and  cheerfulness  with  which  the  prince  per- 
formed his  journeys,  that  he  described  his  condition  by 
saying,  “ although  scratched  and  maimed  by  thorns, 
soaked  by  the  rains,  exhausted  by  incessant  perspira- 
tion caused  by  the  heat,  yet  nevertheless  the  traveler 
is  transported  in  view  of  the  magnificent  vegetation.” 
II  is  travels  in  Brazil  were  accomplished  between  the 
years  1815  and  1818,  and  the  rich  and  interesting 
work  in  which  he  gave  their  results  to  the  world  fur- 


CONDITION  OF  THE  COUNTRY. 


IT 


nishes  up  to  the  present  day  the  best  account  we  have 
of  the  scenery  and  of  the  people  on  this  section  of  the 
coast.  No  part  of  South  America  of  equal  extent  and 
importance,  has  been  less  agitated  by  the  revolutions 
of  the  last  half  century.  Its  form  of  government  has, 
indeed,  been  repeatedly  modified,  but  the  character 
and  condition  of  the  inhabitants  have  not  been  suscep- 
tible of  equally  rapid  changes.  Under  the  present 
regimen,  there  has  been  a gradual  improvement;  yet, 
up  to  1839,  the  whole  province  of  Espirito  Santo  con- 
tained not  a single  printing  press.  Many  of  its  churches, 
built  with  great  expense  by  the  early  settlers,  were 
going  to  decay.  Nothing  whatever  was  doing  towards 
civilizing  or  instructing  the  Indians ; and,  amidst  a 
population  of  forty-three  thousand,  there  were  only 
seven  primary  schools  in  actual  operation.  Neverthe- 
less various  improvements  were  contemplated,  which 
we  hope  will  be  fully  realized. 

On  the  sixth  day  of  our  voyage,  land  was  discovered 
about  one  o’clock  p.  M.  It  proved  to  be  the  lower  ex- 
tremity of  the  island  of  Itaparica.  The  entire  coast 
was  low,  and  little  could  be  seen,  save  here  and  there 
a line  of  branching  coqueiros,  (cocoa-nut  trees.) 

A short  distance  below  the  real  entrance  to  the  har- 
bor is  what  is  called  Barra  Falsa,  or  the  feigned  en- 
trance. So  similar  is  the  appearance  of  the  coast  in 
this  place  to  that  adjoining  the  real  harbor,  that  when 
seen  from  a short  distance  at  sea,  even  those  accus- 
tomed to  the  port  are  often  deceived  by  the  resem- 
blance. Thus  was  our  captain  for  a short  time,  but 
not  long  enough  to  cause  any  material  deviation  from 
his  proper  course. 

The  anticipation  of  a speedy  arrival  now  pervaded 

Vol.  II. — 3 b 2 


18 


ENTRANCE  TO  BAHIA. 


the  breast  of  every  one  on  board  ; and  even  the  San 
Sebastian,  lightened  of  her  fuel,  seemed  to  partake  of 
the  common  enthusiasm,  as  she  pointed  her  bows  di- 
rectly towards  the  light-house  of  San  Salvador.  Slow- 
ly but  regularly  as  wre  approached,  the  promontory, 
on  which  the  looked-for  city  stands,  seemed  to  arise  out 
of  the  ocean.  Presently  the  eye  was  struck  with  an 
outline  of  domes  and  towers.  Soon,  the  Antonio  con- 
vent, the  Victoria  church,  the  walls  of  the  English 
cemetery,  and  various  other  objects  in  white,  were 
clearly  distinguished.  We  had  fairly  entered  the  har- 
bor, but  were  still  at  a distance  from  our  anchorage, 
when  night  lowered  upon  the  scene,  simultaneously 
w ith  a sudden  squall  of  wind  and  rain. 

It  wras  not  without  danger  that  our  boat  nowr  pushed 
her  way  into  a dense  crowd  of  shipping,  which  could 
scarcely  be  discerned  at  the  distance  of  a cable’s  length. 
Yet  so  she  did  in  safety,  and  soon  came  to  an  anchor 
near  the  Fortaleza  do  Mar,  an  old  circular  fortress, 
standing  upon  a steep  bank  of  rocks,  immediately  in 
front  of  the  town. 

As  the  squall  cleared  up  our  passengers  went  on 
shore,  but  I remained,  thinking  to  enjoy  a quiet  evening 
in  the  cabin.  Unfortunately,  for  this  expectation,  our 
captain  received  a visit  from  two  other  captains  of 
steam  packets,  then  in  the  harbor,  (also  Englishmen,) 
who,  having  just  risen  from  their  dinner  and  their  w ine, 
were  not  disposed  to  be  specially  guarded  in  their  lan- 
guage. 

How  heart-sickening  it  is  to  be  forced  to  listen  to 
profanity!  How  mournful  to  witness  the  voluntary  self- 
degradation of  the  swearer!  Next  morning  I w'ent  on 
shore,  immediately  after  breakfast.  Landing  near  the 


THE  LOWER  TOWN. 


19 


arsenal,  I passed  into  the  lower  town,  which  is  com- 
posed of  a single  narrow  street,  running  parallel  to  the 
water’s  edge. 

Along  this  Rua  da  Praya  are  located  all  the  more 
important  commercial  houses.  Here  is  the  Alfandega, 
through  which  all  foreign  goods  must  enter;  also,  the 
Consulado,  through  which  all  home  productions  must 
pass,  preliminary  to  exportation.  Some  of  the  trapi- 
ches  (warehouses)  near  by  are  of  immense  extent,  and 
said  to  be  among  the  largest  in  the  world. 

Around  the  landing-places  cluster  hundreds  of  ca- 
noes, launches,  and  various  other  small  craft,  dis- 
charging their  loads  of  fruit  and  produce.  On  one 
part  of  the  Praya  is  a wide  opening,  which  is  used  as 
a market-place.  Near  this  a modern  building  has 
been  constructed  for  an  exchange.  The  merchants, 
however,  make  but  little  use  of  it,  preferring  a very 
indifferent  room,  in  which  they  have  long  been  accus- 
tomed to  meet. 

This  lower  town  is  not  calculated  to  make  a favor- 
ble  impression  upon  the  stranger.  The  buildings  are 
old,  although  generally  of  a cheerful  exterior.  The 
street  is  very  narrow,  uneven,  and  wretchedly  paved. 
Besides,  the  gutter  passes  directly  through  the  middle, 
rendering  it  unavoidably  filthy.  At  the  same  time  it 
is  crowded  with  pedlers  and  carriers  of  every  descrip- 
tion. You  here  learn  one  peculiarity  of  the  city  of 
Bahia.  Owing  to  the  irregularities  of  its  surface,  and 
the  steepness  of  the  ascent  which  separates  the  upper 
town  from  the  lower,  it  does  not  admit  of  the  use  of 
wheel  carriages.  Not  even  a cart  or  truck  is  to  he 
seen,  for  the  purpose  of  removing  burdens  from  one 
place  to  another.  Whatever  requires  change  of  place 


20 


NEGRO  CARRIERS. 


in  all  the  commerce  and  ordinary  business  of  this  sea- 
port, and  it  is  second  in  size  and  importance  to  but 
one  other  in  South  America,  must  pass  on  the  heads 
and  shoulders  of  men.  Burdens  are  here  more  fre- 
quently carried  upon  the  shoulders,  since  the  principal 
exports  of  the  city  being  sugar  in  cases,  and  cotton  in 
bales,  it  is  impossible  that  they  should  be  borne  on  the 
head  like  bags  of  coffee. 

Immense  numbers  of  tall,  athletic  negroes,  are  seen 
moving  in  pairs  or  gangs  of  four,  six,  or  eight,  with 
their  loads  suspended  between  them  on  heavy  poles. 
Numbers  more  of  their  fellows  are  seen  setting  upon 
their  poles,  braiding  straw,  or  lying  about  the  alleys 
and  corners  of  the  streets,  asleep,  reminding  one  of 
black-snakes  coiled  up  in  the  sunshine.  The  sleepers 


NEGRO  CARRIERS. 


LACK  OF  CARRIAGES. 


21 


generally  have  some  sentinel  ready  to  call  them  when 
they  are  wanted  for  business,  and  at  the  given  signal 
they  rouse  up  like  the  elephant  to  his  burden.  Like 
the  coffee-carries  of  Rio,  they  often  sing  and  shout  as 
they  go,  hut  their  gait  is  necessarily  slow  and  measured, 
resembling  a dead  march  rather  than  the  double-quick 
step  of  their  Fluminensian  colleagues.  Another  class 
of  negroes  are  devoted  to  carrying  passengers  in  a 
species  of  sedan  chair,  called  cadeiras. 

It  is  indeed  a toilsome,  and  often  a dangerous  task, 
for  white  persons  to  ascend  on  foot  the  bluffs  on  which 
stands  the  cidade  alia,  particularly  when  the  powerful 
rays  of  the  sun  are  pouring,  without  mitigation,  upon 
their  heads.  No  omnibus  or  cab,  or  even  sege,*  can  be 
found  to  do  him  service.  Suited  to  this  state  of  things, 
he  finds  near  every  corner  ^or  place  of  public  resort,  a 
long  row  of  curtained  cadeiras,  the  bearers  of  which, 
with  hat  in  hand,  crowd  around  him  with  all  the  eager- 
ness, though  not  with  the  impudence,  of  carriage-drivers 
in  New  York,  saying,  “ Quer  cadeira,  Senhor?”  “Will 
you  have  a chair,  sir?”  When  he  has  made  his  selection 
and  seated  himself  to  his  liking,  the  bearers  elevate  their 
load  and  march  along,  apparently  as  much  pleased  with 
the  opportunity  of  carrying  a passenger,  as  he  is  with 
the  chance  of  being  carried.  To  keep  a cadeira  or 
two,  and  negroes  to  bear  them,  is  as  necessary  for  a 
family  in  Bahia,  as  the  keeping  of  carriages  and  horses 
elsewhere.  The  livery  of  the  carriers,  and  the  ex- 
pensiveness of  the  curtaining  and  ornaments  of  the 
cadeira,  indicate  the  rank  and  style  which  the  family 
maintains. 

* See  the  carriages  represented  in  the  engraving,  Palace  of  the 
Senate,  Vol.  I. 


22 


A CADEIRA. 


CADEIRA. 

Some  of  the  streets,  between  the  upper  and  lower 
towns,  wind  by  a zig-zag  course  along  ravines ; others 
slant  across  an  almost  perpendicular  bluff,  to  avoid,  as 
much  as  possible,  its  steepness.  Nor  is  the  surface 
level,  when  you  have  ascended  to  the  summit.  Not 
even  Rome  can  boast  of  so  many  hills  as  are  here 
clustered  together,  forming  the  site  of  Bahia.  Its  ex- 
tent between  its  extreme  limits,  Rio  A'ermelho  and 
Montserate,  is  about  six  miles.  The  city  is  nowhere 
wide,  and  for  the  most  part  is  composed  of  only  one  or 
two  principal  streets.  The  direction  of  these,  changes 
with  the  various  curves  and  angles  necessary  to  pre- 
serve the  summit  of  the  promontory.  Frequent  open- 
ings, between  the  houses  built  along  the  summit,  ex- 
hibit the  most  picturesque  views  of  the  bay  on  the  one 


THE  UPPER  TOWN. 


23 


hand  and  of  the  country  on  the  other.  The  aspect  of 
the  city  is  antique.  Great  sums  have  been  expended 
in  the  construction  of  its  pavements,  but  more  with  a 
view  to  preserve  the  streets  from  injury  by  rains,  than 
to  furnish  roads  for  any  kind  of  carriages.  Here  and 
there  may  be  seen  an  ancient  fountain  of  stone-work, 
placed  in  a valley  of  greater  or  less  depth,  to  serve  as 
a rendezvous  for  some  stream  that  trickles  down  the 
hill  above;  but  there  is  nowhere  any  important  aque- 
duct. 

I had  the  good  fortune,  immediately  after  going  on 
shore,  to  meet  with  several  gentlemen  to  whom  I bore 
letters.  Among  them  were  the  acting  English  and 
American  consuls,  and  Rev.  Mr.  Parker,  chaplain  to 
the  English  residents.  The  latter  was  seeking  exer- 
cise in  the  cultivation  of  his  garden,  in  which  he  mani- 
fested great  taste  and  industry. 

Persons  of  a common  language  and  of  kindred  pur- 
suits, who  meet  in  a foreign  country,  are  not  long  in 
forming  an  acquaintance.  Mr.  P.  very  soon  proposed 
a ride  on  horseback,  in  which  he  would  show  me  some 
of  the  environs  of  the  city.  This  ride  proved  extremely 
interesting.  One  of  the  first  objects  we  passed,  was 
the  ruined  wall  of  a public  cemetery  for  the  city.  This 
cemetery  had  been  laid  out  and  prepared  under  the  aus- 
pices of  a company,  organized  for  the  purpose.  To  this 
company  had  been  conceded  the  privilege  of  making 
the  interments  for  the  whole  city,  to  their  future  ex- 
clusion from  the  churches.  This  was  a measure  so 
imperatively  called  for  by  common  prudence,  with 
respect  to  health,  that  it  had  met  with  but  little  oppo- 
sition at  first,  and  in  fact  had  obtained  the  sanction  of 
the  archbishop.  But  no  sooner  was  the  new  cemetery 


24 


RIO  VERMELHO. 


opened  for  use,  than  the  popular  fury  broke  forth 
against  it.  The  people  assembled  in  a mob,  being 
doubtless  excited  by  their  parish  priests,  whose  perqui- 
sites were  about  to  be  curtailed.  When  the  soldiery 
were  called  out  to  quell  the  riot,  they  joined  the  mob, 
and  did  not  rest  until  the  whole  cemetery  was  defaced 
and  ruined. 

We  rode  towards  Rio  Vermelho.  The  hedges  of 
the  suburbs  of  Bahia  are  composed  of  lime  trees,  the 
leaves  of  which,  when  newly  trimmed,  emit  an  exqui- 
site fragrance.  Large  jaca  trees,  with  their  heavy  fruit 
clinging  to  the  limbs  and  trunk,  together  with  some 
other  trees  not  known  in  Rio,  are  abundant  here. 

Descending  towards  the  Red  river,  or  rivulet,  as  it 
rather  deserved  to  be  called,  the  hill  appeared  curi- 
ously diversified  by  deep  valleys,  running  parallel  to 
each  other.  The  route  was  beautifully  ornamented  by 
coqueiros,  and  other  indigenous  trees  and  shrubs.  On 
the  banks  of  the  Rio  Vermelho,  we  called  at  a small 
house  occupied  by  my  friend  and  his  family  in  the  hot 
season  of  the  year,  and  thence  returned  by  the  sea 
beach.  Close  under  the  brow  of  the  Antonio  hill,  we 
visited  the  principal  establishment  connected  with  the 
whale-fisheries  of  the  harbor.  A whale  had  been  taken 
the  day  previous,  and  was  undergoing  the  process  of 
dissection  on  the  beach.  Another  had  just  been  har- 
pooned within  sight,  and  three  boats,  a short  distance 
out,  were  towing  him  ashore.  The  proprietor  showed 
us  the  fixtures  made  use  of  for  extracting  oil.  Some 
specimens  of  the  oil  he  declared  to  be  equal  to  the 
American.  Although  his  opinion  might  have  been 
questioned  as  to  its  strict  accuracy,  yet  I had  no  dis- 
position to  debate  the  point  with  him.  In  fact,  I was 


WHALE  FISHERY. 


25 


busy  with  the  conclusion,  that  if  there  was  no  other 
commendation  to  the  American  oil,  than  the  mere  cir- 
cumstance of  its  being  prepared  on  the  high  seas, 
rather  than  in  the  neighborhood  of  a populous  city,  it 
should,  for  that  reason,  have  my  patronage. 

Notwithstanding  the  severe  trial  to  the  olfactories 
of  some  thousands  of  people,  which  is  sure  to  result 
from  the  capture  of  a whale,  yet  such  an  event  is  a 
general  occasion  of  triumph  at  Bahia.  Hundreds  of 
people,  the  colored  especially,  throng  around  to  wit- 
ness the  monster’s  dying  struggles,  and  to  procure 
portions  of  his  flesh,  which  they  cook  and  eat.  Vast 
quantities  of  this  flesh  are  cooked  in  the  streets,  and 
sold  by  Quitandeiras.  Numbers  of  swine  also  feast 
upon  the  carcass  of  the  whale  ; and  all  who  are  not 
specially  discriminating  in  their  selection  of  pork  in 
the  market,  during  the  season  of  these  fisheries,  are 
liable  to  get  a taste  of  the  whale,  nolens  volens.  This 
whale-fishery  was  once  the  greatest  in  the  world.  At 
the  close  of  the  seventeenth  century,  it  was  rented  by 
the  crown  for  thirty  thousand  dollars  annually.  The 
American  whalers  occasionally  take  whales  off  this 
coast,  but  in  general  they  find  other  cruising  grounds 
more  profitable. 

From  the  beach,  we  ascended  a winding  path  to  the 
Victoria  hill,  passing  by  the  English  cemetery,  which, 
although  small,  is  delightfully  located.  The  house  in 
which  Mr.  P.  resided  was  small,  but  tastefully  ar- 
ranged, with  an  ample  garden  in  front.  Adjoining  it, 
had  recently  been  constructed  an  addition,  which 
served  as  a chapel.  This  room  was  so  arranged  as  to 
seat,  comfortably,  eighty  or  a hundred  persons.  The 
usual  number  in  attendance  would  average  sixty,  about 

Vol.  II.— 4 C 


26 


PUBLIC  BUILDINGS. 


half  the  number  of  English  residents.  After  our  ex- 
cursion, Mr.  Parker  accompanied  me  to  dine  with  Mr. 
Whately,  acting  British  consul;  and  thus  my  first 
day’s  visit  to  Bahia  passed  away  in  the  most  agreeable 
manner. 

The  evening  and  night  I spent  with  Mr.  Foster, 
acting  American  consul,  at  whose  house  I was  kindly 
invited  to  make  my  home.  The  next  morning  that 
gentleman  conducted  me  through  the  principal  parts 
of  the  city,  which  I had  not  already  seen.  The  almost 
entire  absence  of  horses  and  mules  in  the  streets,  did 
not  soon  cease  to  appear  singular.  An  unusual  num- 
ber of  goats  and  pigs,  was  hardly  sufficient  to  supply 
the  lack  of  the  aforementioned  animals. 

We  entered  the  chapel  of  the  convents  of  San  Bento 
and  S.  Francisco.  The  former  is  barren  of  ornament; 
the  latter  extravagantly  profuse.  The  chapel  of  the 
Misericordia  was  dressed  out  with  hangings  and  orna- 
ments, in  anticipation  of  some  festa.  The  old  cathe- 
dral, an  immense  edifice,  which  had  been  constructed 
with  great  expense,  was  found  in  quite  an  indifferent 
state  of  repair.  In  a wing  of  this  building,  from  which 
may  be  enjoyed  a very  commanding  view  of  the  har- 
bor, is  located  the  public  library.  The  regulations  of 
this  institution  are  similar  to  those  of  the  national 
library  at  Rio.  It  contains  about  ten  thousand  volumes, 
a large  portion  of  which  are  in  French.  Some  valu- 
able manuscripts  are  also  in  preservation  here.  In  this 
immediate  neighborhood,  are  the  archiepiscopal  palace 
and  seminary,  and  the  old  Jesuit  college,  now  used  as 
a military  hospital.  The  latter  building,  together  with 
the  church  of  Nossa  Senhora  da  Concei^ao  on  the 
Praya,  may  almost  be  said  to  have  been  built  in  Eu- 


HISTORICAL  AUTHORITIES. 


27 


rope ; at  least  the  principal  stone-work  for  them  was 
cut,  fitted,  and  numbered,  on  the  other  side  of  the 
Atlantic,  and  imported  ready  for  immediate  erection. 
The  president’s  palace  is  also  but  a short  distance 
from  this  locality.  It  is  a substantial  building,  of 
ancient  date,  located  upon  one  side  of  an  open  square. 

Although  I intend  to  introduce,  in  this  connection, 
some  account  of  my  second  visit  and  longer  sojourn  in 
Bahia,  yet  I apprehend  the  reader  will  be  pleased  with 
a brief  sketch  of  the  history  of  the  city,  antecedent  to 
further  observations.  In  preparing  this  sketch  I shall, 
in  addition  to  facts  given  by  Mr.  Southey,  avail  myself 
of  the  labors  of  Senhor  Ignacio  Accioli  de  Cerqueira  e 
Silva,  whose  work,  entitled  Memorias  Historicas  e 
Politicas  da  Provincia  da  Bahia,  in  four  volumes,  lies 
before  me. 

This  writer  has  devoted  several  years  to  the  minute 
investigation  of  the  history  of  his  native  city  and  pro- 
vince, and  has  detailed  the  results  at  great  length, 
and  doubtless  with  accuracy. 


28 


ORIGIN  OF  THE  NAME  BRAZIL. 


CHAPTER  II. 

HISTORICAL  SKETCH  OF  BAHIA. 

Discovery  of  the  Bay. — Foundation  of  the  City. — Caramurti. — The  Ca- 
pital of  Portuguese  America. — Attacks  of  the  Dutch. — A Slide. — A 
Pestilence. — Selection  of  a Patron  Saint. — A Mutiny  quelled  by  the 
Wafer. — Gipsies. — The  Pillory. — Monasticism. — The  Slave  Trade. 

Baiiia  de  todas  os  Santos,  the  Bay  of  All  Saints, 
was  discovered  in  1503  by  Aniericus  Vespucins,  who 
was  then  voyaging  under  the  patronage  of  the  king  of 
Portugal,  Don  Manoel.  Vespucius  carried  home  from 
the  coast  of  Santa  Cruz,  as  the  newly-discovered 
country  was  first  called  by  the  Portuguese,  a cargo  of 
ibiripitavga,  a scarlet  dye-wood,  which,  when  cut  in 
pieces,  resembled  brazas,  coals  of  fire.  From  this  cir- 
cumstance it  by  degrees  acquired  the  name  of  Brazil 
wood.  This  valuable  commodity  was  destined  to  fur- 
nish a name  to  the  country,  substituting  its  original 
appellation  as  effectually  as  did  America  the  name  of 
Columbus. 

In  1510,  a vessel  under  the  command  of  Diogo 
Alvares  Correa,  was  wrecked  near  the  entrance  of 
this  bay.  The  Tupinambas,  a ferocious  tribe  of  Indians 
inhabiting  the  coast,  fell  upon  *and  destroyed  all  who 
survived  this  shipwreck,  save  the  captain  of  the  vessel. 
The  Indians  spared  Diogo,  as  some  supposed,  on  ac- 
count of  his  activity  in  assisting  them  to  save  articles 
from  the  wreck.  At  any  rate  he  had  the  good  fortune 
to  recover  a musket,  and  some  barrels  of  powder  and 
ball.  With  these  he  took  occasion  to  shoot  a bird  in 


CARAMURU. 


29 


their  presence.  Terrified  with  the  explosion  no  less 
than  with  its  effects,  the  Indians  called  him  from  that 
moment  Caramuru , “the  man  of  fire.” 

His  next  step  was  to  conciliate  their  favor  by  assur- 
ing them,  that  although  he  was  a terror  to  his  enemies, 
he  could  be  a valuable  auxiliary  to  his  friends.  He 
accordingly  accompanied  the  Tupinambas  on  an  expe- 
dition against  a neighboring  tribe  with  whom  they 
were  at  war.  The  first  discharge  of  Caramuru’s 
musket  gained  him  possession  of  the  field,  his  fright- 
ened adversaries  scampering  for  their  lives. 

Little  more  was  necessary  to  secure  him  a perfect 
supremacy  among  the  aboriginals.  As  a proof  of 
this,  he  was  soon  complimented  with  proposals  from 
various  chiefs,  who  offered  him  their  daughters  in  mar- 
riage. Diogo  made  choice  of  Paraguassu,  daughter  of 
the  head  chief  Itaparica,  whose  name  is  perpetuated 
as  the  designation  of  the  large  island  in  front  of  the 
city;  while  that  of  Paraguassu,  the  bride,  is  applied  to 
one  of  the  rivers  emptying  into  the  bay.  He  now 
began  a settlement,  which  he  denominated  S.  Salva- 
dor, in  gratitude  for  his  escape  from  the  shipwreck. 
This  settlement  was  located  in  a place  denominated 
Graca,  on  the  Victoria  hill,  a suburb  of  the  city  which 
will  be  hereafter  described,  and  which  is  still  occasion- 
ally called  Villa  Velha,  old  town. 

After  the  lapse  of  some  years,  a ship  from  Normandy 
anchored  in  front  of  Caramuru’s  town,  and  opened 
communications  with  the  shore.  Diojro  now  conceived 
the  idea  of  returning  to  Europe  ; and  after  having  sup- 
plied the  vessel  with  a cargo,  he  embarked  for  Dieppe, 
accompanied  by  Paraguassu.  He  intended  if  he  arrived 
safely,  to  go  from  Dieppe  to  Lisbon.  The  French,  how- 

c 2 


30 


RETURN  TO  HIS  COLONY. 


ever,  would  not  permit  this,  but  preferred  to  make  him 
a lion  in  their  own  capital.  Paraguassu  was  the  first 
Indian  female  that  had  ever  appeared  in  Paris.  A 
splendid  fete  was  given  at  her  baptism,  when  she  was 
christened  Catharine  Alvares,  after  Catherine  de  Me- 
dicis,  queen  of  France.  King  Henry  II.,  accompanying 
his  royal  spouse,  officiated  on  the  occasion  as  godfa- 
ther and  sponsor. 

The  French  government  contracted  with  Caramuru 
to  send  out  vessels  which  should  carry  him  to  his 
adopted  country,  and  return  with  Brazil  wood  and 
other  articles,  which  should  be  given  in  exchange  for 
goods  and  trinkets.  In  the  meantime  this  individual, 
true  to  his  original  intent,  contrived  to  inform  Don 
John  III.,  of  Portugal,  of  the  importance  of  colonizing 
Bahia.  A young  Portuguese,  who  had  just  finished  his 
studies  in  Paris,  and  was  returning  to  Portugal,  was 
the  bearer  of  this  message.  The  name  of  the  young 
man  in  question  was  Pedro  Fernandez  Sard  inha,  after- 
wards bishop  of  Bahia. 

The  natives  rejoiced  at  Caramurii’s  return,  and  his 
colony  now  increased  rapidly,  and  extended  its  influence 
in  every  direction.  In  1534,  the  chaplains  of  Martin 
Affonso  de  Souza,  who  touched  at  Bahia,  probably  on 
a return  voyage  from  S.  Vicente,  baptized  the  children 
of  Caramuru.  On  the  same  occasion  two  of  his  daugh- 
ters were  married,  one  to  Alfonso  Roderiguez,  and  the 
other  to  Paulo  Aderno,  a Genoese.  Of  the  former, 
there  still  may  be  seen  an  epitaph  in  the  Victoria 
church,  stating  the  circumstance  of  his  marriage,  and 
that  he  died  about  thirty  years  afterward. 

At  this  period  the  king  of  Portugal,  in  order  to  se- 
cure the  settlement  of  Brazil,  divided  the  country  into 


CAPITAL  OP  PORTUGUESE  AMERICA. 


31 


twelve  captaincies,  each  of  fifty  leagues  extent  on  the 
coast,  and  boundless  towards  the  interior.  Each  cap- 
taincy was  conceded  to  a donatary,  whose  power  and 
authority  were  absolute.  Francisco  Pereira  Coutinho, 
the  individual  who  came  to  take  possession  of  Bahia, 
was  a man  rash  and  arbitrary  in  the  extreme.  He 
soon  became  jealous  of  the  influence  of  Diogo  Alvares, 
and  commenced  to  persecute  and  oppress  him.  He 
finally  sent  him  on  board  a ship  as  a prisoner. 

This  course  exasperated  the  Indians,  who  deter- 
mined on  revenge.  They  attacked  the  settlement, 
burned  the  sugar-mills  of  Coutinho,  killed  his  son,  and 
drove  him  away.  In  attempting  to  return  his  vessel 
was  wrecked  on  the  island  Itaparica,  and  he  was  de- 
stroyed by  the  natives.  Diogo  Alvares  was  again 
restored  to  his  original  supremacy. 

The  growing  importance  of  the  country,  together 
with  rumors  of  violence  practised  by  the  donataries, 
induced  Don  John  III.  to  appoint  a governor-general 
of  Brazil,  to  reside  at  S.  Salvador,  and  to  have  juris- 
diction over  all  the  donataries. 

Thome  de  Souza,  first  governor-general,  landed  at 
Bahia  in  1549  with  six  vessels,  bringing  with  him 
three  hundred  men  in  the  king’s  pay,  four  hundred 
degredados , men  who  had  been  banished,  and  three 
hundred  colonists,  in  all  one  thousand  men,  besides 
some  Jesuit  missionaries,  engineers,  soldiers,  and  civil 
functionaries. 

Souza  landed  with  military  ceremonies  at  Yilha 
Yelha,  but  in  the  course  of  a month  proceeded  to 
choose  another  location  for  the  commencement  of  his 
operations.  It  was  that  of  the  present  cathedral,  go- 
vernment palace,  and  other  public  buildings.  Here 


32 


ATTACK  OP  THE  DUTCH. 


he  laid  the  foundation  of  these  several  edifices,  erect- 
ed taipa  walls  to  serve  for  present  purposes,  and  plant- 
ed batteries  on  all  sides. 

Caramuru  was  now  an  old  man,  but  wras  of  great 
service  to  the  governor-general  in  conciliating  the  na- 
tives, and  consummating  with  them  a treaty  of  peace. 
In  four  months  a hundred  houses  were  built,  and  vari- 
ous sugar  plantations  were  laid  out  in  the  vicinity. 

From  this  period  the  city  of  S.  Salvador  having  been 
constituted  the  capital  of  Portuguese  America,  and 
remaining  under  the  direct  patronage  of  the  mother 
country,  rapidly  increased  in  size  and  importance. 
The  governors  were  changed  very  often.  Some  of 
them  were  distinguished  for  their  successful  wars 
against  the  Indians,  and  others  for  their  zeal  in 
attempting  to  proselyte  them,  through  the  very  ineffi- 
cient means  then  made  use  of. 

The  year  1624  witnessed  the  first  depredations  of 
the  Dutch  upon  the  then  quiet  and  prosperous  city  of 
Bahia.  Without  the  least  notice  or  provocation  a 
fleet  from  Holland  entered  the  harbor,  attacked  the 
city,  burnt  the  shipping,  and  debarked  men  to  seize 
the  fortress  of  S.  Antonio,  who  marched  up  the  Vic- 
toria hill,  and,  after  some  fighting,  gained  possession 
of  the  town.  This  they  sacked,  without  even  sparing 
the  churches.  The  captors  immediately  erected  addi- 
tional fortifications,  made  prizes  of  all  the  Portuguese 
and  Spanish  ships  that  came  into  the  harbor,  not  know- 
ing that  the  town  had  changed  masters.  The  inhabi- 
tants, at  the  moment  of  attack,  had  fled  in  a cowardly 
manner,  but  they  soon  collected  their  strength  and  be- 
sieged the  Hollanders  closely.  The  chief  command 
of  the  Portuguese  devolved  upon  the  Bishop  Don  Mar- 


CONSTERNATION  AT  MADRID. 


33 


cos.  This  prelate,  it  appears,  had  formerly  given  ad- 
vice, by  virtue  of  which  troops  had  been  sent  away 
from  the  city.  He  was  now  anxious  to  retrieve  his 
reputation.  Wherefore  he  took  the  field  in  the  garb 
of  a penitent,  displayed  the  cross  upon  his  standard, 
and  caused  prayers  to  be  offered  publicly.  He  took 
up  his  head  quarters  at  Rio  Vermelho,  and  was  suc- 
cessful in  various  attacks  upon  the  outposts  of  the 
Dutch,  and  also  upon  their  foraging  parties.  By  vir- 
tue of  his  authority  as  commander  in  chief,  he  knight- 
ed several  individuals  who  had  distinguished  them- 
selves in  the  skirmishes.  Indeed  he  seems  to  have 
omitted  no  means,  spiritual  or  temporal,  for  promoting 
his  cause. 

Portugal  was  at  this  time  tributary  to  Spain.  The 
news  of  the  loss  of  Bahia  caused  great  consternation 
at  Madrid,  and  the  more  since  it  had  been  rumored 
that  the  English  were  to  unite  their  forces  with  the 
Dutch,  and  establish  the  elector  Palatine,  king  of 
Brazil.  The  Spanish  court  adopted  measures  worthy 
of  its  superstition  and  its  power.  Instructions  were 
dispatched  to  the  governors  of  Portugal,  requiring 
them  to  examine  into  the  crimes  which  had  provoked 
this  visitation  of  the  Divine  vengeance,  and  to  punish 
them  forthwith.  Novenas  were  appointed  throughout 
the  whole  kingdom ; and  a litany  and  prayers,  framed 
for  the  occasion,  were  to  be  said  after  the  mass.  On 
one  of  the  nine  days,  there  was  to  be  a solemn  proces- 
sion of  the  people  in  every  town  and  village,  and  of  the 
monks  in  every  cloister.  The  sacrament  was  exposed 
in  all  the  churches  of  Lisbon,  and  a hundred  thousand 
crowns  were  contributed  in  that  city  to  aid  the  govern- 
ment in  recovering  St.  Salvador. 

Vol.  If.— 5 


34 


THE  OCEAN  FLEET. 


The  great  ocean  fleet,  as  the  Spaniards  called  it, 
was  now  equipped.  One  so  powcrfid  had  never  before 
crossed  the  equator.  It  consisted  of  forty  sail,  and 
eight  thousand  soldiers,  under  D.  Fadrique  do  Toledo; 
D.  Manoel  dc  Menezes  being  in  command  of  the  Por- 
tuguese division.  Meantime  Francisco  Nunez  had 
been  sent  to  relieve  the  Bishop  D.  Marcos  of  his  mili- 
tary command,  in  order  that  the  prelate  might  devote 
himself  wholly  to  spiritual  concerns,  and  by  all  means 
prevent  the  enemy  from  disseminating  their  heretical 
opinions,  of  which  the  Portuguese  were  in  more  dread 
than  of  their  arms.  Orders  had  been  dispatched  from 
Madrid  to  be  specially  vigilant  against  this  danger. 
The  fatigues  of  war  had,  however,  been  too  great  for 
his  reverence.  He  died  soon  after  he  delivered  up  his 
command,  and  was  buried  in  a little  chapel  at  Itapa- 
gipe,  from  which  he  had  driven  the  Dutch. 

In  March,  1625,  the  united  fleets  of  Spain  and  Por- 
tugal appeared  off  the  bay.  The  sight  animated  and 
intoxicated  the  Brazilians.  They  fancied  that  it  would 
intimidate  the  Dutch  as  greatly  as  it  had  encouraged 
them,  and  thinking  to  have  the  whole  glory  of  recover- 
ing the  city  themselves,  they  precipitately  attacked  it, 
and  were  beaten  off  with  great  loss.  The  fleet  ad- 
vanced more  cautiously.  D.  Fadrique  knew  that 
powerfid  reinforcements  had  been  raised  in  Holland, 
and  wras  apprehensive  that  they  might  have  arrived 
before  him.  Having  ascertained  that  this  was  not  the 
case,  he  entered  the  bay  with  trumpets  sounding,  co- 
lors flying,  and  the  ships  ready  for  action.  The  Dutch 
vessels  also,  and  the  walls  and  forts,  were  dressed  out 
with  their  banners,  and  streamers  hoisted,  either  to 
welcome  friends  or  defy  enemies,  whichever  these  new’- 


THE  DUTCH  CAPITULATE. 


35 


comers  might  prove  to  be.  The  city  had  been  fortified 
with  great  care,  according  to  the  best  principles  of  en- 
gineering, a science  in  which  no  people  had  at  that 
time  such  experience  as  the  Dutch.  It  was  defended 
with  ninety-two  pieces  of  artillery,  and  from  the  new 
fort  upon  the  beach  they  fired  red-hot  shot.  There 
were  ten  ships  of  war,  and  eighteen  merchantmen,  in 
the  harbor.  D.  Fadrique,  who  saw  the  strength  of  the 
place,  and  knew  that  the  fleet  from  Holland  must  soon 
arrive,  called  a council  of  war,  and  proposed  to  land 
three  thousand  men,  and  leave  the  main  force  of  the 
expedition  on  board  to  intercept  the  enemy’s  succors. 
The  conclusion  was  that  half  the  army  should  be  land- 
ed, and  that  the  fleet  should  stretch  over  from  Itapa- 
gipe  to  St.  Antonio,  thus  at  once  blockading  the  ships 
in  port  and  cutting  off  all  supplies. 

After  some  skirmishing  the  Dutch  proposed  a capi- 
tulation, which  was  acceded  to.  The  terms  were,  that 
D.  Fadrique  should  give  them  shipping  and  stores  to 
carry  them  to  Holland,  safe  conduct,  and  sufficient 
arms  for  their  defence  upon  the  way. 

The  city  suffered  less  at  its  capture  than  at  its  reco- 
very. The  Dutch  came  to  win  the  country  and  to  keep 
it.  It  had,  therefore,  been  their  policy  to  preserve 
good  order,  and  to  conciliate  the  natives.  But  the 
Spaniards  and  the  Italians  of  D.  Fadrique’s  army  had 
been  trained  up  in  all  the  excesses  of  a military  life. 
The  Portuguese  were  not  slow  in  acquiring  the  vices 
of  their  companions,  and  soon  no  place,  private  or  pub- 
lic, was  safe  from  their  violence. 

The  Dutch  fleet,  of  thirty-four  sail,  which  had  been 
so  long  expected,  arrived  in  May,  but  put  back  to  sea 
at  the  sight  of  Spanish  colors.  Bahia,  however,  had 


36 


NAVAL  BRAVERY. 


not  yet  done  with  the  Dutch.  Two  years  after,  one 
of  their  fleets,  under  the  command  of  Heyne,  beat  into 
the  harbor  against  a head  wind.  The  governor,  Oli- 
veira, in  apprehension  of  an  attack,  had  drawn  up 
under  the  guns  of  the  fort,  the  ships  which  were  in  the 
harbor,  sixteen  in  number — and  placed  four  of  the 
largest,  manned  with  troops,  outermost,  as  batteries 
to  protect  the  rest.  He  then  planted  forty-two  large 
battering  pieces  on  shore,  intending  to  sink  the  vessels 
of  the  invader.  Heyne  desperately  ran  his  own  ship 
between  the  two  largest  of  the  enemy’s  floating  bat- 
teries, where  none  of  his  fleet  could  find  their  way  to 
him,  but  where  neither  the  Portuguese  from  the  forts, 
nor  from  the  shore,  could  fire  at  him  without  endan- 
gering the  lives  of  their  own  countrymen.  In  the 
course  of  half  an  hour  he  sent  one  of  their  batteries  to 
the  bottom;  the  others  immediately  struck,  and  the 
twelve  smaller  vessels  could  make  no  resistance.  The 
Dutch  went  off  in  boats,  cut  their  cables,  and  car- 
ried them  all  out  except  three  of  the  smallest,  which 
were  empty.  They  could  not,  however,  get  oft’  Heyne’s 
ship.  She  had  suffered  greatly  in  the  action,  and 
struck  when  the  tide  went  out,  so  that  she  was  order- 
ed to  be  set  on  fire.  Another  of  the  Dutch  vessels  was 
blown  up.  In  the  two  they  lost  above  three  hundred 
men.  The  next  day  the  admiral  inspected  his  prizes; 
the  four  largest  he  loaded  and  sent  home  to  Holland, 
four  others  were  added  to  his  own  fleet,  and  the  rest 
were  burned.  He  remained  in  the  bay  four-and-twenty 
days. 

In  1638,  Mauritz,  the  Count  of  Nassau,  then  in  full 
possession  of  Pernambuco,  and  a large  portion  of  the 
adjoining  coast,  attempted  to  capture  Bahia.  He 


NASSAU  STORMS  THE  CITY. 


37 


approached  with  forty  ships,  bearing  eight  thousand 
seven  hundred  men,  including  seamen  and  Indians. 
He  feigned  the  intent  of  landing  at  Itapoan,  a league 
from  the  entrance  of  the  bay,  but  finally  stood  in,  pass- 
ed up  by  the  city,  and  anchored  at  Itapagipe.  The 
mouth  of  the  harbor  is  so  wide  that  no  fort  could 
effectively  command  it,  neither  could  every  part  of  the 
coast  be  guarded,  and  this  was  a point  wholly  unoccu- 
pied. Here  Nassau  landed  his  men,  and  took  up  his 
march  towards  the  town.  The  garrison  consisted  of 
about  two  thousand  five  hundred  soldiers,  one  thou- 
sand of  whom  were  from  Pernambuco.  Unfortunately 
dissensions  prevailed  between  the  latter  and  the  Ba- 
hianos,  which  well  nigh  ruined  their  common  cause. 
The  Dutch  erected  batteries  from  which  to  storm  the 
city,  and  the  Portuguese  threw  up  redoubts,  and  even 
raised  cannon  to  the  tower  of  the  cathedral,  with  which 
to  annoy  the  enemy’s  batteries.  Operations  were  car- 
ried on  without  much  energy  for  a month.  Notwith- 
standing the  disadvantages  of  the  besieged,  Nassau 
met  with  a warmer  reception  than  he  had  anticipated. 
His  foraging  parties  had  been  cut  off,  and  his  supplies 
were  running  short.  In  this  juncture  he  resolved 
to  storm  the  city,  and  bring  the  siege  to  an  issue. 
At  seven  o’clock  in  the  evening  three  thousand  men 
began  the  assault.  They  won  the  fosse,  and  entrench- 
ed themselves  there.  Then  they  assaulted  the  gate. 
Here  the  fight  became  bloody.  The  place  was  so  nar- 
row that  no  weapon  was  discharged  in  vain ; the  fire 
balls  and  grenades  of  the  besiegers  took  full  effect ; 
and  the  beams  and  stones  which  the  Portuguese  threw 
down,  fell  upon  the  heads  of  their  assailants.  By  a 
strange  oversight  the  Dutch  neglected  to  give  the  alarm 

D 


38 


THE  DUTCH  REPULSED. 


at  other  quarters,  and  therefore  the  besieged  were  able 
to  bring  their  whole  strength  to  this  point.  Some 
attacked  them  in  the  fosse,  others  beat  them  from  the 
gate.  The  troops  from  all  the  out-works  came  to  the 
scene  of  action.  Nassau  brought  up  the  rest  of  his 
forces,  and  the  assault  became  a general  battle  on 
which  the  result  of  the  siege  was  staked.  The  Dutch 
gave  way,  for  they  fought  to  disadvantage.  Mauritz 
gave  orders  to  kill  all  who  fled,  and  they  returned  des- 
perately to  the  charge.  But  it  was  of  no  avail;  the 
Portuguese  knew  their  ground,  and  had  therefore  a 
confidence  in  the  darkness  which  their  assailants  could 
not  feel ; they  had  likewise  a motive  to  animate  them 
which  redoubled  their  exertions,  and  they  beat  the 
enemy  back. 

The  Dutch  revenged  themselves  with  disgraceful 
crudity  for  this  defeat.  They  explored  the  reconcave 
in  their  light  vessels,  and  whenever  they  could  surprise 
an  unprotected  house,  they  put  all  to  the  sword.  The 
besiegers  continued  to  fire  upon  the  city,  doing  but 
little  harm ; they  themselves  suffering  severely  at  the 
same  time  from  the  fire  of  the  besieged.  After  a week 
of  this  sullen  perseverance,  they  abandoned  their  posts 
and  departed,  leaving  behind  a part  of  their  stores. 
Their  loss  was  estimated  at  two  thousand  men. 

These  wars  assumed  vast  importance  in  view  of 
the  bearing  they  have  had  upon  the  destinies  of  the 
world.  Never  was  a contest  between  rival  powers 
carried  on  with  means  so  disproportioned  to  its  ob- 
jects. Nations  were  here  contending  for  an  empire 
not  less  in  extent  than  the  whole  of  civilized  Eu- 
rope, and  all  the  forces  employed  on  both  sides 
never  amounted  to  fifteen  thousand  men.  From  this 


LAND  SLIDE. 


39 


period  Bahia  enjoyed  quietness,  and  continued  to  im- 
prove for  a great  number  of  years  without  any  re- 
verses. Various  events,  however,  transpired,  which  it 
may  be  interesting  to  mention. 

In  1671,  as  a result  of  heavy  rains,  there  occurred 
a destructive  slide  from  the  summit  of  the  bluff,  which 
precipitated  a large  quantity  of  earth  upon  the  lower 
town,  destroying  houses,  burying  thirty  persons  alive, 
and  filling  up  half  of  the  Praya.  The  city  fathers,  in 
representing  this  disaster  to  the  king,  state  that  the 
Church  of  the  Conception  would  also  have  been  de- 
stroyed, but  for  a special  miracle  of  the  Holy  Sacra- 
ment and  the  Virgin.  The  burden  of  their  grief  was 
not  that  thirty  persons  lost  their  lives,  but  that  these 
persons  died  without  confession,  it  being  impossible  to 
succor  them,  as  the  accident  occurred  in  the  night. 
Similar  slides  have  frequently  occurred  in  the  history 
of  Bahia,  notwithstanding  the  expenditure  of  immense 
sums  in  endeavoring  to  prevent  them. 

In  1686  Bahia,  together  with  Pernambuco  and  the 
intervening  country,  was  visited  with  a destructive 
pest  denominated  the  bicha.  This  pest  was  generally 
believed  to  have  originated  with  a cargo  of  putrid 
meat,  which  arrived  at  Pernambuco  from  the  island  of 
St.  Thomas.  A person  opening  one  of  the  barrels  fell 
instantly  dead.  The  contagion  spread  itself  with  such 
fatal  rapidity  to  the  city  and  its  suburbs,  that  in  a few 
days  two  thousand  persons  perished.  This  terrible 
disorder  reached  Bahia  with  the  first  news  of  it,  and 
some  days  not  less  than  two  hundred  there  died.  Most 
of  the  victims  died  on  the  day  the  disease  attacked 
them,  and  few  survived  the  ninth  day.  The  symptoms 


40 


PATRON  SAINT. 


\ 

were  fever,  stagnation  of  the  blood,  delirium,  and  vo- 
mitings of  blood. 

This  is  the  only  instance  I have  seen  recorded  in  the 
history  of  the  country  of  any  similar  pest.  The  plague 
and  the  Asiatic  cholera  have  never  desolated  Brazil. 
Although  many  causes  exist  in  some  of  the  cities  fa- 
vorable to  pestilential  diseases,  yet  the  general  salu- 
brity of  the  air,  and  equability  of  the  temperature,  are 
in  the  highest  degree  conducive  to  health.  Accioli 
mentions  that  three  years  before  this  dreadful  visitation, 
a Jesuit  astrologist,  by  the  name  of  Estancel,  on  ac- 
count of  two  eclipses  which  occurred  near  each  other, 
had  prognosticated  that  great  calamities  were  about  to 
fall  upon  the  country.  The  appearance  of  this  pest 
established  with  many  his  credit  as  a soothsayer. 

When  suffering  under  this  affliction,  the  people,  by 
advice  of  their  captain-general,  resolved  to  assemble 
together  and  make  choice  of  a patron  saint  for  the  city, 
who,  on  the  present  and  other  similar  occasions,  might 
obtain  favors  and  mercies  for  them  at  the  hand  of  the 
Lord.  They  accordingly  met  and  spent  the  day  toge- 
ther at  the  Jesuits’  college.  Their  choice  fell  upon  St. 
Francis  Xavier;  whereupon  they  carried  out  his  image 
in  solemn  procession  through  the  town.  But  in  order 
that  his  intercessions  might  be  availing,  it  was  not  only 
necessary  for  them  to  promise  the  new  padroeiro  an 
annual  festa,  with  a procession;  but  also  to  secure  an 
approval  of  their  act  severally  from  the  king,  the  pope, 
and  the  archbishop.  Such  approvals,  however,  were  in 
course  of  time  obtained. 

I subjoin  that  from  the  king  of  Portugal,  as  a rare 
and  curious  document : 


THE  KING’S  APPROVAL. 


41 


“I,  the  King,  make  known,  that  having  respect  to 
what  has  been  represented  to  me  by  the  Camara  31  u- 
nicipal  of  the  city  of  Bahia,  that  during  the  pest  which 
has  recently  raged  in  that  city,  the  citizens  and  people 
have  selected  for  their  protector  and  patron  saint  St. 
Francis  Xavier,  the  glorious  apostle  of  the  east,  mak- 
ing a vow  and  a promise,  that  annually,  on  the  10th 
day  of  31ay  (the  day  on  which  the  choice  was  made) 
they  would  celebrate  a feast  in  his  honor  with  a pro- 
cession ; and  since  their  vows  and  promises  have  no 
validity  without  my  approbation,  they  have  besought 
me  to  pass  an  order  of  approval  to  their  act,  and  also 
to  provide  for  the  expense  of  said  festa.  Wherefore, 
having  considered  the  whole  subject,  I have  been 
pleased  to  approve  of  the  selection  of  that  glorious 
apostle  of  the  east,  St.  Francis  Xavier,  as  a patron 
saint  for  Bahia,  and  also  to  approve  of  the  vows  by 
which  the  inhabitants  have  promised  to  solemnize  the 
10th  of  May,  annually,  with  a procession  in  his  honor. 
Moreover,  I order  that  the  officers  of  said  Camara 
fulfil  their  promise,  and  that  the  provedor  of  the  Co- 
marca  pay  the  expenses  which  shall  annually  be  made 
in  the  said  procession ; and  that  my  governor,  captain- 
general,  and  other  officers,  comply  with  this  order,  and 
cause  it  to  be  complied  with  without  any  hesitation. 

“ The  King. 

“ Lisbon,  3 d March,  1687.” 

The  procession  thus  established,  was  annually  cele- 
brated up  to  1828. 

In  1690,  under  the  government  of  Luiz  Gonzalves 
da  Camara  Coutinho,  considerable  improvements  were 
made  in  the  agriculture  of  the  country.  Pepper  and 

Vol.  II. — 6 d 2 


42  MUTINY  QUELLED  BY  THE  WAFER. 

cinnamon  from  India  were  introduced  into  Brazil,  and 
distributed  to  various  provinces.  The  barbarity  and 
sanguinary  cruelty  with  which  many  slaves  in  the  pro- 
vince were  treated,  caused  the  king  of  Portugal  to 
issue  an  order  in  1700,  for  the  punishment  of  masters 
who  had  been  guilty  of  certain  excesses,  and  enjoining 
more  humane  conduct  in  future. 

In  1711  this  coast  was  infested  by  pirates,  whose 
object  was  to  intercept  the  gold  exported  from  the 
mines.  Government  found  it  necessary  to  keep  a 
man-of-war  on  the  coast  to  protect  its  shipping;  and 
for  the  support  of  the  cruizer,  levied  an  impost  of  ten 
per  cent,  on  goods  imported.  This  last  circumstance 
gave  rise  to  a mob,  which  the  governor  of  Bahia  was 
unable  to  quell.  In  this  juncture  the  archbishop 
brought  the  “arms  of  religion”  to  bear  in  support  of 
law  and  order.  Surrounded  by  his  canons  and  the 
brotherhood  of  the  sacrament,  and  hearing  a vial  con- 
taining the  consecrated  wafer,  he  presented  himself  to 
the  rioters  and  caused  them  immediately  to  disperse. 

A few  years  after,  at  an  execution,  some  part  of  the 
scaffold  gave  way,  and  one  of  the  criminals  fell  to  the 
earth  alive.  Hitherto  in  such  events,  the  Misericordia 
flag  thrown  over  the  criminal  had  saved  his  life.  On 
this  occasion  it  was  used  in  vain.  The  constable  in 
charge  of  the  execution  heeded  not  the  interposition, 
but  thrust  the  prisoner  through.  The  populace  sided 
with  the  brethren  of  the  Misericordia,  and  cn  masse 
demanded  the  punishment  of  the  constable;  but  the 
governor  refused,  notwithstanding  threats  of  violence. 
A carta  regia  confirmed  his  course,  and  ordered,  that 
in  case  of  similar  accidents  thereafter,  the  sentence 
should  still  be  executed. 


GIPSIES. 


43 


In  1718  several  gipsy  families  arrived  in  Bahia, 
concerning  whom  the  king  of  Portugal  transmitted  the 
following  order  to  the  viceroy : 

“I,  Don  John,  by  the  grace  of  God,  &c.,  make 
known  to  you,  that  I have  been  pleased  to  banish  to 
your  city  various  gipsies — men,  women,  and  children — 
on  account  of  their  bad  and  scandalous  conduct  in  this 
kingdom.  They  are  ordered  to  go  in  different  vessels 
bound  for  your  port;  and  since  I have  forbidden  them, 
by  a recent  law,  the  use  of  their  accustomed  lingo,  I 
also  order  you  to  enforce  that  law  under  the  threatened 
penalties,  and  not  to  allow  them  to  teach  said  tongue 
to  their  children,  so  that  its  use  and  practice  may  here- 
after become  extinct.” 

The  gipsies  were  found  to  be  as  unmanageable  in 
Brazil  as  they  had  been  in  Europe.  One  of  the  sub- 
urbs of  Bahia  was  allotted  to  their  use,  which  is  still 
denominated  Mouraria.  They  multiplied  so  fast,  and 
plied  their  arts  so  industriously,  that  about  thirty  years 
afterwards  a decree  was  passed  to  expel  them  from 
the  province.  One  of  the  charges  recorded  against 
them,  was  the  disorder  they  introduced  into  the  troops 
of  horses  and  mules  coming  from  the  mines,  stealing 
those  animals  by  night  in  spite  of  every  precaution  of 
the  mineiros. 

On  the  night  of  the  17th  March,  1721,  there  oc- 
curred such  a tremendous  storm  of  thunder  and  light- 
ning, as  had  never  before  been  witnessed.  For  a time 
it  seemed  to  threaten  the  destruction  of  the  city,  caus- 
ing some  houses  on  the  hill-sides  to  fall.  The  storm, 
however,  passed  by,  and  a thanksgiving  procession  was 


44 


MONASTICISM. 


instituted  in  memory  of  the  preservation  of  the  inha- 
bitants. The  procession  lias  been  continued  ever  since. 

In  1727,  the  pillory,  which  had  long  stood  in  front 
of  the  Jesuits’  College,  was  removed,  on  the  repre- 
sentation of  the  provincial  of  that  order,  that  the 
executions  which  took  place  there  had  a tendency  to 
interrupt  their  acts  of  worship.  It  was  again  erected, 
by  order  of  the  Municipal  Chamber,  in  the  neighbor- 
hood of  the  Benedictine  convent.  Perhaps  the  city 
fathers  thought  the  Benedictines  had  cooler  blood,  and 
would  not  be  so  easily  excited  by  the  operations  of  the 
whipping-post.  The  Viceroy  Conde  de  Galveas,  in 
1739,  made  representation  to  the  crown,  of  the  injury 
the  country  was  suffering  from  the  redundancy  of  mo- 
nasticism.  So  great  a number  of  females  had  become 
nuns,  and  so  many  men  devoted  themselves  to  the 
ecclesiastical  state,  that  during  the  four  years  of  his 
administration  there  had  only  been  two  marriages  of 
persons  of  quality ; and  even  among  the  lower  classes, 
marriages  were  few  in  proportion  to  the  population. 
And  many  of  those  that  occurred,  appeared  to  be 
prompted  less  by  the  fear  of  God,  than  by  a desire  to 
escape  the  liabilities  of  being  pressed  into  the  army. 

The  position  of  Bahia,  opposite  the  coast  of  Africa, 
caused  it  to  be,  from  early  times,  an  important  ren- 
dezvous for  those  engaged  in  the  African  slave-trade. 
The  offensive  ideas  now  associated  with  that  traffic, 
among  all  enlightened  nations,  are  strangely  in  con- 
trast with  the  semblance  of  philanthropy,  under  which 
it  was  originally  carried  on.  It  is  true,  that  interest 
was  the  first  thing  looked  at  then  as  well  now.  The 
country  was  in  need  of  cultivation,  and  the  planters 
were  in  need  of  laborers.  But  then  their  condition 


THE  SLAVE  TRADE. 


45 


was  in  no  way  so  pitiable  as  that  of  thousands  of  poor 
negroes  in  Africa,  who  had  been  captured  in  the  wars 
of  different  tribes  against  one  another,  and  who  might 
be  tortured  and  sacrificed  if  they  were  not  redeemed. 
What  a worthy  enterprise,  then,  to  send  vessels  to 
ransom  those  poor  pagan  captives,  and  bring  them 
where  they  could  be  Christianized  by  baptism,  and  at 
the  same  time  lend  a helping  hand  to  those  who  had 
been  so  kind  as  to  purchase  them  out  of  heathen 
bondage,  and  bring  them  to  a Christian  country  ! Ex- 
pressive of  such  ideas,  the  bland  title  by  which  the 
buying  and  selling  of  human  beings  was  known,  during 
the  seventeenth  and  eighteenth  centuries,  was  the 
commerce  for  the  ransom  of  slaves. 

A dispatch  from  D.  Joseph,  king  of  Portugal,  to  the 
viceroy  of  Brazil,  in  the  year  1756,  lies  before  me, 
from  which  it  appears,  that  he  had  received  represen- 
tations from  the  Camara  of  Bahia,  together  with  vari- 
ous cultivators  of  sugar  and  tobacco  in  the  province, 
informing  him  of  a monopoly  that  had  sprung  up  in 
the  business  of  ransoming  slaves  ; whereupon  the  au- 
gust monarch,  with  that  royal  and  paternal  solicitude 
which  had  inclined  him,  repeatedly,  to  regulate  this 
most  important  branch  of  the  commerce  of  his  vassals, 
decreed,  by  and  with  the  advice  of  the  ultra-marine 
counsel, 

1.  “That  this  commerce  should  thenceforward  be 
free  to  every  one,  not  only  in  the  ports  before  resorted 
to,  but  in  all  the  ports  of  Africa,  both  within  and  be- 
yond the  Cape  of  Good  Hope. 

2.  “But  that,  in  order  to  avoid  the  evil  of  having 
too  large  vessels  employed,  and  a bad  selection  of 
provisions,  the  boards  of  inspection  in  Bahia,  Pernam- 


46 


REGULATIONS  AND  RESTRICTIONS. 


buco,  and  Parahiba,  should  examine,  with  all  care,  the 
cargo  and  provisions  of  each  ship  fitted  out,  seeing 
that  these  were  suitable,  and  that  the  vessels  were 
light,  not  carrying  at  most  more  than  three  thousand 
rolls  of  tobacco,  in  order  that  they  might  enter  any 
port,  and  accomplish  a good  ransom  at  moderate 
prices. 

3.  “That  the  commander  of  the  fort  of  Ajuda,  on 
the  coast,  should  prevent  as  much  as  possible  the 
congregation  of  a number  of  vessels  in  any  one  port, 
and  allow  but  one  vessel  to  buy  slaves  at  a time.” 

These  regulations,  ostensibly  planned  to  mitigate 
the  cruelty  and  evils  of  the  traffic,  had  the  effect  to  in- 
crease both  an  hundred  fold.  From  that  day  to  this, 
Bahia  has  been  a great  mart  for  the  slave-trade. 


ARRIVAL  OF  DON  JOHN  VI. 


47 


CHAPTER  III. 

Transfer  of  the  Capital. — Arrival  of  Don  John  VI. — Carta  Regia. — 
First  Printing  Press. — Public  Library. — Steam  Sugar-Mill. — Execu- 
tion of  a Priest. — Civil  War  of  1822. — War  of  Independence. — Expul- 
sion of  the  Portuguese. — Rebellion  of  1837. — Second  entrance  to 
Bahia-. — Festivities  of  the  Emperor’s  Birth-day. — Te  Deum. — Illu- 
mination.— Excursion  up  the  Bay. — Beauties  of  Bahia. — Henry 
Martyn. — Fire-works. 

In  1763,  the  seat  of  the  vice-royalty  was  transferred 
from  Bahia  to  Rio  de  Janeiro. 

Up  to  this  time,  not  less  than  forty-four  governors- 
general  and  viceroys  had  held  the  reins  of  power  at 
Bahia.  They  were  men  of  widely  different  characters, 
and  of  various  capacities  for  government.  But  the 
system  they  pursued  was  one, — the  absolute, — in  all 
its  rigor.  Although  some  of  these  officiaries  were  men 
of  science,  and  seemed  anxious  to  develop  the  re- 
sources of  the  country,  yet  that  was  an  object  impossi- 
ble of  accomplishment,  under  the  narrow  and  exclusive 
policy  of  Portugal.  Nor  was  it  till  the  arrival  of  the 
royal  family,  in  1808,  that  any  thing  like  a liberal 
or  enlightened  policy  was  pursued  towards  this  or  any 
other  portion  of  the  great  colony  of  Brazil. 

Great  were  the  rejoicings,  and  splendid  were  the 
festivities,  given  upon  that  occasion.  The  citizens  of 
Bahia  besought  Don  John  \ I.  to  remain,  and  establish 
his  court  among  them.  They  offered  to  construct  and 
present  to  him  a majestic  palace.  But  the  wide  mouth 
of  the  bay,  and  the  difficulty  of  effectually  fortifying 
the  harbor,  was  a weighty  objection  to  the  city  as  a 


48 


CARTA  REGIA. 


residence  for  royalty.  The  prince  regent,  therefore, 
resolved  to  pass  on  to  Rio  de  Janeiro.  But,  before 
the  fleet  weighed  anchor,  he  communicated  to  the 
Count  de  Ponte,  the  governor  of  Bahia,  that  celebrated 
document,  the  CARTA  REGIA,  by  which  the  ports  of 
Brazil  were  opened. 

Having  already  intimated  my  views  respecting  this 
measure  in  a former  chapter,  I will  here  subjoin  the 
remarks  of  a Brazilian  author,  the  senator,  the  vis- 
count of  Cayru,  an  individual,  whose  celebrity  as  a 
writer  gained  him  the  honor  of  being  officially  appoint- 
ed to  compose,  under  the  patronage  of  government,  a 
history  of  Brazil.  He  did  not  live  to  accomplish  this 
task,  although  he  left  behind  him  several  works  to 
justify  his  fame.  In  his  Memorias  dos  beneficios  politicos 
do  governo  do  Rei  D.  Jodo , VI.,  having  said  that  the 
royal  edict  in  question  was  much  superior,  both  in 
motive  and  effect,  to  the  magna  cliarta  of  England,  he 
proceeds : — 

“By  that  immortal  diploma,  he  conferred  an  inesti- 
mable inheritance  upon  this  terrestrial  paradise,  where 
flourish  the  crowned  heads  of  the  vegetable  world  ; 
trees  that  blossom  from  the  trunk  to  the  vertex  ; health- 
giving plants,  that  banish  death  to  a remote  old  age ; 
and,  besides,  a thousand  other  equivalents  for  the 
riches  of  the  globe;  those  princely  fruits,  which  the 
poets  and  enthusiasts  of  natural  history  have  named 
ambrozia — food  for  the  gods.  Opening  the  ports, 
without  reserve,  to  foreign  commerce,  he  established  a 
direct  correspondence  between  this  and  foreign  nations, 
by  which  the  people  of  Brazil  will  be  enabled  to  enjoy, 
through  the  wealth  that  nature  has  given  them,  what 
art  has  secured  to  other  states,  besides  an  exuberant 


A PRIEST  EXECUTED.  49 

supply  of  population,  and  a perpetual  stimulus  to  in- 
dustry.” 

As  a worthy  sequence  to  this  event,  a printing-press 
was  established  in  Bahia,  in  1811.  A gazette,  entitled 
the  Golden  Age,  was  soon  after  commenced;  but  to 
guard  this  press  against  taking  too  great  liberties,  a 
board  of  censors  was  appointed  by  the  archbishop. 
At  the  same  period  the  public  library  was  founded, 
through  the  liberality  of  individuals. 

In  the  year  1815,  the  first  steam  sugar-mill  was 
introduced,  from  England,  by  one  Colonel  Cardozo, 
who,  as  a reward  for  his  enterprise,  was  decorated 
with  the  insignia  of  the  order  of  Christ. 

In  1817,  while  a revolution  was  in  progress  in  Per- 
nambuco, the  governor  of  Bahia,  the  count  dos  Arcos, 
received  intimations  that  plans  were  on  foot  to  excite 
similar  outbreaks  in  the  other  provinces. 

About  the  same  time  a priest,  by  the  name  of  Roma, 
landed  near  the  harbor  of  Bahia,  having  made  the 
voyage  from  Pernambuco  on  a jangada.  He  was  ar- 
rested in  the  act  of  stepping  on  shore,  taken  before  a 
military  commission,  and  more  on  the  ground  of  sus- 
picion than  of  proof,  that  he  came  to  disseminate 
revolutionary  sentiments,  he  was  condemned  to  death, 
and  forthwith  shot  in  the  campo  da  Polvora. 

The  revolution  of  Portugal,  in  1820,  in  favor  of  a 
constitution,  found  an  immediate  response  in  Bahia. 
After  this,  the  former  governor  refused  to  continue  in 
office,  whereupon  a provisional  junta  was  appointed, 
which  entered  upon  the  responsibilities  of  government, 
“ protesting  before  the  Almighty  and  all  the  saints  of  the 
celestial  court,  their  adhesion  to  the  provisional  junta 
of  Portugal,  and  to  the  new  order  of  things  established.” 

Vol.  II.— 7 E 


50 


CIVIL  WAR. 


At  this  period,  rivalries  between  the  Portuguese 
and  native  Brazilians  began  to  be  seriously  fomented. 
Disorders  and  violence  soon  broke  out.  The  Portu- 
guese soldiery  committed  various  outrages.  They 
broke  open  private  bouses,  and  even  violated  a con- 
vent, assassinating  the  abbess,  maltreating  the  chap- 
lain, and  causing  the  nuns  to  fly  to  another  convent  for 
refuge. 

Bahia  was  now,  for  the  first  time,  plunged  into  the 
horrors  of  a civil  war.  Scenes  of  discord  and  fraternal 
bloodshed  then  began  to  be  enacted,  with  which,  by 
repeated  experience,  she  has  since  become  but  too  fa- 
miliar. Thousands  of  citizens  deserted  their  bouses, 
and  fled  whithersoever  they  could,  so  that  the  city  was 
nearly  deserted,  save  by  contending  soldiers.  The 
Portuguese,  under  General  Madeira,  gained  possession 
of  the  city ; not  less  than  two  thousand  persons  on  both 
sides  having  fallen  in  mutual  massacre.  Don  John  VI. 
had  now  returned  to  Portugal ; and  Don  Pedro,  the 
prince  regent,  on  learning  the  disastrous  state  of  Ba- 
hia, immediately  ordered  General  Madeira  to  embark 
with  his  troops  for  the  mother  country.  This  order 
was  dated  June,  1822,  only  three  months  before  the 
declaration  of  Brazilian  independence.  Madeira  re- 
fused to  obey,  although  some  of  his  troops  were  sent 
on  hoard  ship,  as  if  for  that  purpose. 

In  a short  time,  an  additional  supply  of  troops  ar- 
rived from  Lisbon,  to  support  him  in  the  position  he 
had  taken.  The  anti-Brazilian  faction  now  become 
more  insolent  than  ever.  Various  methods  were  de- 
vised for  insulting  and  aggravating  the  native  Bra- 
zilians. This  conduct  went  so  far  as  even  to  cause  a 
procession  in  honor  of  S.  Joseph  to  be  interrupted. 


WAR  OF  INDEPENDENCE. 


51 


The  images  were  broken  by  showers  of  stones,  and 
the  devotees  scattered  through  fear  of  danger.  Even 
the  friars  of  the  convent  of  Santa  Thereza  joined  the 
Portuguese  ranks,  laying  aside  their  religious  character, 
and  performing  deeds  altogether  disgraceful.  At  the 
same  time,  in  Cachoeiras  and  most  other  towns  of  the 
reconcave,  as  well  as  throughout  the  province  gene- 
rally, the  people  had  declared  in  favor  of  Don  Pedro 
and  the  Brazilian  cause. 

The  provisional  junta  already  mentioned  being 
found  to  have  no  efficiency,  the  inhabitants  of  Cacho- 
eiras and  the  neighboring  country  proceeded  to  or- 
ganize temporary  governments,  which  should  adhere  to 
the  regency  of  Don  Pedro.  At  this  juncture,  General 
Labatut  arrived  from  Rio,  with  orders  to  organize  an 
army  to  expel  the  Portuguese,  in  case  they  did  not 
voluntarily  withdraw.  He  first  visited  the  provinces 
of  Alagoas  and  Sergipe,  parts  of  which  were,  up  to  this 
time,  under  Portuguese  authority.  He  there  met  with 
but  little  opposition,  and  soon  left  that  entire  region  in 
a state  of  loyalty  to  the  prince  regent.  In  attempting 
to  organize  an  effective  army  in  the  reconcave  of 
Bahia,  he  met  with  difficulty,  owing  to  the  lack  of  men 
and  means.  He  however  employed  all  the  resources 
within  his  reach,  and  made  considerable  progress.  By 
the  month  of  October  the  war  of  independence  was 
fairly  opened,  and  Bahia  was  destined  to  be  the  theatre 
of  the  principal  struggle.  Portuguese  emigrants  from 
all  parts  of  the  country  fled  there,  to  seek  refuge  and 
to  enlist  as  soldiers.  Naval  and  military  reinforcements 
also  arrived  from  Lisbon.  But  this  augmentation  of 
strength  brought  with  it  serious  difficulties.  Provisions 
were  growing  scarce,  and  the  supplies  they  had  hitherto 


52 


EXPULSION  OF  THE  PORTUGUESE. 


received  from  the  neighboring  provinces  were  now 
effectually  cut  off. 

On  the  8th  of  November  the  Portuguese  made  an 
attack  upon  one  of  the  points  occupied  by  the  Brazil- 
ians, but  were  beaten  back  with  a signal  defeat.  This 
circumstance  powerfully  encouraged  the  patriots. 

In  another  engagement,  about  the  close  of  Decem- 
ber, a Brazilian  lieutenant  was  killed,  who  had  per- 
suaded himself  that  nothing  could  injure  him,  on 
account  of  a written  prayer  which  lie  wore  upon  his 
breast.  Contrary  to  orders,  he  continued  to  expose 
himself  to  the  enemy’s  fire,  and  was  shot. 

Various  skirmishes  took  place,  but  nothing  decisive 
occurred  up  to  May,  1823,  when,  through  dissensions 
that  unhappily  prevailed  in  the  Brazilian  ranks, 
Labatut  was  deposed  from  his  command,  a native 
Brazilian  being  appointed  in  his  place.  About  the 
same  time  Lord  Cochrane,  who  had  been  engaged 
by  the  government  of  Don  Pedro  to  come  from  the 
coast  of  Chili  and  take  command  of  the  Brazilian 
navy,  arrived  off  Bahia  with  a small  squadron.  Lord 
Cochrane  detached  two  of  his  fastest  sailing  vessels  to 
blockade  the  Portuguese  in  the  harbor;  this  they  very 
effectually  accomplished,  capturing  various  small  craft 
sent  out  to  procure  supplies. 

Thus,  besieged  by  land  and  blockaded  by  sea,  the 
Portuguese  in  Bahia  were  reduced  to  a state  of  star- 
vation. Slaves  were  actually  dying  in  the  streets  from 
hunger. 

General  Madeira  was  now  obliged  to  evacuate  the 
qity.  On  the  night  of  the  first  of  July  his  men  em- 
barked, taking  with  them  the  church  plate,  and  most 
of  the  moveable  wealth  of  the  town.  Many  of  the  mer- 


REVOLUTION  OF  1837. 


53 


chants  also  embarked,  taking  with  them  all  their  pro- 
perty. At  daylight,  the  next  morning,  the  Brazilian 
army  took  up  the  line  of  march  and  entered  the  city, 
while  the  enemy’s  fleet  was  engaged  in  weighing  an- 
chor and  moving  out  of  the  harbor.  The  inhabitants 
that  remained,  among  whom  are  mentioned  the  nuns 
of  the  convent  of  Solidade,  employed  themselves  in 
erecting  triumphal  arches,  and  preparing  wreaths  and 
chaplets  to  place  upon  the  heads  of  their  victorious 
countrymen. 

Those  vessels  of  the  Brazilian  squadron  which  were 
qualified  for  the  service,  pursued  the  Portuguese  fleet, 
and  succeeded  in  making  a series  of  captures.  The 
second  of  July  was  subsequently  made  a half  holiday 
for  Bahia,  in  commemoration  of  this  restoration. 

Added  now  to  the  empire,  and  tranquilized  by  the 
presence  of  Brazilian  authorities,  Bahia  recovered  by 
decrees  from  the  losses  she  had  suffered  during:  the 
hostile  occupation  of  the  Portuguese,  and  commenced 
again  to  grow  with  the  growth  of  the  country. 

Without  pausing  to  enumerate  the  slight  disorders 
that,  at  different  times,  have  interrupted  the  quietness 
and  prosperity  of  Bahia,  I will  briefly  notice  the  rebel- 
lion of  1837.  A revolution  had  been  plotted  in  secret 
by  some  ambitious  persons,  who  contrived,  by  a simul- 
taneous movement,  on  the  7th  day  of  November,  to 
get  possession  of  the  forts  commanding  the  town.  In 
a short  time  the  city  was  in  their  power.  The  president 
and  authorities,  together  with  vast  numbers  of  the  citi- 
zens, were  obliged  to  flee.  The  legal  government  of 
the  province  was  transferred  to  the  island  of  Itaparica. 

The  insurgents  were  from  among  the  lower  classes 
of  the  people,  and  were  instigated  and  led  on  by  a few 

e 2 


54 


SECOND  VISIT  TO  BAHIA. 


reckless  individuals.  None  of  these,  however,  had  the 
talent  to  administer  the  usurped  government  they  at- 
tempted to  establish.  They  had  none  to  sympathize 
with  them  in  any  quarter;  and,  as  might  have  been 
expected,  their  career,  though  violent  and  sanguinary, 
was  brief. 

The  imperial  government  at  Rio  sent  naval  and 
military  forces  to  the  aid  of  the  president,  and  a bat- 
talion of  soldiers  soon  arrived  from  Pernambuco.  In 
the  course  of  a few  months  the  army  of  the  legalists 
triumphed,  being  led  into  the  city  by  the  brave  Colonel 
Coelho.  The  leaders  of  the  insurrection  were  thrown 
into  prison,  and  more  than  two  hundred  accomplices 
were  sent  as  prisoners  to  the  island  of  Fernando  de 
Noronha.  This  revolution,  although  it  neither  endured 
long,  nor  spread  widely,  yet  was  a serious  blow  to  the 
prosperity  of  the  city  and  province  of  Bahia.  Business 
was  interrupted,  public  confidence  was  destroyed,  ani- 
mosities were  provoked,  and  the  seeds  of  future  dis- 
cord were  sown.  These  have  subsequently  sprung  up, 
and  produced  the  fruits  of  anarchy  in  frequent  and 
remorseless  assassinations,  intrigues,  and  tumults  at 
elections,  and  quite  recently  in  farther  outbreaks. 

After  having  accomplished  my  tour  along  the  north- 
ern coast,  I again  entered  the  harbor  of  Bahia,  on 
board  a Brazilian  steam  packet  from  the  north.  It 
was  late  in  the  evening,  on  the  last  day  of  November; 
and,  as  the  Pcrriambucana  rounded  the  cape  of  San 
Antonio,  and  passed  up  to  her  anchorage  in  front  of 
the  city,  volleys  of  rockets  shot  up  in  irregular  succes- 
sion from  the  heights  above  us,  careering  with  fiery 
and  serpentine  track  through  the  dark  expanse  of  a 
clouded  sky.  Their  innocent  crackling  resounded  like 


ANNUAL  FESTIVITIES. 


55 


distant  musketry,  mingling  with  the  peal  of  many  a 
deep-toned  bell,  which,  from  church,  cathedral  and 
convent,  announced  approaching  festivities. 

The  Bahians  were  preparing  to  celebrate  the  birth- 
day of  their  youthful  Emperor,  the  2d  of  December. 
This  anniversary  is,  throughout  the  nation,  a favorite 
one  among  the  several  dias  de  grande  gala , or  politi- 
cal holidays.  Of  these  the  Brazilians  celebrate  six. 
The  1st  of  January  heads  the  list  with  New  Year’s 
compliments  to  his  Majesty.  The  25th  of  March  com- 
memorates the  adoption  of  the  constitution.  The  7th 
of  April  is  the  anniversary  of  the  Emperor’s  accession 
to  the  throne.  The  3d  of  May  is  the  day  for  opening 
the  sessions  of  the  national  Assembly.  The  7th  of 
September  is  the  anniversary  of  the  declaration  of  the 
national  independence  ; while  the  last  in  the  catalogue 
is  the  2d  of  December,  the  Emperor’s  birth-day.  On 
all  these  days,  except  the  3d  of  May,  his  Majesty  holds 
court  in  the  palace  at  Rio.  Presidents  of  provinces, 
as  the  special  representatives  of  the  crown,  follow  the 
example  of  their  sovereign,  by  holding  levee  in  the 
several  provincial  capitals ; but  they  do  not  presume 
to  receive  imperial  honors  in  their  own  person.  The 
place  of  honor  in  their  sola  de  cortejo,  is  always  allot- 
ted to  the  portrait  of  his  Majesty.  Near  by,  as  the 
special  representative  of  the  throne,  the  president  takes 
his  place,  accompanied  perchance  by  the  bishop.  Be- 
fore these,  in  measured  step,  pass  the  dignitaries  in- 
vited, in  the  order  of  their  rank  and  distinction,  pay- 
ing their  obeisance  severally  to  the  imperial  portrait. 
After  this  ceremony,  mutual  compliments  are  ex- 
changed by  the  individuals  present,  and  the  company 
breaks  up. 


56 


A DECEMREU  MORNING. 


It  was  no  ordinary  celebration  that  was  to  take 
place  at  this  time.  During  the  recent  session  of  the 
national  Assembly  at  Rio  de  Janeiro,  it  had  been  more 
than  intimated  that  the  Bahians  generally  were  doubt- 
ful in  their  loyalty.  Not  relishing  such  insinuations, 
they  had  resolved  to  make  a display  on  this  occasion, 
which,  from  its  unexampled  magnificence,  should  not 
only  demonstrate  their  fidelity  to  the  throne,  but  should 
throw  even  the  metropolis  into  the  shade.  In  addition 
to  the  usual  cortejo,  there  were  to  be  ceremonies  for 
three  successive  days,  and  illuminations  for  as  many 
nights.  On  the  first  day  there  was  to  be  a grand  Tc 
Deum,  with  a sermon ; on  the  second,  a military  ball 
at  the  palace;  and  on  the  third,  an  unrivaled  exhibi- 
tion of  fire-works,  on  Victoria  hill,  at  the  Campo  de  S. 
Pedro. 

The  2d  of  December  came.  It  was  not  clad  in  the 
frosty  robes  of  a northern  winter,  with  whistling  winds 
and  drifted  snow  at  its  heels.  Nay,  the  north  is  not 
farther  from  the  south,  than  is  the  idea  many  a reader 
has  pictured  in  his  imagination,  at  the  bare  mention 
of  December,  from  the  reality  of  the  day  in  question. 
Preceded  by  but  a brief  interval  of  twilight,  the  sun 
threw  upward  his  mellowest  rays,  burnishing  the 
wreathed  clouds  of  the  eastern  horizon.  Presently 
from  his  bed  of  ocean  he  rose  majestic  on  his  vertical 
pathway,  looking  down  on  one  of  the  fairest  scenes 
nature  ever  presented  to  the  eye  of  man.  The  bound- 
less expanse  of  the  Atlantic  on  the  east ; the  broad 
and  beautiful  bay  on  the  south  and  west,  with  its  palm- 
crested  islands  and  circling  mountains,  were  but  an 
appropriate  foreground  to  the  lovely  picture  of  the 
city  herself,  reposing  like  a queen  of  beauty  amid  the 


THE  EMPEROR’S  BIRTH-DAY. 


57 


embowering  groves  of  the  proud  eminences  over  which 
her  huts,  her  temples,  and  her  lordly  domes  were 
scattered. 

The  day  was  ushered  in  by  the  roar  of  cannon  from 
the  several  batteries  and  vesspls  of  war.  From  that 
moment  might  be  seen  the  shipping  of  every  nation 
in  the  harbor,  gaily  decked  with  flags,  signals,  and 
streamers  of  unnumbered  hues.  No  girlish  fancy  ever 
prided  itself  more  on  the  gaudy  ornaments  of  a doll 
than  does  the  seamen’s,  on  an  occasion  like  this,  in 
“ rigging  out”  from  every  mast,  yard,  brace,  stay  and 
bowline  of  his  vessel,  some  appropriate  bunting  to  float 
in  the  playful  breeze. 

Being  much  occupied  in  the  morning,  I did  not  reach 
the  cathedral  in  time  to  listen  to  the  discourse  which 
preceded  the  Te  Deum.  It  was  said  to  have  been  de- 
livered with  vehement  gesticulations,  and  to  have  con- 
tained allusions  to  almost  every  other  nation  except 
the  heretical  and  republican  United  States.  It  em- 
braced, moreover,  a complimentary  section  for  the 
special  gratification  of  the  president,  and  another  for 
the  archbishop.  During  the  recitation  of  the  latter, 
according  to  the  observation  of  those  who  were  near 
at  hand,  the  learned  metropolitan  appeared  to  be  en- 
joying a profound  sleep ! Lest  any  one  should  sup- 
pose this  circumstance  argued  on  his  part  a lack  of 
interest  in  what  was  going  on,  it  ought  to  be  mention- 
ed, that,  while  the  day  was  very  warm,  and  the  cathe- 
dral densely  crowded,  much  more  care  had  been  taken 
to  adorn  that  immense  edifice  with  splendid  hangings, 
than  to  secure  for  it  a good  ventilation.  Under  such 
circumstances,  an  attack  of  drowsiness  would  be  almost 
irresistible  ! However,  his  reverence  was  on  hand  to 

Vol.  II.— 8 


58 


PASSEIO  PUBLICO. 


perform  with  due  ceremony  the  priestly  office  in  the 
Tc  Deum  Laudamus,  which  act  terminated  at  3 o’clock 
P.  M.  At  this  moment  there  was  a discharge  of  rockets 
in  front  of  the  cathedral,  and  a general  salute  of  artil- 
lery from  the  guns  of  the  forts  and  shipping.  The 
scene  was  now  transferred  to  the  government  palace, 
the  old  residence  of  the  viceroys,  where  the  cortejo 
took  place.  At  the  same  time  the  troops  of  the  city, 
to  the  number  of  two  thousand  five  hundred,  were  pa- 
raded in  the  palace  square,  and  in  the  streets  leading 
from  the  cathedral  to  that  place.  These,  together  with 
all  the  other  principal  streets,  had  been  adorned  by 
silk  and  damask  hangings  from  the  windows, — the  na- 
tional colors,  yellow  and  green,  being  most  frequent 
and  most  admired.  The  illumination  which  took  place 
at  night  throughout  the  city,  but  specially  at  the  Pas- 
seio  Publico,  was,  of  all  other  parts  of  the  celebration, 
most  interesting  to  me. 

The  public  promenade  of  Bahia  is  located  on  the 
boldest  and  most  commanding  height  of  the  whole 
town.  One  of  its  sides  looks  towards  the  ocean,  and 
another  up  the  bay,  while  nothing  but  an  iron  railing 
guards  the  visitor  against  the  danger  of  falling  over 
the  steep  precipice  by  which  its  whole  front  is  border- 
ed. For  airiness,  this  locality  is  not  even  surpassed  by 
the  battery  of  New  York,  while  its  sublime  elevation 
throws  the  last  mentioned  place  into  an  unfavorable 
contrast.  The  space  allotted  to  the  battery  is  greater, 
and  is  laid  out  in  better  taste  ; but  the  variety  and  rich- 
ness of  the  trees  and  flowers  of  the  Passeio  Publico  of 
Bahia  fully  compensate  its  deficiency  in  those  respects. 
Here  it  was,  under  the  dark  dense  foliage  of  the  man- 
gueiras,  the  lime  trees,  the  bread  fruit,  the  cashew,  and 


GAYETY  AND  FASHION. 


59 


countless  other  trees  of  tropical  growth,  that  about 
nine  thousand  lights  were  blazing.  Most  of  these  hung 
in  long  lines  of  transparent  globes,  so  constructed  as  to 
radiate  severally  the  principal  hues  of  the  rainbow,  and 
waved  gracefully  in  the  evening  breeze  as  it  swept 
along,  laden  with  the  fragrance  of  opening  flowers. 

The  calmness  of  summer  evenings  always  throws  an 
enchantment  over  the  feelings;  but  there  was  a pecu- 
liar richness  in  this  scene.  Not  only  was  the  observer 
delighted  with  the  varied  and  skillful  exhibitions  of  arti- 
ficial light  around  him ; but,  lifting  his  eyes  above  them 
to  the  vaulted  empyrean,  he  might  there  gaze  upon 
the  handiwork  of  the  Almighty,  so  gloriously  displayed 
in  the  bright  constellations  of  the  southern  sky. 

The  wealth,  fashion,  and  beauty  of  the  Bahians 
never  boasted  a more  felicitous  display,  than  was  mu- 
tually furnished  and  witnessed  by  the  thousands  that 
thronged  this  scene.  What  an  occasion  was  here 
offered  to  the  mind  disposed  to  philosophize  on  man. 
From  hoary  age  to  playful  youth— no  condition  of  life 
or  style  of  character  was  unrepresented,  'j'he  war- 
rior and  the  civilian,  the  man  of  title,  the  millionaire 
and  the  slave,  all  mingled  in  the  common  rejoicings; 
while  the  practised  eye  would  not  have  failed  to  dis- 
cern in  the  crowd,  the  lurking  desperado  and  assassin. 
Never,  especially,  had  the  presence  of  females  in  such 
numbers,  been  observed  to  grace  a scene  of  public  fes- 
tivity. Mothers,  daughters,  wives  and  sisters,  who 
seldom  were  permitted  to  leave  the  domestic  circle, 
except  in  their  visits  to  the  morning  mass,  hung  upon 
the  arm  of  their  several  protectors,  and  gazed  with  un- 
dissembled wonder  at  the  seemingly  magic  enchant- 
ments before  and  around  them.  The  dark  and  flowing: 


60 


MONUMENTAL  INSCRIPTION. 


tresses,  the  darker  and  flashing  eye  of  a Brazilian 
belle,  together  with  her  sometimes  darkly  shaded  cheek, 
show  off  with  greater  charms  from  not  being  hid  un- 
der the  arches  of  a fashionable  bonnet.  The  graceful 
folds  of  her  mantilla,  or  of  the  rich  gossamer  vail 
which  is  sometimes  its  substitute,  wreathed  in  some 
indescribable  manner  over  the  broad,  high,  and  fancy- 
wrought  shell  that  adorns  her  head,  can  scarcely  be 
improved  by  any  imitation  of  foreign  fashions.  Never- 
theless, the  forte  of  a Brazilian  lady  is  in  her  guitar, 
and  the  soft  modinhas  she  sings  in  accompaniment  to 
its  tones. 

Besides  its  walks  and  its  natural  scenery,  the  Pas- 
seio  Publico  presented  two  objects  of  special  attraction. 
One  was,  the  marble  monument  erected  in  memory  of 
Don  John’s  visit  to  Bahia.  Long  and  learned  inscrip- 
tions, in  Latin,  had  been  set  with  solid  gold  in  its 
quadrilateral  tablet,  to  explain  its  design.  But  some 
Vandal  hand  had  chiselled  out  the  precious  metal,  thus 
marring  the  beauty  and  splendor  of  the  structure. 
On  this  occasion  illuminated  forms,  fitted  to  the  peer- 
ing shafts  of  the  monument,  displayed  with  large  and 
brilliant  letters  the  following  extravaganzas : 

1. 

Entre  as  negras  borrascas  que  negrejao 
Es  o nosso  Santelmo  6 Grande  Pedro. 

2. 

Mil  vezes  traga  o sol, 

O natal  do  Monarcha  Brazileiro, 

Pelas  sttas  virtudes  sobre  o Throno, 

Assombre  o mundo  inteiro. 

3. 

Pedro  esse  nome  Augusto, 

Simboliza  uniao,  integridade 


EXCURSION  UP  THE  BAY. 


61 


Prosperidade  e ordem, 

Paz,  duragao  grandeza  e liberdade. 

4. 

Salve  6 dois  de  Dezembro  magestozo, 

Exulta  6 Patria  salve  o Grande  dia, 

Sob  os  auspieios  teos  a liberdade 
Floreee,  passo  a par  com  a monarchia. 

In  another  quarter,  upon  a high  parapet  overlooking 
the  sea  and  bay,  had  been  constructed  a fancy  pavillion, 
in  the  style  of  an  Athenian  temple.  In  front  of  this, 
supported  by  the  central  columns,  had  been  placed  a 
full-length  portrait  of  his  Majesty,  that  day  fourteen 
years  old.  In  the  saloons  of  this  palacete  were  sta- 
tioned bands  of  music,  surrounded  by  ladies  and  dig- 
nitaries of  the  province.  The  portrait  of  the  Emperor 
was  concealed  by  a curtain  until  a given  hour  of  the 
evening,  when  the  president  made  his  appearance,  and 
suddenly  drawing  it  up,  gave  successive  vivas  to  his 
Majesty,  the  imperial  family,  the  Brazilian  nation,  and 
the  people  of  Bahia;  all  of  which  were  responded  to 
with  deafening  acclamations  from  the  multitude  around, 
while  the  heavens  above  were  emblazoned  with  the 
discharge  of  a thousand  rockets. 

The  next  day  I availed  myself  of  an  opportunity  of 
making  an  excursion  among  the  islands  of  the  bay.  A 
small  iron  steamboat,  of  light  draft,  had  been  adver- 
tised for  the  occasion;  and  by  ten  o’clock,  the  hour  of 
sailing,  about  one  hundred  persons  had  collected  on 
board.  The  majority  of  the  passengers  appeared  to 
be  foreigners.  Besides  Brazilians  and  Portuguese, 
groups  of  English,  Germans  and  French,  were  here 
thrown  together ; while  a few  North  Americans  were 
not  wanting.  Each  party  had  provided  its  own  pro- 
visions, anticipating  a pic-nic. 

F 


62 


ITAPARICA BOM  JESUS. 


The  clay  was  fine,  and  the  weather  as  charming  as 
could  he  wished.  We  first  steered  for  Itaparica,  and 
promptly  traversed  the  nine  miles  intervening  between 
the  city  and  that  island.  Passing  round  the  upper  ex- 
tremity of  the  island,  we  came  to  its  principal  port,  and 
went  on  shore  by  means  of  canoes  that  immediately 
gathered  around  the  steamboat.  Here  we  found  a villa 
defended  by  a fort,  having  two  churches,  and  about 
three  hundred  small,  low  houses. 

It  was  here  that  the  seat  of  the  provincial  govern- 
ment had  been  transferred  during  the  late  revolution. 
Here  thousands  of  people  had  been  obliged  to  resort 
for  business  and  for  safety.  That  so  many  persons 
could  have  lived  so  long  as  they  were  obliged  to,  in 
such  narrow  and  inconvenient  quarters,  would  never 
have  been  believed,  had  not  war  and  threatened  de- 
struction forced  them  to  make  the  trial.  After  having 
walked  through  the  streets  of  the  villa  of  Itaparica,  we 
ascended  a neighboring  eminence,  on  which  had  been 
stationed  the  look-outs  of  the  legalist  troops,  and  from 
which  w'e  enjoyed  a fine  view  of  the  bay  and  various 
islands  in  the  vicinity. 

At  one  p.  M.  we  sailed,  and  next  touched  at  Bom  Jesus, 
a small  island  situated  on  the  south  side  of  the  Ilha 
dos  Fradcs.  Here  were  a Matriz,  or  mother  church, 
and  a few  small  dwellings,  located  without  order  on  the 
praya.  Owing  to  the  shortness  of  time  and  a scarcity 
of  canoes,  I did  not  go  on  shore.  Those  passengers 
who  did,  gave  a favorable  account  of  the  people.  One 
of  them  brought  me  a beautiful  shell,  picked  up  on  the 
praya.  This  circumstance  gives  occasion  to  remark, 
that  some  splendid  collections,  both  of  marine  and  land 


BEAUTIES  OF  BAHIA. 


63 


shells,  have  been  made  on  the  islands  and  shores  of 
this  bay. 

Returning,  we  passed  near  other  islands,  which,  with 
their  small  villages,  appeared  exceedingly  picturesque. 
As  the  sun  was  setting  we  passed  by  the  small  pro- 
montory of  Bom  Fim,  and  enjoyed  a perfect  view  of 
the  city. 

What  can  be  more  beautiful  than  those  extended 
and  curving  lines  of  whitened  buildings — the  one  upon 
the  heights,  the  other  upon  the  water’s  edge — every 
where  separated  by  a broad,  rich  belt  of  green,  itself 
here  and  there  dotted  with  houses.  Nowhere  does  the 
uniformity  of  whitened  walls  and  red-tiled  roofs  show 
to  finer  advantage,  in  contrast  with  the  luxuriant  vege- 
tation that  surrounds  them.  In  fact,  there  are  few 
cities  that  can  present  a single  view  of  more  imposing 
beauty  than  does  Bahia,  to  a person  beholding  it  from 
a suitable  distance  on  the  water.  Even  Rio  de  Janeiro 
can  hardly  be  cited  for  such  a comparison.  That  city 
excels  in  the  endless  variety  of  its  beautiful  suburbs ; 
yet  I should  be  at  a loss  to  point  out  one  which,  in  all 
respects,  equals  that  part  of  Bahia  known  as  the  Vic- 
toria hill.  In  Rio,  one  section  competes  with  another, 
and  each  offers  some  ground  of  preference;  but  in 
Bahia,  the  superiorities  seem  all  to  be  united  in  one 
section,  leaving  the  foreigner  no  room  for  doubt  or  dis- 
cussion respecting  the  best  quarter  for  locating  his  re- 
sidence. On  the  Victoria  hill  may  be  found  the  finest 
gardens  that  Bahia  affords,  the  most  enchanting  walks, 
and  the  most  ample  shade.  Here  too  are  the  best 
houses,  the  best  air,  the  best  water,  and  the  best 
society.  The  yvalls  of  two  ancient  and  extensive  forts, 
also  add  very  much  to  the  romance  and  historical  in- 


64 


HENRY  MARTYN. 


terest  of  the  place.  Tn  fine,  he  who  looks  for  any  one 
spot  that  combines  more  of  external  beauty  than  does 
that  to  which  I refer,  will  roam  long  and  widely  over  the 
face  of  the  earth.  Yet  it  was  here  that  Henry  Martyn, 
who  incidentally  touched  at  this  port  on  his  passage  to 
India,  forty  years  ago,  sighed  and  sung — 

“ O’er  the  gloomy  hills  of  darkness, 

Sit  my  soul,  be  still  and  gaze.” 

That  the  moral  aspect  of  the  place  has  since  under- 
gone any  manifest  change,  is  not  to  be  presumed,  since 
no  causes  have  been  at  work  that  contemplated  such  a 
change.  Facts  will  soon  appear  calculated  to  illustrate 
this  subject,  and  to  give  point  to  the  remark  of  Martyn : 
“Crosses  there  are  in  abundance,  but  when  shall  the 
doctrines  of  the  cross  be  held  up?” 

On  Wednesday  the  festivities  of  the  great  national 
anniversary  terminated  with  a pyrotechnic  display. 
The  Passeio  Publico  was  illuminated  more  brilliantly 
than  before,  and  all  the  gardens  surrounding  the 
Campo  de  San  Pedro  were  lighted  up  with  torches  and 
bonfires.  A large  platform  had  been  erected  in  the 
centre  of  this  square,  upon  which  the  Emperor’s  por- 
trait was  again  exhibited — the  archbishop  assisting 
the  president  to  roll  up  the  curtain  from  before  it  at 
the  appointed  hour.  The  concourse  of  people  was 
vastly  greater  than  it  had  been  on  any  previous  even- 
ing. The  weather  was  without  interruption  serene 
and  beautiful,  but  neither  the  plan  nor  execution  of 
the  fire-works  deserved  high  commendation.  Yet  all 
the  bustle  and  crowd  passed  away,  as  on  the  previous 
nights,  without  the  slightest  disturbance.  This  fact 
was  certainly  a happy  comment  upon  the  orderly  dis- 


CIVIC  CELEBRATION. 


65 


position  of  the  people.  I witnessed  no  funcgao  in  Brazil 
which  was,  on  the  whole,  more  interesting  to  me  than 
this.  Its  superiority  over  the  exhibitions  of  the  usual 
religious  festivals  was  manifest.  In  fact,  the  simple 
circumstance  that  it  was  a civic  celebration,  and  des- 
titute of  any  religious  pretensions,  went  far  to  com- 
mend it  to  the  admiration  of  any  one  who  had  often 
been  shocked  by  those  incongruous  medleys  of  the 
solemn  and  the  ridiculous,  which  are  by  many  thought 
essential  to  the  “ pomp  and  splendor”  of  religious  an- 
niversaries. 


Vol.  II.— 9 


F 2 


I 


G6 


AMERICAN  CEMETERY. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

American  Cemetery. — Image  Factories.  Ecclesiastical  Establish- 
ment.— Franciscan  Monks. — Miraculous  linage.— Promotion  of  St. 
Anthony. — Benedictines.  — Carmelites.  — Nunneries. — Recolhimen- 
tos. — Capuchins. — Missionary  Enterprise. — Comments  of  the  Arch- 
bishop.— Examination  in  Logic. — Style  of  Argumentation. — Visit  to 
a Nunnery. — Dissemination  of  Scriptures. — Bethel  Service. — Com- 
merce.— Slave  Trade. — Excursion  to  Bom-Fim. 

Bahia  is  the  only  town  in  Brazil  in  which  there 
exists  an  American  cemetery,  or  a place  of  interment 
belonging  to  citizens  of  the  United  States.  The  Eng- 
lish being  much  more  numerous,  and  besides,  being 
assisted  by  the  funds  of  their  government  to  procure 
places  of  interment,  as  well  as  to  build  churches  and 
support  chaplains  in  foreign  countries,  have  cemeteries 
in  nearly  every  town  of  importance.  Nor  are  British 
subjects  only,  benefited  by  this  noble  policy  of  their 
government.  Protestants  of  all  nations,  and  citizens 
of  the  United  States  especially,  are  under  great  obli- 
gations for  the  privilege  of  interment  in  the  English 
cemeteries  — a privilege  which  has  been  magnani- 
mously and  almost  uniformly  extended  to  them.  But 
for  that  privilege  our  citizens  would  often  be  greatly 
embarrassed,  particularly  in  Catholic  countries,  for 
want  of  a place  to  bury  their  dead.  The  case  in  ques- 
tion proves  this.  The  private,  though  liberal  subscrip- 
tions of  our  countrymen,  who  have  visited  or  resided 
in  Bahia  for  a series  of  years,  have  scarcely  sufficed  to 
purchase,  and  suitably  ornament,  the  small  spot  of 
ground  that  had  been  designated  for  an  American 


IMAGE  FACTORIES. 


67 


cemetery.  Surely  such  an  enterprise  ought  not  to  be 
left  by  our  government  entirely  to  private  generosity. 
This  cemetery  is  located  on  the  water  side,  under  the 
brow  of  Victoria  hill.  It  as  yet  contains  but  a few 
graves,  and  several  of  those  were  allotted  to  citizens 
of  other  nations  than  our  own.  Tall  green  grass  was 
growing  over  them,  but  no  suitable  gateway  had  been 
constructed  to  mark  the  entrance  to  the  spot. 

During  a walk  one  morning,  in  the  lower  town,  my 
attention  wras  called  to  various  fabricas  de  imagens — 
image  manufactories.  Saints,  crucifixes,  and  every 
species  of  the  ghostly  paraphernalia  of  Romanism  were 
here  exhibited  in  the  shops,  with  a profusion  that  I no 
where  else  saw,  indicating  that  the  traffic  in  these  arti- 
cles was  more  flourishing  here  than  in  other  parts.  It 
is  not  in  name  only  that  Bahia  enjoys  the  ecclesiasti- 
cal supremacy  of  Brazil.  It  is  the  seat  of  the  only 
archbishopric  in  the  empire.  Its  churches  exceed  in 
number,  and  in  sumptuousness,  those  of  any  other 
city;  and  its  convents  are  said  to  contain  more  friars 
and  more  nuns  than  those  of  all  the  empire  besides. 
These  being  the  facts,  it  will  be  in  place  for  me  here 
to  dwell  a little  upon  the  ecclesiastical  history  of  Ba- 
hia, for  which  the  work  of  Accioli  furnishes  a rich  fund 
of  material. 

The  early  introduction  of  Roman  Catholicism  into 
Brazil  was  principally  due  to  the  Jesuits,  of  whose  his- 
tory I design  to  treat  in  another  chapter.  Other  orders 
of  monks,  e.  g.  the  Franciscans,  the  Benedictines,  and 
the  Carmelites,  also  established  themselves  in  the  coun- 
try at  an  early  day.  Bahia  was  made  a bishopric  as 
early  as  1557.  After  the  lapse  of  a century  and  a 
quarter  it  was  elevated  to  the  dignity  of  a metropolis, 


68  ECCLESIASTICAL  ESTABLISHMENT. 

having  suffragan  to  it  the  bishoprics  of  Pernambuco, 
Rio  de  Janeiro,  St.  Thomas  and  Angola.  Subsequently 
the  remaining  bishoprics  of  Brazil  have  been  annexed 
to  the  jurisdiction  of  the  metropolis,  while  those  of 
Africa  have  been  detached. 

Since  the  establishment  of  this  metropolis,  in  1676, 
not  less  than  seventeen  different  persons  have  been 
appointed  to  the  archiepiscopal  chair.  The  fourth  in- 
cumbent, D.  Joao  Franco  de  Oliveira,  is  said  by  the 
history  before  me  to  have  been  the  first  and  the  only 
one,  up  to  the  present  time,  who  has  visited  those  pa- 
rishes in  the  interior  of  his  diocese  which  lie  on  the 
river  S.  Francisco.  This  prelate,  as  an  exception  to 
his  brethren,  preferred  the  hardships  connected  with 
the  discharge  of  his  duty  to  the  ease  of  a life  in  the 
capital.  In  the  parishes  mentioned,  he  confirmed  not 
less  than  forty  thousand  persons.  For  this  worthy  act 
of  labor  and  self-denial  he  received  a vote  of  thanks 
from  the  council  of  Trent.  The  present  archbishop, 
I).  Romualdo  de  Seixas,  was  appointed  in  1826.  He 
was  a native  of  the  province  of  Para.  In  addition  to 
his  clerical  functions  he  has  repeatedly  been  a member 
of  the  house  of  Deputies.  Accioli  says,  that  “ the  well- 
known  talents,  the  profound  literature,  and  the  distin- 
guished qualities  by  which  he  is  adorned,  render  him 
superior  to  eulogy.”  The  salary  of  the  archbishop  is 
two  thousand  four  hundred  milries,  equal  to  fifteen 
hundred  dollars.  The  whole  expense  of  the  metropo- 
litan establishment,  including  the  salaries  of  nine  ca- 
nons, ten  chaplains,  and  various  other  assistants  and 
dignitaries,  amounts  to  about  seven  thousand  two  hun- 
dred dollars.  These,  like  other  similar  expenses,  are 
paid  from  the  imperial  treasury. 


FRANCISCAN  MONKS. 


69 


To  detail  the  various  facts  that  are  on  record  with 
respect  to  the  several  monastic  orders,  would  be  a tire- 
some and  a profitless  task.  A few  particulars  con- 
cerning each,  may  be  worthy  of  mention  as  matters  of 
curiosity.  The  Franciscans  have  a greater  income 
than  any  of  the  other  orders.  It  amounts  to  twelve 
thousand  five  hundred  dollars  annually,  and  is  expend- 
ed on  a hospital  for  the  indigent  brethren,  and  a very 
extravagant  procession  which  they  maintain  on  Ash 
Wednesday.  The  chapel  attached  to  their  convent  is 
very  large,  and  in  it,  up  to  the  year  1754,  not  less  than 
seven  thousand  three  hundred  and  fifty-eight  masses 
were  required  to  be  said  annually.  At  one  time  there 
were  nearly  six  hundred  friars  connected  with  this 
institution,  but  the  number  is  now  very  much  reduced. 
The  most  remarkable  thing  at  present  connected  with 
this  convent  is  the  image  of  S.  Antonio  de  Argoim, 
whose  mythology  amounts  to  this: 

In  1595,  a fleet  under  the  direction  of  some  Lu- 
therans, sailed  from  France  with  the  intention  of  cap- 
turing Bahia.  On  their  way  they  attacked  Argoim,  a 
small  island  on  the  coast  of  Africa  belonging  to  the 
Portuguese,  and  after  having  committed  various  de- 
predations, carried  off,  among  other  sacred  things,  an 
image  of  St.  Anthony. 

Once  more  at  sea,  the  fleet  was  attacked  with 
storms,  which  sunk  several  of  the  vessels.  Those  that 
escaped  this  fate  were  assaulted  with  a pestilence, 
during  which,  through  pure  spite  towards  the  Catholic 
religion,  the  aforesaid  image  was  thrown  overboard, 
having  been  first  hacked  with  cutlasses.  The  vessel 
that  carried  it  put  into  a port  of  Sergipe,  and  all  on 
board  were  taken  prisoners.  These  men  were  sent  to 


70 


MIRACULOUS  IMAGE. 


Bahia,  and  the  first  object  they  saw  on  the  praya  was 
the  very  same  image  they  had  so  maltreated.  It  had 
been  cast  up  by  the  waters  to  confront  them  ! 

A worthy  citizen  obtained  the  image  and  placed  it 
in  his  private  chapel;  but  when  the  Franciscans  learned 
what  a miracle  had  happened,  they  demanded  the 
image,  and  carried  it  in  solemn  procession  to  their 
convent.  So  great  was  its  fame  now,  that  king  Philip 
ordered  the  establishment  of  a grand  procession  in 
memory  of  these  events.  And  strange  to  tell,  popu- 
larity did  for  the  image  what  the  bitter  hostility  of  the 
heretics  could  not  do.  Its  friends,  the  friars,  became 
ashamed  of  its  old  and  ugly  appearance,  and  laid  it 
aside  to  make  room  for  a more  gaudy  and  fashionable 
one,  which  was  christened  in  its  name,  and  presumed 
to  be  the  inheritor  of  its  virtues.  Having  thus  been 
introduced  to  the  citizens  of  Bahia,  St.  Anthony  was 
now  enlisted  as  a soldier  in  the  fortress  near  the  barra 
bearing  his  name. 

In  this  capacity  he  received  regular  pay  until  he 
was  promoted  to  the  rank  of  captain  by  the  governor, 
Rodrigo  da  Costa.  The  order  for  his  promotion,  which 
subsequently  received  the  royal  sanction,  is  sufficiently 
curious  to  merit  a translation.  The  governor  says : 

“ It  has  been  represented  to  me  by  the  Municipal 
Chamber  of  this  city,  that  in  1645  it  was  resolved  bv 
the  aforesaid  Chamber  to  cause  masses  to  be  said 
annually  to  the  glorious  S.  Antonio  of  the  barra,  and 
that  a vow  was  made  to  him  that,  in  case  of  the  re- 
storation of  Pernambuco,  he  should  have  an  image 
made  of  silver,  a festa,  and  a solemn  procession  estab- 
lished on  the  day  of  the  restoration.  All  this  appears 


RANK  OF  ST.  ANTHONY. 


71 


in  the  records  of  the  Camara;  but  although  Pernam- 
buco was  restored,  after  suffering  under  the  oppression 
and  tyranny  of  the  Dutch  twenty-four  years,  yet  said 
vow  has  never  been  fulfilled.  Wherefore,  and  because 
we  now  more  than  ever  need  the  favors  of  the  afore- 
mentioned saint,  both  on  account  of  the  present  wars 
in  Portugal  and  of  those  which  may  yet  happen  in 
Bahia,  the  said  Chamber  has  besought  me,  in  com- 
memoration of  the  aforementioned  vow,  to  assign  to 
the  said  glorious  St.  Anthony  the  rank  and  pay  of  a 
captain  in  the  fortress  where  he  has  hitherto  only 
received  the  pay  of  a common  soldier. 

“ In  obedience  to  this  request,  and  subject  to  the 
approval  of  the  king,  I therefore  assign  to  the  glorious 
St.  Anthony  the  rank  of  captain  in  the  said  fortress, 
and  order  that  the  solicitor  of  the  Franciscan  convent 
be  authorized  to  draw,  in  his  behalf,  the  regular  amount 
of  a captain’s  pay. 

“Rodrigo  da  Costa. 

“ Bahia , July  16,  1705.” 

It  appears  from  Mr.  Armitage,  that  this  saint  has 
received  still  higher  promotion  in  Brazil.  That  writer 
remarked  in  1835 — “ S.  Antonio  holds,  up  to  the  pre- 
sent day  in  Rio  de  Janeiro,  the  rank  of  colonel  in  the 
army,  and  receives  his  pay  as  such,  through  the  hands 
of  his  terrestrial  delegates,  the  Franciscan  monks.” 

The  Benedictines  established  themselves  at  Bahia 
in  1584.  They  were  always  inefficient  as  missionaries 
to  the  Indians,  although  generally  distinguished  for 
good  morals  and  studious  habits.  They  have  managed 
to  acquire  a large  amount  of  property,  and  at  present 
own  in  Bahia  ninety-three  different  estates,  besides  all 
their  possessions  in  the  surrounding  regions. 


72 


BENEDICTINES  AND  CARMELITES. 


In  1827,  the  pope,  according  to  solicitation,  issued  a 
bull  making  the  Brazilian  Benedictines  independent  of 
their  order  in  Portugal.  Great  dissensions  broke  out 
among  them  immediately  after,  when  the  election  of  an 
abbot-general  took  place  at  Rio  de  Janiero.  The 
pope’s  legate  attempted  to  interfere,  but  was  repulsed, 
and  an  acrimonious  controversy  ensued.  The  order 
became  almost  extinct  in  the  process  of  time,  and  the 
National  Assembly  was  on  the  point  of  confiscating  its 
possessions.  The  conservative  policy  however  pre- 
vailed, and  license  has  been  granted  them  to  receive 
more  novices. 

Some  of  those  who  were  admitted  under  the  license 
have,  by  their  insubordination,  been  thorns  in  the  side 
of  the  old  monks.  Not  long  since  the  abbot  of  the 
convent  at  Rio  was  obliged  to  call  in  the  police  of  the 
city  to  help  him  maintain  order.  The  Benedictines 
also,  have  wonderful  traditions  respecting  a certain 
image  in  the  chapel  of  Nossa  Senhora  da  Gra^a,  which 
was  originally  erected  by  Diogo  Alvares,  the  man  of 
fire.  But  it  is  useless  to  detain  the  reader  with  such 
fables  any  farther  than  simply  to  illustrate  the  nature 
of  monkish  superstitions. 

The  Slippered  Carmelites  and  the  Barefooted  Car- 
melites have  had  their  day  in  Bahia,  but  have  been 
much  more  distinguished  for  wranglings  among  them- 
selves, and  for  evasions  of  the  revenue  laws,  and  of 
their  own  rules  forbidding  them  to  hold  property,  than 
for  any  special  virtues  or  good  works.  The  latter 
order  is  now  nearly  or  quite  extinct,  and  the  archi- 
episcopal  seminary  occupies  their  convent.  The  monks 
of  the  congregation  of  St.  Philip  Neri  founded  a hos- 
picio  on  the  praya  in  1756,  but  their  succession  having 


NUNNERIES. 


73 


failed,  the  hospicio  was  made  a house  of  refuge  for 
orphans. 

The  Barefooted  Augustineans  and  a company  of  Al- 
moners of  the  Holy  Land,  at  one  time  had  each  small 
establishments  in  Bahia,  but  their  buildings  are  now 
appropriated  to  secular  purposes.  The  Dominicans 
also  made  an  attempt  to  establish  themselves  here, 
but  through  opposition  did  not  succeed. 

The  nunneries  of  Bahia  are  in  the  order  of  their 
antiquity — 

1.  The  convent  of  Santa  Clara  do  Desterro. 

2.  The  convent  of  our  Lady  of  Solitude. 

3.  The  convent  of  our  Lady  of  the  Cliff. 

4.  The  convent  of  our  Lady  of  Mercy. 

Besides  the  regular  nunneries,  there  are  two  Recol- 
himentos.  That  of  St.  Raymond,  was  only  designed 
to  receive  twelve  females,  and  as  many  female  serv- 
ants ; the  former  having  repented  of  the  errors  of  the 
world,  and  wishing  to  enter  voluntarily,  subject  to  the 
simple  condition  of  reciting  daily,  for  their  souls,  three 
salve  rainhas.  The  other  has  the  invocation  of  Senhor 
Bom  Jesus  dos  Perdoens,  and  admits  twenty-five 
recolhidas,  and  occasionally  a few  girls  to  receive  an 
education.  The  recluses  are  required  to  wear  dresses 
of  dark,  coarse  cloth,  reciting  daily  the  Latin  prayer, 
designated  as  the  officio  parvo. 

It  only  remains  for  me  to  notice  the  Italian  Capu- 
chins, a class  of  bearded  mendicants,  whose  filthy  ap- 
pearance, not  less  than  their  impertinent  manners,  will 
have  been  observed  by  every  visitor  to  Bahia.  These 
monks  have  never  been  numerous  in  Bahia,  although 
a few  have  resided  in  the  province  from  a very  early 
day.  They  have  a hospicio  or  small  convent ; and,  in 

Vol.  II.— 10  G 


74 


CAPUCHINS. 


connection  with  it,  one  of  the  most  elegant  and  costly 
chapels  of  the  city.  This  church  is  lighted  through  a 
large  dome  over  the  principal  altar.  Its  side-altars 
arc  surmounted  by  large  paintings  instead  of  images. 
Outside  the  nave  is  a row  of  large  and  well-propor- 
tioned pillars,  extending  around  the  whole  building. 
The  inner  surface  is  white,  with  a moderate  portion  of 
gilt  work;  and,  on  the  whole,  the  edifice  deserves  to 
rank  high,  in  comparison  with  most  others  in  the 
country.  There  are  many  chapels  in  Brazil  of  greater 
dimensions  and  of  greater  costliness,  although  but  few 
that  have  been  constructed  with  a stricter  reference  to 
good  taste  in  architecture.  Since  the  days  of  the  Je- 
suits, these  Capuchins  have  been  the  only  ecclesiastics, 
among  thousands  of  monks  and  common  priests,  within 
the  archbishopric  of  Bahia,  that  have  with  any  pro- 
priety been  considered  missionaries. 

Their  character  is  given  by  the  Echo  of  Religion,  a 
paper  published  in  Pernambuco,  in  the  following  terms, 
which  certainly  are  not  the  most  complimentary  to  the 
other  clergy  of  the  country.  “ The  Capuchins  have 
never  been  a scandal  to  religion.  They  have  always 
been  the  type  of  modesty  and  of  Catholic  fervor.  They 
have  always  supplied,  both  in  catechizing  and  in  the 
exercises  of  devotion,  as  well  as  in  the  administration 
of  the  sacrament  of  penance,  the  idleness,  the  neglect, 
and  the  simony  of  our  other  clergy,  especially  the  secu- 
lar, (save  the  exceptions,  which  are  not  many.)  While 
our  old  Capuchin  missionaries  have  discharged  the  duties 
of  their  ministry  in  so  edifying  a manner;  while  they 
have  honored  the  cloister  with  their  continence,  the  altar 
by  their  fervor,  and  families  by  their  counsel,  our  other 
friars  have  been  renouncing  their  vows  and  deserting 


THEIR  MISSIONARY  ENTERPRISE. 


75 


their  profession.  While  the  Capuchins  are  diligent 
at  the  confessional,  receiving  the  tears  of  the  faithful, 
and  offering  them  advice  and  consolation,  our  priests 
(with  pain  the  truth  is  told)  are  frequenting  eating- 
houses.  When  their  appetites  are  satisfied  they  give 
themselves  up  to  gaming,  to  the  discussion  of  their 
neighbors’  faults,  and,  in  the  end,  to  political  brawls. 
In  fine,  when  the  Capuchins  are  disciplining  them- 
selves by  night,  our  reverendos  are  promenading  the 
streets  at  their  leisure — full  of  talk,  it  is  true,  but  ready 
to  barter  away,  without  remorse,  the  sacraments  and 
the  divine  offices,  to  those  who  will  give  the  most  for 
them.” 

These  monks  occasionally  make  tours  into  the  inte- 
rior, and,  it  is  said,  perform  wonders  towards  civilizing 
the  people.  In  order  that  the  reader  may  have  a just 
idea  of  their  operations,  I will  translate  an  account 
which  two  of  them  gave  of  missions  they  had  accom- 
plished the  year  I visited  Bahia.  This  account  was 
published  in  different  parts  of  Brazil,  and  lauded  by  the 
archbishop  and  others,  as  detailing  one  of  the  most 
extraordinary  examples  of  missionary  enterprise  that 
modern  days  had  witnessed.  It  was  written  for  the 
special  gratification  of  the  prelate  mentioned,  and  is 
understood  to  have  been  called  for  by  him,  with  the 
particular  design  of  furnishing  an  off-set  to  Protestant 
missions  that  should  fully  and  for  ever  eclipse  their  glory. 

“ Most  Excellent  and  Right  Reverend  Sir: — Since 
you  wish  to  be  informed  of  the  particulars  of  our  late 
missions  to  the  city  of  Cachoeiras  and  the  villa  of 
Santa  Anna,  performed  under  your  sanction,  we  have 
the  honor  to  satisfy  your  desires.  We  left  this  city  on 
the  seventh  of  September,  and  reached  Cachoeiras  on 


76 


RESULTS  OF  THE  MISSION. 


the  eighth.  On  the  twelfth  we  commenced  our  holy  mis- 
sion. Many  people  were  assembled : in  fact,  so  great 
was  the  concourse,  that  on  the  day  of  the  procession  of 
penitence,  it  was  necessary  to  preach  in  the  door  of  the 
mother  church.  The  confessions  were  innumerable  ; 
and  although  the  number  of  confessors  was  very  great, 
yet  we  could  not  serve  all  those  who  desired  to  purify 
their  souls  in  the  health-giving  bath  of  the  sacrament 
of  penance.  Many  were  the  scandals  removed,  ene- 
mies reconciled,  and  provocations  allayed.  The  num- 
ber of  matrimonial  bans  published  was  fifty-five.  It 
is  true  there  ought  to  have  been  more,  but  God  knows 
the  reason  why  there  were  not.* 

“On  the  twenty-first  our  missionary  novena  ter- 
minated, with  great  quietness  and  peace.  On  the 
twenty-second  we  began  to  administer  the  sacrament 
of  confirmation,  and  in  three  days  not  less  than  one 
thousand  eight  hundred  and  four  persons  received 
chrism.  On  the  twenty-fifth  we  left  Cachoeiras,  and 
as  we  carried  the  holy  images  out  of  the  city,  an  im- 
mense crowd,  amounting,  as  it  was  believed,  to  five 
thousand  people,  followed  us  to  the  distance  of  six  or 
eight  miles.  Long  before  reaching  Santa  Anna  an- 
other multitude  was  found  waiting  to  accompany  the 
said  images,  and  when  we  arrived  in  that  villa  on  the 
twenty-sixth,  we  were  received  with  delight  and  hos- 
pitality by  all,  and  especially  by  the  Yigario. 

“We  here  commenced  our  mission  on  the  twenty- 
ninth,  the  memorable  day  that  is  dedicated  to  the 
glorious  archangel  St.  Michael.  Many  people  were 

* In  a previous  mission,  according  to  their  statement,  they  had 
married  over  four  hundred  persons,  most  of  whom  had  before  been 
living  in  a state  of  concubinage. 


MARVELLOUS  SUCCESS. 


77 


assembled.  Great  respect  was  shown  by  the  principal 
inhabitants  of  the  town,  and  all  manifested  a thirst  for 
the  word  of  God.  The  confessions  were  innumerable. 
The  matrimonial  bans  were  nearly  one  hundred,  and  in 
connection  with  those  of  neighboring  parishes,  amount- 
ed to  about  two  hundred.  All  were  anxious  to  be 
delivered  from  the  meshes  of  sin.  Many  had  their 
offences  absolved,  and  several  marriages  were  solem- 
nized. In  a word,  they  gave  evident  tokens  of  convic- 
tion and  repentance. 

“On  the  eighth  of  October  our  holy  mission  was 
ended,  with  a concourse  of  people  supposed  to  amount 
to  twelve  thousand  souls.  Confirmation  followed  for 
three  days,  during  which  one  thousand  four  hundred 
persons  received  chrism.  Thus  our  mission  termi- 
nated; and  on  our  way  to  this  city  we  administered 
chrism  to  six  hundred  and  fifty-seven  persons  in  the 
chapel  of  Feira  da  Conceicao.  We  cannot  refrain 
from  mentioning  to  your  reverence  the  great  goodness, 
meekness,  and  affability  of  the  people  we  visited. 

“We  have  no  words  to  express  the  great  veneration 
and  love  with  which  we  were  every  where  received. 
The  people  of  Cachoeiras  and  Santa  Anna,  both  high 
and  low,  are  docile,  humble,  and  full  of  zeal  for  our 
holy  Catholic  religion,  and  ready  to  listen  to  the  per- 
suasions and  advice  of  missionaries.  With  this  minute 
narration,  which  we  offer  to  your  reverence,  we  kiss 
your  sacred  ring. 

“Ambrozio  da  Rocca,  } Apostolical  Capuchin 
Candido  de  Taggia,  5 Missionaries. 
“Archbishop  of  Bahia. 

“ Hospicio  da  Nossa  Senhora  da  Piedadc,  ) 

October  29,  1839.”  ) 

G 2 


78 


COMMENTS  OF  THE  ARCHBISHOP. 


It  was  in  reply  to  such  a communication  as  this, 
that  the  archbishop  published  a letter,  in  which  he  did 
not  content  himself  with  passing  the  most  fulsome 
panegyrics  upon  the  Capuchins,  but  also  proceeded  to 
attack  Protestants  in  a style  which  did  but  little  credit 
to  either  his  judgment  or  his  heart. 

After  accusing  the  Bible  societies  with  circulating 
mutilated  and  altered  copies  of  the  Scriptures,  and 
representing  Protestant  missionaries  as  having  accom- 
plished but  little  or  no  good  in  the  world,  he  proceeded 
to  boast  that  the  missionaries  of  his  church  went 
abroad  “without  any  Bible  but  their  breviaries  !” 
lie  also,  in  this  letter,  made  some  allusions  to  the 
operations  of  myself  and  colleague  in  Rio  de  Janeiro, 
which  induced  us  to  think  that  he  did  not  much  relish 
the  distribution  of  tracts  which  was  made  in  his  pre- 
sence at  the  anniversary  of  the  Collegio  da  Emulacao. 
Had  he  read  those  tracts,  however,  he  might  have 
saved  himself  from  making  a statement  which  every 
Brazilian  who  did  read  them  knew  to  be  false,  viz. 
that  “ every  word  in  them  was  a blasphemy  against 
the  Roman  Catholic  religion.”  Not  one  of  the  tracts 
which  we  either  published  or  circulated  in  Brazil, 
attacked  the  established  religion.  They  in  every  in- 
stance were  confined  to  plain  expositions  of  Christian 
duty,  and  exhortations  to  the  practice  of  pure  religion. 
Surely  this  prelate  needed  not  to  be  alarmed,  unless 
he  feared  that  the  circulation  of  the  ten  command- 
ments among  the  people  would  cause  them  to  rever- 
ence the  Sabbath  day,  and  to  become  less  enthusiastic 
in  the  worship  of  images  ! It  is  presumed,  however, 
that  instead  of  examining  into  the  real  facts  of  the 
case,  he  suffered  his  prejudices  to  be  excited  by  the 
misrepresentations  of  some  designing  persons. 


EXAMINATION  IN  LOGIC. 


79 


On  the  12th  of  December  I attended  an  examination 
in  logic,  at  the  convent  of  the  Slippered  Carmelites, 
to  which  the  public  had  been  invited  by  a pompous 
announcement  in  the  newspapers.  The  hour  appointed 
was  nine  o’clock  A.  M.,  but  I did  not  reach  the  place  until 
later,  when  the  exercises  had  already  been  opened  by 
an  introductory  address.  When  I reached  the  front  of 
the  edifice,  no  one  was  to  be  seen  who  could  direct  me 
to  the  room  of  the  assembly ; wherefore  I undertook  to 
find  it  myself,  and  followed  a line  of  green  leaves  scat- 
tered over  a stairway,  and  then  through  a veranda, 
until  I came  to  the  place,  a large  saloon  in  the  rear  of 
the  building,  where  I found  a good  seat  apparently  in 
reserve  for  my  use.  The  ornaments  of  the  room  were 
the  usual  gilt  and  crimson  hangings,  together  with 
some  twenty  paintings,  portraits  of  distinguished  Car- 
melites. Among  these  was  a head  of  pope  Dionysius. 
A part  of  the  floor  was  spread  with  a carpet,  and  over 
the  whole  leaves  and  flowers  had  been  scattered  in 
profusion. 

In  the  middle  of  the  room,  opposite  the  door,  sat  the 
padre-mestre,  the  presiding  officer  of  the  occasion, 
whom  I supposed  to  be  the  prior  of  the  convent.  At 
one  end,  upon  a sort  of  throne  arranged  for  that  pur- 
pose, sat  the  archbishop,  in  his  usual  woman-like  dress, 
not  of  black  like  that  of  the  other  priests,  but  of  red 
and  yellow,  surmounted  by  a lace  jacket,  or  garment 
of  some  name,  resembling  an  old  lady’s  short-gown, 
and  very  suitable  to  be  worn  with  petticoats. 

Immediately  in  front  of  this  most  reverend  prelate, 
was  an  open  space  extending  to  the  middle  of  the 
room,  and  flanked  on  either  side  by  benches  full  of 
friars,  with  their  heads  newly  shaved,  and  dressed  out 


80 


STYLE  OF  ARGUMENTATION. 


as  primly  as  possible.  I counted  about  thirty  Car- 
melites, all  distinguished  by  a white  silk  scarf  or  man- 
tilha,  hung  about  their  neck  and  shoulders  in  the  style 
of  a poncho.  At  the  foot  of  the  pulpit  or  box  in  which 
the  presiding  officer  was  stationed,  sat  two  noviciates 
styled  padres  defendentes,  towards  whom,  as  will  after- 
wards appear,  was  directed  the  entire  brunt  of  the 
battle.  In  front  of  and  facing  them,  sat  six  examiners, 
a part  clergy  and  others  laymen.  At  the  other  end  of 
the  room  was  stationed  a band  of  musical  performers, 
and  before  them  was  ranged  the  miscellaneous  specta- 
tors, a part  of  whom  were  also  priests,  and  a larger 
part  colored  persons.  The  band  was  playing  when  I 
entered.  On  its  ceasing,  the  prior  addressed  himself  to 
his  excellency  the  archbishop,  as  much  with  nods  and 
obsequious  grimaces  as  with  words,  requesting  him  to 
commence  the  exatninations  of  the  day.  The  said 
prelate  took  the  word  and  answered,  still  sitting  in  his 
chair.  He  expressed  his  excessive  satisfaction  in  being 
permitted  to  take  part  in  the  brilliant  scene  before  his 
eyes.  He  felt  this  some  reward  for  the  efforts  he  had 
made  for  the  promotion  of  education  and  religion.  He 
especially  congratulated  the  rising  prospects  of  the 
glorious  order  of  the  Carmelites,  (whereupon  all  the 
members  thereof  rose  on  their  feet  and  made  a gra- 
cious obeisance.)  3Ioreover,  he  lamented  his  own 
weakness  and  incapacity  to  perform  the  momentous 
duties  at  this  moment  before  him,  Ac.  Ac. 

After  a speech  of  moderate  length,  most  of  which 
was  very  sensible,  he  opened  a book  of  themes,  with 
which  most  present  were  furnished,  and  addressed 
some  questions  to  one  of  the  defendentes.  After  hav- 
ing sufficiently  discussed  the  proposition  he  had  select- 


THE  ETIQUETTE  OBSERVED.  81 

ed,  he  surrendered  the  floor,  and  the  band  played  an 
air. 

The  presiding  officer  then  called  upon  another  ex- 
aminer, who  immediately  rose  and  made  some  half 
a dozen  bows  successively  to  the  archbishop,  to  the 
chair,  to  the  friars  on  one  side,  to  the  friars  on  the 
other  side,  to  his  brother  examiners,  and  to  the  audi- 
ence in  general.  He  then  sat  down  and  commenced 
his  harangue.  This  etiquette  was  observed  by  all  the 
examiners  in  turn.  Each  one  had  a studied  exordium, 
abounding  with  the  most  fulsome  compliments,  {do 
costume ,)  aimed  at  others  but  meant  for  himself,  after 
which  he  proceeded  to  some  one  of  the  themes.  The 
object  seemed  not  so  much  to  ascertain  what  the  pupils 
knew,  as  to  display  what  they  knew  themselves.  Con- 
sequently the  spaces  between  their  questions  were  so 
abundantly  interlarded  with  explanatory  words  of 
learned  length  and  thundering  sound,  that  in  the  course 
of  half  an  hour  they  would  scarcely  suffer  the  neophytes 
to  respond  more  than  a few  meagre  monosyllables.  I 
could  have  conceived  the  gentlemen  examiners  to  be 
rival  candidates  for  the  office  of  chief  wrangler  in  the 
convent.  When  any  one  succeeded  in  confusing  the 
respondents,  which  seemed  to  be  the  special  ambition  of 
each  examiner,  the  good  prior  was  disposed  to  help  his 
students  out  of  the  fog,  and  thus  there  were  sometimes 
three  or  four  persons  speaking  at  once.  The  propo- 
sitions chosen  were  more  worthy  of  the  days  of  the 
schoolmen  than  of  the  “ seculo  das  luzes ,”  our  own  en- 
lightened age.  The  padres  defendentes  appeared  to 
be  tolerably  clever  lads,  and  I thought  did  remarkably 
well,  considering  the  circumstances  in  which  they  were 
placed.  The  scene  on  the  whole  was  truly  novel  and 

Vol.  II.— 11 


82 


VISIT  TO  A NUNNERY. 


interesting.  The  music  was  no  small  addition,  as  it 
served  to  banish  the  drowsiness  brought  on  from  time 
to  time  by  the  hair-splitting  discussions  to  which  the 
attention  was  directed.  The  exercises  continued  near- 
ly four  hours,  and  were  to  be  renewed  again  at  three 
r.  M.  But  I had  no  motive  to  return. 

Somewhat  dissimilar  to  this  scene  was  an  interview 
I had  in  one  of  the  nunneries,  near  which  I resided. 
The  nuns  in  this  establishment  were  celebrated  for 
making  fine  feather  flowers  and  delicious,  sweetmeats, 
of  which  fashion  required  every  stranger  to  procure 
specimens.  Whoever  chose  to  enter  their  chapel,  morn- 
ing or  evening,  might  listen  to  their  monotonous  chant- 
ing, and  occasionally  observe  the  sisters  through  the 
lattice  of  the  orchestra,  casting  downward  their  benign 
glances.  The  altars  and  images  of  this  chapel  were 
profusely  adorned  with  large  feather  flowers,  which  at 
once  honored  the  saints  and  exhibited  specimens  of 
the  handicraft  of  their  devotees.  Some  old  paintings 
adorned  the  pannclings  of  the  roof,  the  most  promi- 
nent of  which  represented  an  angel,  saying,  through  a 
trumpet — 

“ Adora  a Senhora  das  Merc6s.” 

Worship  the  Lady  of  Mercy  ! 

One  morning  I called  as  interpreter  for  some  ladies 
who  desired  to  procure  a supply  of  feather  flowers. 
Our  wishes  were  made  known  to  the  portress  at  the 
great  wheel,  which,  as  in  most  other  convents,  was 
precisely  similar  to  that  in  the  foundling  hospital  at 
Rio  de  Janeiro,  already  described.  The  portress  di- 
rected us  to  make  our  bargains  with  a nun  who  show- 
ed her  phiz  at  a neighboring  door,  through  which  was 
a circular  aperture  of  about  eight  inches  in  diameter, 


A DISAPPOINTMENT. 


83 


covered  with  a silver  grating.  This  freira  was  dis- 
posed to  be  very  sociable.  She  was  apparently  about 
twenty-five  years  of  age,  low  in  stature,  and  as  pallid 
in  complexion  as  a slight  sprinkling  of  African  blood 
could  well  permit.  She  showed  herself  not  wanting  in 
tact  as  a trades-woman,  and  while  we  were  kept  wait- 
ing for  specimens  to  be  rolled  out  on  the  wheel,  she  com- 
municated the  following  items  of  information.  “There 
were  twenty-five  nuns  in  the  convent,  besides  some 
educandas.  The  life  of  a nun,  moreover,  was  very 
pleasant,  and  she  was  much  attached  to  it.”  Not  finding 
the  species  of  feather  flowers  we  desired,  she  request- 
ed us  to  order  them,  and  call  on  a certain  day,  when 
they  should  be  ready.  The  order  was  accordingly 
given.  One  of  the  ladies  now  became  extremely  anx- 
ious to  see  the  inside  of  the  convent ; wherefore  I 
made  application  in  her  behalf,  and  was  promised  that 
she  and  her  friend  might  go  in  the  next  week,  when  we 
were  to  call  for  the  articles  ordered. 

The  appointed  day  came,  and  the  ladies  prepared  to 
visit  the  convent,  with  high  expectations  of  seeing  its 
internal  arrangements.  On  arriving  at  the  hour  desig- 
nated, we  found  the  door,  through  which  the  interview 
of  the  previous  day  had  been  held,  standing  open,  as 
we  supposed,  in  waiting  for  our  visit.  Two  aged  nuns 
stood  at  the  entrance,  examining  sundry  wares  and 
merchandise  brought  them  by  a crowd  of  pedlers.  I 
made  known  to  them  the  errand  of  the  ladies,  where- 
upon they  told  us,  with  some  surprise,  that  by  looking 
in  we  could  see  all  that  any  one  was  permitted  to  see. 
No  one  was  allowed  to  cross  the  threshhohl  of  that  door 
without  a license  from  the  archbishop.  I informed  them 
of  the  promise  of  one  of  their  number,  but  they  paid 


84 


ADMONITION  TO  THE  NUNS. 


no  regard  to  that.  The  ladies  were  equally  disap- 
pointed in  finding  that  their  order  for  feather  flowers 
was  unexecuted — another  promise  to  the  contrary  not- 
withstanding. The  nuns  remarked,  “ You  did  not  take 
those  we  had  on  hand — how  can  it  be  you  wish  for 
more?”  Afterwards  they  said  that  only  one  sister  un- 
derstood the  art  of  manufacturing  them,  and  that  she 
had  been  sick.  They  were  very  prompt,  however,  to 
promise  more,  which  should  be  in  readiness  by  Sunday, 
if  we  would  call  that  day  and  purchase  them.  After 
such  a proposition  I felt  called  upon  to  admonish  them 
of  the  sanctity  of  the  Lord’s  day,  and  of  the  inconsis- 
tency of  professed  religioners  devoting  it  to  traffic  and 
worldly  business.  I moreover  commented  upon  the 
great  importance  of  their  paying  proper  attention  to 
their  voluntary  promises,  and  of  not  suffering  their 
veracity  to  fail.  On  taking  leave  I presented  them 
with  several  tracts  in  their  own  language,  appropos  to 
the  subjects  to  which  I had  called  their  attention.  They 
said  they  should  be  much  pleased  to  read  them,  and  I 
accordingly  left  enough  to  supply  all  the  members  of 
their  establishment. 

That  the  reading  of  these  tracts  was  not  confined 
to  the  inmates  of  the  convent,  I had  occasion  to  know. 
On  the  very  day  I left  them,  a friend  of  mine  met  a 
padre  coming  from  said  convent  having  in  his  hand 
copies  of  the  folhetes,  which  he  was  reading  in  the 
street  with  such  profound  attention  as  to  pause  from 
time  to  time,  as  he  passed  along,  to  ponder  the  sense 
of  what  he  read.  My  friend  supposed  him  to  be  en 
route  for  the  archbishop’s  palace,  and  anticipated  for 
me,  in  consequence,  some  message  from  his  reverence. 
That,  however,  never  came;  and  I indulged  the  ap- 


DISSEMINATION  OF  SCRIPTURES. 


85 


A PADRE  READING  TRACTS. 

prehension  that  after  a quiet  opportunity  to  peruse 
the  tracts  I circulated,  he  became  fully  satisfied  of 
their  useful  tendency. 

I distributed  in  Bahia  a great  number  of  tracts. 
They  were  repeatedly  called  for  at  the  depository,  and 
were,  in  every  instance,  wTell  received,  notwithstand- 
ing some  furious  denunciations  from  the  clergy.  All 
the  Bibles  I brought  had  been  sold  during  my  absence 
to  the  north,  together  with  a supply  received  by  Rev. 
Mr.  Parker,  and  still  more  were  in  demand.  Copies 
of  the  New  Testament  were  not  so  much  called  for, 
although  all  I had  were  turned  to  a good  account. 

During  the  last  week  I spent  in  Bahia  arrange- 
ments had  been  made  for  me  to  hold  a Bethel  service  on 

H 


86 


BETHEL  SERVICE. 


the  next  Sabbath,  and  to  preach  on  board  an  American 
bark  then  in  the  harbor.  In  addition  to  the  seamen 
that  would  be  in  attendance  from  vessels  in  port,  it 
was  understood  that  a large  company  of  residents  from 
the  city  would  go  off  to  the  service.  The  weather 
proved  so  unfavorable  as  to  effectually  disappoint 
our  expectations.  At  the  appointed  hour  a heavy  rain 
was  falling,  and  so  rough  a sea  was  rolling  into  the 
harbor  as  to  prevent  all  communication  between  ves- 
sels and  the  shore.  It  was  no  small  disappointment 
to  me  that  I did  not  enjoy  the  opportunity  of  publicly 
preaching  Christ  crucified  in  the  harbor  of  St.  Salva- 
dor. I found  the  attendance  upon  the  English  service 
in  that  city  very  good,  certainly  in  comparison  with 
Rio  de  Janeiro  or  Pernambuco. 

The  commerce  of  Bahia  has  not  been  prosperous 
for  several  years  past.  In  fact  it  has  never  recovered 
its  former  vigor  since  the  revolution  of  1837.  One 
cause  has  been  the  renewed  activity  of  the  English 
cruisers,  which  began  to  be  manifested  in  1838,  and 
has  since  continued  to  oppose  a formidable  obstacle  to 
the  slave  trade  on  the  African  coast,  in  which  Bahia 
has  from  early  days  been  deeply  interested.  The 
effects  of  this  activity  are  by  no  means  confined  to  the 
number  of  prizes  taken,  but  are  still  more  obvious  in 
preventing  the  embarkation  of  slaves  than  in  capturing 
them  when  afloat.  It  has  not  been  generally  known 
that  notwithstanding  the  opposition  of  the  English 
nation  to  the  slave  trade,  and  her  vigorous  efforts  to 
suppress  it,  yet  that  the  strong  bulwark  of  that  traffic 
has  been  the  English  capital,  by  aid  of  which  it  has 
been  carried  on.  Such  is  the  fact.  Few  slave  vessels 
were  fitted  out  without  large  credits  from  English 


SLAVE  TRADE. 


87 


houses,  based  on  the  anticipated  sale  of  their  return 
cargo.  It  was  not  principle  that  cut  off  these  credits, 
but  the  repeated  losses  of  the  slave  dealers,  which  left 
them  nothing  to  pay.  Thus  English  philanthropy  and 
English  cupidity  came  in  contact  with  each  other,  and 
it  is  a happy  circumstance  that  the  former,  to  a great 
extent,  triumphed.  Yet  the  derangement  of  so  vast 
a business  as  the  slave  traffic  had  become,  has  been 
severely  felt  in  the  commercial  affairs  of  Bahia,  not 
only  on  account  of  the  number  of  persons  engaged  in 
it,  but  also  on  account  of  the  market  it  had  hitherto 
furnished  for  two  principal  products  of  the  province — 
rum  and  tobacco. 

One  of  the  last  excursions  I took  in  Bahia  was  to 
the  suburb  of  Bom-Fim.  In  company  with  a friend  I 
took  a small  saveiro,  as  the  row-boats  are  there  called, 
in  which  two  stout  oarsmen  pulled  us  briskly  along  the 
shore  until  we  reached  Boa  Viagem,  opposite  the 
church  of  Bom-Fim.  Sudden  rains  are  common  in 
that  latitude,  and  we  had  scarcely  landed  before  one 
of  them  came  dashing  down  in  torrents.  We  found  a 
shelter  in  the  porch  of  a large  house  until  the  violence 
of  the  shower  seemed  past,  but  as  there  was  no  pros- 
pect of  a final  clearing  up,  we  sallied  forth  and  com- 
menced our  promenade.  We  found  the  Bom-Fim 
church  open,  although  it  was  nearly  night.  The  edi- 
fice was  constructed  in  modern  style,  with  a taste  con- 
siderably above  the  ordinary,  and  ornamented  with 
paintings  and  rich  gilt  work.  It  had  a very  extensive 
platform  of  stone  in  front,  and  the  situation  is  charm- 
ing. It  was  under  process  of  painting  and  repairs, 
in  preparation  for  the  holidays  of  Christmas  and  New 
Year,  at  which,  as  well  as  during  the  entire  hot  sea- 


EXCURSION  TO  BOM-FIM. 


son,  the  vicinity  is  a favorite  resort.  Houses  are  then 
in  great  demand,  and  down  to  the  poorest  cabin  are 
densely  occupied  by  the  people  of  the  town,  who  glad- 
ly abandon  their  more  permanent  residences  for  the 
sake  of  a change  of  air,  and  the  delights  of  a country 
residence,  both  of  which  they  find  to  their  entire  satis- 
faction, by  a remove  of  from  two  to  five  miles.  Con- 
tinuing our  walk,  we  proceeded  on  the  principal  road 
to  the  city,  passing  through  the  cal^ado,  or  paved 
street,  which  is  ornamented  with  a long  and  beautiful 
row  of  houses  perfectly  uniform  in  size,  structure,  and 
appearance,  a circumstance  quite  novel  for  Brazil. 
Ascending  the  hill  at  the  northern  extremity  of  the 
calcado,  we  passed  by  the  Solidade  convent,  and  thus 
onward,  through  the  various  squares  and  windings  of 
streets  up  and  down  hills,  till  we  at  length  reached  our 
lodgings  in  front  of  the  iVIerces,  having  been  drenched 
by  an  unceasing  shower. 


VOYAGE  RESUMED. 


89 


CHAPTER  V. 

Voyage  resumed. — Province  of  Sergipe. — River  S.  Francisco. — Harbor 
ofMaceid. — The  People. — The  Buildings. — Dress. — Employments. — 
Cemetery. — Commerce. — Printing  Presses. — Revolution. — Insecuri- 
ty of  Life. — Inefficiency  of  Law. — Lack  of  Justice. — Moral  and  Re- 
ligious Necessities. — The  Bible  in  Macei6. — Conversation  on  ship- 
board.— Wonder-working  Medal. 

On  the  day  appointed  for  leaving  Bahia  on  my  north- 
ward tour,  the  passengers  began  to  collect  on  board  the 
St.  Sebastian  at  about  five  P.  M.  One  gentleman  ad- 
dressed me  politely  in  French,  soon  after  I reached  the 
deck  of  the  steamer,  and  informed  me  that  he  had 
taken  passage  for  Para,  his  native  province.  He  had 
recently  been  in  the  United  States,  and  was  delighted 
with  the  country.  “Ah,”  said  he,  “what  would  not 
Para  be,  if  it  were  in  the  hands  of  those  North  Ame- 
ricans.” 

As  soon  as  our  acquaintance  became  established,  he 
introduced  to  me  a Carmelite  friar,  his  cousin,  recently 
from  Portugal,  but  now  also  on  his  way  to  Para  to 
take  charge  of  a convent  belonging  to  his  order.  The 
speaker  proved  to  be  a brother  of  the  archbishop,  and 
a commendador  of  the  order  of  Christ,  who,  on  account 
of  some  political  irregularities,  had  found  it  prudent  to 
absent  himself  a short  time  from  his  country.  Having 
been  to  the  United  States,  he  had  made  a call  at  Bahia, 
to  visit  his  brother  on  his  return  home. 

Beside  the  persons  mentioned,  we  also  had  in  our 
list  of  new  passengers  a young  Brazilian,  nephew  to 
the  president  of  Bahia,  and  inspector  of  the  provincial 
Vol.  II— 12  h 2 


90 


SERGIPE. 


treasury  of  Alagoas.  These,  in  connection  with  our 
excellent  colonel,  formed  an  interesting  party.  Some 
of  the  authorities  on  shore  had  contemplated  making 
a demonstration  of  respect  towards  the  gallant  officer 
through  whose  bravery  their  city  had  been  delivered 
from  the  rebels  in  1838.  They  designed  to  come  off 
in  the  boats  of  the  arsenal  and  display  their  courtesy 
alongside,  just  as  our  vessel  should  part  with  her  moor- 
ings. Hut  their  movements  were  too  slow  for  the  fiery 
spirit  of  our  captain,  who  hove  up  anchor  at  his  own 
discretion,  and  soon  left  all  ceremonies  behind.  We 
were  fairly  on  our  course  by  nightfall,  and  having  the 
wind  in  our  favor,  we  passed  on  so  rapidly  as  next  day 
to  be  off  the  coast  of  Sergipe. 

This  is  one  of  the  smallest  provinces  of  Brazil.  It 
is  situated  between  1 1°  41'  and  10°  28'  S.  latitude. 
The  face  of  the  country  here  is  generally  low  but 
uneven.  In  passing  near  the  shore  an  abrupt  bank  of 
reddish  rock  and  sand  is  visible.  A dense  jungle 
covers  the  soil,  on  which  there  is  hut  rarely  seen  any 
appearance  of  cultivation.  About  twenty  miles  inland 
is  the  Serra  of  Itabaia,  a range  of  low  mountains,  on 
which  grows  the  Brazil-wood  and  other  valuable  trees. 
Occasionally  openings  appear  on  the  sides  of  the  Serra, 
which  are  said  to  be  used  as  slides  for  the  timber 
which  is  cut  and  exported.  This  Serra  divides  the 
forest  country  of  the  sea-coast  from  the  open  plains  of 
the  interior. 

The  province  is  but  thinly  populated,  and  contains 
no  city  of  any  magnitude.  Its  capital  is  called  S. 
Christovao,  after  Christovao  de  Barros,  under  whom, 
by  order  of  king  Philip  II.,  the  conquest  of  the  country 
was  first  made  in  1590.  The  name  Sergipe  is  derived 


RIVER  S.  FRANCISCO. 


91 


from  the  Indian  appellation  of  a small  river  running 
through  the  interior.  The  eastern  portion  of  the  pro- 
vince is  adapted  to  the  cultivation  of  sugar,  tobacco, 
and  other  kindred  products,  while  the  western  is  de- 
voted chiefly  to  the  rearing  of  cattle. 

Sergipe  has  few  or  no  commercial  relations  with 
foreign  countries.  Its  legislature  holds  sessions  from 
time  to  time  at  the  capital.  From  the  reports  of  its 
successive  presidents,  it  appears  that  the  people  are 
generally  very  orderly  and  patriotic.  Some  few  out- 
laws disturb  the  peace  occasionally  with  comparative 
impunity,  owing  to  the  slackness  with  which  law  is 
administered,  and  to  the  dilapidated  state  of  the  pri- 
sons. A press  was  purchased  by  the  province  in  1838, 
for  the  purpose  of  printing  official  documents.  Several 
schools  were  also  in  existence,  but  none  of  the  offici- 
aries  have  seen  fit  to  give  their  exact  statistics. 

This  province  is  divided  on  the  north  from  Alagoas 
by  the  San  Francisco,  the  largest  river  emptying  into 
the  Atlantic  between  the  Amazon  and  the  Rio  de  la 
Plata.  It  rises  in  the  province  of  Minas,  and  waters 
the  soil  of  Bahia,  Pernambuco,  Sergipe  and  Alagoas, 
in  its  course  to  the  ocean.  From  the  mouth  of  the  Rio 
das  Velhas  to  the  falls  of  Paulo  Affonso,  the  distance 
of  a thousand  miles,  its  waters  are  suitable  for  naviga- 
tion, although  from  the  sparseness  of  population  on  its 
banks,  and  the  lack  of  enterprise,  it  is  but  little  used 
for  this  purpose.  The  falls  of  Paulo  Affonso  are  de- 
scribed by  those  who  have  seen  them  as  an  immense 
cataract,  over  which  the  river  plunges,  forming  a spec- 
tacle of  the  utmost  grandeur.  The  vapors  arising 
from  the  ravine  may  be  seen  at  a distance.  They 
resemble  the  smoke  of  a conflagration  in  the  midst  of 


92 


HARBOR  OP  MACEIO. 


the  forest.  The  river  does  not  again  find  a tranquil 
bed  until  near  its  embouchure,  but  for  the  space  of 
seventy-five  miles  dashes  with  fury  over  a succession 
of  rapids  and  smaller  cataracts,  which  effectually  in- 
terrupt the  passage  of  vessels,  and  forbid  the  hope  of 
any  artificial  connection  between  the  upper  and  lower 
navigation.  Above  the  cataract  the  waters  of  this 
river  sometimes  overflow  their  banks,  and  extend 
themselves  for  leagues  on  either  side.  The  inhabitants 
of  the  country  then  take  to  the  hills  for  refuge,  and 
communicate  with  each  other  by  means  of  boats  and 
canoes. 

Greater  fertility  is  the  result  of  these  inundations, 
accompanied  at  the  same  time  with  desolating  fevers. 
In  these  solitary  regions  the  naturalist  meets  with  in- 
numerable flocks  of  wild  birds,  and  also  with  fish  and 
animals  of  rare  species. 

Alagoas,  which  lies  next  on  the  coast,  is  another  of 
the  smaller  provinces.  It  derives  its  name  from  the 
lake,  or  more  strictly  speaking,  the  inlet,  on  which 
stands  its  old  capital  the  city  of  Alagoas.  The  prin- 
cipal seaport  of  the  province  is  Maceio.  Into  this  port 
we  entered,  after  a passage  of  about  forty  hours  from 
liahia.  As  we  bore  up  to  lan  1 in  the  morning  after 
our  second  night  at  sea,  we  found  the  coast  very  flat, 
sometimes  exhibiting  a sandy  beach,  and  anon  banks 
of  eighty  or  ninety  feet  elevation,  denominated,  from 
their  prevailing  color,  the  red  cliffs.  We  approached 
so  near  these  cliffs  as  to  perceive  distinctly  their  stra- 
tification, which  resembled  successive  layers  of  brick. 

The  most  favored  island  of  the  southern  seas  can 
hardly  present  a more  lovely  aspect  than  does  the 
harbor  of  Maceio.  The  port  is  formed  by  a reef  of 


LANDING. 


93 


rocks  visible  at  ebb  tide,  which  runs  north  and  south 
for  a sufficient  distance  in  a right  line,  and  seems  to 
form  an  angle  with  an  extreme  point  of  land  on  the 
north.  From  the  same  point  the  beach  sweeps  inward 
in  the  form  of  a semicircle.  The  sand  on  this  beach 
exhibits  a snowy  whiteness,  as  if  bleached  by  the  foam 
of  the  ocean  waves  that  unceasingly  dash  upon  it. 

A little  back  from  the  water  stands  a single  line  of 
white  houses,  embowered  here  and  there  by  groves  of 
majestic  coqueiros,  whose  noble  fruit,  clustered  amid 
their  branching  leaves,  might  have  been  thought  to 
resemble  jewels  set  among  the  plumes  of  a coronet. 
Upon  a hill  side,  some  distance  in  the  rear,  stands  the 
city,  containing  a population  of  about  three  thousand. 

After  coming  to  an  anchor,  our  vessel  was  boarded 
by  the  port  officers  in  two  government  boats.  I soon 
after  went  on  shore  with  the  captain.  There  is  not  a 
decent  landing-place  in  the  whole  harbor.  When  the 
surf  is  heavy,  the  only  possible  way  of  landing  or  em- 
barking without  getting  wet,  is  to  run  your  boat  along- 
side the  posts  upon  which  a wing  of  the  custom-house 
is  built.  To  some  of  these  posts  strips  of  board  have 
been  nailed,  upon  which,  like  a ladder,  you  may  clam- 
ber up  with  some  sort  of  safety.  But  as  the  morning 
was  calm,  we  selected  a favorable  part  of  the  shore 
for  landing.  Mounting  the  highest  wave,  we  managed 
to  run  our  boat  aground,  and  then  as  the  water  re- 
ceded jumped  upon  the  sand. 

The  first  persons  that  attracted  my  attention  were 
six  full  grown  males  and  females,  of  a swarthy  com- 
plexion, in  front  of  a cabin  near  by.  One  or  two  of 
the  males  had  chosen  the  sand  for  a bed,  while  others 
had  stretched  their  persons  upon  some  bare  poles, 


94 


THE  CITY. 


where  they  were  lying  to  sun  themselves  ; while  the 
females  sat  hard  by,  performing  some  very  friendly 
office  upon  their  heads  and  hair.  Whether  these 
ladies  were  engaged  in  feeling  out  phrenological 
bumps,  or  in  some  less  scientific  employment,  I did 
not  stop  to  inquire,  but  mentally  congratulated  them 
upon  having  a long  and  beautiful  day  before  them  for 
the  accomplishment  of  their  arduous  enterprise.  I 
walked  round  the  entire  beach,  and  at  length  took  the 
road  to  the  town,  passing  over  a small  arm  of  the  sea, 
which  at  low  water  is  crossed  by  a pole  bridge.  At 
flood  tide  it  is  ferried  by  means  of  a jangada. 

Maceio  is  principally  located  upon  a single  street. 
The  city  contains  two  churches,  in  miserable  repair,  and 
vet  had  two  more  in  the  process  of  erection ; but  no 
convents.  Its  other  public  buildings  were  a theatre,  a 
government  house,  barracks  for  soldiers,  and  a cainara 
municipal.  The  theatre  was  ornamented  outside  with 
rude  crosses,  and  forms  representing  stars  and  circles; 
apparatus  for  illumination  was  affixed  to  all  these  or- 
naments. Notwithstanding  various  evidences  of  popu- 
lar interest  in  this  edifice,  it  stood  open  and  apparently 
deserted,  one  of  its  sides  having  yielded  to  the  force 
of  gravitation,  or  having  been  pulled  down  for  repairs. 
Most  of  the  houses  in  Maceio  are  built  of  taipa,  and, 
with  one  or  two  exceptions,  do  not  exceed  a single 
story  in  height. 

As  you  enter  one  Brazilian  town  after  another,  few 
things  appear  more  strikingly  characteristic  than  the 
different  shapes  of  the  water  jars  borne  on  the  heads 
of  the  negroes.  The  style  prevailing  in  each  place  is 
peculiar  to  itself.  The  following  cut  will  show  some 
of  the  variations. 


EMPLOYMENTS. 


95 


ABC  D 


A.  RIO  DE  JANEIRO.  B.  SAN  PAULO.  C.  BAHIA.  D.  MACEIO. 


It  was  not  a very  pleasing  sight  to  behold  numbers 
of  young  children  about  the  public  places  in  a state  of 
entire  nudity ; and  yet  I could  not  avoid  some  amuse- 
ment with  the  appearance  of  a small  negro,  strutting  up 
and  down  the  street,  vain-glorious  of  a pair  of  shoes, 
the  only  article  of  apparel  which  his  person  exhibited. 
The  shoes  were,  however,  a badge  of  freedom,  and 
that  he  was  not  a slave ; the  boy  and  his  parents  doubt- 
less had  a right  to  be  proud. 

The  principal  branch  of  industry  apparent  on  pass- 
ing through  the  town,  was  the  manufacture  of  lace. 
This  employed  the  ladies  of  many  of  the  houses,  who 
were  generally  seen  seated  on  the  ground  near  by  the 
door,  working  upon  a cushion  placed  before  them. 
Some  dwellings,  through  their  open  doors  and  windows, 
exhibited  more  or  less  persons  sleeping  within.  In  one 
or  two  instances  I observed  the  husband  and  wife 
affectionately  playing  cards  together,  while  nothing 
seemed  to  be  going  on  around  them  save  the  play  and 
mischief  of  children.  The  shops  seemed  particularly 
dull.  The  signs  of  several  consisted  simply  of  a spe- 
cimen of  the  principal  commodity  on  sale,  e.  g.  a salt 
fish,  a piece  of  carne  secca,  or  a piece  of  calico  fastened 


96 


IMAGE  WORSHIP. 


to  a stick  projecting  over  the  door.  Observing  a clerk 
in  one  of  the  leg  as  leaning  over  his  counter  and  en- 
gaged in  reading,  I stepped  in  to  converse  with  him 
a little.  His  book  was  a life  of  Carlos  Magno.  I pre- 
sented him  some  other  books  which  he  had  never 
seen,  and  for  which  he  seemed  very  thankful. 

Another  young  man  came  in,  upon  whom  I was  dis- 
posed to  bestow  similar  favors,  but  he  said  he  did  not 
know  how  to  read.  Near  this  locality  a chair  had  been 
placed  in  the  street,  and  spread  over  with  a cloth.  In 
it  stood  a small  image  case.  Just  as  I was  passing, 
two  persons,  tropeiros  from  the  interior,  crossed  the 
way,  and  kneeling  down  before  the  image,  devoutly 
kissed  the  glass  through  which  it  was  exhibited.  An 
old  colored  man  sat  close  by,  with  a scarf  over  his 
shoulders  and  a plate  in  his  hand.  I inquired  of  him, 
“ What  have  you  in  that  case?”  “ Our  Lady  of  the 
Rosary,”  he  replied.  “ What  is  she  doing?”  “Col- 
lecting alms  to  build  a church.”  Our  conversation 
continued  some  minutes,  during  which  I listened  to 
a profound  eulogy  upon  the  religious  virtues  of  the 
image,  which,  had  I trusted  my  eyes  rather  than  my 
ears,  I could  hardly  have  distinguished  from  a child’s 
doll. 

After  dinner  at  the  English  vice-consul’s,  to  whom 
I had  been  introduced  by  letter,  I walked  out  with  a 
company  of  gentlemen  to  survey  the  town  and  its  sur- 
rounding scenery  from  a neighboring  height.  The 
hill  which  we  ascended  was  composed  of  a red  loam, 
kindred  in  character  to  that  exhibited  on  the  coast  be- 
low. It  was  covered  with  rank  weeds,  as  was  almost 
every  other  spot  not  occupied  by  a house,  in  or  near 
the  town.  A small  piece  of  ground,  enclosed  by  a wall 


COMMERCE. 


97 


of  stone,  was  pointed  out  to  me  as  the  English  and 
foreign  burying-ground.  The  door  or  gate,  originally 
made  of  wood,  had  been  suffered  to  decay  and  fall  in 
pieces,  and  thus  the  enclosure  was  left  open  and  de- 
solate. 

Many  of  the  houses,  in  the  extremities  of  the  town, 
are  very  small,  and  covered  only  with  a thatch  of  the 
cocoa-palm  leaves.  I was  sorry  to  see  jugs  and  glasses 
exhibited  at  many  of  the  windows,  indicating  that  grog 
was  for  sale  within. 

The  exports  of  the  province  of  Alagoas  are  chiefly 
sugar,  cotton,  hides,  Brazil-wood,  and  rose-wood.  Su- 
gar, in  large  cases,  is  brought  from  the  interior  upon 
rude  carts,  drawn  severally  by  six  or  eight  oxen.  The 
cotton  comes  in  bales,  of  about  one  hundred  and  eighty 
pounds  each.  Of  these  a horse  carries  one  on  either 
side  of  a pack-saddle.  Mules  have  not  yet  been  intro- 
duced into  this  region  as  beasts  of  burden,  although  it 
is  thought  they  would  be  more  serviceable  than  horses. 
Of  late  the  greater  proportion  of  the  productions 
of  the  province  have  been  exported  by  way  of  Bahia 
and  Pernambuco.  Formerly  foreign  shipments  were 
more  frequent,  and  a greater  number  of  foreigners 
resided  in  the  place. 

At  one  time  two  newspapers  were  published  in  Ma- 
ceio;  but,  belonging  to  opposite  political  parties,  they 
were  continually  wrangling  with  each  other.  Bad 
words  soon  led  to  bad  deeds.  One  morning  it  was 
found  that  the  taipa  walls  of  one  printing  office  had 
been  broken  through,  and  its  types  and  press  destroy- 
ed. In  a short  time  the  other  shared  the  same  fate, 
and  thus  their  weapons  of  war  perished. 

We  tarried  at  Maceio  forty-eight  hours  at  the 

Vol.  II.— 13  I 


98 


REVOLUTION. 


period  of  my  first  visit.  On  iny  return,  four  months 
after,  I found  that  quite  a revolution  had  transpired  in 
the  interval.  A transfer  of  the  capital  of  the  pro- 
vince from  Alasroas  to  Maceio  had  long  been  talked  of. 
The  former  city  was  of  no  commercial  importance, 
and  contained  but  about  one  thousand  inhabitants, 
although  its  public  buildings  and  churches  were  of  a 
superior  style  of  construction,  and  it  was  generally 
preferred  as  a capital  by  the  inhabitants  of  the  in- 
terior. 

In  the  month  of  October  an  order  arrived  from  the 
imperial  government,  requiring  the  treasury  of  the 
province  to  be  removed  at  once  from  Alagoas  to  Ma- 
ceio.  The  inhabitants  of  the  former  city,  and  some 
of  their  neighbors,  determined  to  resist  the  order. 
They  assembled,  to  the  number  of  one  thousand  five 
hundred  men,  and,  actuated  by  a strange  infatuation, 
imprisoned  the  president  of  the  province.  They  shut 
him  up  in  his  palace,  allowing  him  nothing  to  eat,  un- 
til finally  they  conceived  the  idea  of  transporting  him, 
and  thus  delivering  themselves  from  the  restraints  of 
authority.  His  excellency  was  unceremoniously  taken 
on  board  a vessel  at  Porto  Francez,  and  embarked  for 
Bahia.  Having  got  to  sea,  the  president  resumed  his 
authority,  and  changed  the  destination  of  the  vessel, 
ordering  it  to  put  into  Maceio.  Here  his  excellency 
landed,  in  the  midst  of  great  rejoicings. 

The  leaders  of  the  insurgents  had  promised  their 
party  the  privilege  of  attacking  Maceio',  and  of  plun- 
dering it  in  case  of  success.  But  the  vice-president 
had,  in  the  meantime,  assumed  the  reins  of  govern- 
ment, and  dispatched  advices  over  land  to  Pernam- 
buco, whence  a reinforcement  of  two  hundred  soldiers 


MORAL  CONDITION  OP  ALAGOAS.  99 

had  been  promptly  sent  down.  On  the  arrival  of  this 
body  of  troops  the  rebels  dispersed,  without  having 
shed  a drop  of  blood. 

This  petty  insurrection,  it  was  said,  would  cost  the 
province  one  hundred  thousand  milreis.  But  Maceio 
had  now  become  the  capital,  and  its  inhabitants  were 
full  of  anticipation  that  their  town  would  soon  be  a 
great  place.  Rents  of  houses  had  doubled,  in  expecta- 
tion of  the  demand  at  the  approaching  session  of  the 
provincial  legislature,  and  business  of  all  kinds  was 
receiving  a new  impulse. 

From  a speech  of  the  president  of  the  province  of 
Alagoas,  Senhor  Manoel  Felizardo  de  Souza  e Mello, 
delivered  to  the  Legislative  Assembly  in  1842,  several 
items  of  melancholy  interest  are  gathered,  respecting 
the  state  of  society  in  the  interior.  It  is  to  be  feared, 
moreover,  that  these  statements  would  be  only  too 
true  if  applied  to  other  vast  portions  of  the  empire.  I 
translate  the  following  from  under  the  topic  of 

PUBLIC  TRANQUILLITY. 

“ Since  the  last  session  of  this  legislature  nothing 
has  occurred  to  disturb  public  quietness,  nor  are  there 
reasons  at  present  for  apprehending  any  commotions, 
especially  since  party  strife  seems  to  be  subsiding,  and 
the  whole  province  adopting,  in  unison,  ideas  of  order, 
love,  and  devotion  to  the  actual  form  of  government. 
While  I am  delighted  to  say  thus  much,  it  causes  me 
extreme  pain  to  be  obliged  to  add,  that  only  a short 
time  ago  an  immense  number  of  lives  were  annually 
destroyed  through  odium,  intrigue,  and  revenge. 

“ No  personal  security  existed,  especially  in  the  ser- 
toes.  The  existence  of  our  fellow  citizens  depended 


100 


INSECURITY  OP  LIFE. 


either  upon  the  simple  will  of  an  assassin,  or  upon  the 
wealth  and  influence  of  their  friends,  who  would  be 
sure  to  revenge  their  blood.  You  are  not  unacquainted 
with  the  sad  state  to  which  our  province  had  arrived, 
nor  are  you  ignorant  of  its  improvement  during  the 
last  few  months.  This  improvement  has  been  owing, 
first,  to  the  activity  of  a recruiting  party,  which  has 
removed  from  the  province  six  hundred  and  eight  idle 
and  vicious  individuals;  secondly,  to  the  progressive 
and  palpable  improvement  of  the  national  guards ; and, 
finally,  to  five  examples  of  capital  punishment. 

“ Not  to  offend  your  sensibilities  with  the  narration 
of  various  atrocities,  which  cause  humanity  to  blush,  I 
will  simply  mention  to  you  some  of  those  outrages 
which  are  most  notable,  either  on  account  of  the  cha- 
racter of  the  persons  against  whom  they  were  com- 
mitted, or  on  account  of  the  extraordinary  circum- 
stances accompanying  them.” 

Among  the  various  crimes  which  the  president  goes 
on  to  mention,  including  repeated  assassinations,  and 
one  by  a parish  priest,  are  the  following: 

“ The  villa  of  Atalaia  was,  for  a long  time,  under 
the  dominion  of  two  hair-brained  youths,  who  intended 
to  make  their  fortunes  by  violence  and  outrage.  By 
low  management  they  had  obtained  for  themselves  all 
the  civil  offices  of  any  importance  within  the  gift  of  the 
people,  or  had  conferred  them  upon  some  miserable 
characters,  who,  either  through  cowardice  or  affection, 
were  entirely  their  tools.  They  then  proceeded  to  burn 
dwellings,  kill  cattle,  shoot  at  houses  filled  with  wo- 
men and  children,  and  even  to  drag  out  criminals  from 
the  prisons,  and  assassinate  them  almost  publicly.  All 
civil  or  criminal  cases  were  decided  by  their  will,  and 


INEFFICIENCY  OF  LAW. 


101 


even  marriages  could  not  be  solemnized  without  their 
permission.  After  various  ineffectual  attempts,  these 
outlaws  were  at  length  subdued,  and  their  haunts 
broken  up.” 

In  illustrating  the  origin  of  such  atrocities  the  pre- 
sident remarks:  “There  are  still  individuals  who  live 
constantly  surrounded  by  a band  of  murderers,  through 
whom  they  become  dreaded  by  the  community,  and 
formidable  even  to  the  authorities.  Others,  of  less 
importance,  roam  about  having  no  fixed  residence,  but 
constantly  armed  and  ready  to  commit  any  crime.  In 
general,  the  lower  class  of  population,  at  whose  hands 
we  would  expect  to  realize  the  benefit  of  persevering 
industry,  finding  that  they  can  procure  the  mere  neces- 
saries of  life  with  but  little  exertion,  give  themselveg 
up  to  almost  unbounded  idleness. 

“ In  different  parts  of  the  province  where  I have 
traveled,  I have  often  entered  farm  houses  surrounded 
with  promising  fruit  trees,  and  found  them  nothing  but 
thatched  hovels.  In  the  doors  of  these  miserable  huts 
the  inhabitants  spend  their  working  days,  sitting  upon 
their  heels,  with  a knife  and  a blunderbuss  at  their 
side,  which  they  seldom  take  up  except  to  hunt,  or  to 
do  something  worse.  With  such  habits  of  life  what 
can  be  expected.” 

THE  ADMINISTRATION  OF  JUSTICE. 

“ This  subject  forms  a black  page  in  the  report  of 
all  the  presidents  of  provinces,  indicating  that  others 
beside  ourselves  have  to  struggle  with  the  overwhelm- 
ing evils  of  an  absolute  lack  of  justice,  and  of  the 
delinrjuencies  of  the  very  men  who  are  charged  with 
its  administration.  Our  justices  of  the  peace  pursue 

i 2 


102 


PUBLIC  INSTRUCTION. 


their  wonted  course ; either  doing  nothing  through  in- 
dolence and  cowardly  restraint,  or  practising  notorious 
injustice  when  instigated  by  selfish  passions,  or  by  men 
of  influence  in  their  neighborhood. 

“The  period  for  organizing  juries  is  the  time  of 
jubilee  for  criminals.  The  jurors  being  in  a high  de- 
gree ill-qualified,  having  but  little  general  information, 
and  still  less  acquaintance  with  the  important  duties 
of  their  office;  and,  moreover,  having  no  personal 
security,  can  by  no  means  be  relied  upon  for  the  ad- 
ministration of  justice  and  the  punishment  of  offenders. 
Rare  is  the  criminal,  even  among  the  most  abandoned, 
who  cannot  find  some  protector;  and  those  who  have 
some  powerful  man  on  their  side  are  sure  to  be  fully 
absolved.  This  scandal  has  reached  its  climax. 

“In  the  villa  of  Anadia,  where  a jury  had  not  been 
organized  for  more  than  three  years,  out  of  thirty 
criminal  cases  only  one  was  found  guilty;  all  the  other 
defendants  were  pronounced  innocent  and  falsely  ac- 
cused ! In  another  place,  where  in  ordinary  circum- 
stances it  is  with  great  difficulty  that  a competent 
number  of  jurors  can  be  assembled,  about  sixty  met 
for  a special  purpose,  and  on  their  first  organization 
cleared  all  the  persons  complained  of  and  then  sepa- 
rated.” 

After  these  representations  the  reader  could  not 
expect  very  favorable  accounts  of  the  state  of  public 
instruction,  or  of  public  worship.  In  the  whole  pro- 
vince there  were  thirty-nine  schools,  and  fourteen  hun- 
dred and  five  scholars,  taught  at  the  public  expense; 
besides  nineteen  private  schools,  numbering  three 
hundred  and  twenty-eight  pupils. 

Of  the  churches  in  the  province,  the  president  says: 


RELIGIOUS  NECESSITIES. 


103 


“They  are  in  the  worst  state  imaginable.  Many  of 
them  are  either  actually  falling  into  ruins,  or  have  no 
outward  similitude  to  a temple,  and  are  in  no  way 
calculated  to  inspire  the  respect  due  to  the  house  of 
the  Lord.  In  view  of  this  abandoned  state  of  the 
churches,  it  is  not  possible  to  disculpate  the  respective 
vigarios.  If  these  individuals  would  fulfill  their  own 
important  duties,  and  rouse  up  their  flocks,  our  tem- 
ples would  soon  exhibit  a suitable  degree  of  splendor, 
and  religion  would  assume  her  proper  brilliancy.” 

Surely  such  a state  of  society  as  the  intelligent  pre- 
sident of  Alagoas  has  depicted  in  the  document  from 
which  the  above  statements  are  translated,  requires 
some  more  powerful  influences  from  religion  than  can 
be  inspired  by  outward  splendor  of  any  kind  or  degree. 
It  needs  the  pure  gospel  faithfully  preached,  and  the 
word  of  God  familiarly  read  and  understood,  as  a 
means  of  enlightening  the  moral  darkness  that  prevails, 
and  of  softening  the  hearts  now  hardened  with  the 
practice  of  violence  and  crime. 

In  view  of  this  painful  necessity,  it  is  pleasing  to  the 
writer  to  remember,  that  he  made  every  effort  within 
his  power  during  his  sojourn  at  Maceio'  to  disseminate 
the  light  of  truth.  In  this  work  I met  with  no  opposi- 
tion, but  with  many  encouraging  circumstances. 

On  my  first  visit  to  the  shore,  having  become  thirsty 
during  a fatiguing  walk  over  the  beach,  I desired  the 
simple  but  very  suitable  beverage  of  a draft  of  fresh 
cocoa-nut  water.  I was  directed  to  a snug  little  house 
near  the  sea-shore,  which  stood  embowered  in  a grove 
of  thriving  coqueiros.  A man  about  fifty  years  old,  a 
Portuguese  by  birth,  received  me  at  the  door  with  due 
civility,  and  urged  me  to  walk  into  the  house  and 


104 


THE  BIBLE  IN  MACEIO. 


await  the  arrival  of  a negro,  who  would  be  able  to 
climb  one  of  the  trees  and  pluck  the  fruit.  The  domi- 
cil was  neat  and  comfortable,  and  a table  in  the  parlor 
exhibited  two  or  three  books.  One  of  them  I judged 
from  its  appearance  to  be  a Portuguese  Bible,  of  the 
British  and  Foreign  Bible  Society’s  publication.  To 
find  that  book  in  such  a situation,  was  a circumstance 
as  rare  as  it  was  interesting.  I immediately  directed 
attention  to  the  volume. 

“What  book  is  that?” 

“It  is  the  Bible.” 

“How  long  have  you  had  it?” 

“Eight  or  nine  years,”  was  the  reply. 

“How  did  you  become  possessed  of  it?” 

“It  was  given  me  by  a sailor  in  Bahia.” 

“It  seems  to  have  been  used  a great  deal?” 

“Oh  yes,  I am  very  fond  of  reading  it,  it  is  so  in- 
structive and  consoling ; but  the  mischief  is  I cannot 
keep  it  at  home.  My  neighbors  love  to  read  it  too, 
and  they  are  continually  borrowing  it  from  me.  I have 
loaned  it  to  go  great  distances,  in  almost  every  direc- 
tion; but  now  it  is  at  home,  and  I think  I shall  not  let 
it  go  any  more.” 

“ What,  are  there  no  other  copies  of  it  to  be 
found?” 

“ I do  not  know  of  any,  and  most  people  that  borrow 
it  have  never  seen  such  a book  before.” 

“Well,  I suppose  you  would  have  no  objections  to 
lend  that  copy,  if  you  had  another  one  perfectly  clean 
and  new?” 

“Certainly  not.” 

“Then  I will  send  one  I have  on  board  the  steamer 
for  your  own  use.” 


ENGLISH  GENTLEMEN. 


105 


“Will  you?” 

“Yes,  cheerfully,  and  along  with  it  a quantity  of 
Testaments  and  tracts,  which  you  shall  be  at  liberty 
to  distribute  among  those  friends  of  yours,  far  and 
near,  who  have  become  fond  of  reading  the  old 
Bible.” 

“Oh,  I shall  be  extremely  thankful!  I will  distri- 
bute them  faithfully,  and  wdien  you  return  down  the 
coast  I will  show  you  a list  of  those  persons  to  whom  I 
shall  have  given  them.” 

The  reader  may  imagine  that  after  such  a conversa- 
tion the  fresh  cocoa-nuts  were  opened  with  no  ordinary 
satisfaction  on  both  sides. 

The  selection  was  made  from  those  not  fully  ripe. 
In  these  the  water  (not  milk,  as  we  incorrectly  call  it) 
has  a rich  and  spicy  flavor.  It  should  be  drank  off 
directly  from  the  shell.  The  pulp  is  then  found  in  its 
transition  state,  quite  soft  and  free  from  fibre.  With 
a little  white  sugar  and  lime-juice  sprinkled  over  it,  it 
vies  for  delicacy  with  the  choicest  custard. 

I sent  the  books  on  shore  according  to  promise, 
and  on  my  return  I found  they  had  all  been  given 
away.  They  had  been  much  sought  for,  and  wrere 
highly  prized.  Indeed,  various  applications  were  on 
hand  for  more. 

I also  found  in  Maceio  two  English  gentlemen  who 
manifested  a laudable  interest  in  aiding  my  objects. 
One  of  them  had  resided  many  years  in  the  country, 
and  having  distributed  several  Testaments  in  Bahia 
some  years  previously,  was  convinced  of  the  happy 
influence  they  were  capable  of  exerting.  The  circula- 
tion of  these  volumes,  he  said,  was  calculated  to  remove 

Vol.  II— 14 


106 


INTERESTING  LETTER. 


the  incorrect  ideas  which  many  still  entertain  with 
respect  to  foreigners  and  Protestants,  especially  since 
they  had  been  taught  to  consider  them  irreligious  en 
masse. 

This  gentleman  had  recently  lost  his  wife,  a Brazilian 
lady,  by  whose  death  his  three  children  were  left  mo- 
therless. He  was  accustomed  to  read  prayers  and  a 
sermon  in  his  family  on  the  Sabbath  day,  an  example 
which  is  well  worthy  of  imitation  by  all  Protestant 
Christians  residing  away  from  opportunities  of  public 
instruction. 

All  the  Scriptures  that  I left  in  the  care  of  these 
gentlemen  had  been  disposed  of  before  my  return,  and 
one  of  them  had  received  many  applications  for  more, 
among  which  was  a very  pressing  one  from  his  rever- 
ence the  Vigario. 

After  leaving  Maceio,  and  while  residing  at  Per- 
nambuco, I received  a letter  from  a gentleman  at  the 
time  unknown  to  me,  but  with  whom  I afterward  be- 
came acquainted.  He  was  then  vice-president  of  his 
native  province,  of  which  he  was  soon  after  promoted 
to  the  presidency.  He  had  traveled  in  Europe,  was 
well  educated,  and  possessed  extremely  liberal  and  en- 
lightened views,  as  will  be  perceived  from  a translation 
of  his  letter  asking  for  a supply  of  Scriptures  for  his 
own  use  and  distribution. 

“ Maceio , August  ls£. 

“Respected  and  Rev.  Sir, — Knowing  that  you 
are  engaged  in  the  noble  mission  of  circulating  the  Holy 
Scriptures  among  the  people  of  this  country,  with  the 
design  of  promoting  a general  acquaintance  with  the 
sublime  truths  of  the  Gospel,  I take  the  liberty  specially 


CO-OPERATION. 


107 


to  request  you  to  favor  me  with  some  copies,  of  which 
I will  promise  to  make  a faithful  use,  sharing  them 
with  persons  of  my  acquaintance  who  will  fully  appre- 
ciate the  privilege  of  reading  that  precious  volume, 
that  treasure,  that  sacred  legacy  which  our  Lord  has 
bequeathed  us.  Allow  me  to  say  that  the  copies  for 
distribution  should  be  in  the  Portuguese  idiom,  since 
the  people  of  this  country  rarely  understand  any  other; 
but  for  myself,  I am  desirous  to  obtain  a German 
translation,  e.  g.  that  of  the  great  reformer  and  founder 
of  the  Protestant  church,  since  I already  have  one  in 
the  French  of  Ostervald,  and  I may  have  occasion  to 
analyze  and  compare  the  different  translations.  Should 
it  be  possible  for  you  to  send  me  a German  copy,  it 
will  be  an  additional  favor  for  which  I shall  have  occa- 
sion to  thank  you,  since  besides  discharging  the  reli- 
gious duties  in  which  you  are  so  worthily  engaged, 
you  will  confer  a special  favor  upon  your  most  atten- 
tive and  humble  servant, 

*###  #######  >> 

It  happened  to  be  in  my  power  to  satisfy  fully  the 
request  made  by  this  gentleman.  On  my  return  I 
found  him  much  interested  in  the  objects  of  my  mission, 
and  still  wishing  me  great  success  in  my  endeavors. 
He  expressed  a desire  that  an  offer  of  Testaments 
similar  to  that  made  to  the  legislature  of  S.  Paulo, 
should  also  be  made  to  the  Provincial  Assembly  of 
Alagoas,  in  the  belief  that  the  proposition  would  be 
gladly  accepted. 

On  resuming  my  place  on  board  the  steam-packet 
an  interesting  conversation,  on  various  religious  sub- 
jects, occurred  at  the  breakfast  table.  The  Brazilians 


108 


CONVERSATION  ON  SHIP-BOARD. 


made  no  little  merriment  over  certain  regulations  of 
the  Roman  Catholic  church.  They  were  not  bound  by 
the  rules  for  fasting  even  in  Lent,  when  on  board  ship, 
on  the  principle  of  eating  whatever  is  set  before  them, 
asking  no  questions  for  conscience  sake.  They  thought 
it  was  a strange  fancy  that  had  denied  to  fishes  the 
possession  of  flesh,  while  cattle  and  fowls  were  per- 
mitted to  retain  it. 

Notwithstanding  the  presence  of  the  old  Carmelite 
friar,  who  sat  moody  and  silent,  the  laugh  seemed 
verging  over  from  inconsistencies  of  religious  usage 
against  religion  itself;  whereupon  I undertook  to  vin- 
dicate pure  religion,  and  its  rational  requirements,  by 
reference  to  the  word  of  God.  The  Colonel  supported 
my  position,  and  said  he  would  follow  the  precepts  of 
God  rather  than  those  of  bishops.  He  added,  that  “ he 
did  not  allow  his  children  to  go  to  a confessor.  He 
had  a daughter  seventeen  years  old,  who  had  never 
yet  confessed  to  a priest,  and  should  not  till  the  eve 
of  her  marriage.  The  greater  part  of  the  padres  were 
so  immoral  that  instead  of  fulfilling  the  proper  designs 
of  their  office,  as  ministers  of  religion,  they  perverted 
their  opportunities  of  privacy  to  instill  into  the  minds 
of  young  females  ideas  which  they  ought  never  to 
learn.”  Senhor  Seixas  said,  that  his  children  were 
brought  up  to  confess  annually,  after  they  were  seven 
years  old,  for  which  purpose  he  sent  them  to  a confi- 
dential priest.  “Ah!”  said  the  Colonel,  “you  are  a 
fortunate  man  if  you  have  found  a confidential  priest!” 
Senhor  Seixas  “ thought  that  all  persons  ought  to  fol- 
low implicitly  the  religion  of  their  forefathers.  Jt  was 
on  this  principle  that  he  adhered  to  various  practices 


WONDER-WORKING  MEDAL. 


109 


upon  which  he  had  thoughts  of  his  own.”  I reminded 
him  that  on  the  same  principle  Jews  and  pagans  must 
for  ever  continue  in  their  rejection  of  Christianity. 
Here  was  a good  opportunity  to  make  some  special 
inquiries  respecting  the  Italian  Capuchins  of  Bahia. 
Senhor  Seixas  assured  me  that  they  were  apostolic 
men,  who  had  done  marvels  in  civilizing  the  people  of 
the  reconcave.  Among  other  glorious  deeds  they  had 
distributed  several  thousand  brass  medals,  commemo- 
rating a recent  miraculous  appearance  of  Nossa  Se- 
nhora,  the  Virgin  Mary,  to  a certain  nun.  These  me- 
dals had  of  themselves  wrought  miracles  in  repeated 
instances,  such  as  healing  the  sick  and  converting  in- 
fidels. I asked,  “ Have  you  confidence  in  these  me- 
dals yourself?”  “ The  fullest,”  he  replied.  “ I carry 
one  with  me  constantly ; I put  it  under  my  pillow  at 
night,  and  kiss  it  every  morning.  Moreover,  I am 
carrying  some  of  them  home,  as  the  choicest  of  pre- 
sents for  my  family.”  To  settle  my  doubts  at  once, 
he  added,  “ My  brother,  the  archbishop,  is  no  fanatic, 
but  on  the  contrary  a very  learned  man ; yet  he  has  so 
much  confidence  in  this  marvelous  medal,  that  he 
wears  it  upon  his  neck,  close  to  his  cross;  and  the 
bishop  of  Para  does  the  same.”  I intimated  that  an 
experiment  of  its  virtues  would  be  much  more  satis- 
factory to  me  than  even  episcopal  authority.  He  then 
promised  to  give  me  one,  in  the  expectation  that  it 
would  work  another  miracle,  and  “ cause  me  to  abjure 
my  religion,  and  be  baptized  as  a Roman  Catholic.” 
I begged  him  not  to  forget  his  promise  but  at  the  same 
time  deprecated  the  renunciation  of  my  religion,  un- 
less he  wished  me  to  abjure  Christianity  itself.  I will 


K 


110 


MEDAL  PRESERVED. 


inform  the  reader  that  the  medal  was  duly  presented 
and  received.  It  has,  moreover,  been  carefully  pre- 
served, but  it  has  not  been  worn  on  the  neck,  or  kissed. 
For  this  or  some  other  reason,  it  has  never  been 
known,  up  to  the  present  time,  to  perform  any  mira- 
cle whatever. 


DEPARTURE  FROM  MACEIO. 


Ill 


CHAPTER  VI. 

Departure  from  Macei6. — Republic  of  the  Palmares. — Appearance  of 
Pernambuco  and  Olinda. — Statistics  of  the  former. — Tall  Houses. — 
View  from  the  Observatory. — The  Reef. — District  of  San  Pedro. — 
The  Bridge. — Its  Shrines. — San  Antonio. — Boa  Vista. — Other  Sub- 
urbs.— The  Festas. 

It  was  about  ten  in  the  morning  of  a brilliant  day, 
when  we  weighed  anchor  in  the  harbor  of  Maceio, 
and  resumed  our  voyage  to  the  north.  We  kept  the 
shore  in  view  all  day.  The  coast  is  low,  and  presents 
a great  uniformity  of  appearance,  being  covered  with 
low  dense  forests.  There  are  several  ports  of  some 
importance  on  the  coast  of  Alagoas.  Porto  das  Pedras, 
Porto  Calvo,  and  Barra  Grande,  deserve  mention. 

In  the  years  1832-3,  this  territory  was  the  seat  of  a 
protracted  war.  It  originated  in  the  province  of  Per- 
nambuco, and  extended  itself  to  that  of  Alagoas.  It 
was  a civil  rebellion,  having  for  its  ostensible  object 
the  restoration  of  Don  Pedro  I.  after  his  abdication, 
and  is  generally  known  as  the  guerra  dos  Cabanos. 
The  same  region  is  still  more  noted  as  having  been 
the  theatre  of  repeated  and  bloody  contests  during  the 
Dutch  wars,  and  also  as  the  locality  of  the  famed  re- 
public of  the  Palmares.  Concerning  the  singular 
community  thus  designated,  I have  consulted  various 
Brazilian  authors,  but  none  of  them  gives  a more  com- 
prehensive and  satisfactory  account  of  it  than  does 
Mr.  Southey.  From  him,  principally,  I abridge  the 
following : 


112 


REPUBLIC  OF  THE  PALMARES. 


In  the  interior,  about  sixty  miles  from  Porto  Calvo, 
was  a place  to  which  numbers  of  negroes,  that  had  suc- 
ceeded in  escaping  from  slavery,  had  resorted  from  an 
early  day  in  the  history  of  Brazil.  The  interior  of  the 
country  was  then  scarcely  inhabited  at  all,  and  it  is 
conjectured  that  the  fugitive  Africans  made  choice  of 
this  spot  from  the  resemblance  of  its  scenery  to  that 
of  their  native  land.  Of  the  myriads  of  slaves  who 
had  been  imported  into  Brazil,  many  had,  in  process 
of  time,  found  shelter  here.  Here  they  multiplied, 
and  their  numbers  were  continually  increased  by  new 
desertions.  They  lived  in  villages,  which  they  called 
mocambas.  The  largest  of  these  was  computed  to  con- 
tain six  thousand  inhabitants.  It  consisted  of  three 
streets,  each  being  a half  hour’s  walk  in  length.  The 
huts  were  contiguous,  and  had  each  its  garden  behind. 
The  forests  supplied  them  with  fruit  and  game.  They 
were,  however,  a provident  and  industrious  people, 
and  cultivated  the  land,  so  that  at  all  times  they 
abounded  with  food.  Twice  in  the  year  they  gathered 
in  their  maize,  and  celebrated  both  harvests  with  a 
week’s  festivity.  Some  appearance  of  Christianity 
was  kept  up  amongst  them — a religion  which  they  had 
received  in  so  corrupt  a form  that  it  was  scarcely  pos- 
sible for  them,  ignorant  as  they  were,  to  make  it  more 
unlike  its  divine  original.  They  had  their  forms  of 
justice  as  well  as  of  religion. 

Every  evening  it  was  their  custom,  in  each  village, 
to  call  over  the  muster-roll,  and  see  if  any  of  the  peo- 
ple were  missing ; that  done,  they  began  their  dance, 
and  continued  it  till  midnight.  This  occasioned  a sin- 
gular deviation  from  the  ordinary  habits  of  natural 
life ; for,  in  consequence  of  retiring  thus  late  to  rest, 


PREDATORY  WARFARE. 


113 


they  slept  till  nine  or  ten  in  the  forenoon.  The  tract 
of  woodland  which  they  inhabited  had  two  material 
disadvantages.  It  was  liable  to  want  water  in  the 
dry  season,  and  it  was  not  far  enough  in  the  inte- 
rior. For  a time,  however,  this  nearness  to  the  Por- 
tuguese settlements  was  attended  with  little  danger. 
It  facilitated  the  escape  of  their  brethren,  and  allowed 
of  that  incessant  predatory  warfare  which  seems  to 
constitute  the  highest  enjoyment  of  man  in  a semi- 
barbarous  state. 

Sometimes  the  colonists  attacked  them,  waylaid 
them  on  their  watering  parties,  and  destroyed  their 
fields.  They,  on  their  part,  carried  destruction  among 
the  back  settlements,  and  inflicted  more  injury  than 
they  endured.  Their  own  district  was  a labyrinth 
with  which  none  but  themselves  were  well  acquainted ; 
while  the  fugitives  who  continually  joined  them  served 
them  as  guides,  and  gave  information  where  they 
might  best  direct  their  incursions.  The  war  which 
they  waged  was  merciless,  except  towards  those  of 
their  own  color.  With  such  it  was  their  avowed  prac- 
tice to  receive  all  who  fled  to  them,  upon  equal  terms, 
but  to  retain  all  as  slaves  whom  they  made  prisoners. 
Thus,  during  the  course  of  more  than  threescore  years, 
they  acquired  strength  and  audacity.  Not  being  at- 
tacked themselves  by  the  Portuguese,  they  acted  on 
the  offensive.  They  infested  the  districts  of  Porto 
Calvo,  of  Alagoas,  and  Pcnedo, — and  even  places 
nearer  the  seat  of  government  were  not  secure  from 
their  incursions.  Their  numbers  were  continually 
increased  by  slaves  who  sought  for  freedom,  and  men 
of  color  who  fled  from  justice.  A community  which 
was  thus  recruited  needed  a proportionate  supply  of 
Vol.  II.— 15  k 2 


114 


THEIR  GOVERNMENT. 


women;  and,  like  the  first  Romans,  these  negroes 
had  no  other  means  of  obtaining  them  than  by  force. 
Wherever  they  made  an  inroad  they  carried  off  the 
negresses  and  mulattoes;  and  the  Portuguese  were 
compelled  to  pay  a ransom  for  their  wives  and  daugh- 
ters, in  arms,  money,  or  whatever  else  the  enemy  de- 
manded. The  only  account  which  exists  of  their 
short,  but  memorable  history,  comes  from  the  people 
who  exterminated  them,  but  it  renders  them  full  jus- 
tice, and  will  not  be  perused  without  some  feeling  of 
respect  for  their  character,  and  compassion  for  their 
fate.  They  were  under  the  government  of  an  elective 
chief,  who  was  chosen  for  his  justice  as  well  as  his 
valor,  and  held  the  office  for  life.  All  men  of  expe- 
rience and  good  repute  had  access  to  him  as  counsel- 
lors. He  was  obeyed  with  perfect  loyalty,  and  it  is 
said  that  no  conspiracies  or  struggles  for  power  had 
ever  been  known  among  them.  Perhaps  a feeling  of 
religion  contributed  to  this  obedience  ; for  Zombi,  the 
title  whereby  he  was  called,  is  the  name  for  the  Deity 
in  the  Angola  tongue.  They  retained  the  use  of  the 
cross  ; some  half-remembered  prayers,  and  a few  cere- 
monies which  they  had  mingled  with  superstitions  of 
their  own,  either  what  they  preserved  of  their  African 
idolatry,  or  had  invented  in  their  present  state  of 
freedom. 

They  had  their  officers  and  magistrates.  Robbery, 
adultery,  and  murder,  were  punished  uniformly  with 
death.  The  slave  who,  having  joined  them,  was  de- 
tected in  attempting  to  desert,  underwent  the  same 
penalty.  Those  whom  they  captured  were  considered 
as  slaves,  and  were  treated  with  less  severity  if  they 
endeavored  to  escape.  The  chief  persons  of  both 


COMMERCE  AND  FORTIFICATIONS.  115 

sexes  attired  themselves  in  the  spoils  of  the  Portu- 
guese; and  indeed,  a regular  trade  was  carried  on  with 
some  of  the  Pernambucans,  who,  for  the  purpose  of 
enriching  themselves,  supplied  them  in  defiance  of  the 
law,  with  arms,  ammunition,  and  European  commo- 
dities of  every  kind,  in  exchange  for  the  produce  which 
they  raised,  and  the  gold,  silver,  and  money  which  they 
acquired  in  their  incursions.  Slaves  were  the  agents 
in  this  forbidden  and  criminal  traffic. 

A double  palisade  of  the  hardest  wood  which  the 
forests  of  Brazil  produce,  enclosed  within  a circuit  of 
four  or  five  miles  a population  of  more  than  twenty 
thousand  persons.  The  fortification  was  strengthened 
by  many  bulwarks.  It  had  only  three  gates : these 
were  placed  at  equal  distances  from  each  other;  each 
had  its  platform  of  defence,  and  was  at  all  times  under 
the  charge  of  one  of  their  best  officers.  The  palace 
of  Zombi  was  spacious,  and  not  without  a kind  of  rude 
magnificence.  The  houses  of  individuals  were,  after 
their  fashion,  commodious  and  splendid.  There  was  a 
lake  within  the  circuit  abounding  with  fish;  and  there 
were  also  running  streams,  but  the  water  seems  to 
have  been  brackish  or  salt,  for  the  inhabitants  sunk 
wells,  or  rather  those  shallow  pits  called  cacimbas, 
which  namerimplies  that  it  was  only  rendered  potable 
by  filtration.  There  was  also  a high  rock  within  the 
enclosure,  which  served  them  for  a watch-post,  and 
from  whence  some  of  the  Pernambucan  towns  and  set- 
tlements were  visible  in  the  distance.  Porto  Calvo 
was  the  nearest. 

The  place  was  called  Palmares,  from  the  number 
of  cocoa  groves  which  they  had  planted  round  about. 
Besides  this,  their  chief  city,  they  had  smaller  settle- 


116 


ATTACK  OF  THE  PORTUGESE. 


ments.  Chosen  men  were  stationed  in  the  several 
mocambas  for  the  defence  of  the  plantations.  Their 
weapons  were  of  all  kinds,  and  they  were  equally 
skilled  in  using  the  bow  and  arrow,  the  spear,  or  the 
sword  and  firelock. 

After  suffering  long  and  sorely  from  the  depreda- 
tions of  these  republicans,  the  Portuguese,  in  1695, 
resolved  to  exterminate  them.  For  this  purpose  they 
raised  an  army  of  not  less  than  ten  thousand  men,  and 
encamped  before  the  negro  fortifications.  They  were 
provided  with  ladders,  and  attempted  to  enter  the  place 
by  escalade.  Arrows,  boiling  water,  firearms,  and 
firebrands,  were  employed  in  its  defence,  and  the  as- 
sailants were  repulsed  with  considerable  loss.  Many 
days  had  not  elapsed  before  the  powder  of  the  negroes 
was  exhausted.  They  had  not  apprehended  so  serious 
an  attack,  nor,  if  the  whole  danger  had  been  foreseen, 
could  they  by  their  contraband  trade  have  procured  a 
supply  in  any  degree  equal  to  the  emergency.  On  the 
other  hand,  the  Portuguese  had  come  without  artillery, 
and  their  attempts  to  hew  down  the  gates  and  cut  a 
way  through  the  palisade  were  always  successfully  re- 
sisted. Considerable  loss  was  sustained  in  their 
attacks;  they  accordingly  dispatched  messengers  to 
the  governor  soliciting  a reinforcement,  and  saying  that 
without  cannon  it  would  be  impossible  to  enter  the 
place. 

It  was  now  a trial  of  endurance  between  the  two 
parties.  The  negroes  began  to  feel  a want  of  missile 
weapons,  and  of  provisions  also;  but  the  Portuguese 
were  at  the  same  time  upon  short  allowance,  and  the 
negroes  were  daily  in  hope  that  in  their  impatience  of 
disease  and  hunger,  they  would  break  up  the  siege. 


OVERTHROW  OF  THE  PALMARES. 


117 


Cruelly  was  this  hope  disappointed  when  from  the  rock 
which  served  them  for  a watchtower,  they  beheld 
large  convoys  of  cattle,  and  laden  horses  and  carts, 
advancing  to  the  relief  of  their  enemies. 

At  this  sight  they  lost  their  only  remaining  hope.  It 
seems  that  famine  had  now  in  a great  degree  deprived 
them  of  their  strength;  for,  when  the  Portuguese,  en- 
couraged by  this  arrival,  and  by  the  small  succor 
which  joined  them  at  the  same  time,  renewed  their 
attempt  to  force  an  entrance  with  the  axe,  little  resist- 
ance was  opposed.  The  three  gates  were  hewn  down, 
and  the  Zombi  and  the  most  resolute  of  his  followers 
retired  to  the  summit  of  the  rock,  and  preferring  death 
to  slavery,  threw  themselves  from  the  precipice — men 
worthy  of  a better  fate  for  their  courage  and  their 
cause. 

In  its  consequences  to  the  vanquished,  this  victory 
resembled  the  inhuman  wars  of  antiquity.  The  sur- 
vivors of  all  ages,  and  of  either  sex,  were  brought 
away  as  slaves.  A fifth  of  the  men  were  selected  for 
the  crown,  the  rest  were  divided  among  the  captors  as 
their  booty,  and  all  who  were  thought  likely  to  fly,  or 
capable  of  vindicating  their  freedom,  were  transported 
to  distant  parts  of  Brazil,  or  to  Portugal.  The  women 
and  children  remained  in  Pernambuco,  being  thus  se- 
parated for  ever,  the  one  class  from  their  husbands, 
the  other  from  their  fathers. 

At  half  past  two  o’clock  the  next  morning  after  our 
departure  from  Maceio,  we  made  the  light-house  of 
Pernambuco.  As  we  neared  the  town,  lights  on  shore 
became  visible.  We  came  to  anchor  outside  the  reef, 
and  at  daylight  a pilot  came  off  and  took  us  into  the 
harbor. 


IIS 


PERNAMBUCO  AND  OLINDA. 


The  appearance  of  Pernambuco  when  seen  from  the 
water  is  peculiar ; its  site  is  flat,  and  but  little  elevated 
above  the  level  of  the  sea.  The  white  buildings  erected 
on  the  praya,  seem  to  rise  from  the  very  ocean’s  brink ; 
at  the  same  time  they  lift  their  heads  so  high  as  to  prevent 
an  extended  view  of  the  town.  Inseparable  from  this 
view  of  Pernambuco  is  that  of  Olinda,  located  upon  a 
bold  and  picturesque  hill  two  miles  north.  It  was  the 
natural  appearance  of  that  hill  which  called  forth  from 
Duarte  Coelho,  the  first  donatary,  as  he  arrived  on  the 
coast  in  1530,  the  enthusiastic  exclamation,  “ O linda 
situagao  para  se  fundar  uma  villa!"  “O  beautiful  site 
for  a town!”  A town  was  accordingly  founded  upon 
the  spot,  and  the  exclamation  of  the  donatary  was  im- 
mortalized by  being  used,  in  part,  to  furnish  it  a name. 

Olinda  continued  the  capital  of  the  province  for 
about  two  hundred  years.  Although  for  beauty  its 
situation  could  not  be  excelled,  yet  its  location  was 
not  favorable  for  commerce,  being  too  far  from  the 
recife  or  reef,  which  forms  the  only  harbor  in  the  vi- 
cinity. A town  gradually  grew  up  near  the  recife,  by 
which  name  it  was  called.  For  its  inhabitants  the 
magnates  of  Olinda  cherished  the  most  sovereign  con- 
tempt,  calling  them  mascalcs  or  pedlers.  Neverthe- 
less, interest  at  length  gained  an  ascendency  over  both 
romance  and  aristocracy.  The  city  of  the  reef  became 
the  capital;  and  Olinda,  although  still  proud  of  her 
situation  and  her  early  greatness,  has  degenerated  into 
the  insignificance  of  a suburb  to  her  rival. 

Pernambuco  is  situated  in  8°  6'  S.  latitude,  and 
35°  1'  W.  longitude.  It  contains  at  the  present  time 
about  sixty  thousand  inhabitants,  among  whom  are 
enumerated  one  hundred  and  sixty  French,  one  hundred 


PERNAMBUCO. 


PERNAMBUCO. 


119 


and  twenty-five  English,  and  three  hundred  Germans, 
including  a party  of  two  hundred  German  laborers, 
who  arrived  during  my  visit,  under  contract  for  the  ser- 
vice of  the  provincial  government.  Of  North  Ameri- 
cans, the  number  resident  in  Pernambuco  seldom  ex- 
ceeds a dozen. 

This  city  is  divided  into  three  parishes  or  districts, 
called  severally  S.  Pedro  de  Gonsalves  or  Recife,  S. 
Antonio,  and  Boa  Vista.  It  contains  within  its  whole 
extent  seventeen  churches  and  chapels,  besides  the 
recently  erected  British  chapel ; two  monasteries,  three 
recolhimentos,  six  hospitals,  public  and  private,  a thea- 
tre, a government  palace,  custom-house,  prison,  marine 
and  military  arsenals,  and  three  suits  of  barracks  for 
troops.  Its  institutions  for  public  instruction  are  a 
lyceum,  two  Latin  and  seven  primary  schools.  It  has 
three  printing  presses,  publishing  two  daily  newspa- 
pers and  three  other  periodicals,  besides  occasional 
volumes  of  books.  Its  streets  are  paved  in  part,  and 
illuminated  by  three  hundred  and  sixty  lamps.  Four 
fortresses  for  the  defence  of  the  city  were  erected  in 
olden  time — the  Picao,  on  the  extremity  of  the  reef; 
the  Brum  and  the  Buracco,  on  the  sandy  shore  towards 
Olinda ; and  Cinco  Pontas,  or  the  Pentagon,  on  the 
southern  front  of  the  city. 

This  city  is  still  frequently  denominated  the  Recife, 
although  it  is  chiefly  known  abroad  by  the  more  eu- 
phonious name  of  Pernambuco,  derived  from  the  pro- 
vince of  which  it  is  the  capital.  It  ranks  as  the 
third  city  in  Brazil. 

Immediately  after  the  S.  Sebastian  came  to  her 
moorings  I went  on  shore,  and  called  upon  Joseph 
Ray,  Esq.,  consul  of  the  United  States,  who  not  only 


120 


HOUSES — OBSERVATORY. 


received  me  in  the  most  cordial  manner,  but  gene- 
rously insisted  upon  my  making  his  house  my  home; 
and  a most  hospitable  home  I found  it  during  a sojourn 
of  nearly  two  months  in  that  city. 

Many  of  the  houses  of  Pernambuco  are  built  in  a 
style  unknown  in  other  parts  of  Brazil.  That  occu- 
pied by  Mr.  Ray,  stood  fronting  the  water  side.  Its 
description  may  serve  as  a specimen  of  the  style  re- 
ferred to.  It  was  six  stories  high.  The  first  or  ground 
door  was  denominated  the  armazem,  and  was  occupied 
by  male  servants  at  night;  the  second  furnished  apart- 
ments for  the  counting-room,  consulate,  Ac. ; the  third 
and  fourth  for  parlors  and  lodging  rooms ; the  fifth  for 
dining  rooms,  and  the  sixth  for  a kitchen.  Readers 
of  domestic  habits,  will  perceive  that  one  special  ad- 
vantage of  having  a kitchen  located  in  the  attic,  arises 
from  the  upward  tendency  of  the  smoke  and  effluvia 
universally  produced  by  culinary  operations.  A dis- 
advantage, however,  inseparable  from  the  arrange- 
ment, is  the  necessity  of  conveying  various  heavy 
articles  up  so  many  flights  of  stairs.  Water  might  he 
mentioned  for  example,  which,  in  the  absence  of  all 
mechanical  contrivances  for  such  an  object,  was  car- 
ried up  on  the  heads  of  negroes.  Any  one  will  perceive 
that  the  liability  of  mistake,  in  endeavoring  to  pre- 
serve the  equilibrium  of  each  vessel  of  water  thus 
transported,  exposed  the  lower  portion  of  the  house  to 
the  danger  of  a flood.  Surmounting  the  sixth  story, 
and  constituting  in  one  sense  the  seventh,  was  a 
splendid  observatory,  glazed  above  and  on  all  sides. 

The  prospect  from  this  observatory  was  extended 
and  interesting  in  the  extreme.  It  was  just  such  a 
place  as  the  stranger  should  always  seek  in  order  to 


PANORAMA. 


121 


receive  correct  impressions  of  the  locality  and  environs 
of  the  city.  His  gaze  from  such  an  elevation  will  not 
fail  to  rest  with  interest  upon  the  broad  bay  of  Per- 
nambuco, stretching  with  a moderate,  but  regular  in- 
curvation of  the  coast,  between  the  promontory  of 
Olinda  and  Cape  St.  Augustine,  thirty  miles  below. 
This  bay  is  generally  adorned  with  a great  number  of 
jangadas,  which,  with  their  broad  latine  sails,  make  no 
mean  appearance.  Besides  the  commerce  of  the  port 
itself,  vessels  often  appear  in  the  offing  bound  on  dis- 
tant voyages,  both  north  and  south.  No  port  is  more 
easy  of  access.  A vessel  bound  to  either  the  Indian 
or  the  Pacific*  Ocean,  or  on  her  passage  homeward  to 
either  the  United  States  or  Europe,  may,  with  but  a 
slight  deviation  from  her  best  course,  put  into  Per- 
nambuco. She  may  come  to  an  anchor  in  the  Lameirao 
or  outer  harbor,  and  hold  communication  with  the 
shore,  either  to  obtain  advices  or  refreshments,  and 
resume  her  voyage  at  pleasure,  without  becoming  sub- 
ject to  port  charges.  This  is  very  convenient  for 
whaling  ships  and  south  sea  traders,  which  accordingly 
make  this  port  a great  rendezvous.  In  order  to  dis- 
charge or  receive  cargo,  they  are  required  to  come 
within  the  reef,  and  to  conform  to  usual  port  regu- 
lations. 

Men  of  war  seldom  remain  long  here.  None  of 
large  draught  can  pass  the  bar,  and  those  that  can  are 
required,  probably  in  view  of  the  danger  of  accidents 
when  so  close  to  the  city,  to  deposit  their  powder  at 
the  fort.  Few  naval  commanders  are  willing  to  yield 
to  such  a requirement,  while,  at  the  same  time,  their 
berth  in  the  Lameirao  cannot  be  relied  on  for  either 
quietness  or  safety.  The  powerful  winds,  and  heavy 
Vol.  II.— 16  L 


122 


PERNAMBUCO  AND  OL1NDA. 


roll  of  the  sea,  are  frequently  sufficient  to  part  the 
strongest  cables.  These  are  sufficient  reasons  why 
Pernambuco  is  not  a favorite  naval  station  either  for 
Brazil  or  foreign  nations.  The  commercial  shipping 
is  under  full  view  from  the  observatory,  yet  it  is  too 
near  at  hand,  and  too  densely  crowded  together,  to 
make  an  imposing  appearance. 

Olinda,  seen  from  this  distance,  must  attract  the 
attention  and  the  admiration  of  every  one.  Of  this 
city,  set  upon  a hill,  one  is  at  a loss  whether  to  admire 
most  the  whitened  houses  and  massive  temples,  or  the 
luxuriant  foliage  interspersed  amongst  them,  and  in 
which  those  edifices  on  the  hill-side  seem  to  be  partially 
buried.  From  this  point  a line  of  highlands  sweeps 
inward  with  a tolerably  regular  arc,  terminating  at 
Cape  St.  Augustine,  and  forming  a semilunar  recon- 
cave, analogous  to  that  of  Bahia.  The  entire  summit 
of  these  highlands  is  crowned  with  green  forests  and 
foliage.  Indeed,  from  the  outermost  range  of  vision 
to  the  very  precincts  of  the  city,  throughout  the  ex- 
tended plain,  circumscribed  by  five-sixths  of  the  ima- 
gined arc,  scarcely  an  opening  appears  to  the  eye, 
although  in  fact  the  country  overlooked  is  populous 
and  cultivated.  Numbers  of  buildings  also,  within  the 
suburbs  of  the  city,  are  overtowered,  and  wholly  or 
partially  hid  by  lofty  palms,  mangueiras,  cajueiros,  and 
other  trees.  The  interval  between  Recife  and  Olinda 
is  in  striking  contrast  to  this  appearance.  It  is  a per- 
fectly barren  bank  of  sand,  a narrow  beach,  upon  one 
side  of  which  the  ocean  breaks,  while,  on  the  other 
side,  only  a few  rods  distant  and  nearly  parallel,  runs 
a branch  of  the  Beberibe  river.  This  stream  is  navi- 
gable to  boats  as  far  as  Olinda,  and  forms  the  prin- 


REMARKABLE  BANK  OF  ROCKS.  123 

cipal  channel  of  communication  with  that  place,  al- 
though the  beach  may  be  considered  a species  of 
turnpike. 

At  a distance,  varying  from  one-fourth  to  half  a mile 
from  the  shore,  runs  the  bank  of  rocks  already  men- 
tioned as  extending  along  the  greater  portion  of  the 
northern  coast  of  Brazil.  Its  top  is  scarcely  visible  at 
high  tide,  being  covered  with  the  surf,  which  dashes 
over  it  in  sheets  of  foam.  At  low  water  it  is  left  dry, 
and  stands  like  an  artificial  wall,  with  a surface  suffi- 
ciently even  to  form  a beautiful  promenade  in  the  very 
midst  of  the  sea.  This  natural  parapet  is  approached 
by  the  aid  of  boats.  It  is  found  to  be  from  two  to  five 
rods  in  thickness.  Its  edges  are  a little  worn  and 
fractured,  but  both  its  sides  are  perpendicular  to  a 
great  depth.  The  rock,  in  its  external  appearance,  is 
of  a dark  brown  color.  When  broken,  it  is  found  to  be 
composed  of  a very  hard  species  of  sandstone  of  a yel- 
low complexion,  in  which  numerous  bivalves  are  em- 
bedded in  a state  of  complete  preservation.  Various 
species  of  small  sea-shells  may  be  collected  in  the  water- 
worn  cavities  of  the  surface.  At  several  points  deep 
winding  fissures  extend  through  a portion  of  the  reef, 
but  in  general  its  appearance  is  quite  regular,  much 
more  so  doubtless  than  any  artificial  wall  could  be  after 
hundreds  of  years’  exposure  to  the  wearing  of  the  ocean 
waves.  The  abrupt  opening  in  this  reef,  by  which  an 
entrance  is  offered  to  vessels,  is  scarcely  less  remark- 
able than  the  protection  which  is  secured  to  them 
when  once  behind  this  rocky  bulwark. 

Opposite  the  northern  extremity  of  the  city,  as 
though  a breach  had  been  artificially  cut,  the  rock 
opens,  leaving  a passage  of  sufficient  depth  and  width 


124 


FORT  ON  THE  REEF. 


to  admit  ships  of  sixteen  feet  draught,  at  high  water. 
Great  skill  is  requisite,  however,  to  conduct  them  safe- 
ly in ; for  no  sooner  have  they  passed  the  reef  than  it 
becomes  necessary  to  tack  ship,  and  keep  close  under 
the  lee  of  the  rock,  in  order  to  avoid  the  danger  of 
running  aground. 

Close  to  this  opening,  and  on  the  extremity  of  the 
reef,  stands  the  fort,  built  at  an  early  day  by  the  Dutch. 
Its  foundations  were  admirably  laid,  being  composed 
of  long  blocks  of  stone  imported  from  Europe,  hewed 
square.  They  were  laid  lengthwise  to  the  sea,  and 
then  bound  together  by  heavy  bands  of  iron.  A wall 
of  the  same  nature  extends  from  the  base  of  the  forti- 
fication to  the  body  of  the  reef.  This  wall  appears  to 
have  become  perfectly  solidified,  and  in  fact  augmented 
by  a slight  crust  of  accumulating  petrifaction.  This 
circumstance  corroborates  the  idea  that  the  rock,  on 
the  whole,  may  be  increasing,  like  the  coral  reefs  of 
the  South  Sea  Islands. 

In  treading  on  a spot  like  this,  the  imagination 
knows  no  bounds.  The  mind  naturally  reverts  to  the 
w'alls  of  ancient  and  once  powerful  cities,  now  fallen 
and  mingled  with  the  dust.  Man  made  them — and,  like 
himself,  they  have  turned  hack  to  the  dust  from  which 
they  were  taken.  Yet  here  is  a wall  made  without 
hands,  against  which  the  mighty  swell  of  the  Atlantic 
has  been  breaking  for  centuries,  and  yet  the  rock  has 
grown  rather  than  diminished.  Under  the  protection 
of  such  a bound,  which  the  Almighty  hath  set,  man 
may  take  shelter  and  secure  an  asylum  from  the 
tempest.  This  reef,  moreover,  furnishes  a sure  foun- 
dation on  which  human  art  may  enlarge  almost  w ith- 
out limit.  Perhaps  the  day  will  come  when  it  shall 


DISTRICT  OF  THE  RECIFE. 


125 


be  surmounted  by  a line  of  warehouses,  if  not  of 
palaces ! 

The  district  of  S.  Pedro,  frequently  called  that  of 
the  Recife,  is  not  large.  Its  buildings  are  most  of 
them  ancient  in  their  appearance;  they  exhibit  the 
old  Dutch  style  of  architecture,  and  many  of  them 
retain  their  latticed  balconies,  or  gelouzias.  These  ge- 
louzias  were  common  at  Rio  de  Janeiro  at  the  period 
of  Don  John’s  arrival.  But  that  monarch,  dreading 
the  use  that  might  be  made  of  them,  as  places  of  con- 
cealment for  assassins,  ordered  them  to  be  pulled  down, 
and  they  are  now  rarely  seen  in  the  metropolis. 

The  principal  street  of  the  Recife  is  Rua  da  Cruz. 
At  its  northern  extremity,  towards  the  arsenal  da  Ma- 
rinha,  it  is  wide,  and  imposing  in  its  aspect.  Towards 
the  other  end,  although  flanked  by  high  houses,  it  be- 
comes very  narrow,  like  most  of  the  other  streets  by 
which  it  is  intersected.  A single  bridge  connects  this 
portion  of  the  city  with  S.  Antonio,  the  middle  district. 
This  bridge  across  the  Beberibe  is  more  modern  than 
the  one  described  by  former  travelers  as  having  a row 
of  shops  on  either  side.  That  having  been  broken 
down  in  the  revolution  of  1824,  was  rebuilt  in  a dif- 
ferent style.  It  has  no  covering,  but  is  flanked  on 
either  side,  and  in  the  middle,  by  rows  of  seats,  which 
furnish  a favorite  resting-place  to  throngs  of  persons 
who  walk  out  of  evenings  to  enjoy  cool  air  and  refresh- 
ing breezes.  On  the  side  towards  the  sea  vessels 
anchor  near  by,  though  they  do  not  pass  above  this 
bridge.  At  either  end  stands  an  archway,  built  of 
brick.  These  arches  are  disconnected  with  the  bridge, 
although  they  span  the  street  leading  to  and  from  it. 
The  principal  object  of  their  construction  seems  to 

l 2 


126 


SAN  ANTONIO. 


have  been  to  furnish  a prominent  location  for  certain 
shrines  and  images.  These  arches  survived  the  de- 
struction of  the  old  bridge,  doubtless  on  account  of  the 
religious  purposes  to  which  they  are  devoted.  That, 
on  the  side  of  the  Recife  is  called  the  Capellinha  of 
Nossa  Senhora.  It  is  entered  by  a staircase  on  the 
right,  and  has  a sacristia  (vestry)  and  mass-room.  All 
who  pass  underneath  may  see,  through  a large  win- 
dow, a gaily  ornamented  altar,  surmounted  by  the  prin- 
cipal image,  at  the  same  time  reading,  in  large  letters, 
ELECTA  UT  SOL.  PULCHRA  UT  LUA. 

ANNO,  1785. 

The  passage  beneath  is  narrow,  even  for  a single 
carriage — yet  it  is  occupied  throughout  the  day  with 
numerous  negresses,  exposing  their  taboleiras  of  doces 
for  sale,  and  frequently  at  night  with  persons  stretch- 
ed out  to  sleep. 

The  arch  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river  also  sup- 
ports a shrine,  and  exhibits  images,  but  it  is  of  smaller 
dimensions,  and  is  only  accessible  by  means  of  a lad- 
der. Candles  are  seen  blazing  before  these  images 
every  night.  The  columns  of  the  arch  last  referred  to 
are  loaded  with  inscriptions;  but  such  was  the  perish- 
ing nature  of  the  stone  upon  which  they  were  carved, 
and  such  the  Vandal  style  in  which  the  letters  had 
been  indiscriminately  smeared  with  paint,  that  the 
only  sentence  plainly  legible  was — 

Domine  salrnm  fac  Regent  nostrum. 

The  other  inscriptions,  being  in  smaller  characters, 
would  hardly  be  noticed  to  exist  without  a special 
scrutiny  in  search  of  them. 

S.  Antonio  is  the  finest  part  of  Pernambuco,  when 
considered  as  a city.  It  contains  the  palace  and  military 


BOA  VISTA. 


127 


arsenal,  in  front  of  which  a wall  has  recently  been 
extended  along  the  river’s  bank.  Just  above  the 
water’s  edge  has  been  placed  a row  of  green  painted 
seats,  for  the  accommodation  of  the  public.  These 
are  inviting,  mornings  and  evenings,  although  in  the 
absence  of  shade  trees  the  rays  of  the  sun,  pouring 
upon  the  turfless  sand,  render  the  heat  intolerable 
throughout  the  day. 

The  principal  streets  of  this  section  of  the  city,  toge- 
ther with  an  open  square  used  as  a market-place,  are 
spacious  and  elegant.  The  bridge  crossing  the  other 
river  is  longer  and  more  expensive  than  the  one  just 
described,  although  the  depth  of  the  stream  beneath 
is  not  so'great.  On  the  southern  or  south-western 
bank  of  this  river  stands  the  British  chapel,  in  a very 
suitable  and  convenient  location.  That  edifice  is  built 
in  modern  style.  It  is  generally  well  attended  by  the 
English  residents,  on  Sabbath  days,  both  morning  and 
evening.  Boa  Vista  is  very  extensive,  and  is  chiefly 
occupied  by  residences  and  country  seats.  A few 
large  buildings  stand  near  the  river,  and,  like  most  of 
those  in  the  other  sections  of  the  town,  are  devoted  in 
part  to  commercial  purposes.  Beyond  these,  the 
houses  are  generally  low,  but  large  upon  the  ground, 
and  surrounded  by  gardens,  here  denominated  sitios. 
The  streets  are  unpaved,  and  unhappily  suffered  to 
remain  in  a most  wretched  condition. 

Notwithstanding  the  beauties  of  nature,  and  the 
motives  to  cleanliness  in  such  a climate,  yet  some  of 
the  streets  and  lanes  in  these  suburbs  will  even  rival 
the  lower  town  of  Bahia  for  filth  and  nausea.  The 
roads  too  are  shocking,  on  account  of  pools  of  stand- 
ing water,  which,  during  the  rainy  season,  do  not  allow 


128 


THER  SUBURBS. 


the  pedestrian  to  pass,  unless  by  fording.  Even  the 
rider  on  horseback  may  often  thank  his  stars  for  the 
chance  of  escaping  to  a half-drowned  side-walk,  to 
seek  safety  for  his  animal,  and  to  avoid  the  exposure 
of  his  dress  and  person.  This  state  of  things  is  en- 
tirely owing  to  a censurable  neglect  and  want  of  enter- 
prise ; as  the  soil  is  sandy  and  there  exists  every  faci- 
lity for  preserving  dry  roads. 

The  suburbs  of  Pernambuco,  in  this  direction,  are 
varied  in  scenery  and  exceedingly  pleasant,  notwith- 
standing such  neglect  of  the  streets.  Every  particular 
section  has  a distinct  name,  and  some  special  beauties 
to  commend  it  to  the  admiration  of  its  inhabitants.  As 
I cannot  here  enter  into  detail,  I must  content  myself 
with  the  bare  enumeration  of  those  places  associated 
in  my  own  mind  with  the  most  pleasant  recollections. 

Passing  through  Boa  Vista,  towards  the  right,  you 
may  visit  Mondego,  Solidade,  Manguinho,  Ponte  de 
Uchoa,  and  beyond  this,  passing  up  the  river’s  bank  a 
league  and  a half,  the  country  village  of  Beberibe. 
Manguinho  was  the  residence  of  Rev.  Mr.  Austin,  pas- 
tor of  the  English  congregation,  in  the  society  of  whom, 
together  with  his  interesting  family,  I spent  many  plea- 
sant hours.  I rode  one  morning,  in  his  company,  to 
the  village  just  mentioned,  which  was  a place  of  con- 
siderable importance  in  the  time  of  the  Dutch  wars. 
The  road  was  sandy,  but  part  of  the  way  well  shaded. 
We  found  the  ancient  houses  of  the  place  much  dila- 
pidated, and  but  few  people  were  seen.  We  had  some 
conversation  with  the  magistrate  of  the  village,  and 
presented  him  with  a quantity  of  tracts.  Monteiro  and 
Poco  da  Panclla  were  the  names  of  other  places  we 
visited  in  that  direction. 


STONE  BRIDGE. 


129 


Another  morning  we  proceeded  across  the  Magda- 
lena bridge,  in  the  direction  of  Varzea.  After  having 
pursued,  for  a league  or  more,  a fine  new  road  which 
exhibited  on  either  hand  splendid  fields  of  sugar-cane, 
and  a fine  open  view  of  the  country,  we  diverged  to 
the  right  by  a private  road,  and  after  visiting  the 
Engenho  da  Torre,  crossed  the  river  at  the  Ponte  de 
Uchoa.  As  there  was  no  bridge  we  crossed  the  stream 
in  a canoe,  leading  our  horses  by  the  reins,  to  wade  or 
swim  as  the  depth  might  require. 

The  hedges  in  the  environs  of  Pernambuco  are  simi- 
lar to  those  at  Rio,  although  generally  more  rank  ir. 
growth.  Many  of  the  houses  exhibit  an  expensive, 
and  at  the  same  time  tasteful,  style  of  construction.  I 
was  pointed  to  one,  in  the  veranda  of  which  was  ar- 
ranged a collection  of  statues.  The  owner  being  a 
wealthy  and  notorious  slave-dealer,  some  wag,  a few 
years  since,  thinking  either  to  oblige  or  to  vex  him, 
crept  in  by  night  and  supplied  him  with  a cargo  of  new 
negroes,  by  painting  all  the  marble  faces  black. 

Magdalena,  on  the  left  of  Boa  Vista,  is  another  fa- 
vorite section  of  the  town.  An  excellent  stone  bridge 
across  the  river  leads  into  it.  The  following  distich, 
cut  in  a stone  column  at  one  end,  informs  the  foot  tra- 
veler that  he  may  cross  free,  although  it  by  no  means 
speaks  to  either  horses  or  carriages. 

Do  Augusto,  o poderozo  brago 
Te  franquea  urn  livre  passo. 

In  this  part  of  the  city  the  president  of  the  province, 
at  present  the  Baron  of  Boa  Vista,  had  his  residence, 
and  several  fine  dwellings  were  in  the  process  of 
erection. 


Vol.  II.— 17 


130 


THE  FESTAS. 


This  region  has  a very  tasteful  appearance,  and  ac- 
cording to  the  praises  bestowed  on  it  by  a Brazilian 
friend  in  whose  company  I first  passed  through  it,  is 
excessively  enchanting  during  the  holidays.  Holidays, 
according  to  the  ideas  of  many  Brazilians,  are  those 
to  which  all  other  days  are  subsidiary.  It  is  pelo  tem- 
po das  festas  that  nature  reserves  her  choicest  fruits 
and  her  most  splendid  flowers.  The  most  glowing 
anticipations  of  both  old  and  young  center  in  the  festas. 
To  them  the  income  of  great  and  small  is  freely  de- 
voted. The  rich  squander  their  abundance,  and  the 
poor  sometimes  sell  their  last  slave,  which  is  here  re- 
garded as  the  most  indispensable  of  all  possessions,  to 
purchase  gala  dresses,  ornaments,  and  sweetmeats  for 
the  festas.  Although  festas  occur  frequently  during 
the  whole  year,  yet  the  Christmas  holidays  especially 
must  be  given  up  to  pleasure,  and  in  connection  with 
them  industry  abandoned  for  a series  of  weeks.  To 
Brazilians  it  seems  as  providential  that  this  period 
occurs  in  the  season  of  extreme  heat,  as  it  doubtless 
does  to  many  in  the  northern  hemisphere,  that  the 
same  period  finds  them  with  short  days,  snug  fires, 
and  fine  sleighing.  There,  on  the  contrary,  every  thing 
in  nature  seems  to  invite  to  relaxation  and  indulgence. 
The  people  eagerly  embrace  the  opportunity,  and  saun- 
ter abroad  on  walks,  excursions,  and  country  visits. 


EXCURSION  TO  SUASUNA. 


131 


CHAPTER  YII. 

Excursion  to  Suasuna. — Original  Boundaries  of  the  Province. — Early 
History. — Dutch  Wars. — Revolution  of  1817-of  1824. — Manoel  Car- 
valho.— Confederation  of  the  Equator. — Recent  quiet  and  prosperity. 
— The  7th  of  September. 

It  was  my  good  fortune  to  bear  letters  of  introduc- 
tion to  some  distinguished  citizens  of  Pernambuco, 
one  of  whom  was  Senhor  Francisco  de  Paula  Caval- 
canti d’Albuquerque,  ex-president  of  the  province  and 
ex-minister  of  the  imperial  government.  The  town 
residence  of  this  gentleman  was  a princely  sitio  on  the 
outskirts  of  Boa  Vista.  The  buildings  of  Pombal,  as 
this  sitio  is  denominated,  are  of  great  extent,  antique 
in  their  appearance,  and  being  overlooked  by  a tower, 
remind  one  of  the  style  of  the  old  feudal  castles  of 
Europe. 

On  calling  at  Pombal,  I was  informed  that  the  ex- 
president was  spending  some  time  at  his  country-seat, 
the  Engenho  de  Suasuna,  about  four  leagues  distant. 
A friend  offered  to  accompany  me  thither.  Accord- 
ingly a fine  day  was  selected  for  the  ride  on  horseback. 

We  entered  the  country  by  passing  out  of  San  An- 
tonio, leaving  Boa  Vista  on  the  right.  A fine  aterrado, 
or  cast-up  road,  has  recently  been  constructed  in  that 
direction.  It  runs  for  some  distance  nearly  parallel 
with  the  sea-shore,  and  on  the  left  commands  a most 
splendid  view  of  the  Ilha  das  Nogueiras,  or,  as  the 
English  have  it,  Cocoa-nut  Island.  The  first  povoa- 
c;ao  (village)  is  at  the  Affogados  bridge,  leading  across 
a wide  stream  called  the  Tegipio.  It  was  impossible 


134 


ORIGINAL  BOUNDARIES. 


On  the  right  wing  of  the  mansion  were  the  saw-mill, 
sugar-mill,  and  distillery.  The  machinery  of  the  two 
former  was  moved  by  water.  On  the  left  were  quar- 
ters for  slaves,  a blacksmith’s  shop,  carpenter’s  shop, 
and  barns. 

As  our  arrangements  had  been  to  return  the  same 
day,  we  were  gratified  to  learn  that  his  excellency 
would  accompany  us.  He  led  us  by  a private  road 
through  his  own  and  neighboring  plantations,  along 
which,  some  of  the  way,  stalks  of  the  mandioca  and 
sugar-cane  towered  proudly  over  our  heads.  As  we 
had  to  ford  several  streams,  the  outriders  of  his  excel- 
lency rendered  great  service  to  us  and  to  him  by  pre- 
ceding us,  to  try  the  depth  of  the  water.  This  ride 
was  rendered  doubly  interesting  by  the  agreeable  so- 
ciety of  Senhor  Cavalcanti,  and  by  the  lovely  character 
of  the  scenery  through  which  we  passed. 

The  original  captaincy  of  Pernambuco  reached  to 
the  river  S.  Francisco  on  the  south,  and  extended  far- 
ther in  every  direction  than  does  the  present  province. 
The  history  of  this  section  of  Brazil  is  one  of  varied 
incident.  As  early  as  1530,  the  French  established 
themselves  on  the  coast,  and  commenced  trading  with 
the  Indians.  They  were  expelled  by  Duarte  Coelho, 
who  wras  constituted  donatary  of  Pernambuco,  as  a 
reward  for  distinguished  services  in  India.  The  abo- 
riginal inhabitants  wrere,  for  many  years,  a great 
scourge  to  the  European  settlers. 

In  1595,  the  Recife  was  piratically  captured  and 
sacked  by  James  Lancaster,  commander  of  three  Eng- 
lish vessels,  fitted  out  with  no  better  motives,  though 
with  more  discretion,  than  the  expedition  of  Cavendish, 
whose  disastrous  termination  has  been  already  noticed. 


EARLY  HISTORY. 


135 


The  year  1629  witnessed  the  commencement  of  the 
Dutch  wars  on  the  Brazilian  coast.  To  a narration 
of  the  events  connected  with  these  struggles  for  the 
future  possession  of  the  country,  Mr.  Southey  devotes 
about  three  hundred  and  fifty  quarto  pages.  I shall 
be  obliged  to  condense  the  present  notice  of  them  into 
a less  number  of  lines.  The  original  attack,  on  the 
part  of  the  Dutch,  grew  out  of  purely  mercenary  mo- 
tives. It  was  planned  and  executed  under  the  auspices 
of  the  celebrated  West  India  Company.  Proving  suc- 
cessful at  first,  the  Hollanders  did  not  content  them- 
selves with  plundering  the  inhabitants,  but  determined 
to  make  the  very  soil  their  own.  Their  inroads  were 
manfully  resisted  by  the  Portuguese,  and  the  war,  at 
different  times,  extended  along  the  whole  coast  from 
Bahia  to  Maranham. 

In  1636,  Mauritz,  Count  of  Nassau,  was  sent  out  to 
take  command  of  the  troops,  and  to  govern  the  new 
empire.  Under  his  direction  active  measures  were  set 
on  foot ; forts,  cities,  and  palaces  were  built,  and  the 
country  was  explored  in  search  of  mines.  Agriculture 
was  undertaken  with  a strong  hand,  and  it  is  easy  to 
imagine  what  changes  would  hav  e been  introduced  into 
those  fertile  regions  by  the  industrious  Hollanders,  had 
not  the  fate  of  war  decided  against  them.  In  the  low 
grounds,  the  marshes  and  the  streams  that  surround 
the  city  of  Pernambuco,  they  would  have  especially 
gloried. 

But  the  Portuguese  and  Brazilians,  under  their  dis- 
tinguished leaders,  Camarao,*  Henrique  Diaz,  Souto, 
and  Joao  Fernandes  Yieyra,  kept  up  such  incessant 
and  effectual  attacks  upon  their  settlements,  as  to 


* Felipe  Camarao  was  an  Indian,  and  Henrique  Diaz  was  a negro. 


136 


DUTCH  WARS. 


cause  them  ever  and  anon  to  rally  their  forces  with  the 
revengeful  determination  of  exterminating  the  enemy. 
But  the  enemy  was  either  not  to  be  found,  or  he  was 
lying  in  ambush  to  do  them  a greater  injury  than 
could  possibly  be  effected  while  they  remained  in  their 
forts  and  camps.  Finally,  at  the  end  of  twenty-four 
years’  unceasing  warfare,  the  Dutch  found  themselves 
less  able  to  maintain  their  position  than  when  they 
first  gained  it.  The  decisive  battle  of  the  Guararapes, 
a narrow  pass  in  a range  of  hills  about  four  leagues 
south  of  the  Recife,  went  fearfully  against  them,  and 
early  in  the  year  1654  they  capitulated,  and  retired 
from  the  country. 

The  Portuguese  having  again  assumed  the  govern- 
ment, the  history  of  Pernambuco  remained,  for  a long 
period,  identified  with  that  of  the  country  at  large. 
The  jealousies,  intrigues,  and  contentions  that  grew 
out  of  the  rivalry  between  the  patricians  of  Olinda 
and  the  plebians  of  the  Recife,  which  raged  about 
the  year  1710,  hardly  deserve  to  be  noticed  as  an  ex- 
ception. 

After  a period  of  tranquillity  extending  through  an 
hundred  and  fifty  years,  in  which  Brazil  seemed  not 
to  dream  of  an  emancipation  from  colonial  dependence, 
it  was  at  Pernambuco  that  the  first  struggle  for  free- 
dom was  made.  It  was  a poorly  organized  and  an 
ill-fated  scheme,  and  has  received  but  little  attention 
from  either  Brazilian  or  foreign  writers ; yet,  doubt- 
less, it  deserves  to  be  regarded  as  the  precursor  of  the 
revolution  of  independence,  which  took  place  a few 
years  after.  As  early  as  1814,  the  old  order  of  things 
began  to  be  disturbed.  The  rights  of  nations  were 
discussed  in  the  masonic  lodges.  Brazilian  dinners 


REVOLUTION  OF  1817. 


137 


were  given,  from  which  the  flour  and  wines  of  Europe 
were  excluded.  The  mandioca,  with  other  produc- 
tions and  fruits  of  the  country,  were  served  up  with 
ostentation,  and  toasts  were  given  defying  the  tyranny 
of  kings,  and  menacing  the  European  Portuguese.  In 
1817,  trouble  was  anticipated  from  these  movements 
by  some  who  reported  them  to  the  governor  as  sedi- 
tious. That  officer  manifested  but  little  energy  or 
courage  in  preventing  an  outbreak. 

Finally,  on  the  5th  of  March,  he  called  a council,  in 
which  it  was  resolved  to  arrest  seventy  persons  sup- 
posed to  be  conspirators.  The  third  person  arrested, 
an  officer  in  the  army,  plunged  his  sword  to  the  heart 
of  the  general  who  had  ordered  his  imprisonment. 
This  first  act  of  bloodshed  was  the  signal  for  revolu- 
tion. The  military  rushed  to  arms  in  favor  of  the 
conspirators,  and  in  a short  time  had  possession  of  S. 
Antonio.  The  governor  took  refuge  in  the  fortress  of 
Brum,  and  ordered  the  bridge  to  be  cut  down  for  the 
preservation  of  Recife.  This  was  prevented,  and  soon 
that  portion  of  the  city  was  in  the  hands  of  the  revo- 
lutionists. Their  watch  word  was  “Viva  a patria,  mata 
os  marinheiros,” — “Hurrah  for  the  country,  but  kill 
the  sailors,”  meaning  the  Portuguese.  Notwithstanding 
this  bloody  motto,  their  standard  was  the  white  flag. 
Under  the  temporary  success  which  crowned  their 
efforts,  the  governor  was  summoned  to  surrender,  and, 
after  yielding  to  a humiliating  capitulation,  was  im- 
mediately sent  off  to  Rio  de  Janeiro.  A provisional 
government  of  five  persons  was  now  organized,  at  the 
head  of  which  was  a learned  ecclesiastic  named  Joam 
Ribeiro.  This  government  issued  various  proclama- 
tions, which  called  upon  the  people  to  shako  off  the 
Vol.  II.— 18  m 2 


138 


REVOLUTION  SUPPRESSED. 


yoke  of  a corrupt  and  expensive  court,  where  every 
thing  was  done  for  the  advantage  of  favorites,  and 
nothing  for  the  good  of  the  nation.  An  administra- 
tion more  national,  and  less  expensive,  was  promised. 
The  ancient  formula  of  speech  was  proscribed  as 
savoring  of  servility.  The  significant  vos , (you,)  was 
to  be  adopted  instead  of  the  formal  vossa  merce,  (your 
goodness.)  Patriota  should  also  take  the  place  of 
Senhor. 

The  armorial  bearings  of  Portugal  appeared  no 
more  as  official  ornaments,  and  the  portraits  of  kings 
were  no  longer  exhibited  for  the  veneration  of  the  peo- 
ple. A press  was  now,  for  the  first  time,  procured 
for  the  province.  In  the  course  of  a month  things 
began  to  appear  settled  and  prosperous.  Alagoas,  then 
a district  of  Pernambuco,  Parahiba,  and  Rio  Grande 
do  Norte,  were  added  to  the  coalition,  and  it  was  anti- 
cipated that  Ceara,  Maranham,  and  possibly  Bahia, 
would  also  join  it. 

But  the  event  soon  disappointed  these  sanguine  ex- 
pectations. Provisions  and  arms  were  in  demand,  but 
before  they  could  be  procured  the  Count  dos  Arcos, 
governor  of  Bahia,  organized  a battalion  of  troops  to 
attack  Pernambuco  by  land,  and  the  government  sent 
an  armament  to  invest  the  port  by  sea.  Thus,  before 
the  end  of  May,  this  revolution  was  suppressed,  with- 
out any  great  loss  of  life.  Two  of  the  leaders  having 
been  captured  were  publicly  executed,  and  the  unfor- 
tunate abbot  Ribeiro,  committed  suicide.  To  the  eter- 
nal disgrace  of  the  Portuguese,  the  bloody  head  of  this 
man  was  paraded  through  the  streets  on  the  end  of  a 
pike. 

Seven  years  afterwards  the  declaration  of  Brazilian 


MANOEL  CARVALHO. 


139 


independence,  under  Don  Pedro,  found  an  immediate 
and  cordial  response  at  Pernambuco.  The  Portuguese 
were  expelled  without  any  aid  from  abroad,  and  the 
constitutional  government  was  immediately  established 
and  administered  with  success.  This  circumstance 
gave  fresh  encouragement  to  the  independent  spirit 
which  the  Pernambucans  had  proudly  cherished  since 
the  days  when  their  ancestors  vanquished  the  Dutch. 
They  soon  became  dissatisfied  with  the  policy  of  Don 
Pedro,  and  it  was  declared  in  their  public  prints,  that 
they  might  as  well  have  remained  a colony  of  Portugal 
as  to  become  a colony  of  Rio  de  Janeiro. 

At  this  juncture  a plan  was  set  on  foot  for  the  for- 
mation of  a new  republic  in  the  northern  part  of  Brazil. 
At  the  head  of  an  association  formed  for  this  object 
was  Manoel  Carvalho  Paes  de  Andrada,  the  elected 
president  of  the  province.  He  was  a young  man  of 
winning  manners,  an  ardent  temperament,  and  of  con- 
siderable popularity.  His  democratic  principles  being 
known,  he  was  suspected  by  the  royalist  administra- 
tion, and  accordingly  a new  president,  nominated  by 
the  Emperor,  was  gent  up  from  the  metropolis  to  take 
his  place.  But  the  inhabitants  of  Pernambuco,  con- 
vened in  general  assembly,  thrice  refused  to  acknow- 
ledge any  authority  save  that  of  the  person  whom  they 
had  elected. 

The  port  was  consequently  blockaded  for  three 
months,  but  with  little  effect.  On  the  20th  of  March, 
1824,  Carvalho  was  unexpectedly  arrested,  through  the 
defection  of  two  of  his  officers.  The  garrison  of  Fort 
de  Brum,  where  he  was  conveyed  a prisoner,  revolted 
in  his  favor.  All  the  troops,  with  the  exception  of  those 
implicated  in  his  arrest,  also  declared  in  behalf  of  the 


140 


DON  PEDRO  DENOUNCED. 


popular  cause;  and,  before  many  hours  bad  elapsed, 
Carvalho  was  again  reinstated  in  the  presidency,  and 
the  refractory  battalion  sent  off  to  Barra  Grande,  a 
small  port  in  the  province  of  Alagoas.  The  blockade 
was  now  withdrawn  for  a time. 

Carvalho’s  administration  now  for  a time  seemed 
to  be  an  integral  portion  of  the  imperial  government. 
Meanwhile  it  proceeded  to  engage  a small  naval  force, 
and  was  only  waiting  a favorable  moment  for  the  more 
complete  execution  of  its  treacherous  plans.  About 
this  juncture  an  imperial  manifesto  wTas  received, 
stating  that  a squadron  was  now  fitting  out  in  the 
Tagus,  for  the  invasion  of  Brazil;  and  that,  as  the 
Emperor  was  incompetent  to  protect  the  whole  coast, 
the  Pernambucans  would,  for  a time,  be  required  to 
rely  upon  themselves  for  means  of  defence. 

This  occasion  was  deemed,  by  Carvalho  and  his 
partisans,  a fit  one  for  carrying  the  projected  revolu- 
tion into  effect.  Proclamations  were  accordingly  issued 
by  the  president  on  the  2d  of  July,  denouncing  Don 
Pedro  as  a traitor,  whose  intention  it  was  to  abandon 
Brazil  to  the  Portuguese,  at  the  spme  time  calling  on 
the  various  provinces  of  the  north,  to  disclaim  the 
authority  of  the  imperial  government,  and  to  combine 
in  an  alliance  to  be  entitled  the  “ Confederation  of  the 
Equator.”  The  troops  w7ere  also  placed  under  arms, 
and  all  necessary  measures  were  taken  for  the  defence 
of  the  city.  A large  number  of  the  inhabitants  of 
Parahiba,  Rio  Grande  do  Norte,  and  Ceara,  subse- 
quently declared  in  favor  of  the  same  cause,  but  the 
movement  was  less  unanimous  than  had  been  antici- 
pated. 

Misled  by  the  enthusiasm  existing  in  the  city  of 


lord  cochrane’s  diplomacy.  141 

Pernambuco,  the  conspirators  had  expected  that  the 
whole  country  would  rise  in  arms  at  their  call.  But 
the  pacific  inhabitants  of  the  interior  were  too  indif- 
ferent to  such  schemes,  and  too  much  in  the  habit  of 
implicit  obedience,  to  be  at  all  ripe  for  the  project. 

Barretto,  afterwards  created  Marquis  de  Recife,  the 
proprietor  of  an  extensive  territory  near  Cape  St. 
Augustine,  took  up  arms  in  the  cause  of  the  Emperor; 
while  the  troops  who  had  before  arrested  Carvalho,  as 
well  as  a number  of  partisans,  rallied  round  his  stand- 
ard. Here  Carvalho  besieged  them  by  land,  and  at 
the  same  time  with  a small  naval  force  blockaded  them 
by  sea,  but  without  any  decided  results. 

Intelligence  of  these  proceedings  having  reached 
Rio  de  Janeiro,  measures  were  taken  to  arrest  them1. 
The  right  of  “ habeas  corpus,”  conceded  by  the  con- 
stitution, was  suspended  throughout  Pernambuco.  An- 
other president  was  appointed — a native  of  the  pro- 
vince. A squadron  was  fitted  out  under  Lord  Coch- 
rane, carrying  a division  of  twelve  hundred  men,  under 
General  Francisco  de  Lima.  The  soldiers  were  land- 
ed at  Maceio',  with  the  design  of  co-operating  with  the 
troops  of  Barretto,  while  his  lordship  proceeded  to 
blockade  the  city.  This  individual,  who  had  so  re- 
peatedly distinguished  himself  by  boldness  and  energy 
in  war,  now  resorted  to  the  milder  measures  of  diplo- 
macy. He  issued  repeated  proclamations,  stating  his 
persuasion  that  the  dissentions  now  agitating  Pernam- 
buco had  their  origin  in  erroneous  impressions  regard- 
ing the  events  which  had  taken  place  in  Rio  de  Janei- 
ro, and  he  volunteered  to  act  as  a mediator  between 
the  insurgents  and  the  Emperor.  He  recalled  to  their 
attention  the  distracted  state  of  the  Spanish  republics 


142 


BOMBARDMENT  OF  PERNAMBUCO. 


throughout  South  America,  and  he  finally  threatened 
to  increase  the  rigor  of  the  blockade;  to  destroy  their 
shipping,  and  by  sinking  vessels  in  the  mouth  of  the 
harbor,  to  block  up  all  entrance  into  the  port,  unless 
the  integrity  of  the  empire  were  again  acknowledged 
within  eight  days  from  the  date  of  his  first  proclama- 
tion. This  threat  failing  entirely  of  its  object,  Lord 
Cochrane  availed  himself  of  the  services  of  Mrs.  Gra- 
ham, known  as  authoress  of  the  “ Journal  of  a Voyage 
to  Brazil,”  who  happened  to  arrive  opportunely  as  a 
passenger  in  the  English  packet  from  Falmouth.  This 
lady  accepted  the  office  of  endeavoring  to  arrange  an 
interview  between  Cochrane  and  Carvalho  on  board 
a French  brig  of  war.  Failing  in  this,  she  was  next 
entrusted  with  terms  of  peace;  but  all  in  vain.  Car- 
valho replied  to  the  overtures  by  offering  the  admiral 
four  hundred  thousand  milreis  in  case  he  would  aban- 
don the  imperial  cause,  and  come  over  to  the  repub- 
licans. It  was  now  time  for  an  indignant  refusal,  and 
all  further  negotiations  were  broken  off. 

A schooner  was  fitted  out  to  bombard  the  city,  and 
the  inhabitants  of  the  Recife  began  to  withdraw  to  the 
interior  with  their  slaves  and  movable  property.  The 
schooner  commenced  throwing  her  shells  about  mid- 
night, on  the  28th  of  August,  but  with  so  little  effect 
that  she  was  soon  withdrawn.  Larger  vessels  dared 
not  approach  too  near  the  shore  or  the  reef.  About 
this  time  it  was  found  that  the  rocky  bottom  of  the 
Lameirao  had  possessed  itself  of  all  the  anchors,  save 
one,  of  the  admiral’s  flag  ship.  Thus  he  was  forced 
to  abandon  the  blockade. 

In  the  meantime  the  troops  of  General  Lima  form- 
ed a junction  with  those  of  llarretto.  The  forces  of 


FLIGHT  OF  CARVALHO. 


143 


* 

the  republicans  were  still  in  greater  numbers,  but  as 
they  were  far  behind  their  opponents  in  discipline, 
and  met  with  but  little  of  that  ardent  co-operation 
which  they  had  anticipated,  they  were  unable  to  oppose 
any  effectual  barrier  to  the  invading  force.  After  a 
succession  of  skirmishes,  terminating  in  every  instance 
to  the  advantage  of  the  imperial  army,  General  Lima 
finally  entered  Pernambuco  on  the  11th  of  September. 

Suffice  it  to  say,  that  Carvalho’s  cause  was  now 
lost,  and  he  found  himself  obliged  to  flee  in  the  night, 
and  take  refuge  on  board  the  British  corvette  Tweed. 

“ The  imperial  troops  had  expected  to  apprehend 
him  on  his  estate  in  Santa  Anna,  about  two  leagues 
from  the  capital — but  they  were  disappointed.  On 
arriving  there  they  found  his  mother  only,  and  she  was 
engaged  in  her  devotions.  The  private  chapel  was 
brilliantly  illuminated,  and  it  may  be  recorded  as  a 
trait  of  national  manners,  that  for  more  than  six 
months  she  had  burned  tapers  night  and  day,  before 
the  shrine  of  Our  Lady  of  Conception — to  whom  she 
had  also,  during  the  same  period,  directed  her  fervent 
but  fruitless  supplications,  for  the  success  of  the  cause 
in  which  her  son  was  engaged.” 

Only  three  of  the  individuals  connected  with  this 
insurrection  were  subsequently  executed.  Their  names 
were  Ratcliff,  Metrowich,  and  Loureiro,  persons  of  no 
great  prominence,  or  of  very  conclusive  guilt.  But  it 
was  thought  necessary  to  make  an  example  which 
should  be  a warning  to  any  who  might  be  disposed  to 
revive  the  project  of  an  “ Equatorial  Confederation.” 

Carvalho  absented  himself  from  the  country  till  the 
storm  was  over,  and  after  his  return  was  elected  a 
senator  of  the  empire,  which  office  he  still  retains. 


144 


CONSPIRACIES  SUPPRESSED. 


Soon  after  the  Emperor’s  abdication,  in  1831,  the 
quiet  of  Pernambuco  was  disturbed  by  a revolt  among 
the  troops.  On  the  14th  of  September,  about  a thou- 
sand soldiers  took  possession  of  the  city  and  plundered 
it.  On  the  16th  the  citizens  rallied,  aided  by  some 
troops  from  the  adjoining  country,  marched  into  the 
town,  and  routed  the  insurgents. 

Again  in  January,  1835,  about  two  hundred  troops, 
in  the  vicinity,  united  with  the  faction  of  the  cabanos, 
heretofore  mentioned,  and  attacked  the  city,  but  to  no 
purpose,  being  soon  dispersed  by  an  active  president. 
As  late  as  1842,  a secret  plot  against  the  government 
was  set  on  foot ; but  the  Baron  of  Boa  Vista,  in  his 
capacity  of  president  of  the  province,  obtained  infor- 
mation of  it  in  time  to  suppress  and  to  apprehend 
eight  or  ten  conspirators. 

None  of  these  recent  disorders  have  been  of  suffi- 
cient magnitude,  or  permanency,  to  interrupt  the  gene- 
ral prosperity  of  Pernambuco.  Few  provinces  of  the 
empire  have  made  greater  improvement,  or,  on  the 
whole,  have  shown  a more  consistent  attachment  to 
the  general  government.  There  is  a vast  difference, 
however,  between  the  enterprise  and  intelligence  that 
so  generally  appear  in  the  city  of  Pernambuco,  and 
the  condition  of  the  inhabitants  throughout  large  por- 
tions of  the  interior  of  the  province.  Schools  are  as 
yet  but  in  their  infancy,  and  the  means  of  communi- 
cation are  quite  inferior.  A large  party  of  Germans 
was  engaged  by  the  province  in  1839,  to  work  chiefly 
on  the  roads  and  bridges.  Their  situation,  however, 
was  rendered  very  unpleasant  by  the  sentiments  that 
prevailed  with  respect  to  free  labor,  and  the  manner 
in  which  they  consequently  were  treated,  being  fre- 


THE  SEVENTH  OP  SEPTEMBER.  145 

quently,  when  engaged  at  work,  taunted  and  ridiculed 
as  escravos  brancos,  white  slaves. 

The  government  palace  of  Pernambuco  is  the  an- 
cient college  of  the  Jesuits,  strangely  diverted  from  its 
original  design.  Until  recently  the  chapel  had  been 
reserved  for  religious  purposes,  but  on  passing  it  on 
one  of  my  morning  walks,  I observed  that  mechanics 
were  removing  the  gilt  work  preparatory  to  convert- 
ing it  into  a sala  de  cortejo. 

I was  present  in  that  city  on  the  7th  of  September, 
at  the  celebration  of  the  anniversary  of  Brazilian  inde- 
pendence. The  government  palace  was  thrown  open 
for  a beija  mao,  to  which  the  consuls  of  foreign  nations, 
and  other  persons  of  distinction,  were  invited,  in  order 
to  make  the  pomp  and  parade  of  the  day  the  most 
splendid  possible.  There  was,  at  the  same  time,  a fair 
display  of  the  military.  On  this  occasion  I was  im- 
pressed more  forcibly  than  ever  with  the  fact,  that 
none  of  the  public  ceremonies  of  the  country  seem  at 
all  calculated  to  improve  the  public  mind  or  morals. 
The  only  ambition  manifest,  runs  in  the  line  of  seeing 
and  being  seen.  Not  an  oration  is  delivered,  no  de- 
claration of  independence  is  read,  nor  is  there  a single 
exercise  introduced,  even  into  the  most  important  of 
the  national  festivals,  from  which  the  people  may  re- 
ceive instruction  in  the  nature  and  principles  of  civil 
liberty. 

Vol.  II— 19 


N 


146 


STATE  OF  RELIGION. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

State  of  Religion. — Church  of  San  Joz6. — Festas. — Novenas. — Sebas- 
tianists. — Enchanted  Kingdom  of  Piancd. — Slaughter  of  Innocents. 
— Fanaticism. — The  Bible  in  Pernambuco. — Zeal  of  a Padre  in  its 
distribution. — River  passage  to  Olinda. — Appearance  and  condition 
of  that  City. — Botanical  Garden. — Decay  of  Public  Edifices. — Pano- 
rama.— Melancholy  suggestions.  — Law  University. — The  Prison 
and  the  Palace. 

The  state  of  religion  at  Pernambuco  is  not  obvi- 
ously different  from  that  in  other  parts  of  the  empire. 
The  monasteries  are  in  low  repute,  having  at  present 
but  few  inmates.  The  hospicio  of  the  Barhadinhos, 
or  Italian  Capuchins,  has  been  converted  into  a found- 
ling hospital.  None  of  the  churches  are  remarkable 
for  their  beauty,  or  splendor  of  construction.  That  of 
Nossa  Senhora  da  Concei^ao  dos  militares  is  distin- 
guished for  a singular  painting  upon  its  walls,  designed 
to  represent  the  battle  of  the  Carapes,  and  to  comme- 
morate the  victory  which  was  then  obtained  over  the 
heretical  Hollanders. 

As  a means  of  conveying  to  the  reader  an  idea  of 
the  ordinary  arrangement  of  the  parish  churches,  I 
will  note  the  circumstance  of  my  visit  to  that  of  S. 
Joze,  situated  near  the  fort  Cinco  Pontas.  I had 
taken  an  early  walk  one  morning  to  examine  what 
might,  with  some  propriety,  be  denominated  the  ruins 
of  the  old  pentagonal  fortress,  and  on  my  return 
passed  by  the  church  mentioned.  The  sachristia  only 
was  open ; but  the  sacristao,  a sociable  old  mulatto, 
seemed  very  desirous  of  showing  me  the  temple  under 


CHURCH  OF  SAN  JOZE. 


147 


his  charge,  and  accordingly  ushered  me  into  it  through 
a side  door.  The  edifice  was  plain,  but  substantial  in 
its  appearance.  Its  ceiling  was  high.  The  area  with- 
in the  nave  was  entirely  open,  and  destitute  of  seats, 
or  fixtures  of  any  kind.  The  only  objects  of  especial 
interest  were  the  images.  Of  these  there  were  five. 
That  of  S.  Joze,  or  as  the  old  sexton  called  him,  the 
“ owner  of  the  house''  occupied  the  chief  altar,  at  the 
extremity,  opposite  the  front  door.  The  remaining 
were  arranged  on  opposite  sides  of  the  house,  in  the 
following  order,  which  indicates  the  rank  attributed  to 
them  severally. 

2.  Nossa  Senhora  do  Bom  Parto,  (Our  Lady  of  good 
Birth.) 

3.  Nossa  Senhora  das  Merces,  (Our  Lady  of  Mercy.) 

4.  Nosso  Senhor  Bom  Jesus,  (Our  Lord  the  good 
Jesus.) 

5.  Nosso  Senhor  Jesus  Preso,  (Our  Lord  Jesus  a 
Prisoner.) 

As  a compensation  for  his  politeness  to  me,  I put  in 
the  hands  of  the  sacristao  the  tracts  entitled  O Do- 
mingo, and  As  despedidas  d'um  viajante,  with  which  he 
seemed  as  well  satisfied  as  with  the  privilege  of  show- 
ing his  church. 

From  what  I saw'  of  religious  festivals  at  Pernam- 
buco, I judged  that  they  were  entered  into  with  greater 
spirit,  and  with  more  apparent  devotion,  on  the  part 
of  the  festaj adores,  than  at  Rio  de  Janeiro.  One  even- 
ing, accompanied  by  some  friends,  I visited  a church 
in  which  they  were  chanting  a novena  connected  with 
the  feast  of  Santa  Anna  mai  da  Mai  de  Deos.  The 
music  was  performed  chiefly  by  a choir  in  the  orches- 
tra, to  which  a priest,  standing  in  front  of  the  chief 


148 


NOVENAS. 


altar,  gave  the  responses  of  the  litany.  The  body  of 
the  church  was  nearly  filled  with  females,  some  of 
whom  joined  in  the  chant.  I confess  I could  discern 
but  little  melody  amongst  the  plentiful  discords  of  this 
occasion. 

I was  much  more  interested  the  following  night, 
when  returning  from  a ride  in  the  country  I suddenly 
came  to  a crowd  assembled  in  front  of  the  chapel  of 
the  Carmelite  convent.  As  many  as  one  hundred  and 
twenty  persons  were  kneeling  and  standing  on  the 
flagged  platform,  also  engaged  in  singinga  novena  be- 
fore an  image  of  the  Virgin,  which  looked  down  upon 
them  from  a lofty  niche  in  the  chapel’s  front.  The 
females  were  arranged  in  the  outer  portion  of  the 
group,  while  a knot  of  young  men  in  the  middle  offici- 
ated as  choristers.  They  had  no  light  save  that  of 
the  brilliant  moon,  which  threw  a peculiar  enchant- 
ment over  the  scene  as  the  shrill  voices  of  the  worship- 
ers rose  on  the  evening  air. 

Not  long  before  I visited  the  province,  scenes  had 
occurred  in  the  interior  of  Pernambuco,  which  gave  a 
melancholy  proof  that  fanaticism,  in  its  worst  features, 
is  not  confined  to  Protestant  countries.  The  follow- 
ing narrative,  which  I condense  from  official  docu- 
ments, may  challenge  a parallel  to  be  found  in  either 
history  or  mythology.  In  order  that  the  reader  may 
fully  understand  it,  I will  remind  him  that  there  pre- 
vails in  Portugal,  and  to  some  extent  in  Brazil,  a sect 
called  Sebastianists.  The  distinguishing  tenet  of  this 
sect  is  the  belief  that  Don  Sebastian,  the  king  of  Por- 
tugal, who,  in  1577,  undertook  an  expedition  against 
the  Moors  in  Africa,  and  who,  having  been  defeated, 
never  returned,  is  still  alive,  and  is  destined  yet  to 


SEBASTIANISTS. 


149 


make  his  re-appearance  on  earth.  Numberless  dreams 
and  prophecies,  together  with  the  interpretation  of 
marvellous  portents  confirming  this  idea,  have  been 
circulated  with  so  much  of  clerical  sanction,  that  many 
have  believed  the  senseless  whim.  Nor  have  there 
been  lacking  persons,  at  various  periods,  who  have 
undertaken  to  fulfill  the  prophecies,  and  to  prove  them- 
selves the  veritable  Don  Sebastian. 

Nevertheless  the  prime  point  of  faith  is,  that  he  will 
yet  come,  and  that  too,  as  each  believer  has  it,  in  his 
own  lifetime.  The  Portuguese  look  for  his  appear- 
ance at  Lisbon,  but  the  Brazilians  generally  think 
it  most  likely  that  he  will  first  revisit  his  own  city,  St. 
Sebastian. 

It  appears,  however,  that  a reckless  villain,  named 
Joao  Antonio,  fixed  upon  a remote  part  of  the  pro- 
vince of  Pernambuco,  near  Pianco,  in  the  Comarca  de 
Flores,  for  the  appearance  of  the  said  D.  Sebastian. 
The  place  designated  was  a dense  forest,  near  which 
were  known  to  be  two  acroceraunian  caverns.  This 
spot  the  impostor  said  was  an  enchanted  kingdom, 
which  was  about  to  be  disenchanted,  whereupon  Don 
Sebastian  would  immediately  appear  at  the  head  of 
a great  army,  with  glory,  and  with  power  to  confer 
wealth  and  happiness  upon  all  who  should  anticipate 
his  coming  by  associating  themselves  with  said  Joao 
Antonio. 

As  might  be  expected  he  found  followers,  who,  after 
awhile,  learned  that  the  imaginary  kingdom  was  to 
be  disenchanted  by  having  its  soil  sprinkled  with  the 
blood  of  one  hundred  innocent  children!  In  default  of 
a sufficient  number  of  children,  men  and  women  were 
to  be  immolated,  but  in  a few  days  they  would  all  rise 

N 2 


150  ENCHANTED  KINGDOM  OF  PIANCO. 

again,  and  become  possessed  of  the  riches  of  the 
world.  The  prophet  appears  to  have  lacked  the  cou- 
rage necessary  to  carry  out  his  bloody  scheme,  hut  he 
delegated  power  to  an  accomplice,  named  Joao  Fer- 
reira, who  assumed  the  title  of  “ his  Holiness,”  put  a 
wreath  of  rushes  upon  his  head,  and  required  the  pro- 
selytes to  kiss  his  toe,  on  pain  of  instant  death.  After 
other  deeds  too  horrible  to  describe,  he  commenced 
the  slaughter  of  human  beings.  Each  parent  wras 
required  to  bring  forward  one  or  two  of  his  children 
to  be  offered.  In  vain  did  the  prattling  babes  shriek 
and  beg  that  they  might  not  be  murdered.  The  un- 
natural parents  would  reply,  “ No,  my  child,  there  is 
no  remedy,”  and  forcibly  offer  them.  In  the  course 
of  two  days  he  had  thus,  in  cold  blood,  slain  twenty- 
one  adults  and  twenty  children,  when  a brother  of  the 
prophet,  becoming  jealous  of  “ his  Holiness,”  thrust 
him  through  and  assumed  his  power.  At  this  juncture 
some  one  ran  away,  and  apprised  the  civil  authorities 
of  the  dreadful  tragedy. 

Troops  were  called  out  who  hastened  to  the  spot, 
but  the  infatuated  Sebastianists  had  been  taught  not 
to  fear  any  thing,  but  that  should  an  attack  be  made 
upon  them  it  would  be  the  signal  for  the  restoration  of 
the  kingdom,  the  resurrection  of  their  dead,  and  the 
destruction  of  their  enemies.  Wherefore  on  seeing  the 
troops  approach  they  rushed  upon  them,  uttering  cries 
of  defiance,  attacking  those  who  had  come  to  their 
rescue,  and  actually  killing  five,  and  wounding  others, 
before  they  could  be  restrained.  Nor  did  they  submit 
until  twenty-nine  of  their  number,  including  three 
women,  had  actually  been  killed.  Women,  seeing  their 
husbands  dying  at  their  feet,  would  not  attempt  to 


THE  SCRIPTURES. 


151 


escape,  but  shouted  “ the  time  is  come ; viva,  viva, 
the  time  is  come!”  Of  those  that  survived  a few 
escaped  into  the  woods,  the  rest  were  taken  prisoners. 
It  was  found  that  the  victims  of  this  horrid  delusion 
had  not  even  buried  the  bodies  of  their  murdered  off- 
spring and  kinsmen,  so  confident  were  they  of  their 
immediate  restoration. 

I found  that  at  Pernambuco  some  efforts  had  already 
been  made  to  disseminate  the  Scriptures.  As  early  as 
1823  about  fifty  Portuguese  Testaments  had  been  gra- 
tuitously distributed  by  an  American  gentleman.  In 
1833  an  English  gentlemen  received  a small  consign- 
ment  of  Bibles.  This  individual,  to  save  himself  in- 
convenience, left  the  box  open  in  the  custom-house  for 
any  one  to  carry  away  the  books  at  pleasure.  But 
such  was  the  general  indifference  to  the  subject,  that 
considerable  time  elapsed  before  the  sacred  volumes 
were  all  taken.  In  1836,  Rev.  Mr.  A.  had  brought 
out  fifty  Bibles  and  a quantity  of  Testaments,  a por- 
tion of  which  he  had  disposed  of  by  gift  and  sale.  I 
found  this  gentleman  much  engrossed  in  his  own  pas- 
toral duties,  but  at  the  same  time  deeply  interested  for 
the  welfare  of  the  people  among  whom  he  resided.  His 
opinion  was,  that  there  never  had  been  a more  favor- 
able opportunity  than  the  present  for  the  introduction 
of  truth  and  of  a pure  worship  into  this  portion  of 
Brazil.  What  was  most  needed  in  view  of  this  object, 
was  a number  of  fearless  and  faithful  Brazilian 
preachers. 

Through  him,  I was  made  acquainted  with  a priest 
who  had  already  become  convinced  of  the  necessity  of 
some  new  measures  for  enlightening  the  people,  and 
who  had  recently  taken  an  active  interest  in  circulating 


152 


BRAZILIAN  PADRE. 


Bibles  and  tracts.  I met  with  this  padre  a few  days 
after  my  arrival  in  the  city.  He  came  into  the  house 
of  a friend  with  whom  I was  dining,  and  happening  to 
lay  his  hand  upon  some  of  the  new  tracts  which  I 
brought  along,  he  broke  forth  in  expressions  of  delight, 
saying  that  he  had  use  for  a quantity  of  these  publica- 
tions. In  addition  to  their  subject  matter,  he  was  par- 
ticularly pleased  with  their  severally  bearing  the 
imprint  of  Rio  de  Janeiro,  a circumstance  that  indi- 
cated the  radiation  of  light  from  that  important  point. 
This  individual  was  a man  fifty  years  old,  as  much 
like  the  ex-regent  Feijo  in  his  appearance  as  any  other 
Brazilian  I ever  saw.  Part  of  his  education  he  had 
received  in  Portugal;  part  in  Brazil.  He  had  once 
been  chaplain  to  the  prison  Island  of  Fernando  de 
Noronha.  Owinff  to  his  recent  change  of  views  on 
several  important  topics,  he  had  suffered  considerable 
persecution  from  his  bishop  and  some  other  clergy,  but 
he  seemed  in  no  way  disheartened  by  this. 

His  opinion  was,  that  the  silent  distribution  of  tracts 
and  Scriptures  among  those  persons  and  families  dis- 
posed to  read  and  prize  them,  was  the  best  method  of 
doing  good  in  the  country  at  present.  And  most  faith- 
fully did  he  pursue  that  method,  calling  on  me  every 
few  days  for  a fresh  supply  of  evangelical  publications. 

I one  day  returned  his  visit,  and  found  him  sur- 
rounded with  quite  a library,  among  which  his  Bible 
attracted  my  attention,  as  having  been  for  a year  or 
two  past  his  one  book.  Almost  every  page  in  it  was 
marked  as  containing  something  of  very  especial  in- 
terest. I could  but  wish  that  all,  with  whom  the  Bible 
is  not  a rare  book,  prized  it  as  highly  as  did  this  padre, 
who  after  having  spent  the  greater  portion  of  his  life  as 


RIVER  PASSAGE  TO  OLINDA. 


153 


a minister  of  religion  according  to  the  best  of  his  pre- 
vious knowledge,  now  in  his  declining  years  had  found 
the  word  of  God  to  be  “a  light  to  his  feet  and  a lamp 
to  his  path.” 

My  first  visit  to  Olinda  was  made  in  the  company  of 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  R.  We  took  a canoe  and  passed  up  the 
inner  passage,  which  in  the  coolness  of  the  morning 
was  very  pleasant.  The  canoes  used  here  are  of  a 
different  form  from  those  constructed  for  deep  water. 
They  are  navigated  almost  entirely  by  the  aid  of  set- 
ting-poles. The  canoeiros  are  generally  large  and 
powerful  negroes,  each  one  of  whom  navigates  his  own 
canoe  singly.  They  have  various  dignities  distributed 
among  themselves,  corresponding  to  military  titles. 
Certain  individuals,  by  suffrage  of  the  body,  are 
elected  severally  to  the  rank  of  sergeant,  ensign,  lieu- 
tenant, captain,  major,  and  colonel.  Nor  are  their 
honors  merely  nominal.  When  commissioned  officers 
are  met  by  inferiors  or  privates,  they  are  entitled  to  a 
salute  of  one,  two,  three,  or  four  strokes  upon  the 
water,  with  the  vara  or  setting-pole.  The  number  of 
strokes  is  graduated  by  the  rank  of  the  individual  sa- 
luted, who  always  returns  the  compliment  with  a single 
stroke.  An  omission  thus  to  salute  is  regarded  as  a 
crime  in  this  aquatic  community,  and  is  subject  to  pun- 
ishment. In  case,  however,  one  canoeiro  has  the  skill 
or  good  fortune  to  run  past  a superior  in  rank,  no 
ceremonies  are  required  of  him. 

Ten  towers  of  churches  and  convents  may  be  counted 
in  the  approach  to  Olinda.  But  nothing  can  exceed 
the  contrast  between  the  charming  appearance  of  the 
town  when  seen  at  a distance,  and  the  state  of  decay 
and  abandonment  which  it  presents  on  being  entered. 

Vol.  II.— 20 


154 


APPEARANCE  OF  THE  CITY. 


Almost  every  street  is  grown  over  with  grass.  Half 
the  houses  appear  tenantless,  and  the  remainder  are 
in  wretched  repair,  having  their  windows  and  blinds 
broken  out,  so  as  to  admit  of  uninterrupted  gazing  at 
any  stranger  or  straggler  who  may  appear  in  the  al- 
most forsaken  thoroughfares.  As  to  business,  save 
what  is  transacted  in  the  vendas  or  groggeries,  there 
is  scarcely  the  name  of  it  known. 

Our  steps  were  first  directed  up  the  hill  to  a nun- 
nery, where  Mrs.  It.  was  desirous  to  procure  a selec- 
tion of  the  sweetmeats  prepared  and  kept  for  sale  by 
the  sisters.  Having  negotiated  this  business  with  the 
abbess,  we  passed  on  to  the  Botanical  Garden.  This 
garden,  though  well  located  and  adorned  with  some 
valuable  trees,  has  fewer  pretensions  than  almost  any 
other  in  the  country,  on  account  of  the  scanty  appro- 
priations made  by  the  provincial  government  for  its 
support.  Being  overtaken  by  a sudden  shower  while 
visiting  it,  we  were  honored  with  a shelter  in  the  house 
of  the  director,  who  was  an  elderly  man,  affable  in  his 
demeanor,  and  apparently  clever  in  his  knowledge  of 
botany.  He  sadly  lamented  the  narrow  policy  which 
stinted  his  allowance  of  funds  in  behalf  of  the  garden, 
but  did  not  seem  disposed  to  put  forth  any  efforts  to 
improve  it  for  which  he  was  not  well  paid. 

This  visit  to  Olinda  was  not  of  sufficient  len<rth  to 

o 

satisfy  my  curiosity  with  respect  to  the  place.  Ac- 
cordingly, a few  days  afterward  I made  a solitary  ex- 
cursion in  more  favorable  weather,  and  remained  as 
long  as  I found  any  thing  of  interest  to  observe.  I 
visited  the  convents  of  the  Carmo  and  San  Bento,  the 
church  of  S.  Pedro,  and  the  Se  or  Cathedral.  The 
latter  is  a fine  spacious  building,  ornamented  in  very 


Miii( 


PANORAMA. 


155 


good  taste,  though  not  in  the  richest  style.  The  prin- 
cipal buildings  besides  these,  are  the  Franciscan  Con- 
vent, the  Nunnery,  the  Misericordia,  the  Bishop’s 
Palace,  an  Episcopal  Seminary,  and  the  Curso  Juri- 
dico.  These  buildings  are  nearly  all  situated  in  com- 
manding positions  on  different  parts  of  the  hill.  Their 
towers  and  massive  walls  will  yet  long  stand  as  me- 
morials of  the  enterprise  and  zeal  of  their  founders, 
among  whom  the  Jesuits  were  foremost.  But  unless 
the  present  occupants  shall  devote  to  these  edifices 
more  care  and  attention  than  most  of  the  surrounding 
buildings  receive,  the  day  is  not  very  distant  when  they 
will  be  looked  upon  as  masses  of  ruins.  Even  now 
they  exhibit  so  many  proofs  that  the  effacing  fingers 
of  time  are  at  work  upon  them,  that  all  the  glories  of 
nature  by  which  they  are  surrounded,  cannot  suffice 
to  remove  sadness  from  the  heart  of  the  visitor  who 
wanders  in  their  midst. 

From  the  heights  of  Olinda  the  traveler  looks  out, 
as  from  a watchtower,  upon  the  green  ocean,  whose 
waves  are  crested  with  foam  wherever  they  break  over 
the  rocky  reefs  that  line  the  coast,  or  dash  upon  the 
sandy  beach  beneath  him.  He  stretches  his  gaze  over 
the  rival  city,  proud  in  her  increasing  wealth  and  com- 
merce. Far  beyond  this,  his  eye  falls  upon  the  pro- 
montory of  St.  Augustine,  and  thence  instinctively 
follows  the  curving  line  of  highlands  that  skirt  the  re- 
concave, back  to  the  spot  on  which  he  stands;  and 
behold,  what  subjects  of  contemplation  surround  him? 
In  the  midst  of  a splendid  vegetation,  where  every  leaf 
is  burnished  by  the  radiance  of  a tropical  sun,  and 
waves  in  a constant  breeze,  the  silence  of  death  seems 
to  reign.  The  history  of  former  years  comes  up  as  if 


LAW  UNIVERSITY. 


I 56 

to  sing  the  requiem  of  ruined  ambition  and  defeated 
hope,  and  to  repeat  the  melancholy  reflection,  sic  transit 
gloria  mundi.  Thus  Athens  fell  into  ruins;  thus  Rome, 
with  all  her  power,  decayed ; and  thus  Olinda,  the  beau- 
tiful, so  long  the  seat  of  power,  both  under  the  Portu- 
guese and  the  Dutch,  seems  to  be  prematurely  going 
the  way  of  all  the  earth. 

So  far  as  locality  merely  is  concerned,  it  is  still  a 
suitable  place  for  a literary  institution,  and  it  was  said 
that  the  various  disbursements  caused  by  the  Curso 
Juridico  formed  its  principal  support,  but  a withdrawal 
of  even  this  was  contemplated.  There  were,  at  the 
time  of  my  visit,  about  two  hundred  students  enrolled 
as  members  of  the  institution.  I was  grieved  to  learn, 
from  credible  authority,  that  a large  number  of  the 
young  men  here  pursuing  a course  of  legal  studies, 
avowed  the  principles  of  infidelity.  Little  seemed  to 
be  done  to  oppose  the  spread  of  these  corrupting  sen- 
timents, save  that  they  were  inefficiently  assailed  from 
time  to  time,  in  some  humorous  articles  published  in 
the  newspapers  by  one  of  the  professors.  The  prin- 
ciples and  habits  of  these  young  gentlemen  suffered, 
as  a matter  of  course,  from  the  lack  of  good  society  in 
the  place.  Corresponding  to  these  facts,  it  is  not  very 
surprising  to  learn  from  a recent  report  of  the  minister 
of  the  empire,  that  a spirit  of  turbulence  has  for  a long 
time  prevailed  among  the  students,  to  the  great  preju- 
dice of  scholastic  improvement.  To  such  a degree, 
indeed,  had  abuses  of  various  sorts  crept  in,  that  the 
propriety  of  entirely  abolishing  the  department  of  the 
institution  known  as  the  collegia  das  artes  was  gravely 
suggested  to  the  imperial  legislature  of  1844. 

I scarcely  observed  in  all  Olinda,  a single  dwelling- 


THE  PRISON  AND  THE  PALACE.  157 

house  which  indicated  the  residence  of  a person  of  good 
taste  or  of  industry.  On  the  contrary,  broken  win- 
dows, naked  children,  numerous  grog-shops,  and  slo- 
venly habits  of  every  description,  indicated  beyond  a 
doubt  that  the  great  mass  of  the  people,  and  particu- 
larly those  who  inhabited  the  declivity  of  the  hill,  were 
of  the  very  lowest  order.  Trees  of  spontaneous  growth, 
and  of  great  beauty,  promiscuously  filled  almost  every 
open  space,  but  I looked  in  vain  for  a well-cultivated 
garden ; even  that  of  the  government,  before  alluded 
to,  although  it  contained  some  rows  of  splendid  bread- 
fruit trees,  mangueiras,  and  the  loftiest  palms,  yet  was 
at  the  same  time  occupied  by  some  old  horses  as  a 
pasture. 

Before  taking  leave  of  Olinda,  I must  notice  the 
theatre,  the  prison,  and  the  palace.  The  theatre  is 
a long,  low  building,  bearing  no  marks  of  antiquity. 
A young  man  who  served  me  as  a guide,  stated  that  it 
was  ordinarily  inhabited  by  a woman,  who  gave  place 
when  any  of  the  students  wished  to  display  their  his- 
trionic powers,  or  when  any  wandering  juggler  came 
along  to  entertain  the  community. 

The  prison  is  a very  spacious  building,  occupying  a 
splendid  locality.  Its  grated  windows  endure,  while 
those  of  the  government  palace,  a few  rods  distant, 
have  all  disappeared.  On  my  former  visit  our  com- 
pany observed  a solitary  female  looking  out  of  a win- 
dow in  the  fourth  story;  however  painful  her  imprison- 
ment might  have  been  in  other  respects,  she  certainly 
could  not  complain  of  a want  of  fine  air,  or  of  enchant- 
ing prospects.  These  circumstances  were  somewhat 
in  contrast  with  the  common  ideas  of  a dungeon. 
Moreover,  so  far  as  we  could  judge,  this  woman  ap- 

O 


158 


ANCIENT  MAURICIUS. 


peared  to  be  as  well  employed  as  most  of  her  neigh- 
bors, to  wit,  in  gazing  at  the  passers  by. 

The  palace  appeared  entirely  abandoned.  Over  its 
principal  door  I read  the  following  inscription: 

“ Regnante  Invictissimo  Portugaliae  Regc  D.  Alfonso 
VI.  Hanc  Regiam  Basilicam  Reaedificavit  Andreas 
Vidal  de  Negreiros  Hujus  Colonise  moderator  Dignis- 
simo.  1660.” 

Olinda  deserves  to  be  classed  with  S.  Vicente,  and 
the  two  places  may  be  considered  as  exhibiting  the 
classic  remains  of  the  colonial  system  of  Portugal. 
Olinda,  however,  reminds  us  nearly  as  much  of  the 
Dutch  as  it  does  of  the  Portuguese,  being  known  in  the 
annals  of  Holland  as  the  ancient  Mauricius,  upon  which 
the  ambitious  Count  of  Nassau  staked  his  fortune  and 
his  fame. 


VOYAGE  TO  1TAMARACA. 


159 


CHAPTER  IX. 

\oyage  to  Itamaraca. — Canoe  and  Canoeiros. — Arrival  at  the  Island. 
— First  impressions. — The  Hammock. — Customs  of  the  People. — 
Slavers. — Footsteps  of  St.  George. — Fisheries. — Theatricals. — Image 
Worship. — Cocoa  Grove. — Fruits  of  the  Island. — Salt-works. — Early 
importance.  — Subsequent  misfortunes  of  the  Island.  — Barra  de 
Catudma. — Distribution  of  Tracts  and  Scriptures. — Habits  of  the 
Islanders. 

After  a residence  of  some  weeks  in  the  city  of 
Pernambuco  I resolved  to  visit  Itamaraca,  an  island 
of  some  note  on  the  northern  coast  of  the  province, 
and  also  the  city  of  Parahiba.  My  passage  to  the 
island  had  been  engaged  by  a friend;  and  about  noon 
of  a fine  day,  I was  hurried  to  embark  on  board  the 
canoe  San  Bernardo,  with  the  intelligence  that  the 
tide  having  begun  to  flow,  now  furnished  the  most 
favorable  opportunity  for  sailing.  The  wind  was  blow- 
ing almost  a gale,  and  the  idea  of  going  to  sea  in  a 
canoe  did  not  seem  very  inviting.  But  on  entering 
the  craft  all  my  apprehensions  subsided.  I found  it 
not  less  than  seven  feet  wide  by  about  twenty-five  in 
length;  yet  it  had  been  formed  out  of  a single  tree, 
and  was  much  shorter  than  some  others  to  be  found  on 
the  same  coast.  These  canoes  are  worth  from  five  to 
twelve  hundred  milreis  each.  The  one  in  question 
was  valued  at  eight  hundred.  It  had  a short  deck  at 
each  end,  forming  beneath,  what  I will  call  the  fore 
and  after  cabins,  midships  being  entirely  open  for 
cargo.  This  canoe  .carried  an  immense  triangular  sail 
and  a jib,  and  had  on  each  side  an  embono,  or  buoy, 


1G0 


MODE  OF  NAVIGATION. 


made  of  two  large  trunks  of  the  jangada  wood  fasten- 
ed together,  and  lashed  to  the  upper  edge  to  prevent 
capsizing.  It  was  navigated  by  three  men.  The  cap- 
tain was  a mulatto,  and  his  two  men  were  negroes. 
They  carried,  besides  myself,  two  watermen  as  pas- 
sengers. In  going  out,  we  passed  alongside  the  Rc- 
gisto , to  exhibit  the  dispatch  of  the  vessel.  It  was  to 
be  presumed  that  the  passports  of  the  passengers 
would  be  here  demanded,  but  they  were  not.  Mine, 
although  it  cost  a round  sum,  had  not  been  looked  at 
by  any  officer  since  leaving  Rio. 

We  immediately  bore  away  to  the  north,  taking  no 
notice  of  reefs  or  shallows,  presuming  they  would  not 
interfere  with  the  slight  draught  of  the  canoe.  There 
seemed  to  prevail  the  greatest  harmony  between  the 
captain  and  his  men,  without  any  of  those  troublesome 
ideas  of  rank  and  authority  which  commonly  prevail 
on  salt  water.  They  interchanged  places  and  duties 
without  the  least  ceremony,  and  from  the  indomitable 
garrulity  of  the  proeiros,  which  drowned  all  sounds 
more  harmonious  than  their  own  rough  voices,  one 
would  have  supposed  them  second  to  no  one  in  conse- 
quence. After  satisfying  my  curiosity  about  the  mode 
of  navigation,  and  enjoying  the  line  views  furnished  as 
we  were  standing  off  Olinda  point,  I took  undisputed 
possession  of  the  after  cabin,  and  extended  myself  for 
a nap.  The  swell  wras  very  heavy,  as  we  were  in 
shoal  water,  and  off  extreme  points  of  land ; neverthe- 
less, our  craft  being  light  shipped  but  little  water,  and 
we  rode  gaily  over  the  surges.  When  I afterwards 
arose  we  were  off  Pau  amarello,  a fort  and  village  of 
the  same  name,  both  distinguished  in  the  history  of 
the  country.  The  island  to  which  we  were  hound  was 


ARRIVAL  AT  THE  ISLAND. 


161 


just  in  sight  from  the  top  of  the  wave.  About  four 
o’clock  we  landed  at  the  Pilar  a pova^ao,  (settlement,) 
so  called  after  a church  of  Nossa  Senhora  do  pilar , 
having  completed  the  voyage  of  eight  leagues  in  four 
hours.  The  whole  coast  in  this  part  of  the  island  is 
planted  with  cocoa-nut  trees,  in  the  shade  of  which 
are  clustered  a great  number  of  huts  and  houses.  Our 
first  movement  was  to  the  cabin  of  Bernardo,  the  cap- 
tain of  the  canoe,  who  kindly  offered  to  show  me  to 
the  house  of  the  person  to  whom  I bore  a letter.  We 
went,  leaving  my  baggage  to  be  sent  for,  and  lo ! it 
was  ascertained  that  Senhor  Galanzani  had  that  very 
afternoon  gone  away  to  be  absent  several  days.  For- 
tunately the  name  of  a neighbor  had  been  given  on 
the  back  of  the  letter,  as  a substitute  in  case  of  his 
absence.  Accordingly  I delivered  it  to  the  family  of 
Senhor  Marlinho  Joze  do  Sacramento,  who  himself 
had  gone  out  to  walk.  I then  took  a turn  through  the 
village.  I found  it  built  without  the  least  regularity 
along  paths  winding  in  different  directions.  The  church 
was  rather  an  ancient  building,  with  heavy  walls,  and 
a deserted  aspect.  Opposite,  stood  the  theatre,  ap- 
parently enjoying  a much  greater  degree  of  prospe- 
rity. The  houses  generally  appeared  on  the  outside 
as  if  built  entirely  of  the  cocoa-palm  leaf,  but,  in  fact, 
this  material  only  covered  the  sides,  in  the  same  style 
as  thatch  did  the  roofs. 

After  my  walk  I rested  in  the  house  of  Bernardo, 
whose  wife,  a brisk  and  pretty  little  person,  with  black 
eyes  and  hair,  showing  to  admiration  in  contrast  with 
the  jetty  brunette  of  her  countenance,  was  kindly  pre- 
paring me  a supper  of  fish.  I was,  however,  soon 
sent  for  by  Senhor  Martinho.  In  his  house  I was  im- 
Vol.  II. — 21  o 2 


162 


FIRST  IMPRESSIONS. 


mediately  led  to  consider  myself  at  home.  This  domi- 
cil was  of  rather  a superior  order  for  the  place,  being 
built  of  strong  taipa  walls,  whitewashed  without,  and 
having  a good  tiled  roof.  It  had  two  front  rooms,  and 
more  or  less  in  rear,  with  an  enclosure  of  a few  rods 
of  ground  for  a garden.  Senhor  M.  was  a man  of 
about  fifty  years,  short,  thick  set,  and  pleasant,  al- 
though decidedly  homespun  in  his  manners.  His 
family  consisted  of  a wife,  a daughter,  and  five  grand 
children.  The  daughter,  about  a year  previous,  had 
been  left  a widow,  and  had  returned  to  the  paternal 
roof  with  her  children.  These  children  were  pretty, 
and  more  than  ordinarily  intelligent  in  their  appear- 
ance. The  greatest  wonder  imaginable  seemed  to  be 
entertained  by  old  as  well  as  young,  respecting  the 
stranger  who  had  come  from  so  far  a country.  After 
supper,  which  consisted  of  hard  biscuit  and  butter, 
with  tea,  which  I did  not  drink,  a rede  (hammock) 
was  suspended  from  rings,  at  opposite  corners  of  the 
front  room,  and  I was  left  to  my  devotions  and  slum- 
bers, truly  thankful  for  having  been  preserved  through 
the  perils  of  the  day,  and  for  the  kind-hearted  hospi- 
tality which  I once  more  found  to  await  me  in  a land 
of  strangers. 

This  was  the  first  time  I had  slept  in  one  of  these 
swinging  beds,  which  are  the  true  fashion  of  the  coun- 
try, and  as  I proved  by  a good  night’s  rest,  quite 
worthy  of  becoming  so.  The  next  morning  I made 
mine  hostess  a present  of  such  eatables  as  had  been 
put  up  for  my  voyage,  and  they  proved  very  accep- 
table to  her.  Breakfast  was  served  rather  late,  and 
partaken,  in  the  first  instance,  by  the  old  gentleman, 
his  eldest  grandson,  and  myself.  The  female  mem- 


CUSTOMS  OF  THE  PEOPLE. 


163 


bers  of  the  family  ate  subsequently  in  another  room, 
notwithstanding  my  persuasions  to  induce  them  to 
favor  us  with  their  company.  The  table  was  a high, 
noble  piece  of  furniture,  standing  in  a corner  of  the 
room,  with  one  end  and  side  against  the  walls.  At  the 
other  end  it  was  my  privilege  to  sit,  in  one  of  the  two 
chairs  which  the  room,  and  for  aught  I learned  to  the 
contrary,  the  house  afforded.  At  my  right  hand  sat 
the  boy  on  a stool,  and  upon  the  table  in  front  of  me 
presided  the  Senhor,  sitting  a la  Turque.  Although 
described  as  the  breakfast  scene,  this  was  the  general 
order  of  our  meals. 

I was  treated  to  the  luxury  of  pure  goat’s  milk, 
which,  together  with  the  articles  my  box  had  furnish- 
ed, formed  a superior  repast.  About  noon  a delicious 
dessert  of  green  cocoas  was  offered. 

My  first  excursion  upon  the  island  extended  along 
the  beach  at  low  tide.  Numerous  interesting  objects 
attracted  my  attention,  and  as  I was  accompanied  by 
the  grandson  of  Senhor  Martinho,  I commenced  in- 
structing him  in  the  elements  of  conchology. 

At  a small  distance  off  the  bar  I perceived  a brig  at 
anchor.  She  was  doubtless  a slaver,  that  had  not  quite 
finished  landing  her  cargo  of  human  beings.  This  is  a 
favorite  resort  for  such  vessels,  and  one  where  they 
are  seldom  disturbed.  I was  informed  that  but  a short 
time  previously,  two  cargoes  had  been  set  on  shore 
there,  the  one  consisting  of  three  hundred  and  fifty, 
and  the  other  of  four  hundred  slaves.  It  was  near  this 
locality  that  a small  brig-schooner  had,  for  a rarity, 
recently  been  captured.  She  was  bound  to  Rio,  but 
being  hotly  chased  by  a British  sloop  of  war,  she  had 
put  in  here,  and  landed  one  hundred  and  thirty  slaves. 


164 


FOOTSTEPS  OF  ST.  GEORGE. 


The  president  of  Pernambuco  learning  this  fact,  or- 
dered out  a Brazilian  brig  of  war  in  chase.  The 
guilty  vessel  was  overhauled  and  brought  into  the  har- 
bor a prize.  She  had  been  fitted  out  in  the  Illia  do 
Principe,  and  what  seemed  remarkable  was  the  fact 
that  her  captain  and  all  his  crew  were  free  black  men. 

During  this  walk  the  lad  in  my  company  informed 
me  of  a popular  tradition  which  he  had  been  taught  to 
believe.  It  was,  that  St.  George  had  once  visited  the 
island,  and  left  his  footsteps  upon  a ledge  of  rocks 
near  the  shore.  The  saint  is  supposed  to  have  been 
accompanied  by  a little  dog,  whose  track  also  remains. 
We  passed  over  the  rock,  but  my  guide  was  unable  to 
find  the  marvellous  impressions,  although  he  said  he 
had  once  seen  them. 

Traditions  respecting  Saint  Thomas  having  visited 
Brazil  are  very  common  in  different  parts  of  the  coun- 
try. Many  of  them  were  coined  by  the  Jesuits,  and 
they  have  passed  currently  among  a credulous  people. 
Observe  the  logic  with  which  the  renowned  Simon  de 
Yasconccllos  proves  that  Saint  Thomas  certainly  must 
have  been  in  South  America.  “ With  what  show  of 
reason,”  says  the  Jesuit,  “ could  the  American  Indian 
be  damned,  if  the  Gospel  had  never  been  preached  to 
him?  He  who  sent  his  apostles  into  all  the  world 
could  not  mean  to  leave  America,  which  is  nearly  half 
of  it,  out  of  the  question.  The  Gospel,  therefore,  must 
have  been  preached  there,  in  obedience  to  this  com- 
mand. But  by  whom  was  it  preached?  It  could  not 
have  been  by  either  of  the  other  apostles,  Paul,  Peter, 
John,  Ac.  Saint  Thomas,  therefore,  must  have  been 
the  man!”  No  wonder  the  Jesuits  were  able  to  map 
out  his  travels  from  Brazil  to  Peru,  to  find  traces  of 


CURRAES. 


165 


his  pastoral  staff,  crosses  erected  by  him,  and  inscrip- 
tions in  Greek  and  Hebrew  written  by  his  hand.  They 
even  brought  his  sandals  and  his  mantle  unconsumed 
out  of  the  volcano  of  Arequipa ! 

Owing  to  the  bad  luck  of  the  fishermen,  our  dinner 
was  late.  Their  curraes  or  pens  had  scarcely  caught 
any  thing  during  the  day.  The  fish-pen  ( curral  de 
j peixe)  is  made  by  stakes  driven  into  the  sandy  bottom. 
Small  rods  are  attached  to  the  stakes  by  means  of 
cross  pieces  and  withes,  and  brought  so  close  to  each 
other  as  to  prevent  the  passage  of  any  but  the  smallest 
fishes.  The  rows  of  stakes  generally  commence  at  the 
praya,  and  run  in  a right  line  into  the  sea,  some  ten, 
twenty,  or  thirty  rods,  according  to  the  depth  of  water, 
and  thence  describe  an  inclosure,  in  some  form  between 
a square  and  circle,  with  openings  towards  the  land. 
Into  these  the  fish  run  with  the  ebb  tide,  and  are  then 
easily  taken  in  a net.  The  privilege  of  building  these 
curraes  is  licensed  by  government.  Sometimes  a place 
is  found  for  them  a long  way  out  from  shore,  and  one 
or  two  that  I saw  appeared  to  be  on  the  reef  itself,  or 
some  branch  of  it,  not  less  than  half  a league  distant. 
Being  constructed  of  stakes  of  equal  length,  some  of 
them  appear  very  well  at  a distance,  and  not  unlike 
fortifications.  A great  profit  is  generally  realized  by 
their  proprietors,  and  occasionally  two  or  three  hun- 
dred milreis  per  day.  When,  however,  their  products 
fail,  it  is  a public  calamity  to  the  community  of  island- 
ers and  coast  residents,  whose  principal  articles  of  diet 
are  fish  and  the  cocoa-nut.  Thus  dinner  with  us,  as 
with  the  rest,  was  chiefly  a matter  of  conjecture  until 
four  p.  M.  It  however  came,  thanks  to  the  fruitfulness 
of  both  the  sea  and  the  dry  land,  consisting  of  fish, 


166 


THEATRICALS. 


pirao,*  and  pepper  gravy,  abounding  in  caloric  sufficient 
to  have  cooked  the  whole  mess.  The  old  gentleman 
being  absent,  the  young  one  mounted  the  table  in  his 
place,  and  served  himself  in  the  only  style  he  seemed 
to  understand,  and  which  prevails  among  the  lower 
classes,  viz.  using  his  fingers  instead  of  knives  and 
forks,  and  sopping  his  morsels  in  the  common  dish  of 
sauce. 

This  lad  was  absent  through  the  evening  on  his 
duties  as  prompter  (apontador)  of  the  theatre,  which 
was  an  evident  indication  of  his  superior  literary  quali- 
fications, and  his  popularity  in  the  place.  I learned 
that  a certain  Englishman,  called  Ilenrique  Inglez, 
was  the  prime  mover  in  theatrical  matters  on  the 
island,  and  one  of  the  principal  actors.  I had  met  this 
personage  in  the  morning,  when  he  told  me  he  had 
been  in  the  Brazils  fourteen  years,  and  had  recently 
come  from  Para.  He  seemed  capable  of  better  em- 
ployment, but  being  probably  afflicted  with  the  plague 
of  the  country,  laziness,  he  was  satisfied  with  turning 
his  hand  to  a profession  which  at  once  promoted  his 
consequence  in  the  eyes  of  the  people,  and  kept  him 
from  starvation.  He  was  said  to  have  respectable 
friends,  who  had  disowned  him  on  account  of  his  mar- 
riage with  a cabra  or  mulatto  woman,  from  whom  he  had 
since  parted.  I was  told  that  the  performances  of  the 
stage,  which  generally  occur  on  holiday  and  Sunday 
evenings,  are  honored  with  “overflowing  houses.” 
Thus  the  religion  and  amusements  of  this  Christian 
people  are  united.  No  village  is  too  small  to  have  a 
theatre;  and  a lottery  has  just  been  granted  by  the 
legislature  of  the  province  to  filch  from  the  pockets  of 


* The  flour  of  mandioc,  boiled. 


RIDE  ALONG  THE  SHORE. 


167 


the  poor  money  enough  to  build  a theatre  in  Per- 
nambuco. 

There  are  several  churches  in  the  island,  and  very 
many  of  the  houses  have  their  saint  or  tutelar  deity. 
An  image  called  Nosso  Senhor  Bom  Jesus,  passed  by 
in  the  afternoon,  to  which,  though  my  host  offered 
neither  silver  nor  gold,  he  embraced  the  privilege  of 
giving  a kiss.  He  then  passed  it  around  the  family, 
to  afford  all  its  members  the  same  privilege,  saying  to 
the  children  they  should  do  this  in  order  to  go  to  hea- 
ven. I have  not  before  mentioned  that  there  was  an 
armario,  (a  wooden  case,)  said  to  contain  Nossa  Senho- 
ra,  occupying  the  most  prominent  place  in  the  house. 
It  was  closed  with  lock  and  key,  and  over  the  key  hung 
several  rosaries,  upon  which  I suppose  the  prayers  di- 
rected to  the  image  or  its  spirit  were  counted.  I rea- 
soned some  little  with  Senhor  M.  on  the  subject,  who 
seemed  to  have  both  as  clear  and  as  pertinacious  ideas 
respecting  it,  as  most  of  those  who  ^advocate  bowing 
down  to  images  of  wood,  clay,  or  stone.  As  an  ultima- 
tum he  offered  to  show  me  the  object  of  his  spiritual 
honors.  I,  however,  declined  seeing  it. 

On  the  second  day,  having  engaged  a horse  for 
riding,  I proceeded  about  two  miles  along  the  southern 
shore,  alternately  in  paths  among  the  cabins,  and  upon 
the  hard  white  sand  of  the  beach.  The  dwellings  ex- 
tended with  more  or  less  regularity  the  whole  distance, 
while  I had  the  day  before  found  them  in  the  same 
manner  a mile  and  a half  to  the  westward.  Thus  it 
may  be  said  that  the  whole  eastern  shore  of  Itamaraca 
is  covered  with  habitations,  embowered  in  the  shade  of 
one  continuous  cocoa-grove. 

Nothing  could  be  at  once  more  useful  and  ornamen- 


168 


SCENERY. 


tal  than  these  magnificent  palms.  They  are  planted 
in  regular  lines,  and  grow  to  a nearly  uniform  height. 
Their  trunks  are  slender  and  limbless,  marked  only  by 
regular  scars  left  in  their  growth,  as  one  set  of  decidu- 
ous leaves  falls  off,  yielding  the  precedence  to  another. 
Quite  in  their  lofty  top  the  fruit  is  clustered.  The 
leaves,  though  simple  and  plume-like  in  form,  are  ma- 
jestic in  size.  They  stretch  in  various  curves  from  the 
common  centre  of  each  tree-top,  so  as  to  unite  their  ex- 
tremities, and  form  an  umbrageous  canopy  so  dense  as 
to  be  scarcely  penetrated  by  the  rays  of  a vertical  sun. 
These  bowers  are  ever  green,  and  whether  illuminated 
by  sun,  moon,  or  star-light,  they  shed  down  by  varying 
reflections  a sombre  brilliancy,  calculated  to  chasten  the 
feelings  and  soothe  the  heart.  Throughout  all  this  vast 
arena  the  grass  grows  wild,  and  the  turf  is  intersected 
by  narrow,  winding  paths,  exhibiting  a white  sandy 
bottom  beneath.  Here  the  mild  air  of  the  grove  is 
freshened  by  an  ajmost  unceasing  breeze  from  the  sea, 
while  he  who  enjoys  it  can  look  out  upon  a boundless 
expanse  of  the  ocean,  heaving  its  restless  tide  and 
breaking  into  foam  over  the  coral  reefs  which  girt  the 
island.  The  strip  of  the  shore  planted  with  coqueiros, 
varies  from  forty  to  one  hundred  rods  in  width.  Be- 
yond this,  the  prevailing  tree  is  the  cajueiro  or  cashew, 
which,  together  with  the  vine,  the  mangueira,  and 
other  trees,  produces  fruit  in  great  abundance  and 
perfection. 

It  was  the  lamentation  of  every  one  I met,  and  es- 
pecially of  mine  host  and  hostess,  that  I was  not  there 
in  the  summer,  the  season  of  fruit.  “Agora  nao  ha 
nada!  No  tempo  do  verao  ha  muita  fruita,  muita 
manga,  muita  uva,  muito  peixe.  Porcm  sempre  ha 


THE  COCOA-NUT  THEE. 


169 


muito  coco  verde  para  beber  agoa.  Or  Sim."*  “ Now 
there  is  nothing  to  be  had.  In  the  summer  we  have 
an  abundance  of  every  thing — fruit,  mangoes,  grapes, 
and  fish.  Nevertheless  we  always  have  a plenty  of 
green  cocoas.” 

The  cocoa  is  truly  the  staple  vegetable,  and  although 
many  of  the  uses  to  which  it  may  be  applied  are  un- 
known or  unpractised  here,  yet  it  literally  furnishes  the 
people  with  meat,  drink,  fuel,  houses,  and  commerce. 
Besides  the  sale  of  the  raw  nut,  the  pulp  is  converted 
into  oil,  the  shell  into  dippers,  and  the  fibrous  husk 
into  cordage;  while  all  know  the  value  of  its  water  as 
a beverage.  At  the  same  time  the  leaf  furnishes  ma- 
terials for  the  construction  of  an  entire  habitation.  It 
is  wrought  into  baskets,  it  makes  fences,  and  when 
dried  may  be  used  for  writing,  while  its  ashes  yield 
potash.  The  terminal  bud  is  a delicate  article  of  food; 
the  juice  of  the  flower  and  stem  contains  sugar,  and 
may  be  fermented  into  wine,  or  distilled  into  spirits; 
and,  finally,  the  case  of  the  trunk  or  stem  is  converted 
into  drums,  or  used  in  the  construction  of  buildings, 
while  the  lower  extremity  is  so  hard  as  to  take  a 
beautiful  polish,  after  which  it  resembles  agate. 

Persons  mounting  the  trees  to  pluck  the  fruit,  carry 
a fouce  or  hedging  bill,  with  a short  handle,  to  cut  the 
stems.  It  is  twisted  into  the  girdle,  and  the  bearer,  if 
expert,  places  simply  his  hands  and  feet  against  the 
side  of  the  tree  and  walks  up,  if  not  with  the  agility  of 
a monkey,  certainly  with  incomparable  self-composure; 

* The  articulation  or  preceding  sim  and  nao,  (yes  and  no,)  is  a pro- 
vincialism of  this  section  of  Brazil,  having  no  particular  signification. 
It  is  heard  at  the  close  of  nearly  every  sentence  spoken  by  the  lower 
classes  of  the  inhabitants  of  Itamaracd. 

Vol.  II.— 22  P 


170  THE  CASHEW  TREE SALT  WORKS. 

this  is  done  (I  am  told)  on  the  tallest  and  straightest 
trees. 

The  cashew  tree  or  cajueiro,  from  its  abundance  on 
the  island,  as  well  as  the  richness  of  its  fruit,  deserves 
notice  in  this  connection.  Southey  calls  it  the  finest 
of  the  American  trees.  “ How  beautiful  it  is  to  be- 
hold in  its  pomp,  either  when  it  is  re-clothing  itself,  in 
July  and  August,  with  the  brightest  verdure  of  its 
leaves;  or  when,  during  our  northern  autumn,  it  is 
covered  with  white  and  rosy-tinged  blossoms;  or  final- 
ly, in  the  three  following  months,  when  it  is  enriched 
with  its  ruby  and  golden  fruits,  which  hang  amid  its 
leaves  like  pendent  jewels!  Its  leaves  have  an  aro- 
matic odor,  its  flowers  are  exquisitely  fragrant,  its 
shade  deep  and  delightful.  A gum  exudes  from  its 
trunk  in  nothing  inferior  to  that  of  Senegal,  and  in 
such  abundance  as  to  have  the  appearance  of  rain- 
drops upon  the  tree.  This  gum  was  used  bv  the  Indians 
as  a medicine,  being  pounded  and  dissolved  in  water. 
This  admirable  tree  is  not  common  in  the  interior,  but 
towards  the  coast  whole  tracts  of  country,  which  would 
else  be  barren,  are  covered  with  it;  and  the  more  sandy 
the  soil  and  the  drier  the  season,  the  more  it  seems  to 
flourish.  The  possession  of  a spot  where  it  grew 
abundantly,  used  to  be  of  such  importance  as  often  to 
••ause  war  among  the  natives.  The  fruit  somewhat 
resembles  a pear  in  shape,  but  is  longer.  It  is  spongy 
and  full  of  a delicious  juice;  in  any  form  it  is  excel- 
lent, whether  in  its  natural  state  or  preserved.  What 
a blessing  would  this  tree  be  to  the  deserts  of  Arabia 
and  Africa.” 

After  breakfast,  at  which,  for  a rarity,  we  had  some 
excellent  bread,  made  of  imported  North  American 


MISFORTUNES  OF  THE  ISLAND.  171 

flour,  I rode  about  a mile  towards  the  centre  of  the 
island,  to  the  salinas , or  salt  works.  These  are  only 
wrought  in  summer,  on  account  of  rains  during  the 
rest  of  the  year.  The  only  buildings  on  the  spot  are 
storehouses  (armazens)  for  the  salt.  The  arrange- 
ments for  evaporation  are  very  simple,  consisting  of 
nothing  but  excavations  of  such  a depth  as  to  furnish 
each  a. level  spot  a few  yards  square,  into  which  the 
sea-water  can  enter  at  high  tide,  and  then  he  excluded 
until  the  successive  processes  are  completed  by  the 
power  of  the  sun.  After  crystalization  the  salt  is 
scraped  together  and  transferred  to  the  storehouses 
for  sale,  or  to  canoes  for  exportation. 

Besides  that  portion  of  the  island  of  Itamaraca  oc- 
cupied by  the  several  villages,  it  contains  three  large 
engenhos,  or  sugar  estates,  cultivated  in  the  usual 
manner,  and  producing  sugar,  mandioca,  rice,  corn, 
&c.  Southey,  following  Mr.  Koster,  represents  this 
island  as  having  been,  in  former  times,  sorely  distress- 
ed by  three  plagues.  The  one  consisted  in  its  being 
an  island,  and  separated  by  sea  from  the  main  land ; 
the  second  was  the  formidable  red  ant;  and  the  third 
a family  of  valentoens,  or  bullies,  by  the  name  of 
Guedes,  who  often  disturbed  the  public  peace.  These 
truths  were  reduced  to  a proverb.  I inquired  of  my 
host  if  the  Guedes  family  still  remained,  and  whether 
he  knew  any  thing  of  the  proverb.  He  at  once  repeat- 
ed it  in  a corrected  form  : 

“ Ilha  ! quem  te  persegue  ? 

Formiga,  passagem,  Guedes !” 

Thus  remedying  the  tautology,  and  the  want  of 
poetry,  of  the  version  which  prevails  in  English  books. 


172 


BARRA  DE  CATUAMA. 


He  then  told  ine  that  only  two  out  of  this  trio  of  per- 
secutors remained;  the  large  ants  being  still  destruc- 
tive to  agriculture — and  the  passage,  cutting  off  easy 
approach  from  the  continent;  but  that  the  valentoens 
had  disappeared.  Although  there  was  still  a family 
of  the  Guedes  in  the  island,  they  had  not  the  habits  of 
the  ancient  bravos. 

After  dinner  I rode  to  the  Barra  de  Catuama,  the 
anchorage  ground  at  the  northern  extremity  of  the 
island,  and  the  locality  of  an  ancient  fort  built  by  the 
Dutch.  Nothing  like  a rampart,  or  even  a foundation, 
now  remained.  All  that  was  left  behind  the  early 
wars  has  become  the  prey  of  time  and  the  waves.  The 
passage  to  the  continent  at  this  point  is,  perhaps,  a 
mile  in  width,  and  the  water  is  apparently  shoal.  If 
there  indeed  be  at  present  a sufficient  depth  for  the 
entrance  of  vessels,  the  services  of  a skillful  pilot  would 
be  requisite  to  find  it.  Such  is  the  changing  nature 
of  the  bottom  in  parts  so  exposed  to  a heavy  swell  and 
drifting  sand,  that  it  would  not  be  wonderful  if  the 
ancient  entrance  were  filled  up.  Yet  this  is  the  spot 
where  the  Dutch  once  contemplated  fixing  the  capital 
of  their  conquests  in  South  America. 

On  my  return  home,  at  ebb  tide,  I rode  outward 
perhaps  a mile  from  shore,  and  might  have  proceeded 
much  farther  upon  banks  of  sand  which  the  retiring 
sea  left  dry.  I thus  had  a beautiful  demonstration  of 
the  manner  in  which  the  island  must  have  been  form- 
ed originally. 

Fine  shells  are  found  here,  and  vast  quantities  of 
madrepora.  This  madrepora,  or  coraline  limestone, 
is  of  the  most  beautiful  kind,  and  is  constantly  form- 
ing under  the  lee  of  the  reef.  It  is  easily  dug  up  from 


DISTRIBUTION  OF  TRACTS,  &C. 


173 


the  sand,  and  furnishes,  when  burnt,  a lime  of  peculiar 
whiteness,  though  not  of  the  usual  strength.  Jt  is 
generally  used  for  whitewashing,  and  consequently  the 
material  receives  the  name  pedra  de  cal  de  cayar , 
while  the  hard  limestone,  of  whicli  there  is  some  on 
the  island,  is  called  pedra  de  cal  de  parede.  The 
few  attentions  which  I was  called  to  give  to  the  works 
and  wonders  of  nature,  while  in  Itamaraca,  seemed 
to  excite  universal  marvelling  among  the  people. 

After  a sojourn  of  two  days  on  the  island,  I made 
my  arrangements  for  embarking  at  an  early  hour 
the  next  morning.  This  seemed  to  be  generally  known 
among  the  neighbors,  and  quite  a number  of  persons, 
in  addition  to  the  family,  gathered  around  to  witness 
my  every  movement.  I had  reserved  this  occasion  for 
making  the  distribution  of  my  principal  presents  and 
tokens  of  friendship.  I had  brought  with  me  a quan- 
tity of  tracts  and  Scriptures.  Experience,  however, 
had  taught  me  that  an  indiscriminate  distribution  was 
not  the  best  method  of  putting  them  into  circulation. 
My  method,  therefore,  was  to  bestow  what  I had  to 
give,  as  a recompense  for  favors  I had  received,  or  as 
an  obligation  to  secure  something  that  I requested,  at 
the  same  time  explaining  the  great  advantages  to  be 
derived  from  a proper  use  of  the  gifts  bestowed.  Thus 
I naturally  presented  a Testament  to  the  heads  of  each 
of  the  families  to  which  I had  been  introduced;  a third 
to  the  widow  as  a source  of  consolation  in  her  bereave- 
ment, and  of  wisdom  and  piety  for  her  children ; and  a 
fourth  to  a neighbor  who  had  allowed  me  to  select  a 
quantity  of  specimens  from  a heap  of  madrepora 
which  belonged  to  him.  These  books,  I had  reason 
to  think,  would  be  inquired  after,  and  loaned  to  others, 

p 2 


174 


HABITS  OF  THE  ISLANDERS. 


and  perhaps  eventually  might  make  the  entire  circuit 
of  the  island.  As  to  the  tracts,  of  course  each  of  the 
children,  who  had  assisted  me  in  any  way,  must  have 
a set.  These  they  would  carry  to  school  to  read ; and 
as  more  were  likely  to  be  in  demand  when  others 
should  see  them,  I constituted  my  host,  Senhor  Mar- 
tinho,  a depositary,  with  instructions  to  reward  faith- 
fully all  who  should  assist  in  collecting  a box  of  shells 
to  be  sent  me  at  Pernambuco.  It  is  hardly  necessary 
to  add,  that  I received  many  expressions  of  admira- 
tion and  thankfulness  while  making  such  distribution 
and  arrangements,  and  that  the  box  of  shells  was 
promptly  forwarded. 

Many  remarks  might  be  made  respecting  this  inte- 
resting island.  I shall  only  add  a few  on  the  state  of 
society.  The  great  majority  of  the  inhabitants  are 
watermen,  and  employed  more  or  less  upon  the  fish- 
eries. They  seem  to  abandon  themselves  very  much 
to  the  luck  of  their  profession,  and  to  have  very  little 
idea  of  regular  and  persevering  industry.  What  little 
labor  the  men  perform  on  shore  is  generally  done 
mornings  and  evenings.  After  the  sun’s  rays  begin 
to  be  felt  seriously,  they  may  be  seen  gathering  into 
groups  for  conversation,  or  stretching  themselves  out 
in  the  shade  of  their  trees  and  houses  for  repose.  The 
females  seem  to  be  more  regularly  employed,  and  most 
of  them  add  to  the  very  simple  routine  of  their  domes- 
tic duties  an  almost  uninterrupted  knitting  of  thread 
lace.  A number  of  the  men  own  little  plots  of  ground 
occupied  by  their  hut  and  a few  cocoa-nut  trees;  others 
rent  their  tenements  of  a reserved  proprietor,  at  two 
milreis  per  month.  A considerable  portion  of  the  dis- 
trict of  Pilar  thus  pays  revenue  to  Nossa  Senhora, 


PLEASANT  RECOLLECTIONS. 


175 


having  been  left  as  a legacy  for  the  benefit  of  her 
• church.  I have  mentioned  that  there  are  other  churches 
and  chapels  upon  the  island.  The  vigario,  the  only 
padre  on  the  island,  resides  in  the  villa  at  the  southern 
extremity.  He  divides  his  duties  among  the  different 
mass-houses,  as  their  peculiar  saint’s  days  and  festi- 
vals may  require.  At  the  villa  and  at  Pilar  there  are 
government  primary  schools,  to  which  a respectable 
number  of  children  go  to  learn  reading,  writing,  gram- 
mar and  arithmetic. 

There  is  an  unaffected  simplicity  in  the  manners 
and  habits  of  the  people  of  Itamaraca,  and  the  recol- 
lections of  my  brief  sojourn  among  them  will  long  be 
cherished  with  unmingled  satisfaction. 


176 


VOYAGE  UPON  A JANGADA. 


CHAPTER  X. 

Embarcation  upon  a Jangada. — Manner  of  Navigation. — The  Coast. — 
Tambaiu. — Colloquy  with  a school-bov. — Walk  to  Parahiba. — Feast 
of  the  Patron  Saint. — Fire-works. — The  City. — State  of  Society  in  the 
Sertoens. — Distribution  of  Scriptures. — Franciscan  Convent. — Mira- 
cle.— A Friar. — Monasticism. — A Clerical  Epicure — Utility  of 
War. — Province  of  Parahiba. 

A voyage  at  sea  upon  a jangada  is  not  an  incident 
of  every  day’s  occurrence,  at  least  with  North  Ameri- 
cans. Nor  is  it  easy  to  convey  in  words  a perfect  idea 
of  the  simple  and  singular  structure  by  which  the  sa- 
vages of  Brazil  were  accustomed  to  traverse  the  waters 
of  their  coast  hundreds  of  years  ago.  Although  in 
constant  use  since  the  period  of  discovery,  the  jangada 
has  preserved  its  aboriginal  form  and  style  of  construc- 
tion, and  even  in  this  age  of  improvement  is  not  likely 
to  undergo  any  change  for  the  better.  Properly  speak- 
ing, it  is  merely  a raft,  composed  of  unhewn  logs  of  a 
peculiarly  light  wood,  called  puu  de  jangada.  Trunks 
of  trees  are  selected,  about  six  inches  in  diameter,  as 
nearly  straight  and  uniform  as  possible.  These  are 
stripped  of  bark,  sharpened  at  each  end  so  as  to  cut 
the  water,  and  then  fastened  to  each  other  by  three 
rows  of  transverse  pins.  The  number  of  logs  used  is 
generally  six,  although  I have  seen  them  composed  of 
three,  four,  seven,  and  even  twenty  logs.  These  latter 
are  used  as  lighters  for  unloading  vessels,  and  are 
nearly  square  in  form,  while  the  sailing  jangada  is 
rectangular,  and  generally  about  five  feet  in  width  by 
sixteen  or  twenty  in  length. 


PREPARATION. 


177 


When  about  to  embark  from  Itamaraca,  I found  it 
as  necessary  to  secure  a good  jangada,  as  it  would  be 
in  New  York  to  select  a choice  berth  for  a passage  to 
Liverpool.  The  Paquete  do  Norte  was  recommended 
to  me  as  one  of  the  finest  craft  owned  on  the  island. 
When  I negotiated  for  its  use,  it  stood  high  and  dry 
upon  the  beach  before  the  house  of  its  proprietor, 
ready  for  examination.  It  was  of  good  size,  and  ap- 
peared to  have  seen  no  little  service.  It  was  cum- 
bered with  no  appurtenances  in  the  way  of  masts,  sails, 
or  rigging.  There  stood  the  form  of  bleached  logs, 
having  no  fixtures  upon  them  save  a socket  for  the 
mast,  and  a seat  for  the  steersman.  Two  straight 
sticks,  about  five  feet  high,  stood  in  the  exterior  log  on 
either  side,  within  reach  of  the  steersman’s  seat,  de- 
signed for  the  suspension  of  his  water  gourd  and  bag 
of  provisions. 

On  its  being  chartered  expressly  for  a passenger, 
the  proprietor  proceeded  to  fit  it  out  in  extra  style,  by 
putting  a girau  upon  it.  This  term  girau  is  entirely 
technical,  being  used  to  designate  what  in  English  it 
would  be  difficult  to  name,  unless  it  were  called  a sus- 
pension cabin.  Its  construction  was  in  this  wise:  Two 
strong  poles  were  lashed  one  to  each  of  the  stancheons 
or  sticks  just  mentioned,  at  the  height  of  eighteen 
inches,  and  thence  slanted  forward  till  they  rested  upon 
the  logs  near  the  mast.  Across  these  were  fastened 
boards,  making  a floor.  Over  head  sticks  were  bent 
to  support  a cover,  not  dissimilar  in  appearance  to  that 
of  a traveling  wagon;  thus  a space  was  left  for  the 
passenger  about  three  feet  in  height  by  four  in  width. 
A thick  rush  mat  was  then  spread  on  the  bottom  for  a 
bed,  and  another  over  the  top  as  an  awning,  to  which, 

Vol.  II.— 23 


178 


THE  JANGADA. 


in  case  of  rain,  an  oilcloth  could  be  added,  so  that  all 
might  be  kept  dry.  Thus  rigged,  my  paquete  was 
ready  for  sea.  The  only  additions  needed  for  pur- 
poses of  navigation  were — first,  a setting-pole,  to  push 
oft’  from  shore;  second,  a slender  mast,  and  a three- 
cornered  sail  to  catch  the  breeze;  and  third,  a long, 
broad  oar,  to  serve  as  a rudder.  Its  crew  consisted  of 
two  men,  the  protiro  and  patrdo , or  the  bowsman  and 
steersman. 


JANGADA. 

According  to  previous  arrangement,  I was  aroused 
between  three  and  four  A.  M.  to  proceed  on  my  voyage. 
Notwithstanding  my  request  that  the  family  would  not 
allow  themselves  to  be  disturbed,  nearly  all  of  them, 
and  some  of  their  neighbors  beside,  arose  to  bid  me  a 
final  good  bye.  We  set  sail  by  moonlight,  with  a tole- 
rable breeze  from  the  land.  On  entering  my  state- 


THE  COAST. 


179 


room  I spread  out  iny  cloak  as  an  addition  to  the  bed, 
arranged  my  valice  as  a bolster,  and  my  inflated  air- 
belt  as  a pillow,  and  thought  of  continuing  my  slum- 
bers. Such,  however,  was  the  fragrant  coolness  of  the 
morning,  and  the  charming  lustre  of  moonlight  upon 
the  waters,  that  I issued  forth  to  contemplate  the  scene 
around  me.  Our  course  did  not  lead  outside  the  reef, 
consequently  the  surface  was  smooth,  and  the  water 
shoal.  The  island  was  soon  left  in  the  distance,  and 
we  passed  successively  the  Barra,  Ponta  das  Pedras. 
Barra  de  Goyanna,  Guagirii,  Pitimbu,  &c.  &c. 

We  came  olF  Guagirii  just  as  the  sun  rose,  and  were 
delighted  with  its  neat  and  cheerful  appearance.  Every 
village  upon  the  coast  is  adorned  by  its  grove  of  co- 
queiros.  These  useful  trees  do  not  grow  spontaneously. 
They  require  to  be  planted  and  watered  with  care  for 
a considerable  time.  Hence,  whenever  a cluster  of 
them  appears,  either  to  the  voyager  on  the  coast  or  to 
the  traveler  in  the  interior,  it  is  taken  as  designating 
the  habitations  of  men.  I was  pleased  with  observing 
such  clusters  at  frequent  intervals  along  the  beach,  in 
the  sands  of  which  they  flourish  more  than  in  richer 
soil.  The  village  just  referred  to,  might  have  con- 
tained two  hundred  inhabitants.  It  had  a good  pro- 
portion of  houses,  with  tiled  roofs,  and  a respectable 
chapel.  In  front  of  it  were  several  jangadas  employed 
in  fishing.  We  often  passed  so  close  in  as  to  observe 
distinctly  the  shore  and  whatever  might  be  upon  it. 
The  whole  length  of  coast  traversed  in  the  course  of 
the  day,  seemed  to  be  divided  at  about  equal  intervals 
between  sandy  beaches  sloping  gradually  inward,  and 
perpendicular  bluffs  of  red  marly  soil,  crowned  with 
shrubs  quite  to  their  verge.  The  height  of  these  bluffs 


ISO 


SAFETY  OF  THE  JANGADA. 


above  the  water,  varied  between  twenty  and  sixty  feet, 
the  sections  exhibiting  beautifully  arranged  strata  of 
different  colored  earths.  Along  this  coast  several  sea- 
fights  had  occurred  during  the  early  wars. 

My  navigators  on  this  voyage  were  very  civil  and 
quiet.  They  were  both  freemen  and  citizens  of  Ita- 
maraca.  They  seemed  to  understand  their  business, 
and  to  be  willing  to  do  it.  I thought  them  very  ven- 
turesome occasionally,  as  they  would  run  their  jangada 
directly  over  the  long  pointed  stakes  of  the  curraes  de 
peixe,  which  often  stood  bare  as  the  waves  receded  be- 
fore us.  But  they  so  managed,  as  in  every  instance 
to  mount  the  swell  and  ride  safely  over  them.  The 
liability  to  get  afoul  of  these  stakes  is  one  of  the  great- 
est dangers  of  this  navigation,  especially  in  the  night. 
They  often  stand  a long  way  out  from  shore,  and  might 
not  be  seen  until  they  had  impaled  a jangada,  or  split 
it  in  pieces.  Through  the  care  of  a kind  Providence, 
we  suffered  no  injury  from  them  or  any  other  cause.  I 
frequently  reflected  during  the  passage,  that  we  were 
not  exposed  to  a catalogue  of  accidents  which  are  very 
formidable  to  vessels  of  greater  dimensions.  Our  raft 
would  not  easily  capsize  or  go  to  the  bottom ; and  as 
to  springing  aleak,  there  was  the  same  chance  for  the 
water  to  run  out  as  to  run  in.  The  danger,  however, 
of  falling  off  or  being  washed  overhoard  was  not  so 
small.  And  since  we  could  look  directly  through  the 
bottom  of  our  buoyant  bark  into  the  depths  beneath, 
we  could  not  say  that  that  there  was  even  a plank  be- 
tween us  and  death.  During  most  of  the  day  I kept 
possession  of  my  cabin,  and  as  it  was  open  at  either 
end,  I found  that  I could  observe  the  scene  as  well 
from  within  as  when  on  deck.  The  weather,  which  is 


COLLOQUY  WITH  A SCHOOL-BOY.  181 

always  the  subject  of  first  importance  at  sea,  was  fine, 
and  I spent  my  time  agreeably. 

About  four  o’clock  we  doubled  Cape  Blanco,  and 
had  Tambaiu,  the  place  of  our  destination,  about  one 
league  directly  ahead.  By  landing  at  this  place,  which 
is  only  six  miles  from  Parahiba,  we  saved  thirty  or 
forty  miles’  difficult  navigation  around  Point  Cabedello, 
and  thence  up  the  windings  of  the  Parahiba  river.  We 
were  soon  on  shore,  and  my  inquiries  were  in  the  first 
instance  for  a horse,  having  been  assured  that  twenty 
horses  might  be  procured  there  with  all  ease.  It  ap- 
peared, however,  that  but  one  was  owned  in  the  place, 
and  neither  he  nor  his  proprietor  was  at  hand.  Upon 
this  intelligence  my  plans  were  very  soon  settled,  and 
while  requisition  was  made  for  a person  to  take  up  my 
portmanteau  and  bundles,  I seated  myself  upon  a log 
to  eat  my  dinner,  which  fortunately  had  been  provided 
before  sailing  and  brought  along.  A lad,  fourteen  or 
sixteen  years  of  age,  from  some  motive  of  benevolence 
or  curiosity,  seated  himself  near  by,  and  a conversation 
ensued  in  something  like  the  following  terms. 

“Have  you  any  school  in  this  vicinity?” 

“Yes,  one.” 

“ Where  is  it?” 

“In  the  palace.” 

“How  many  attend  it?” 

“Don’t  know;  about  three  benches  full.” 

“Do  you  go  at  present?” 

“No,  I finished  last  year.” 

“Do  you  know  how  to  write?” 

“No,  nor  to  read  either.” 

“What  then  did  you  learn  at  school?” 

“ Nada /” — “Nothing  at  all!” 

Q 


182 


WALK  TO  PARAH1BA. 


I had  no  reason  to  doubt  the  last  affirmation,  al- 
though I was  pained  to  witness  such  stupid  indifference 
to  the  means  of  education  which  the  government  has, 
by  a liberal  but  somewhat  erroneous  policy,  provided 
for  its  subjects,  both  high  and  low.  This  genius  after- 
wards informed  me,  that  on  leaving  school  he  had 
turned  his  attention  to  fishing.  He  was  the  youngest 
of  several  brothers,  of  attainments  equal  to  his  own. 
Not  one  of  the  family  could  read,  although,  judging 
from  the  house  they  occupied  on  the  beach,  they  must 
have  been  in  as  good  circumstances  as  their  neighbors. 

I finally  gave  him  one  or  two  tracts,  in  hope  they 
would  induce  him  to  inquire  into  the  mysteries  of  writ- 
ten language,  or  at  least,  that  some  of  his  friends 
might  be  benefited  by  them. 

My  companlieiros  de  viagem  having  determined  to 
walk  up  to  the  city  in  my  company,  they  proposed  to 
carry  my  baggage,  and  divide  between  themselves  the 
price  offered.  This  suited  me,  and  we  started  off.  I 
had  worn  my  tall  Paulista  boots  on  board  the  jangada, 
to  protect  myself  from  an  occasional  wave,  and  I now 
proved  their  value  on  shore ; for  although  we  were  on 
a royal  road  (estrada  real)  we  were  obliged  to  wade 
streams  repeatedly. 

On  leaving  the  sandy  regions  of  the  beach  this  road 
became  very  pleasant,  although  it  was  a mere  path 
winding  through  an  almost  continuous  forest.  After 
the  day’s  confinement  within  the  narrow  compass  of 
my  girau,  walking  was  agreeable.  The  six  miles  soon 
disappeared  behind  us,  and  we  began  entering  the  sub- 
urbs of  the  city  before  we  were  really  aware  of  it.  On 
inquiring  for  an  English  gentlemen  to  whom  I had  a 
letter,  I was  directed  to  his  sitio,  near  where  I entered 


MR.  R.  S SITIO. 


183 


the  town,  and  finding  him  at  home,  was  once  more 
welcomed  to  the  hospitalities,  I like  to  have  said,  of  a 
fellow  countryman,  for  such  truly  do  Englishmen  ap- 
pear and  prove  to  us  when  abroad.  The  sitio  of  3Ir. 
R.,  which  at  Bahia  would  be  called  a roca,  and  at  Rio 
de  Janeiro  a chacara,  occupies  the  finest  locality  in 
Parahiba.  It  is  situated  on  the  brow  of  the  hill,  within 
the  bounds  of  the  upper  town,  and  commands  a view 
of  the  ocean  on  the  north,  the  cape  and  Fort  Cabe- 
dello,  the  mouth  and  course  of  the  river,  up  to  the 
shipping  before  the  lower  town,  including  at  the  same 
moment  a boundless  and  diversified  landscape.  The 
view  from  this  place  often  reminded  me  of  the  far- 
stretching  plains  lying  west  of  the  Genesee  river,  as 
seen  particularly  from  West  Avon.  Mr.  R.  was  giving 
especial  attention  to  the  cultivation  of  his  grounds,  and 
planting  many  coffee  trees,  which,  although  they  grow 
and  produce  luxuriantly,  are  but  rarely  found  in  any 
of  the  northern  provinces.  It  is  a singular  circum- 
stance, that  coffee  is  retailed  at  a higher  price  in  Per- 
nambuco than  in  the  United  States.  Orange  trees 
suffer  very  much  from  the  depredations  of  the  ants, 
being  sometimes  stripped  of  their  entire  foliage  in  a 
single  night.  When  a tree  has  thus  been  visited  three 
successive  times,  it  does  not  survive.  My  friend  also 
had  many  of  these  invaluable  fruit  trees,  while  his 
place  furnished  a vegetable  garden,  fine  springs  of 
water,  a yard  of  cows,  and  other  valuable  appendages 
of  rural  life,  so  that  he  might  be  truly  said  to  have  rus 
in  urbe,  “a  farm  in  the  city.”  The  house  was  large 
and  airy,  with  brick  floors,  latticed  windows,  and  no 
ceiling  above,  save  in  the  parlor. 

Here  it  was  that  I very  thankfully  composed  myself 


184 


RELIGIOUS  VIEWS  AND  PRACTICES. 


to  a quiet  rest  on  Saturday  evening.  Sunday  I was 
invited  to  ride,  but  preferred  the  retirement  and  read- 
ing more  appropriate  to  the  day.  A gentleman  dined 
with  us,  who,  as  well  as  Mr.  R.,  informed  me  that  a 
number  of  Bibles,  being  part  of  grants  sent  out  from 
England  to  Pernambuco,  had  been  some  years  since 
distributed  in  the  province.  The  former  had  conversed 
with  various  individuals  possessing  them.  He  said 
they  did  not  seem  to  attach  the  idea  of  sacredness  to 
the  book,  perhaps  from  the  fact  that  it  bears  no  evi- 
dent connection  with  the  religion  which  they  have  been 
taught.  They  had  referred  him  to  some  parts  as  beau- 
tiful, and  to  others  as  subject  to  criticism.  The  last 
mentioned  places  were  generally  in  the  Old  Testa- 
ment. 

He  thought  the  reason  why  no  decidedly  good  effect 
was  apparent,  was  much  owing  to  the  course  of  their 
religious  teachers  in  substituting  the  commandments 
of  men  for  the  living  oracles.  I was  informed  that  the 
present  was  the  greatest  season  of  religious  feasting 
which  occurs  at  Parahiba  during  the  whole  year,  the 
5th  of  August  being  the  day  of  Nossa  Senhora  das  Neves, 
the  protectress  of  the  town.  I inquired  who  Nossa 
Senhora  das  Neves  was,  but  no  one  could  tell  me  any 
thing  more  than  that  she  was  Nossa  Senhora,  the  same 
with  Nossa  Senhora  da  Concci^ao,  Nossa  Senhora  do 
Rozario,  and  a score  of  other  names  for  the  Virgin 
Mary!  I doubt  whether  the  mythology  of  Greece  or 
Rome  ever  became  more  absurdly  confused. 

This  anniversary,  like  all  other  great  feast  days, 
was  preceded  by  a novena , a service  of  nine  masses 
performed  on  as  many  successive  days.  Each  of  these 
nine  evenings  had  its  peculiar  entertainment,  being 


DESECRATION  OF  THE  SABBATH. 


1S5 


allotted  to  some  body  of  citizens  or  tradesmen,  each 
of  which  would,  of  course,  be  anxious  to  rival  the  other 
in  the  pomp  and  parade  of  their  several  performances. 
I was  induced  to  walk  out  in  the  evening  to  witness 
what  was  thought  could  not  fail  to  be  deeply  interest- 
ing. The  Matrix  church,  at  which  the  fete  was  held, 
was  situated  near  by.  It  stood  at  one  end  of  an  oblong 
area.  Its  front  was  illuminated  by  candles  hung  in 
broken  lanterns  around  the  door,  and  burning  before 
an  image  in  a niche  attached  to  the  cupola.  Large 
fires  were  blazing  in  different  parts  of  the  area. 
Around  them  were  groups  of  blacks,  eager  to  fire  off 
volleys  of  rockets  at  appropriate  parts  of  the  service 
that  was  going  on  within  the  church.  After  the  no- 
vena was  finished,  all  the  people  sallied  out  into  the 
campo  to  witness  the  fire-works.  These  commenced 
about  nine  o’clock,  and  continued,  I was  told,  till  after 
midnight.  What  I saw  of  them  was  exceedingly  ill- 
contrived,  and  bunglingly  executed;  nevertheless  all 
seemed  to  pass  off  to  the  admiration  of  the  crowd,  and 
certainly  with  its  thundering  applause. 

Had  this  been  a scene  of  professed  diversion  for  a 
company  of  rude  and  ignorant  Africans,  it  would  have 
been  more  sufferable.  But  professing  to  be  part  of  a 
religious  service,  (honra  a Nossa  Senhora  Padroeira,) 
performed  on  God’s  holy  day,  and  joined  in  with  en- 
thusiasm by  priests,  monks,  and  people,  I confess  it 
shocked  my  feelings  in  the  extreme,  and  I wished 
myself  almost  any  where  rather  than  witnessing  it. 

One  of  the  most  painful  impressions  of  the  scene 
arose  from  seeing  whole  families,  including  mothers 
and  their  daughters,  out  in  the  damp  night  air  to  gaze 
upon  spectacles  not  only  partaking  of  the  most  low  and 

Vol.  II.— 24  ft  2 


186 


A RIDE  IN  THE  COUNTRY. 


vulgar  species  of  the  ludicrous,  but  having  a decidedly 
immoral  tendency — and  all  this  under  the  name  of 
religion!  I was  glad  to  retire  as  early  as  those  who 
accompanied  me  would  consent  to  go,  resolving  never 
again  voluntarily  to  witness  such  profanations  of  the 
Sabbath. 

The  next  day  I had  the  pleasure  of  a ride  on  horse- 
back, accompanied  by  my  host,  Mr.  R.  We  passed 
through  the  principal  streets  of  the  upper  town,  in 
which  are  the  convents,  the  prison,  misericordia,  trea- 
sury, palace  of  the  governor,  and  several  churches. 
Thence  we  passed  out  on  the  road  leading  towards 
Pernambuco,  about  three  miles,  to  a large  cruzeiro , 
called  cruz  das  almas,  cross  of  souls.  Here  we  turned 
to  the  right,  and  descended  to  the  low  grounds  on  the 
bank  of  the  river,  which  we  followed  back  to  the  lower 
town.  The  river  is  very  winding,  and  is  not  naviga- 
ble beyond  the  present  anchorage.  Canoes  go  up  a 
long  distance,  although  in  the  summer  season  the  bed 
of  the  river  becomes  dry  beyond  twenty  leagues.  Its 
prevailing  course  is  north-west,  and  the  town  is  situ- 
ated upon  the  southern  bank.  One  of  the  finest 
buildings  it  contains  is  a new  trapiche,  or  government 
warehouse.  In  front  of  it  three  English  vessels  were 
anchored,  loading  with  cotton  and  Brazil-wood.  They 
were  the  only  vessels  in  port. 

Extending  up  from  the  river  are  two  streets,  con- 
taining the  principal  buildings  and  commercial  estab- 
lishments of  the  lower  town.  This  part  of  the  city 
seemed  to  be  improving.  Several  buildings  were  in 
process  of  erection,  rents  were  high,  and  real  estate 
had  recently  been  on  the  rise.  The  number  of  in- 
habitants was,  however,  less  than  in  the  upper  town. 


DEPRAVED  STATE  OF  MORALS. 


187 


The  elevation  of  the  latter  may  be  two  hundred  feet, 
the  declivity  separating  them  being  rather  abrupt. 
One  of  the  most  beautiful  locations  in  the  place  is 
occupied  by  the  military  arsenal,  a large  yellow  build- 
ing, in  the  midst  of  a level  area  between  the  two  towns, 
and  fronting  the  principal  street  connecting  them.  The 
public  edifices  of  the  upper  town,  before  enumerated, 
do  not  differ  materially  from  the  style  usual  in  the 
Brazilian  cities,  unless  I should  mention  the  treasury, 
which  exhibits  a considerable  effort  at  ornament  on  a 
flight  of  steps  by  which  it  is  entered.  The  prison  bore 
a date  indicating  it  to  be  of  more  than  a century’s 
standing.  The  streets  are  wide,  and  paved  with  a 
species  of  argillaceous  clay  slate.  The  stones  were 
much  worn.  Some  of  the  old  gelousias,  supported  by 
projecting  cornices  of  thick  carved  stone,  are  seen  at 
Parahiba,  and  the  general  aspect  of  the  town  is  quite 
ancient. 

I met  with  a gentleman  just  returned  from  a jour- 
ney of  ten  or  twelve  days’  ride  into  the  interior.  He 
described  the  state  of  morals  and  civilization  in  the 
sertoens  of  this  province,  and  of  Rio  Grande  do  Norte, 
as  shocking  in  the  extreme.  It  was,  moreover,  in  his 
view  daily  deteriorating.  In  those  wild  and  thinly 
populated  regions,  where  the  traveler  ferrets  out  his 
lonely  path  through  the  forests  for  leagues  upon  leagues 
without  seeing  a habitation,  it  would  be  natural  to 
suppose  that  among  the  few  existing  inhabitants  there 
would  prevail  great  fraternal  love  and  harmony,  espe- 
cially in  view  of  their  all  being  bound  together  in  the 
unity  of  the  one  church,  at  whose  shrines  they  are  all 
baptized  and  all  confess.  Yet,  unhappily,  intrigue, 
discord  and  murder,  seem  to  be  the  order  of  the  day. 


188 


DISTRIBUTION  OF  SCRIPTURES. 


Revenge  arrogates  to  itself  the  administration  of  jus- 
tice, and  crime  of  the  deepest  dye  tramples  upon  law, 
and  sets  its  execution  at  defiance.  The  most  trifling 
affront  is  followed  by  murder,  and  any  man’s  life  may 
be  sold  to  hireling  assassins  for  a pitiful  sum. 

A list  of  recent  and  common-place  occurrences  was 
related  in  corroboration  of  his  views.  One  person  was 
dunned  by  another  for  “a  charge  of  powder”  he  had 
borrowed,  and  becoming  angry,  threatened  to  shoot 
his  creditor,  which  threat  he  executed  as  the  latter 
turned  to  escape.  Another  committed  murder  to  avoid 
paying  a debt  of  sixteen  milreis.  A third,  in  open 
daylight,  in  the  midst  of  a village,  and  in  front  of  a 
church,  stabbed  to  the  heart  a real  or  supposed  enemy. 
His  victim  was  the  father  of  a family,  and  at  the  mo- 
ment was  leading  a little  son  by  the  hand  whom  the 
fiendish  murderer  also  thrust  through,  saying,  “ Rather 
than  live  to  revenge  the  death  of  your  father  you  shall 
die  also.”  The  only  punishment  this  individual  had 
received,  was  several  retaliatory  wounds  from  some 
one  with  the  intent  to  kill,  and  supposed,  at  the  time, 
to  be  fatal,  but  from  which  he  is  said  to  be  recovering. 

Having  had  several  applications  for  tracts  and  Tes- 
taments, I made  arrangements  for  the  distribution  of 
all  I had,  principally  by  means  of  persons  who  wished 
to  present  them  to  their  friends,  some  of  whom  lived 
a long  way  in  the  interior.  One  gentleman,  a doctor, 
from  Camaratuba,  a place  in  the  interior  opposite 
Bahia  dc  Trahisdo,  seeing  a Testament  which  I had 
presented  Mr.  R.,  insisted  on  having  the  opportunity 
of  purchasing  it.  He  said  he  had  seen  the  Bible,  from 
time  to  time,  but  had  never  been  able  to  read  it  as  he 
wished,  lie  thought  highly  of  the  tracts  also,  and 


FRANCISCAN  CONVENT. 


189 


believed  them  much  needed  in  a country  like  this, 
where  religion  was  so  generally  trodden  under  foot. 

One  day  after  dinner  I took  a walk  with  a young 
Brazilian  student  to  the  Franciscan  convent,  the  most 
interesting  and  costly  public  building  of  the  place. 
It  is  fronted  by  a paved  yard,  with  high  walls  on  either 
side,  on  which,  as  on  both  the  exterior  and  interior 
walls  of  many  similar  edifices,  appear  various  figures 
and  representations  on  porcelain  or  glazed  earthen 
tiles.  At  the  extreme  end  of  this  yard  stands  an  im- 
mense cruzeiro  of  stone,  upon  a well-proportioned 
pedestal  of  the  same  material.  Within,  the  edifice  is 
spacious  and  well  built.  It  consists,  as  usual,  of  a large 
chapel,  and  rows  of  cells  extending  around  a square 
court-yard,  with  a broad  piazza  upon  both  the  upper 
and  lower  floors,  besides  more  or  less  rooms  for  the 
ordinary  purposes  of  such  an  establishment.  The 
walls  were  hung  with  various  pictures,  mostly  rude 
and  falling  into  decay.  Several  of  them  had  the  very 
necessary,  though  not  common,  appendage  of  an  ex- 
planation of  their  design. 

As  a general  thing,  the  configurations  with  which 
these  monasteries  are  filled,  from  the  vaulted  ceiling 
of  their  chapel  downwards,  are  more  unintelligible 
than  hieroglyphics.  One  can  decipher  cowled  monks, 
mitred  bishops,  apparitions  of  angels,  and  the  like. 
But  when  he  asks  for  further  explanation,  he  is  told 
that  the  subject  of  the  representation  is  the  miracles 
and  wonderful  deeds  of  the  patron  saint  and  his  fol- 
lowers. I observed  that  even  here,  where  the  Fran- 
ciscans have  never  been  followed  by  their  “beloved 
brethren”  the  Dominicans,  nevertheless  they  do  not 
forget  them.  In  one  large  picture,  a Dominican  was 


190 


VISIT  TO  A FRIAR. 


represented  as  confounded  before  a Franciscan,  who, 
in  attestation  of  his  arguments  to  prove  the  perpetual 
virginity  of  the  virgin  Mary,  smote  his  cane  upon  the 
ground,  and  straightway  there  sprang  up  three  flowers 
in  miraculous  corroboration  of  his  doctrines  ! 

I was  presented  by  my  friend  to  an  acquaintance  of 
his,  a friar  of  some  literary  pretensions,  who  was  stu- 
dying English,  in  order  to  qualify  himself  to  obtain  the 
professorship  of  that  language  iu  the  Lyceum  of  the 
place.  The  said  friar  introduced  us  to  his  cubiculo  or 
cell.  It  was  a snug  little  room,  containing  a bed, 
table,  bookcase,  and  a few  chairs.  We  here  had  a 
friendly  conversation.  The  monk  had  never  heard 
of  such  an  institution  as  the  Bible  Society!  I con- 
gratulated him  that,  through  the  medium  of  the  Eng- 
lish language,  he  might  easily  acquaint  himself  with 
the  efforts  of  not  only  that,  but  of  many  other  enter- 
prises of  equally  worthy  objects.  He  apprehended, 
however,  that  the  Bible  and  tracts  which  I recom- 
mended, were  the  same  with  those  that  the  bishop  of 
Pernambuco  disliked,  and  by  means  of  which  Padre 

had  become  a Protestant.  I learned  that  from 

some  cause  or  other  this  friar  neither  ate  with  his 
brethren,  nor  slept  within  the  walls  of  the  convent,  but 
lived  with  his  father  near  by.  There  were  six  friars 
belonging  to  the  establishment.  It  was  large  enough 
to  accommodate  two  hundred. 

As  I walked  through  its  lonely  halls,  there  came 
over  me  a mournful  sense  of  that  delusion,  by  which 
countless  sums  of  money  have  been  thrown  away  upon 
convents  in  every  town  of  this  unexplored  and  unim- 
proved country.  A religious  end  they  never  answered ; 
they  are  standing  monuments  of  an  extravagant  and 


FRIARS — THE  PRISON'. 


191 


mistaken  zeal.  The  government  has  shown  its  dis- 
cretion by  appropriating  them  to  purposes  of  business 
and  utility  wherever  it  has  had  occasion;  and  if,  at 
the  end  of  another  century,  many  of  them  are  other 
than  heaps  of  ruins,  it  will  be  owing  to  the  policy  of 
the  state.  This  province,  following  the  example 
of  some  others,  has  given  each  convent  the  privilege 
of  matriculating  nine  novices — hitherto,  I was  happy 
to  learn,  without  effect.  “ Ninguem  quer  ser  frade” — 
“Nobody  wishes  to  be  a friar,”  is  the  common  remark. 
Although  a life  of  ease  and  virtual  opulence  would 
thereby  be  secured,  yet  such  was  the  public  and  pri- 
vate dislike  of  monasticism,  that,  as  yet,  no  one  was 
willing  to  share  its  inglorious  spoils. 

The  monastery  of  San  Bento  is  smaller  and  more 
ancient,  with  only  a single  tenant,  the  abbot.  This  or- 
der here,  as  in  almost  every  place  where  it  is  establish- 
ed, possesses  engenhos  with  slaves  and  large  landed 
property  in  the  vicinity.  The  Carmo  convent  was  with- 
out an  inhabitant,  save  some  troops  quartered  in  it. 
The  prior  had  recently  deceased.  He  was  described 
as  a notorious  bon  vivant,  answering  fully  the  idea  of  a 
“jolly  fat  friar.”  He  had  given  a dinner  which  had 
passed  off  with  some  glee,  and  said  he  would  have  a 
second  part  or  supplement  to  it  shortly  after.  Ac- 
cordingly, he  sallied  out  the  next  day  to  purchase  the 
requisite  wines.  But,  before  his  return,  he  was  at- 
tacked with  a rush  of  blood  upon  the  brain,  which  soon 
carried  him  off. 

As  I one  day  passed  by  the  prison  it  appeared  to 
be  full,  both  above  and  below;  and,  to  judge  from  the 
loud  talking  and  laughing  within,  it  might  have  been 
taken  for  a place  of  amusement. 


192 


ASSASSINATION. 


The  recent  wars  are  said  to  have  benefited  the 
country  at  least  in  one  respect.  Numbers  of  indolent 
and  vicious  persons  have  been  drafted  into  the  service, 
and  society  thereby  rid  of  a plague.  The  occasion  of 
the  late  fire-works  was  improved  for  pressing  soldiers. 
Notwithstanding  all,  however,  there  is  evidence  that 
quite  too  many  villains  are  at  large.  But  a few  weeks 
before,  a man  suddenly  disappeared  out  of  a public 
street,  where  he  had  been  seen  at  two  o’clock  P.  M.,  on 
his  way  to  dine,  and  was  not  heard  of  again  till,  four 
days  afterward,  his  body  was  found  by  accident  in  the 
river.  He  had  probably  been  decoyed  into  a house 
where  assassins  were  waiting  for  him,  as  he  was 
found  to  have  been  stabbed,  and  then  conveyed  to  the 
water  some  three-fourths  of  a mile  distant.  This  was 
an  event  calculated  to  horrify  every  person  who  heard 
of  it,  and  to  carry  consternation  through  the  town ; 
nevertheless,  nothing  effectual  had  been  done  to  ap- 
prehend and  punish  the  offenders.  At  first,  consider- 
able noise  had  been  made  by  certain  officers  of  the 
police,  who,  it  was  thought,  thereby  received  some 
threats  or  other  reasons  for  being  easily  satisfied.  So 
the  matter  rested,  with  the  imprisonment  of  some  sus- 
pected persons,  who  were  soon  released  without  any 
trial. 

The  soil  of  Parahiba  is  in  several  respects  similar 
to  that  of  San  Paulo;  also,  the  situation  of  the  town 
upon  the  bank  of  a stream.  Here,  however,  several 
kinds  of  stone  appear  which  I had  not  before  met  with 
in  the  country.  In  addition  to  the  clay-slate  mentioned 
as  used  in  paving  the  streets,  there  is  limestone  of  a 
greenish  color.  It  is  hard,  and  used  for  building,  like 
the  granite  in  Rio.  It  is  broken  into  fine  pieces  and 


SUGAR  ESTATES. 


193 


then  laid  in  mortar,  forming  a very  durable  wall. 
Cotton  and  sugar  are  the  principal  exports  of  this 
province.  The  sugar  estates  do  not.  extend  far  to- 
wards the  interior,  on  account  of  the  expense  of  con- 
ducting their  products  to  market.  What  sugar  is 
made  from  beyond  the  circuit  of  from  fifteen  to  twenty 
leagues  is  consumed  in  the  form  of  rapadura,  as  the 
unclarified  article  is  denominated.  It  is  generally  cast 
into  small  cakes.  These  cakes  resemble  those  of  ma- 
ple sugar,  which  are  occasionally  sold  as  a rarity  in 
the  towns  of  the  United  States.  They  are  much  es- 
teemed in  the  sertoens,  where  they  are  taken  in  the 
mouth  before  drinking  water,  to  relieve  its  brackish 
taste.  I was  sorry  to  be  informed  that  both  the  manu- 
facture and  consumption  of  caxaca  seemed  to  be  on 
the  increase.  It  was  sold  in  a great  proportion  of  the 
houses  in  the  suburbs  of  towns,  and  also  upon  the 
highway,  wherever  I traveled.  I saw  in  several  in- 
stances the  sertanejos  or  mulattoes  quite  intoxicated. 
At  such  times  their  company  is  by  no  means  inviting, 
carrying,  as  they  always  do,  a pointed  knife. 

The  chief  peculiarity  which  I observed  at  the  table 
in  these  regions  was  a fondness  for  peppers,  which, 
even  in  Brazil,  might  be  considered  extreme.  In  ad- 
dition to  being  bountifully  served  up  in  every  dish,  a 
pure  decoction  of  this  vegetable,  in  the  form  of  gravy, 
containing  sufficient  fire  to  consume  an  unpractised 
palate,  was  deemed  an  essential  dressing. 

Farinha  tie  mandioca  was  much  used,  with  a prepa- 
ration of  oil,  pepper  and  vinegar,  called  farrofa. 

A great  many  persons  of  Indian  descent  are  seen  in 
Parahiba,  although  it  is  often  difficult  to  distinguish 
them  from  the  Portuguese  on  the  one  hand  and  the 

Vol.  II. — 25  R 


194 


SERPENTS. 


negroes  on  the  other,  with  both  of  which  races  they  are 
amalgamated  in  every  possible  degree. 

In  the  vicinity  of  Parahiba  there  are  serpents  of  an 
immense  size,  called  cobras  de  Veado , from  the  fact 
that  they  swallow  deer,  and  sometimes,  it  is  said,  even 
cattle.  Venomous  serpents  are  also  common:  one 
species  is  said  to  have  two  heads,  and  is  blind.  Blind- 
ness and  subsequent  death  follow  the  bite  of  this 
reptile. 


A GUIDE  PROCURED. 


195 


CHAPTER  XI. 

Return  Journey  to  Pernambuco. — Guide  Pacifico. — Set  out  by  Night. 
— Friends  by  the  way. — The  Champagne. — Goyanna. — Quarters  for 
the  Night. — Journey  resumed. — Sertanejos. — Cotton  Carriers. — 
Cattle  Fair. — Pasmodo. — Sun-dial. — Iguarassu. — Rio  Grandenses  do 
Norte. — The  Mails. — Bad  Roads. — Night  in  Olinda. — Early  Ride  — 
Half  an  hour  too  late. 

In  the  course  of  a few  days  it  became  necessary  for 
ine  to  think  of  returning  to  Pernambuco.  As  I in- 
tended to  return  by  the  land  route,  horses  and  a guide 
were  necessarily  to  be  secured.  A certain  mulatto, 
named  Pacifico,  was  recommended  to  me  as  the  best 
portador  or  guide  to  be  obtained.  Some  friends  ac- 
cordingly rode  with  me  to  the  place  where  he  lived, 
and  which  he  styled  his  sitio.  It  was  several  miles 
distant  from  the  city,  in  a most  desolate  looking  spot. 
The  house  was  a mere  ruin,  of  one  of  the  smallest  and 
poorest  kind  of  hovels.  At  this  place  the  wife  and  five 
children  of  Pacifico  were  found ; the  Senhor  was  ab- 
sent. His  better  half,  however,  pledged  him  and  two 
good  horses  to  be  on  hand  for  my  journey  early  on  a 
given  morning.  The  morning  came,  but  no  Pacifico 
made  his  appearance;  accordingly,  Mr.  R.  rode  with 
me  to  look  him  up.  He  was  found  this  time  in  his 
sitio.  He  made  many  apologies  for  the  misunder- 
standing, promising  to  bring  me  a good  horse  early 
the  next  morning,  and  come  properly  mounted  him- 
self. I may  here  remark  that  many  of  the  horses 
in  those  parts  are  truly  superior  both  in  size  and  con- 


196 


SET  OUT  BY  MIGHT. 


dition.  The  saddle-horses,  almost  universally,  have  a 
carrcga  or  ambling  pace. 

The  next  morning  I was  called  about  three  o’clock, 
Senhor  Pacifico  having  appeared  according  to  promise. 
Before  starting,  I took  leave  of  my  hospitable  friend, 
who  to  the  last  moment  was  attentive  to  every  thing 
that  could  promote  my  convenience  or  comfort.  He 
had  also  furnished  me  with  letters  to  families  on  the 
road,  and  given  every  requisite  instruction  for  the 
journey. 

I was  disposed  to  examine  the  horse  brought  for  my 
use,  hut  as  there  was  no  moon,  the  starlight  was  insuf- 
ficent.  Notwithstanding  some  presentiments  that  the 
real  character  of  the  animal  would  fall  somewhat  short 
of  the  numberless  eulogiums  which  were  heaped  upon 
him,  I mounted,  and  we  were  soon  upon  the  road.  All 
was  silence  in  the  town,  except  at  the  prison,  where 
guards  were  pacing  in  front,  and  loud  voices  of  min- 
gled merriment  and  blasphemy  were  heard  within. 

On  entering  the  first  piece  of  woods,  we  passed  two 
men  armed  with  swords  and  guns,  of  whom  I had  no 
very  favorable  impressions,  although  they  were  talk- 
ing cheerfully,  and  did  not  molest  us.  Pacifico  after- 
wards told  me  that  they  were  hunters,  on  their  way 
to  secure  game,  (biclio  do  matto.)  By  and  by  the  sky 
began  to  redden,  and  daylight  soon  appeared.  I now 
had  an  opportunity  of  observing  our  condition  and  ap- 
pearance. I found  myself  to  be  astride  of  a genuine 
Rosinante,  whose  beauties  and  whose  virtues  would 
not  have  suffered  in  comparison  with  those  of  the  ori- 
ginal steed  of  the  knight  of  La  Mancha.  At  the  same 
time,  the  horse  of  my  man  Pacifico  was  a worthy 
companion.  Although  possessed  of  but  one  eye,  he 


MORNING  RIDE. 


197 


threaded  the  mazes  of  our  winding  way  to  admiration. 
To  have  seen  him,  one  would  scarcely  have  believed 
that  he  could  stand  alone;  yet  he  bore  up  gaily  under 
his  rider,  mounted  on  the  top  of  a huge  cangaia  or 
pack-saddle,  within  the  precints  of  which  were  lodged 
my  cloak  and  portmanteau.  Presently  a circumstance 
occurred  that  gave  me  new  ideas  of  the  powers  of  my 
animal,  accompanied  with  great  thankfulness  that  it 
had  not  taken  place  sooner.  Without  any  apparent 
cause,  he  suddenly  commenced  kicking  “high  in  air.’' 
Not  knowing  how  to  interpret  this  demonstration,  I 
urged  him  forward,  thinking  he  would  have  need  of 
all  the  strength  he  possessed  before  the  journey  was 
completed.  But  the  same  movements  were  repeated, 
and  by  and  by,  he  laid  himself  down  in  the  road.  It 
was  then  found  that  the  saddle  was  pressing  upon 
parts  of  his  back  that  had  been  severely  galled  some 
time  before.  To  remedy  this  injury,  Pacifico  transferred 
a mat  from  his  cangaia , which  fortunately  answered  the 
purpose,  and  we  passed  on  without  farther  interrup- 
tions of  that  sort. 

Several  showers  occurred  during  the  morning ; and 
between  bridgeless  rivers  and  wet  bushes,  through 
which  we  were  constantly  passing,  my  feet  became 
very  wet,  notwithstanding  my  high  boots.  At  the  dis- 
tance of  four  leagues,  we  passed  through  an  Indian 
village  called  Jacoque.  It  had  a church,  school,  and 
some  ninety  or  one  hundred  houses,  built  in  the  ordi- 
nary style  of  mud  and  thatch.  At  nine  o’clock  we 
arrived  at  Terra  Cavacla,  the  name  of  a sitio,  to  the 
owner  of  which  I carried  a letter.  The  senhor  was 
not  at  home,  but  as  it  was  raining,  I did  not  scruple  to 
accept  the  kindness  of  his  good  lady,  who  ordered  a 

r 2 


198 


ENTERTAINMENT  BY  THE  WAY. 


hammock  to  be  suspended  for  my  use  while  the  horses 
could  eat  and  rest.  The  situation  was  beautiful,  and 
the  whole  vicinity  seemed  to  be  a plantation  of  bana- 
neiras.  The  house  was  among  the  most  indifferent 
objects  in  sight.  The  mud  floor  of  the  sula  could 
scarcely  have  been  more  uneven ; the  walls  were  not 
whitewashed,  and  it  was  at  the  same  time  small,  and 
in  great  confusion  from  the  manner  in  which  persons 
and  things  were  crowded  together  in  it. 

Senhora  was  at  the  time  negotiating  with  a pedler; 
not  a Yankee  pedler,  but  a Brazilian,  whose  “fit  out” 
might  perhaps  give  even  a Yankee  some  new  ideas. 
He  carried  his  stock  of  goods  on  horseback.  They 
were  stowed  away  in  two  large  trunks  made  of  raw- 
hide,  but  so  adjusted  in  weight  as  to  balance  each  other 
on  opposite  sides  of  the  horse,  where  they  kept  com- 
pany with  the  legs  of  the  owner.  I did  not  stop  long 
to  theorize  upon  this  or  any  other  subject,  when  once 
my  rede  was  swinging,  but  having  put  my  feet  into  a 
pair  of  dry  stockings,  I sought  the  balance  of  my  night’s 
rest.  At  eleven  o’clock  I was  ready  to  resume  my 
journey;  but  just  at  that  moment  I received  an  inti- 
mation from  Pacifico  that  breakfast  was  preparing, 
and  that  we  must  consequently  wait.  The  repast  was 
straightway  served  and  well  relished. 

On  taking  leave  I made  presents  of  tracts  to  the 
Senhora,  who  declared  herself  to  be  highly  delighted 
with  them.  At  twelve  o’clock  we  were  again  on  our 
way.  The  rain  had  ceased,  the  bushes  had  become 
dry,  and  all  nature  had  put  on  a more  cheering  as- 
pect. The  face  of  the  country  was  undulating,  some- 
times presenting  a hill-side  covered  with  denden 
palms,  or  an  opening  sprinkled  with  mangabeira  trees; 


JOURNEY  RESUMED. 


199 


and  anon,  a dense  impenetrable  forest  of  varied  fo- 
liage. It  was  on  this  part  of  the  rout  that  Pacifico, 
whose  feelings  seemed  to  enliven  with  the  scene,  re- 
lated to  me  his  history  and  pretensions.  He  said  he 
had  married  when  very  young,  and  now  had  five 
children ; that  he  owned  considerable  property,  not 
only  in  horses,  but  in  a rented  house  in  the  city;  and 
that  his  present  style  of  living  was  a mere  matter 
of  policy  to  avoid  the  suspicion  of  wealth,  and  conse- 
quent robbery.  He  asserted,  moreover,  that  he  was 
a guide  of  especial  confidence  and  enterprise,  always 
starting  promptly,  and  getting  through  before  the  time 
appointed.  I was  prepared  to  appreciate  a part  of 
these  representations  from  what  his  friends  had  told  me 
of  him,  viz : that  he  never  appeared  in  town  except  in 
the  night,  to  avoid  being  apprehended  for  debt,  or 
pressed  for  a soldier.  Of  the  rest,  I was  enabled  to 
judge  in  the  sequel. 

I frequently  saw  large  ant-houses,  both  upon  the 
sides  and  in  the  tops  of  trees.  In  form  they  resembled 
wasps’  nests,  although  they  were  much  larger,  and 
made  of  earth.  I took  occasion  to  examine  one  which 
appeared  to  be  several  years  old.  It  was  now  tenant- 
less, but  full  of  winding  cavities,  with  thin  partitions 
between  them.  It  had  once  been  inhabited  by  the 
copim  or  white  ant.  I saw  in  none  of  these  regions  the 
tall  and  tent-like  ant-hills  that  abound  in  the  serra 
acima  of  San  Paulo.  In  the  course  of  the  afternoon  I 
observed  a flock  of  large  parrots,  and  some  other  birds 
of  gay  plumage;  also,  a monkey  passing  over  the  road 
just  before  me,  upon  the  connected  branches  of  trees. 
The  latter  was  of  the  small  black  species,  called  here 
sduy , and  at  a little  distance  resembled  a black  or  gray 


200 


GO  Y ANN  A. 


squirrel.  This  last  mentioned  animal,  so  common  in 
North  America,  I have  never  seen  or  heard  of  in  the 
woods  of  Brazil. 

About  two  o’clock  we  passed  another  Indian  village, 
called  Alhandra.  It  might  have  had  a thousand  inha- 
bitants, but  they  were  by  no  means  exclusively  Indians. 
The  place  appeared,  in  all  respects,  like  the  common 
povoa^oes  and  villas  of  the  country.  A little  beyond 
this  was  Curupusuru,  an  engenho,  to  the  owner  of 
which  I bore  a letter.  I saw  his  son,  drank  a cup  of 
cold  water  at  the  door,  presented  a few  tracts,  and 
pushed  on,  instead  of  stopping  all  night,  as  it  had  been 
partially  planned  that  I should.  About  five  o’clock  p.  M. 
I arrived  in  sight  of  Goyanna,  a town  ancient  and 
celebrated  in  history.  It  presents  a lovely  aspect  when 
seen  from  a distance,  but  of  that  kind  which  gives  a 
very  false  idea  of  the  reality.  All  the  Brazilian  towns 
have  two  peculiarities  which  add  to  their  external  ap- 
pearance— first,  the  buildings  have  a uniform  color, 
white;  second,  every  eminence  or  prominent  point 
within  them  is  adorned  with  a temple  of  antique 
structure. 

Goyanna  is  a Cabega  dc  Comarca,  or  shire  town.  It 
is  four  leagues  from  the  sea-coast,  fourteen  from  Para- 
hiba,  and  fifteen  from  Recife,  situated  between  two 
small  rivers.  In  it  resides  a judge  of  civil,  and  an- 
other of  criminal  law,  who  preside  at  the  sessions; 
also,  a prefect  of  the  police.  It  has  a Latin  school, 
two  primary  schools,  a recolhimento,  hospital  da  mise- 
ricordia,  convent  of  Reformed  Carmelites,  and  five 
churches. 

Near  the  river  the  mud  was  very  deep,  and  in  pass- 
ing the  stream  I was  fortunate  not  to  fill  my  boots 


SITUATION  AT  A PUBLIC  HOUSE. 


201 


with  water.  On  entering  the  town  it  proved  to  be 
miserable  and  dirty.  Almost  the  only  building  which 
did  not  appear  to  have  a downward  tendency,  was  a 
new  prison  going  up.  Pacifico  conducted  me  to  the 
best,  and  perhaps  the  only  establishment  in  the  place 
in  which  we  could  be  accommodated  for  the  night, 
(arranchado.)  I think  that  in  respect  to  filth  and  dis- 
order, it  exceeded  all  the  places  in  which  I had  hither- 
to put  up. 

My  first  movement  on  alighting  was  to  walk  through 
the  length  and  breadth  of  the  town,  to  satisfy  the  eye 
as  much  as  possible  with  seeing,  and  hoping  that 
upon  my  return  the  public  house  would  be  in  better 
order.  All  changes,  however,  seemed  to  be  for  the 
worse.  My  quarto,  which  appeared  to  be  the  best 
room  the  house  afforded,  had  become  the  receptacle 
for  four  or  five  saddles  and  cangaias — an  old  hen 
was  gathering  a brood  of  chickens  under  her  wings  in 
one  corner;  the  solitary  and  glassless  window  opposite 
was  set  with  heads  and  shoulders  peering  out  into  the 
street;  while  such  a troop  of  urchins,  ragged  and  naked, 
black  and  white,  as  were  careering  through  the  apart- 
ment, small  enough  at  best,  I will  not  attempt  to 
describe.  I took  a chair  and  seated  myself  in  the 
street,  for  good  and  obvious  reasons,  until  Pacifico 
was  ready  to  cater  for  my  supper.  I then  returned  to 
assert  my  rights.  Suffice  it  to  say,  that  I got  the  room 
tolerably  free  from  intruders,  and  was  spreading  out 
my  eatables  upon  the  window-sill  as  a substitute  for  a 
table,  when,  behold,  the  master  of  the  house  came  in, 
whom  I had  not  before  seen  or  heard  of.  I cannot  sav 
whether  motives  of  interest  or  self-consequence  predo- 
minated, but  certain  it  was  that  he  produced  a revolu- 

Vol.  II.— 26 


202 


THE  LANDLORD’S  POLITENESS. 


tion  in  the  order  of  things  very  speedily,  scolding  every 
moment  at  the  top  of  his  voice,  that  a gentleman  should 
be  treated  in  so  neglectful  and  barbarous  a manner. 
My  supper  was  at  once  transferred  to  another  room, 
where  there  was  a table  permanently  fastened,  its  legs 
being  driven  into  the  ground.  Water  was  brought  for 
washing,  with  a towel,  having  an  immense  ornamental 
border.  Presently  I found  myself  seated  to  my  soli- 
tary meal,  with  no  fewer  persons  than  the  Senhor, 
Senhora,  three  children,  and  an  occasional  straggler 
gathered  around  to  witness  my  operations.  The 
Senhor  even  assisted  to  skin  my  roasted  catneroens, 
(shrimps,)  protesting  at  the  same  time  that  they  were 
miserable,  and  that  I might  have  much  better  if  I 
would  only  wait  to  have  them  caught  and  cooked.  I 
could  but  smile  at  the  good  grace  with  which  all  this 
officiousness  was  enacted,  and  on  the  whole  thought  it 
preferable  to  the  sullen,  freezing  indifference,  some- 
times met  with.  It  gave  me,  moreover,  an  opportu- 
nity to  speak  in  turn,  and  to  introduce  such  conversa- 
tion as  I chose.  I found  that  the  oldest  child  went  to 
school,  and  that  the  others  would  soon  go.  They 
accordingly  became  the  nominal  recipients  of  some 
folhelos,  which  I heard  their  father  reading  aloud  till 
late  at  night — having  become,  as  he  informed  me  in 
the  morning,  very  much  interested  in  them. 

Before  proceeding  farther  with  the  events  of  the 
evening,  I must  mention  that  in  the  course  of  the 
day  we  had  come  up  with  three  horses  belonging  to 
Pacffico,  which  he  said  he  had  sent  forward  the  day 
before,  on  their  way  to  the  Recife  for  cargo.  They 
were  accompanied  by  a matuto,*  called  Joaozinho, 


* A term  derived  from  homem  do  motto , signifying  a backwoodsman. 


guide’s  feint  of  illness. 


203 


and  Pacifico’s  oldest  son,  whom  the  father  had  described 
to  me  as  well  instructed  in  reading  and  writing,  but 
who  declared  to  me  himself  that  he  knew  nothing 
about  one  or  the  other,  having  never  been  to  school 
in  his  life.  I looked  in  vain  among  the  animals  thus 
overtaken  to  find  a better  than  that  I rode ; however, 
the  parties  became  united,  and  when  I came  to  “ turn 
in”  to  my  hammock,  I found  that  all  three  were  to  be 
companions  of  my  bed-chamber,  stretched  out  upon 
benches  within  reach  of  me.  My  first  impression  was 
to  remonstrate,  but  a kinder  and  probably  wiser  sen- 
timent prevailed,  in  compliance  with  which  I did  not 
so  much  as  question  their  right  to  any  privileges  they 
might  get  in  connection  with  mine. 

I had  been  led  to  anticipate  much  annoyance  on  the 
way  from  carapatos,  small  insects,  which,  once  coming  in 
contact  with  the  skin,  adhere  to  it,  and  bury  themselves 
in  it,  causing  a most  excruciating  pain.  They  are  much 
more  abundant  in  the  hot  than  in  the  rainy  season,  and 
as  yet  had  hardly  become  common.  I met  with  none  of 
them,  although  Joaozinho  declared  they  had  diverted 
themselves  upon  his  yellow  skin  at  a great  rate.  In 
the  morning  I was  anxious  to  start  as  early  as  the  light 
would  permit  us  to  cross  the  river.  We  reached  the 
stream  about  six  o’clock.  Here  Pacifico  suddenly 
informed  me  that  he  was  sick,  and  could  go  no  further, 
but  that  he  would  send  the  matuto  in  his  place,  who 
was  a person  of  nearly  equal  ability  and  confidence 
with  himself.  I did  not  readily  consent  to  this  arrange- 
ment, but  told  him  we  would  talk  about  it  on  the  other 
side  of  the  river.  We  crossed  in  a canoe,  swimming 
the  horses.  Finding  that  he  persisted  in  stopping,  I 
determined  to  waste  no  time  in  parleying,  and  pushed 


204 


SERTANEJOS  CARRYING  COTTON. 


on,  accompanied  by  the  matuto.  The  road  lay  through 
a forest  for  several  leagues,  being  wider  than  before. 
The  air  was  fresh  and  balmy,  and  numberless  birds 
of  plumage  and  of  song  enlivened  the  scene.  The  soil 
was  sandy,  the  surface  level,  and  considerable  hewn 
timber  was  scattered  along  the  road.  After  proceed- 
ing two  or  three  leagues,  houses  became  more  fre- 
quent, almost  all  of  them  exhibiting  a bottle  or  jug  at 
the  window,  as  a sign  that  ardent  spirits  could  be 
bought  within.  I saw  frequent  flocks  of  parrots  and 
paroquets.  The  natural  cry  of  the  former  resembles 
that  of  the  common  hawk.  The  day  was  beautiful.  I 
overtook,  and  for  some  time  accompanied,  a troop  of 


SERTANEJOS  CARRYING  COTTON. 


BRAZILIAN  PLANTATION. 


205 


sertanejos ,*  whose  horses  were  loaded  with  bags  of 
farinha  de  mandioca  and  bales  of  cotton.  I was  not  a 
little  amused  with  their  manner  of  mounting.  When, 
on  account  of  a high  load,  they  are  unable  to  spring 
on  at  one  leap,  they  take  hold  of  the  horse’s  tail,  place 
their  foot  upon  the  gambrel  joint,  and  walk  up  over  the 
hips  of  the  animal.  Their  horses  are  trained  to  stand 
perfectly  still  during  the  process.  The  cut  represents 
the  style  in  which  nearly  all  the  produce  from  the  inte- 
rior of  the  provinces  of  Parahiba  and  Pernambuco  is 
carried  to  market.  About  noon  we  came  to  an  en- 
genho  denominated  Caga  Fogo,  which  appeared  more 
as  every  Brazilian  plantation  might  and  ought  to  ap- 
pear, than  any  other  I saw  in  the  country.  The  house 
was  low  but  large,  and  neatly  whitewashed,  with  green 
doors  and  window-blinds.  It  was  located  in  the  midst 
of  an  extended  and  fertile  valley,  surrounded  with  the 
proper  out-houses,  flanked  on  the  one  side  by  a splen- 
did field  of  sugar-cane,  and  on  the  other  by  green  pas- 
tures, extending  to  the  brow  of  the  neighboring  hills, 
and  sprinkled  with  grazing  herds.  Near  by  was  a fine 
pond,  furnishing  water  power  for  the  sugar-mill  and 
similar  purposes,  while  its  dam  answered  as  a bridge 
to  the  stream,  having  a waste-weir  for  the  surplus 
water. 

The  village  of  Pasmodo,  formerly  a freguezia,  but 
now  only  a provo^ao,  was  next  in  order.  It  seemed 
to  be  the  time  of  a festa.  The  church,  and  the  square 
in  front,  were  dressed  out  with  flags  and  such  like 
ornaments,  several  of  which  I observed  to  be  ladies’ 

* The  term  Sevtanejo  signifies  an  inhabitant  of  the  Sertao.  It  is 
considered  more  dignified  than  matuto,  and  is  applied  to  proprietors 
in  the  interior. 


S 


206 


WEEKLY  FAIRS. 


shawls  or  large  handkerchiefs,  tied  to  poles  set  in  the 
ground.  This  place  is  remarkable  for  the  manufac- 
ture and  sale  of  great  numbers  of  the  knives  (facas 
de  ponta)  which  it  is  the  passion  of  this  people  to 
carry,  in  a silver-mounted. sheath,  by  their  side,  and 
their  vice  to  use  too  often  for  desperate  purposes.  I 
saw  great  numbers  of  them  exposed  in  the  windows 
for  sale,  and  very  often  in  ominous  conjunction  with 
the  rum  bottle. 

We  at  length  paused  at  Itabatinga,  near  to  Igua- 
rassu,  where  my  guide  left  his  horse,  preferring  to  carry 
the  cloak  and  portmanteau  himself  rather  than  to 
attempt  getting  the  jaded  animal  any  farther.  I tried 
in  vain  to  procure  an  exchange  for  mine.  In  front  of 
the  house  where  we  stopped  was  a cattle  fair,  which 
had  collected  a number  of  spectators.  It  seemed  to 
be  a branch  of  the  weekly  fair  that  is  held  at  Pedras 
de  Fogo,  a place  seven  leagues  beyond  Goyanna.  At 
that  place  vast  numbers  of  people  collect  every  Wed- 
nesday and  Thursday  for  the  general  sale,  purchase, 
and  interchange  of  commodities  furnished  and  needed 
by  the  sertoens.  As  a means  of  judging  of  the  con- 
course of  people  who  assembled  there,  I was  told  that 
sixty  or  seventy  oxen  are  frequently  slaughtered  on 
the  spot  for  their  sustenance.  I was  about  leaving 
Itabatinga  without  perceiving  any  opening  for  doing 
good,  when  I observed  a rudely-constructed  sun-dial 
placed  before  the  door  of  a house,  and  an  old  gentle- 
man with  silver  locks  watching  the  progress  of  the 
shadow.  On  approaching,  to  compare  the  rate  of  my 
watch  with  that  of  the  sun,  which  of  course  must  be 
correct,  I found  the  former  to  be  considerably  too  fast. 
However,  the  old  gentleman  and  myself  became  imme- 


CHURLISH  RECEPTION. 


20T 


diate  friends.  He  had  recently  retired  from  the  Recife 
to  spend  the  remainder  of  his  days  in  quiet.  Being 
fond  of  reading,  he  was  very  happy  to  receive  the 
tokens  of  esteem  which  I presented  him.  Some 
other  persons,  who  had  gathered  round  during  our 
conversation,  seemed  also  glad  to  have  a supply  of 
tracts. 

Iguarassu  is  located  upon  an  elevation,  at  the  foot 
of  which  flows  a small  river  of  the  same  name,  crossed 
by  an  ancient  but  very  good  stone  bridge.  It  is  a 
league  and  a half  from  the  sea  coast,  and  six  leagues 
from  Pernambuco.  It  is  at  present  a villa,  has  a pri- 
mary school,  a convent  of  Antoninos,  recolhimento, 
misericordia,  prison,  town-house,  mother  church,  and 
four  hermidas,  or  filial  churches.  It  has  the  air  of 
antiquity,  and  is  on  the  decline,  having  but  little  busi- 
ness. I observed  one  temple  with  its  roof  fallen  in. 
The  only  communication  1 had  with  any  one  in  the 
place,  occurred  as  I ascended  the  hill  and  entered 
the  principal  square  of  the  town.  In  front  of  one  of 
the  churches  there  was  a man  with  a red  capa  over 
his  shoulders,  seated  beside  two  images,  and  sur- 
rounded by  more  or  less  persons  gazing  at  them.  He 
saluted  me,  as  I passed  by,  in  a gruff,  uncouth  tone, 
“ Ho!  patricio  da  ca  esmolas  para  os  santos /” — “ Hallo, 
countryman,  hand  over  your  alms  for  the  saints  !”  I 
thanked  the  lazy  fellow  for  his  politeness,  and  pursued 
my  way. 

Soon  after  passing  Iguarassu,  I overtook  a troop  of 
a dozen  horsemen ; several  blacks  were  riding  forward, 
and  their  masters  in  the  rear.  In  front  of  all  was  a 
drove  of  cattle,  which  I supposed  to  belong  to  the  party, 
but  which  it  appeared  did  not,  being  soon  left  behind. 


208 


CONVERSATION  ON  THE  ROAD. 


At  first  none  seemed  sociable,  and  I spurred  on  my 
charger,  aware  that  I had  a long  road  before  me,  as  I 
intended  to  go  to  the  Recife  before  sleeping.  I ascer- 
tained, in  passing  by,  that  the  cavalcade  was  from 
Assu,  in  the  province  of  Rio  Grande  do  Norte,  eighty 
leagues  distant,  and  on  its  way  to  Pernambuco  to  pur- 
chase goods.  Presently  I was  overtaken  in  turn,  and 
conversation  commenced  in  earnest.  The  man  to 
whom  I had  spoken,  in  passing  them  had  communi- 
cated to  the  rest  the  fact  of  my  being  a North  Ameri- 
can, which  I had  given  him  in  exchange  for  some 
information  respecting  the  troop.  The  greatest  curi- 
osity was  at  once  aroused,  and  now  manifested  on  every 
point,  respecting  me  and  my  country.  I found  Senhor 
Joao  Gomez,  the  captain,  to  be  a very  intelligent  and 
apparently  worthy  man,  accompanied  by  his  son  and 
two  compadres,  which  latter  persons,  if  not  equally  well 
informed,  were  certainly  not  less  desirous  to  become 
so.  Their  questions  were  diversified  and  often  very 
amusing,  upon  every  topic  relating  to  the  arts,  customs, 
politics,  and  religion  of  the  country  from  which  I came, 
and  I doubt  not  that  the  information  I communicated 
sounded  very  strange  to  them.  When  conversing  upon 
religious  subjects,  although  an  occasional  assent  would 
be  given  to  what  I said  as  just  or  important,  yet, 
having  been  taught  that  all  were  Christians  who  had 
been  baptized,  they  seemed  to  think  it  a small  matter 
whether  a man  w'ere  a good  or  bad  Christian.  The 
former  character  secured  him  a place  in  heaven,  while 
the  latter  circumstance,  being  accidental,  could  only 
send  him  to  purgatory.  The  captain  said  that  Bibles 
were  occasionally  met  with  in  his  vicinity,  and  that  he 
had  one  in  his  family. 


ARRIVAL  AT  OLINDA. 


209 


During  the  several  hours  we  rode  in  company,  the 
moral  condition,  and  the  civil  relations  and  prospects, 
both  of  Brazil  and  the  United  States,  were  thoroughly 
discussed.  We  had,  in  the  meantime,  been  traveling 
over  the  table  lands,  where  engenhos  and  habitations 
of  different  kinds  were  somewhat  frequent  amid  a suc- 
cession of  clayey  hills.  At  length  the  Rio  Grandenses 
stopped  for  the  night,  and  I had  yet  three  leagues  be- 
tween me  and  the  Recife.  Notwithstanding  a ride  of 
nearly  fifty  miles  since  morning,  my  Rosinante  still 
kept  upon  his  legs.  This  was  nearly  all  I could  say 
in  the  beginning;  but  it  was  now  evident,  that  notwith- 
standing his  appearance,  his  capacities  for  a long  run 
were  second  to  those  of  but  few  horses  in  the  country. 

Just  before  dark  I passed  the  correio  de  governo,  or 
government  mail,  which  was  a species  of  leathern 
trunk,  strapped  on  the  back  of  an  Indian  on  foot.  This 
is  the  usual  method  of  conveying  the  mails  in  these 
regions  ; and  in  addition  to  that  of  the  government, 
there  is  a weekly  post  of  the  same  description  between 
Pernambuco  and  Parahiba,  supported  by  the  merchants. 
It  had  now  become  dark,  and  our  last  league  before 
reaching  Olinda,  was  over  a wretched  piece  of  road. 
At  one  point  of  it  I was  reminded  of  my  proximity  to 
my  journey’s  end,  by  catching  a delightful  glimpse  of 
the  Recife,  with  its  lamps  just  lit  up  for  the  evening. 

Many  troops  of  horses  were  met  on  the  way  heavily 
loaded  for  the  interior.  Coming  at  length  to  some 
narrow  passes  where  I could  see  nothing  that  was 
before  me,  I waited  for  my  guide  who  had  lingered 
behind.  He  at  length  came  up  in  company  with  the 
correio.  We  soon  arrived  in  Olinda,  and  proceeded 
to  an  establishment  at  which  my  man  Joaozinho  was 

Vol.  II— 27  s 2 


210  DEPARTURE  OF  THE  STEAM-PACKET. 

accustomed  to  stop,  and  where  I designed  to  leave  my 
horse  and  walk  the  remaining  distance  into  Pernam- 
buco.  My  attendant,  however,  protested  that  he  was 
too  tired  to  proceed  another  step,  and  begged  me,  p elo 
amor  de  Deos,  to  stop  for  the  night.  I yielded,  out  of 
pure  compassion  for  him,  on  his  promising  to  start  at 
half  past  four  the  next  morning.  To  my  astonishment, 
when  that  hour  came,  I found  him  disposed  to  delay 
still  longer.  It  now  appeared  that  he  had  a plan  on 
foot  for  extorting  extra  pay.  He  was  soon  disabused 
of  his  expectation  of  succeeding  in  that,  and  we  finally 
were  in  motion  by  half-past  five.  My  great  anxiety 
had  been  to  reach  Pernambuco  before  the  arrival  of 
another  steam-packet  from  the  south,  which  I had 
every  expectation  of  doing.  Judge  then  of  my  painful 
surprise  on  perceiving,  the  moment  I reached  the  high 
beach  between  the  two  cities,  a steamboat  in  the  act 
of  firing  up  to  leave  the  harbor.  I hurried  on  as  fast 
as  my  horse  could  carry  me,  but  owing  to  the  depth 
of  sand,  it  was  an  exceedingly  slow  road : before  reach- 
ing the  end  of  it,  I had  opportunity  for  all  sorts  of 
conjectures.  Probabilities  seemed  to  favor  the  idea 
of  her  being  bound  south  rather  than  north.  In  the 
former  case,  I wished  to  send  letters — in  the  latter,  to 
embark  myself.  In  either,  how  easily  I might  have 
succeeded  by  going  through  according  to  my  intention 
the  night  before ! Hut  even  now  I should  succeed  if 
the  boat  did  not  leave  before  the  usual  hour,  eight 
o’clock.  I hurried  to  the  sea-shore,  and  dismounted 
amidst  a crowd  of  eager  spectators,  just  as  the  boat 
was  passing  by  the  light-house  upon  the  reef.  By 
inquiry,  I found  that  she  was  the  Pernambucana,  bound 
to  Para.  She  had  been  sent  nearly  a week  before  her 


DISAPPOINTMENT. 


211 


time,  in  order  to  carry  government  dispatches  and  an 
armament  to  Maranhani,  to  assist  in  quelling  the  re- 
bellion. Owing  to  her  haste,  she  had  sailed  at  half 
past  six,  instead  of  waiting  till  the  usual  hour.  As  it 
was  now  impossible  for  me  to  go  on,  and  as  another 
steam-packet  could  not  be  expected  under  a month, 
the  keenness  of  my  disappointment  can  only  be  ima- 
gined. How  perplexing,  to  think  of  the  repeated  de- 
lays that  had  occurred,  notwithstanding  all  my  plans 
and  efforts.  After  all,  it  was  being  only  half  an  hour 
too  late  that  was  to  cause  thirty  days’  detention! 

A little  reflection,  however,  brought  to  my  mind  a 
variety  of  considerations,  not  only  why,  as  in  a world 
of  disappointments,  I should  rejoice  in  this  as  one  of  the 
least  that  could  have  happened,  but  also,  why  I should 
regard  my  detention  as  entirely  Providential.  This  I 
have  now  many  reasons  for  believing  it  to  have  been. 


212 


TEMPERANCE  AMONG  SEAMEN. 


CHAPTER  XII. 

Temperance  among  Seamen. — Embarkation  in  the  Maranhense. — 
Province  of  Rio  Grande  do  Norte. — Natal. — Cape  St.  Roque. — 
Island  of  Fernando  de  Noronha. — Entrance  to  CeaiA. — Landing  in 
the  Surf — Paviola. — Survey  of  the  City. — Style  of  Building. — Society. 
Ride  to  Villa  Vellia. — Sandy  Plains. — Engenho  de  Rapaddra. — The 
Campos. 

I have  recorded,  in  preceding  chapters,  the  more 
important  observations  made  during  my  farther  sojourn 
in  Pernambuco.  One  circumstance,  however,  deserves 
mention  here.  A few  days  after  my  return  from  Para- 
hiba  the  steamer  St.  Sebastian  came  into  port,  on  her 
return  voyage  from  the  north.  Just  before  I took 
leave  of  this  vessel,  on  my  arrival  in  that  port,  a depu- 
tation from  the  forecastle,  upon  the  inmates  of  which 
1 had  bestowed  frequent  attentions,  had  waited  on  me, 
requesting  that  I would  draw  up  for  them  a temperance 
pledge  adapted  to  their  circumstances.  These  circum- 
stances I knew  to  be  very  unfavorable,  as  rations  of 
spirit  were  daily  served  out  to  the  crew,  and  many  of 
them  were  already  confirmed  in  their  attachment  to 
the  ruinous  fluid.  I,  nevertheless,  prepared  the  requi- 
site paper,  and  put  it  in  the  hands  of  those  who  de- 
sired it,  adding  such  cautions  and  encouragements  as 
seemed  proper.  I had  been  troubled  with  some  mis- 
givings respecting  the  result;  hut  now,  that  occasion 
offered,  I hastened  on  hoard  to  ascertain  what  it  might 
he.  To  my  agreeable  surprise,  I learned  that  thirteen 
seamen  and  firemen  had  signed  the  pledge,  and  strictly 
observed  it,  notwithstanding  all  their  temptations. 


STEAMER  MARANHENSE.  213 

The  first  officer  of  the  vessel,  who  professed  to  be  a 
temperate  man,  and  who  had  refused  to  sign  the 
pledge  as  unnecessary,  had  alone  been  discharged,  and 
left  behind  on  account  of  drunkenness.  The  captain’s 
wine  bottles  had  proved  too  great  a temptation  for 
him,  and  his  consequent  disgrace  demonstrated  the  in- 
efficiency of  any  protection  against  strong  drink,  except 
total  abstinence. 

In  due  time  the  Maranhense  steamer  arrived  from 
Rio,  and  I embarked  in  her  for  the  northern  ports. 
Five  o’clock  P.  M.  was  the  hour  of  sailing.  It  was 
punctually  observed,  notwithstanding  a squall  of  wind 
and  rain  made  it  somewhat  hazardous  crossing  the 
bar.  Again  at  sea,  I spent  a comfortable  night  on  my 
camarota,  passing  over  the  same  course  which  I had 
previously  navigated  on  board  the  canoe  and  jangada. 
In  the  morning  we  wrere  opposite  Cape  Blanco,  in  sight 
of  land,  and  soon  passed  the  mouth  of  the  Parahiba 
river. 

During  the  course  of  the  day,  leaving  the  province 
of  Parahiba  behind,  wre  passed  along  the  coast  of  Rio 
Grande  do  Norte.  This  province  derives  its  appellation 
from  a stream,  on  which  its  capital  is  built,  and  which 
was  called  by  the  natives  Potengi.  It  lies  between 
Parahiba  and  Ceara.  Its  coast  exhibits  no  highlands. 
It  appears  uniformly  sandy  on  the  beach,  but  is  covered 
with  low  matto  towards  the  interior.  The  face  of  the 
country,  back  from  the  ocean,  is  uneven.  Its  forests 
are  said  to  produce  better  Brazil-wood  than  any  other 
part  of  the  empire,  and  also  many  precious  drugs.  Its 
climate  is  generally  healthful.  The  soil,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  a few  places,  is  by  no  means  fertile,  on  ac- 
count of  the  superabundance  of  sand.  Nevertheless, 


214 


NATAL. 


it  produces  cotton,  sugar-cane,  rice,  and  some  other 
valuable  commodities;  and  is,  in  some  sections,  de- 
voted successfully  to  the  rearing  of  cattle. 

Natal,  the  capital,  is  located  on  the  right  bank  of  the 
river,  near  its  mouth.  It  is  an  ancient  city,  although 
still  small.  It  was  a position  of  great  importance 
during  the  Dutch  wars,  and  its  fortress,  by  which  the 
city  is  still  defended,  was  then  pronounced  the  strongest 
in  all  the  country.  The  port  cannot  be  considered  a 
good  one,  although  it  admits  vessels  of  one  hundred 
and  fifty  tons  burden.  The  foreign  commerce  of  the 
province  is  very  inconsiderable,  and  there  is  at  present 
no  prospect  of  its  speedy  improvement.  The  state  of 
society  does  not  differ  materially  from  that  in  the 
neighboring  provinces.  Within  the  boundaries  of  this 
province  is  cape  St.  Roque,  distinguished  as  forming 
the  angle  of  the  north-eastern  coast  of  South  America, 
and  known  to  every  navigator  who  lias  crossed  “the 
line;”  at  least,  in  calculating  his  chances  of  falling  to 
leeward.  A large  rock,  resembling  a hogshead  in 
form,  marks  the  extremity  of  this  cape,  and  withstands 
the  continual  dashing  of  the  waves.  W hen  we  had 
passed  this  point,  our  course  became  W.  N.  W.,  and 
continued  thus  through  the  night. 

In  this  connection,  it  will  be  proper  to  notice  the 
island  of  Fernando  de  Noronha,  which  lies  about 
seventy  leagues  N.  E.  from  cape  St.  Roque,  in  south 
latitude  3°  56'.  This  island  has  been  successively 
under  the  dominion  of  Portugal,  Holland,  France,  and 
Brazil.  It  is  about  twenty  miles  in  circumference. 
Many  little  islets  are  divided  from  the  principal  island, 
and  from  each  other  by  narrow  channels.  They  are 
all  rocky  and  barren,  although  frequented  by  vast 


CAPE  ST.  ROQUE. 


215 


numbers  of  sea-fowl,  and  affording  a favorable  locality 
for  fishing.  The  island  has  two  harbors,  but  neither 
of  them  is  safe  during  a storm.  Its  appearance  from 
a distance  at  sea,  which  I had  an  opportunity  of  ob- 
serving during  my  outward  voyage  to  Brazil,  has  been, 
with  some  propriety,  likened  to  an  immense  church. 
The  principal  mountain-peak  serves  as  a steeple,  and, 
as  such,  is  sometimes  called  Campanario.  Nothing, 
however,  is  more  dissimilar  to  the  moral  condition  of 
this  island,  than  the  idea  of  a church.  It  has  for  ages 
been  occupied  solely  as  a place  of  exile  and  imprison- 
ment. Seven  forts  were  erected  upon  it  by  the  Portu- 
guese, in  the  days  of  their  wealth  and  power.  A small 
garrison  is  always  stationed  at  Fernando,  for  the  pur- 
pose of  keeping  in  subjection  the  malefactors  confined 
upon  that  rocky  and  sea-girt  prison.  No  woman  is 
allowed  to  visit  the  island,  and  most  of  the  provisions 
used  upon  it  are  carried  from  Pernambuco. 

On  the  second  morning,  after  doubling  cape  St. 
Roque,  we  began  to  look  out  for  the  port  of  Ceara,  to 
which  we  were  next  bound.  The  weather  was  thick 
and  squally,  and  at  the  same  time  the  land  was  very 
low,  so  that  we  had  some  difficulty  in  finding  our  har- 
bor. We  did  not  enter  it  until  noon.  Even  in  fine 
weather  this  port  is  somewhat  difficult  to  make,  not  so 
much  from  its  wanting  landmarks,  as  from  the  diffi- 
culty of  seeing  them.  There  is  generally  a thick  haze 
hanging  over  the  land,  and  more  especially  during  the 
period  of  the  strong  winds,  which,  as  the  coast  is  low, 
prevents  its  being  seen  at  any  considerable  distance; 
while  long,  low  banks  of  cloud,  are  continually  present- 
ing the  appearance  of  a shore.  This  occurs  when  the 
weather  is  perfectly  clear  overhead. 


216 


ENTRANCE  TO  CEARA. 


The  position  of  Ceara  is  in  3^  42'  58"  S.  latitude,  and 
38°  34'  W.  longitude.  Its  landmarks  are  the  slight 
promontory  of  Micoripe  on  the  south,  and  the  moun- 
tain-peaks of  Mararanguape,  which  lie  to  the  north, 
some  distance  inland  from  the  city.  These  were  the 
first  and  only  high  mountains  I saw  on  the  coast  north 
of  Bahia.  They  mark  the  termination  of  the  great 
serra  do  Mar,  which  I described  in  connection  with  my 
visit  to  S.  Paulo,  and  which  stretches  through  at  least 
twenty  degrees  of  latitude,  sometimes  bordering  di- 
rectly upon  the  ocean,  at  others  standing  far  inland. 

Ceara  is  frequently  denominated  Fortaleza,  after  an 
ancient  fortress  built  upon  the  shore  to  defend  the  har- 
bor. Scarcely  any  thing  of  the  city  can  be  seen  from 
the  sea,  besides  this  fort  and  a few  huts  by  which  it  is 
flanked  on  either  side.  At  the  left  of  the  town  is  the 
mouth  of  a small  stream,  whose  banks  are  adorned 
with  coqueiros,  the  greatest  ornament  in  the  scenery 
of  these  regions. 

The  bay  of  Ceara  opens  to  the  north,  and  presents 
to  the  eye  a regular  and  beautiful  curve,  sweeping  in- 
ward like  a semicircle.  The  harbor  is  formed  by  an 
invisible  reef  of  rocks,  analogous  to  that  of  Pernam- 
buco. It  was  never  very  good,  and  is  now  deteriora- 
ting through  the  constant  influx  of  sand.  At  the  time 
of  our  arrival,  a few  coasting-smacks  and  an  English 
brig  were  all  the  vessels  in  port.  The  landing  is  no- 
where good,  on  account  of  the  heavy  surf  that  continu- 
ally breaks  upon  the  strand.  Adapted  to  this,  the 
pilot-boat  in  which  I went  on  shore  was  guarded  by 
strong  outriggers  to  prevent  capsizing,  but  even  then 
did  not  willingly  come  in  contact  with  the  shore.  After 
conveying  passengers  from  the  ship  to  a fordable  depth 


PAVIOLA. 


217 


near  the  water’s  edge,  it  waited  for  them  to  be  taken 
on  shore  in  a paviola.  This  is  a species  of  chair,  fast- 
ened upon  cross-bars,  to  be  conveyed  on  the  shoulders 
of  four  men. 


PAVIOLA. 

The  bearers  of  this  singular  vehicle,  need  to  be  of 
equal  height,  and  they  are  generally  very  tall  and  ath- 
letic. As  I saw  a party  of  them  marching  steadily 
into  the  surf  to  bear  me  off,  in  the  instance  of  my  first 
going  ashore,  it  appeared  very  evident  that  they  were 
not  afraid  of  the  water.  Occasionally  a surge  dashed 
over  their  heads,  and  hid  them  a moment  from  sight. 
During  this  assault  they  paused,  and  as  the  wave 
passed  beyond  or  receded  from  them  they  again  moved 
along.  At  length  two  of  them  laid  hands  upon  the 
boat  to  steady  it,  and  I stepped  into  the  paviola,  and 
Vol.  II.— 28  T 


218 


SURVEY  OF  THE  CITY. 


seated  myself  high  above  their  heads.  Notwithstanding 
all  this  elevation,  I did  not  escape  without  a sprinkling 
of  the  “salt  sea-foam.”  But,  on  the  whole,  I thought 
myself  fortunate  not  to  be  washed  off’  into  the  surf. 
Once  set  down  on  the  beach,  I pursued  my  way  lei- 
surely towards  the  town,  and  the  wind  and  sun  dried 
my  garments. 

One  of  my  first  duties  was  to  call  upon  a prominent 
merchant  of  the  place,  to  whom  I presented  letters. 
This  gentleman  welcomed  me  with  great  hospitality  to 
his  house,  and  entertained  me  with  a detail  of  many 
particulars,  respecting  the  city  and  province  of  Ceara. 
Towards  evening  he  furnished  me  with  a horse,  through 
whose  good  service  I had  before  night  explored  the 
greater  portion  of  the  city  and  its  precincts.  The  first 
thing  to  be  said  of  Ceara  is,  that  it  is  literally  a city  built 
upon  the  sand.  From  the  beach  to  the  remotest  suburb 
all  is  sand,  sand.  If  a person  walks,  the  deep  sand 
wearies  his  limbs;  if  the  sun  shines,  the  heated  sand 
parches  his  feet ; and,  if  the  wind  blows,  the  flying  sand 
fills  his  eyes.  Sand  fills  the  streets  and  composes  the 
side-walks,  except  that,  here  and  there,  it  may  be 
covered  with  a broken  flagging  of  stone  or  brick. 
Walking,  riding,  and  driving,  seem  to  be  equally  im- 
peded by  the  sand ; and,  for  the  locomotion  of  a single 
cart,  it  is  not  rare  that  ten  oxen  are  employed.  Never- 
theless, the  plan  of  the  city  is  good;  the  streets  are 
wide,  and  its  squares  ample. 

When  Lord  Cochrane  took  possession  of  the  place 
in  1824,  he  attempted  to  beautify  it  by  planting  rows 
of  trees  at  the  sides  of  the  streets.  The  people,  moved 
by  their  dislike  to  the  man,  or  by  some  other  infatua- 
tion, afterward  destroyed  the  trees,  tearing  them  up 


NO  MONASTIC  EDIFICES. 


219 


by  the  roots,  thus  ruining  an  improvement  which  would, 
in  its  maturity,  have  proved  a signal  benefit  to  them 
and  their  posterity.  For  the  last  few  years  the  town 
has  been  improving.  Several  buildings  were  going  up 
at  the  time  of  my  visit.  The  most  permanent  build- 
ing material  in  use  is  a large  coarse  species  of  brick, 
but  a majority  of  the  dwellings  are  casas  terreas,  built 
of  mud  and  sticks,  in  a style  that  allows  of  their  being 
put  up  and  furnished  in  the  course  of  a day  or  two. 
This  style  seems  to  suit  the  genius  and  habits  of  the 
people  better  than  that  which  costs  more  labor,  al- 
though it  be  more  permanent. 

The  public  buildings  are  neither  large  nor  distin- 
guished by  any  peculiarity  from  those  already  describ- 
ed in  connection  with  other  places.  The  city,  how- 
ever, does  not  contain  a convent,  nor  any  edifice 
devoted  to  monastic  purposes.  This  remark  may  also 
be  made  of  the  entire  province,  a circumstance  that  is 
believed  to  be  unparalleled  in  Brazil.  The  only  com- 
plete church  in  Ceara  belongs  to  Nossa  Senhora  do 
Rozario,  the  especial  protectress  of  the  negroes.  That 
of  the  Conception,  frequented  by  whites,  was  a few 
years  since  torn  down,  in  order  to  be  rebuilt  on  a 
grander  scale;  but  the  work  stopped  when  the  walls 
were  about  half  erected,  and  still  appeared  likely  to 
remain  in  that  position  for  some  time  to  come. 

On  returning  from  my  ride  to  spend  the  night  with 
my  newly  acquired  friend,  I found  myself  most  agree- 
ably situated  in  his  interesting  family.  The  two 
eldest  children  were  absent,  receiving  their  education 
in  Portugal.  For  the  younger,  an  English  governess 
was  employed  in  the  house.  The  supper  table  was 
furnished  with  wine.  On  my  asking  leave  to  decline 


220 


VILLA  VELHA. 


its  use,  I had  the  pleasure  of  learning  that  I was  asso- 
ciated with  Scnhora  G.,  the  lady  of  the  house,  who 
was  also  member  of  a temperance  society.  This  cir- 
cumstance was  a cause  of  mutual  congratulation,  since 
it  was  a rare  thing  for  a guest  to  refuse  wine,  and 
equally  so  to  meet  a Brazilian  lady  who  gloried  in  a 
pledge  of  total  abstinence.  As  guests  in  this  family, 
were  also  an  elderly  Portuguese  gentleman  and  his 
wife,  a young  English  woman.  The  former  had  once 
been  wealthy,  but  had  thrown  away  his  property  in 
scheming — a branch  of  business  upon  which  he  was 
still  profoundly  intent,  projecting  various  improve- 
ments for  the  country,  and  writing  pamphlets  to  demon- 
strate their  utility.  Either  through  his  own  misfortune, 
or  through  some  special  obliquity  in  the  understand- 
ing of  every  body  else,  scarcely  any  of  his  plans 
hitherto  had  even  been  the  subject  of  experiment,  so 
visionary  and  groundless  did  they  seem  to  the  public. 

On  my  return  from  the  north,  I found  that  this  ex- 
cellent family  was  absent  from  the  city,  having  retired 
a few  weeks  previously,  to  spend  the  season  of  the 
sugar  harvest  (assafra)  upon  a plantation  two  and  a 
half  leagues  distant.  Scnhor  G.  was  at  his  counting- 
room,  and  as  profuse  in  his  kind  attentions  as  when  I 
visited  him  before.  He  invited  me  to  ride  out  in  his 
company,  and  spend  the  night  with  his  family  at  the 
fazenda  of  Villa  Vellia.  A proposition  so  agreeable 
in  itself  was  not  likely  to  be  declined.  We  were  ac- 
companied by  an  intelligent  gentleman  from  Aracaty, 
a principal  port  and  town  of  the  province,  situated 
thirty  leagues  to  the  south-east,  on  the  river  Jaguaribe, 
twenty-four  miles  from  its  mouth.  Our  course  lay 
along  the  sea-beach  westward  about  two  leagues,  and 


SANDY  DESERTS. 


221 


thence  turned  inland  to  the  spot  on  which,  as  its  pre- 
sent appellation  indicates,  the  town  of  Ceara  was  first 
located.  This  place  is  on  the  bank  of  the  Ceara  river, 
which  furnished  some  advantages  for  a port,  that  the 
present  harbor  does  not.  It  lacks,  however,  any  pro- 
minent point  of  land  to  protect  and  distinguish  it;  and 
it  is  believed  that  in  view  of  all  things  the  change  was 
well  advised. 

There  still  remains  an  atterado,  or  turnpike,  con- 
structed by  the  Dutch  during  the  period  of  their  con- 
quest. This  is  the  only  monument  of  former  times 
that  remains  to  distinguish  the  locality  as  ever  having 
been  occupied  by  man.  During  this  ride,  I had  a spe- 
cimen of  the  sandy  deserts,  which,  on  a small  scale, 
are  to  be  found  in  certain  portions  of  this  and  the 
neighboring  provinces.  Nothing  that  I saw  elsewhere 
so  much  resembled  the  drifted  snows  of  the  northern 
hemisphere.  The  winds  have  here  exhibited  the  play- 
fulness of  their  fancy,  as  completely  as  they  ever  do 
among  the  lighter  and  more  perishable  materials  of 
the  cold  winter  storm.  Cones,  pyramids,  and  trun- 
cated mounds  of  various  sizes,  had  been  erected  by 
them,  with  sometimes  a long  level  intervening,  only 
marked  by  waving  lines  like  a slightly  ruffled  sea. 

As  we  approached  the  river,  the  soil  appeared  more 
fertile,  and  was  covered  with  vegetation,  both  wild  and 
cultivated.  The  house  at  Villa  Velha  was  quite  indif- 
ferent, and  the  owner  intended  soon  to  supply  its  place 
with  a new  one.  The  principal  establishment  con- 
nected with  it  is  called  an  engenho  de  rapadura.  Sugar 
in  such  establishments  is  manufactured  only  in  its 
crude  state,  and  is  cast  into  small  cakes  for  domestic 
consumption.  We  arrived  by  moonlight,  and  found 

t2 


222 


THE  CAMPOS. 


the  family  awaiting  us.  The  evening  was  passed  in 
animated  conversation ; the  revolution  in  Maranham, 
from  which  place  I had  just  come,  forming  the  princi- 
pal topic.  At  the  time  for  rest,  I retired  to  a ham- 
mock, swung  up  in  a large  shed  built  to  cover  the 
cauldrons  in  which  the  guarapa  was  boiled.  Sleep 
proved  sweet  and  refreshing.  The  next  morning,  after 
an  early  breakfast,  we  returned  to  the  city  by  a more 
direct  road  through  the  campos.  The  soil  here  wTas 
occasionally  covered  with  patches  of  trees,  in  the  man- 
ner of  the  oak-openings  of  the  United  States.  Some 
of  them  bore  valuable  fruits.  We  passed  a place 
which  was  once  evidently  the  site  of  a lake,  now  dried 
up.  At  this  locality  I found  an  immense  quantity  of 
interesting  land-shells. 


CEARA. 


223 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

Province  of  Ceard. — Cattle. — Carnauba  Palms. — Inhabitants. — In- 
dians.— Food. — Floods  and  Drought. — Statistics. — Low  state  of 
Finance. — Proposed  Province  of  Cayriri  Novo. — Party  Strife  — Exe- 
cution of  Criminals. — Sabbath  at  Sea. — Company. — Province  of 
Piauhy. 

The  province  of  Ceara  is  very  large,  and  in  many 
respects  important.*  But  for  the  vicissitudes  of  climate 
to  which  it  is  subject,  it  would  be  one  of  the  most 
productive  regions  of  the  empire.  The  sandy  downs 
which  give  the  coast  so  desolate  an  appearance,  do  not 
prevail  throughout  the  interior.  Even  they  are  not 
wanting  in  fertility,  when  properly  irrigated;  how  much 
more  valuable,  then,  must  be  the  genial  soil  of  the  up- 
lands of  the  interior?  Cotton,  dyewoods,  and  hides, 
form  the  principal  exports  at  present.  The  cattle  of 
Ceara  are  celebrated  for  their  noble  form,  and  their 
patient  endurance  of  the  yoke  under  circumstances 
which  it  would  be  impossible  for  the  animals  of  a 
colder  climate  to  support.  Not  less  is  their  flesh  es- 
teemed, herds  of  them  being  often  driven  to  supply  the 
distant  markets  of  Pernambuco  and  Bahia.  Although 
the  preparation  of  jerked  beef  is  not  so  common  here 
as  in  Rio  Grande  do  Sul,  yet  it  is  carried  on  to  a con- 
siderable extent,  the  article  being  known  as  came  do 
sertao,  instead  of  carne  secca. 

There  prevails  in  this  province  a great  abundance 
of  the  carnauba  palm,  (coriphera  cerifera.)  These 
trees  are  not  less  valuable  than  the  cocoa  palms  of 
Itamaraca,  which  they  even  rival  in  beauty.  They 


224 


INDIANS. 


furnish  food,  houses,  and  raiment.  Besides  an  edible 
fruit,  their  palmito,  the  tender  extremity  of  their  flower 
stem,  is  large  and  deemed  delicious  when  prepared  for 
the  table.  Their  trunks  are  remarkably  regular  and 
strong,  serving  either  for  fuel  or  the  construction  of 
dwellings.  To  form  an  exterior  wall,  they  are  driven 
into  the  earth  in  rows,  and  the  interstices  filled  with 
mud.  Being  split  open  in  the  middle,  they  are  used 
as  rafters  to  sustain  tiled  roofs.  The  outer  envelop 
of  the  flower-bud  is  a thin  bark,  wroven  by  nature,  and 
sometimes  used  for  garments.  The  splendid  leaves 
and  branches  of  the  tree  form  a handsome  and  durable 
thatch  ; and  I was  told  that  the  fibres  of  its  root  sub- 
serve, in  some  cases,  important  medicinal  purposes. 

The  great  natural  advantages  of  this  country  must 
be  noted  among  the  existing1  causes  of  its  low  state  of 
improvement.  The  stern  voice  of  necessity,  “work  or 
die,”  never  disturbs  the  day  dreams  of  the  Brazilian, 
as  he  yawns  in  his  hammock  during  the  bright  hours 
of  sunshine.  The  great  mass  of  the  lower  classes  live 
as  they  list.  Their  wants  are  few  and  simple,  and  to 
a great  degree  conformed  to  the  spontaneous  produc- 
tions of  nature.  Multitudes  of  Indians  inhabit  Ceara, 
in  a-state  of  semi-barbarism.  As  a general  rule,  they 
are  idle  and  vicious,  living  chiefly  upon  indigenous 
fruits,  or  those  which  are  cultivated  with  scarcely  any 
trouble — but  seeking  occasional  plunder. 

At  a former  period  they  were  under  an  excellent 
system  of  police,  and  could  be  hired  in  any  number  to 
work  on  the  plantations  of  cultivators.  This  regimen 
has  long  since  disappeared,  and  the  wretched  beings 
are  now  of  no  service  to  themselves  or  to  any  one  else. 
Although  their  degradation  and  pitiable  state  are  re- 


FOOD. 


225 


ferred  to  in  every  president’s  report,  yet  from  year  to 
year  no  proper  efforts  are  made  for  their  instruction  or 
improvement.  Slaves  at  the  same  time  are  compara- 
tively scarce  in  the  province.  This  is  a circumstance 
lamented  by  the  people  generally  as  a great  calamity; 
but  it  is  easy  to  believe  that  indolence  enough  prevails 
there  already.  It  would  be  excessive  cruelty  to  enslave 
others,  so  that  more  of  it  might  be  indulged.  As  an 
illustration  of  this  idea,  I will  mention  the  fact,  that 
the  melancia  or  watermelon,  which  grows  to  a large 
size  in  all  parts  of  Brazil,  is  produced  here  in  unwonted 
profusion.  During  their  season  these  melons  are  not 
only  eaten  as  a dessert,  but  as  a principal  article  of 
food,  especially  by  the  Indians  and  mixed  races.  So 
abundant  are  they,  as  to  be  sold  frequently  at  the  rate 
of  twenty  cents  per  hundred.  Thus,  for  a single  penny, 
could  be  purchased  as  much  as  a man  would  consume 
in  a week. 

Thousands  of  these  people,  in  the  interior,  have  never 
seen  the  article  of  bread.  An  anecdote  was  related  to 
me  of  a matuto  from  the  far  sertao,  who,  on  visiting 
Aracaty,  resolved  to  gratify  his  curiosity  respecting 
what  he  had  so  often  heard  of  as  a great  foreign  lux- 
ury. He  accordingly  went  to  a baker’s  shop  and  pur- 
chased a hat  full  of  rolls,  and  then  seated  himself  under 
a tree  and  commenced  paring  them,  as  he  would 
oranges  or  bananas.  The  taste,  however,  did  not 
please  his  palate,  and  he  soon  threw  them  away  as 
unfit  to  be  eaten,  exclaiming,  doubtless,  “nao  presta 
para  nada.” 

It  is  difficult  to  say  which  is  the  greater  scourge  of 
these  regions,  the  freshets  or  the  droughts.  The  former 
result  from  long-continued  rains  in  the  early  part  of  the 

Vol.  II.— 29 


226 


FLOODS  AND  DROUGHT. 


season,  which  destroy  cotton  in  the  blossom,  and  affect 
very  unfavorably  other  branches  of  agriculture,  at  the 
same  time  causing  the  streams  to  swell,  overleap  their 
boundaries,  and  ravage  the  changeable  surface  of  the 
soil.  During  the  droughts,  years  have  been  known 
to  pass  by  without  rain.  At  such  times  vegetation 
perishes,  and  both  animals  and  human  beings  die  off 
without  number.  It  was  painful  to  listen  to  the  de- 
scriptions given  of  these  seccas,  and  the  famine  conse- 
quent upon  them.  I was  prepared  to  understand  them 
by  the  details  previously  given  me  of  a similar  scene, 
which  a gentleman,  with  whom  I met  in  Pernambuco, 
had  witnessed  a few  years  previously  in  Rio  Grande 
do  INorte.  Absolute  starvation  prevailed  in  the  country, 
and  the  only  hope  of  the  inhabitants  was  in  finding 
their  way  to  parts  of  the  coast  to  which  supplies  had 
been  brought  from  abroad.  Hundreds  died  upon  the 
way,  and  their  emaciated  corpses  were  scattered  upon 
the  sand,  often  without  interment,  but  so  emaciated 
and  withered  as  scarcely  to  taint  the  air,  or  offbr  a 
banquet  to  the  worm.  Some  who  had  strength  to  ar- 
rive, and  money  with  which  to  purchase  food,  survived. 
Others  arrived  too  late,  and  being  so  exhausted  and 
enfeebled,  that  the  morsel  which  they  craved  to  sustain 
life  only  served  to  hasten  their  dissolution. 

The  province  of  Ceara  is  estimated  to  contain  one 
hundred  and  eighty  thousand  inhabitants.  In  the  year 
1841  there  were  in  operation  within  its  boundaries 
thirty-one  primary  schools,  frequented  by  eight  hun- 
dred and  thirty  pupils  ; and  seven  Latin  schools,  with 
forty-six  pupils.  The  number  of  soldiers  embraced  in 
the  different  sections  of  the  national  guards,  the  militia 
of  the  country,  was  about  eleven  thousand.  The  House 


PROPOSED  PROVINCE. 


227 


of  Correction  belonging  to  the  province,  was  occupied 
by  eighteen  delinquents.  Its  prisons  were  few,  and 
generally  insufficient  to  prevent  the  escape  of  criminals. 
The  following  is  the  official  list  of  crimes  committed 
during  the  year,  between  July  1840  and  July  1841: — 
Murders,  72;  attempt  to  murder,  15;  threat,  1;  seri- 
ous wounds,  20;  light  wounds,  24;  physical  injuries,  4; 
robbery,  10;  theft,  17 ; rape,  3;  calumny  and  injury,  8; 
use  of  prohibited  arms,  2;  prevarication,  1 ; disobe- 
dience, 15;  defalcation,  2;  abuse  of  authority,  1;  sedi- 
tion, 1 — total,  196. 

The  religious  establishment  was  manifestly  deterio- 
rating. “ This  unquestionable  fact,”  says  president 
Coelho,  “ is  not  only  chargeable  upon  a clergy,  (with 
some  honorable  exceptions,)  ignorant,  depraved  in 
habits,  corrupt  in  morals,  involved  in  the  concerns  of 
the  world,  and  totally  forgetful  of  their  heavenly  mis- 
sion ; but  is  also  due  to  the  indifference  with  which  the 
legislature  treats  the  wants  of  the  church.” 

Not  long  since  a proposition  was  made  to  the  Na- 
tional Assembly  to  erect  a new  inland  province,  to  be 
composed  of  portions  of  the  present  provinces  of  Ceara, 
Pernambuco,  Parahiba,  and  Piauhy.  The  projected 
province  was  to  be  called  Cayriri  Novo,  and  to  have 
for  its  capital  the  villa  of  Crato.  It  would  embrace 
the  most  fertile  portions  of  the  several  provinces  of 
which  it  was  to  be  composed,  but  would  lack  a single 
navigable  river  or  port  of  entry.  A general  desire  for 
improvement  seems  to  prevail  in  Ceara,  and  various 
important  enterprises  have  been  projected;  but  the 
depressed  state  of  finances,  both  in  the  provincial  and 
municipal  treasury,  has,  for  a series  of  years,  proved  an 
insurmountable  obstacle  to  their  completion.  The 


228 


EXECUTION. 


reflector,  and  other  apparatus  of  a light-house,  which  is 
very  much  needed  on  point  Micoripe,  had  been  im- 
ported from  England,  and  lain  in  the  custom-house  four 
years  for  want  of  funds  to  put  it  in  operation.  Lamps 
and  fixtures  for  lighting  the  streets  of  the  town  had 
been  provided — but  up  to  the  present,  there  was  a lack 
of  funds  to  supply  them  with  oil.  There  was  not  a 
single  cemetery  or  grave-yard  for  the  use  of  the  city. 
All  the  interments  were  made,  from  year  to  year,  in 
the  solitary  church  of  the  town,  which  was  thus  ren- 
dered, as  the  president  expresses  it,  “the  very  focus  of 
putrefaction  and  pestilence.” 

Unhappily,  the  animosities  of  political  strife  have 
greatly  agitated  and  injured  the  province  of  Ceara. 
Although  open  violence  has  seldom  broken  out,  yet  the 
unceasing  rivalry  and  contentions  of  parties  have  re- 
peatedly threatened  it. 

( 

In  going  to  the  praya,  previous  to  my  final  embarca- 
tion  from  the  city  of  Fortaleza,  I passed  through  a 
large  square  near  the  fort,  where,  a few  days  before, 
six  criminals  had  been  executed.  They  were  all  Af- 
ricans, and  perhaps  all  slaves,  who,  serving  as  seamen 
on  board  a brig  bound  from  Maranham  to  Pernam- 
buco, had  mutinied  and  murdered  the  captain,  part  of 
the  crew,  and  some  of  the  passengers.  After  commit- 
ting this  crime,  they  scuttled  the  vessel  and  sank  her 
near  the  shore,  a short  distance  to  windward  of  Ceara. 
Their  object  was  probably  to  gain  both  plunder  and 
freedom ; but  on  going  ashore,  they  were  soon  appre- 
hended by  the  authorities  of  the  province,  tried,  and 
summarily  condemned.  The  manner  of  execution  was 
by  hanging.  The  drop  is  not  in  use.  The  scaffold 
(forca)  is  of  a triangular  form,  placed  upon  three  posts 


SABBATH  AT  SEA. 


229 


set  in  the  ground.  It  is  ascended  by  a ladder,  and 
when  the  rope  is  adjusted,  the  culprit  is  pushed  off  by 
the  executioner,  who,  to  expedite  the  work  of  death, 
jumps  down  upon  the  shoulders  of  the  victim,  and  thus 
hastens  his  suffocation. 

On  re-embarking  to  pursue  our  voyage  to  the  north, 
I sent  off,  by  the  Piloto  Mo'r,  a quantity  of  books  and 
tracts  to  the  various  friends  with  whom  I had  become 
acquainted.  Our  course  lay  north-west,  out  of  sight  of 
land.  The  second  day  out,  being  Sabbath,  the  cap- 
tain expressed  a desire  that  I would  conduct  religious 
exercises  for  the  passengers  and  crew.  Owing,  how- 
ever, to  the  necessity  of  coals  being  constantly  handled 
for  the  engine,  no  suitable  opportunity  occurred.  I 
endeavored  as  much  as  I could  to  supply  the  lack  of 
such  service,  by  visiting  the  men  who  were  unemploy- 
ed, and  furnishing  them  with  appropriate  reading. 
The  captain  of  this  packet,  also  a captain  in  the  Bra- 
zilian navy,  wras  favorable  to  any  enterprise  which 
promised  to  promote  the  welfare  of  his  crew.  He  had, 
on  my  first  coming  on  board,  expressed  a hope  that  I 
would  accomplish  as  great  a miracle  through  my  ef- 
forts in  behalf  of  temperance,  as  he  understood  I had 
done  on  board  the  St.  Sebastian. 

One  of  the  passengers,  a Brazilian  naval  officer,  on 
his  way  to  Maranham,  read  with  much  attention,  and 
apparent  interest,  the  publications  in  Portuguese  which 
I was  able  to  put  in  his  hands.  He  also  accepted,  with 
much  pleasure,  a Testament,  and  his  lady  a copy  of 
the  Psalms,  which  I offered  them.  This  lady  was 
young,  beautiful,  and  accomplished.  She  had  never 
before  been  out  from  Rio  de  Janeiro,  and  now  seemed 
to  be  full  of  apprehension  that  she  might  never  return. 

U 


230 


COMPANY. 


Her  husband  was  equally  full  of  joy  at  the  idea  of  win- 
ning laurels  in  the  service  of  his  country;  but  of  what 
value  would  these  be  to  her  in  case  he  fell  in  the  con- 
test. Nor  were  these  prospective  evils  all  she  had  to 
suffer.  Her  delicate  frame  had  been  prostrated  by 
sea-sickness,  repeated  attacks  of  which  had  won  for 
her  the  sympathies  of  our  entire  company. 

We  had  also  in  the  cabin,  during  this  voyage,  an- 
other naval  officer,  of  more  advanced  age  and  higher 
rank  than  the  lieutenant  just  referred  to.  He  was  a 
capitao  de  fragata,  and  carried  a commission  appoint- 
ing him  to  the  superintendence  of  the  marine  arsenal 
at  Para,  whither  he  was  bound.  This  individual  was 
of  Portuguese  birth,  Dutch  education,  and  Brazilian 
citizenship.  His  opportunities  had  been  very  consi- 
derable, and  he  manifested  an  extensive  acquaintance 
with  the  world.  He  was  very  sociable,  and  I was  in- 
debted to  him,  during  the  passage,  for  frequent  occa- 
sions of  animated  conversation.  He  claimed  to  be 
entirely  unprejudiced  on  the  subject  of  religion,  but 
was,  nevertheless,  a firm  Catholic.  Many  of  his  sen- 
timents, however,  even  in  this  view,  were  by  no  means 
orthodox.  He  rejected  the  idea  that  there  is  no  sal- 
vation out  of  the  church,  and  maintained  the  opinion 
that  the  religion  in  which  any  man  was  born  was  the 
best  for  him,  thus  making  the  vilest  Paganism  equal 
to  Christianity.  He  scouted  the  idea  of  the  real  pre- 
sence, and  thought  that  the  cup  was  an  essential  part 
of  the  sacrament;  yet  he  extenuated  licentiousness 
among  the  clergy,  and  had  little  concern  to  see  any 
improvement  in  the  morals  and  piety  of  either  priest 
or  people. 

The  province  of  Piauhy,  to  which  we  were  now  op- 


SINGULAR  SALT  MINES. 


23  L 


posite,  has  only  about  sixty  miles  of  coast  bordering 
on  the  Atlantic.  Towards  the  south  it  extends  nearly 
four  hundred  miles,  and  is,  at  some  points,  three  hun- 
dred miles  in  width.  The  prevailing  character  of  the 
surface  of  Piauhy  is  level,  although  it  is  occasionally 
dotted  with  high  and  abrupt  hills.  Its  extensive  plains 
exhibit  but  few  trees ; and  although  rather  desolate 
during  periods  of  drought,  afford,  in  the  rainy  seasons, 
delicious  pasturage,  and  sustain  immense  quantities  of 
cattle.  The  soil  is  adapted  to  the  cultivation  of  man- 
dioca,  corn,  rice,  sugar-cane,  and  cotton.  It  also 
covers  some  mines  of  silver,  iron,  and  lead — which, 
however,  are  wrought  to  no  considerable  extent. 

The  climate  is  of  necessity  warm,  and  the  country 
is,  in  many  places,  subject  to  malignant  fevers.  Spix 
and  Martius  traversed  this  province  in  1818.  One 
special  object  of  their  visit  was  to  examine  a huge 
mass  of  meteoric  iron,  the  fame  of  which  had  spread 
over  the  whole  country.  After  enduring  great  fatigue 
and  sufferings  on  their  rout,  they  at  length  reached 
the  object  of  their  search.  But  such  was  the  hardness 
of  the  aerolite  that  they  were  unable,  during  several 
days’  labor,  to  detach  a single  fragment  which  they 
could  bear  away  as  a specimen. 

They  found,  on  the  banks  of  one  of  the  tributaries 
of  the  San  Francisco,  some  salt  mines  of  a very  sin- 
gular character.  The  rock  in  the  neighborhood  is  a 
species  of  conglomerate,  in  which  quartz,  mica,  and 
new  red-sandstone  are  mingled,  associated  probably 
with  gypsum.  The  salt  appears  in  a light  yellowish 
earth,  mixed  with  the  vegetable  mould  covering  the 
rock.  When  this  exterior  crust  has  been  completely 
wet  by  the  rains,  and  the  sun’s  rays  have  exhausted 


232 


SALT  A CIRCULATING  MEDIUM. 


the  humidity,  the  surface  remains  covered  with  small 
saline  crystals.  At  this  juncture  the  earth  is  scraped 
with  palm-leaves  to  the  depth  of  an  inch,  and  thrown 
into  water.  The  solution  is  then  exposed  to  the  sun 
in  large  wooden  dishes  (gamellas),  or  upon  ox-hides, 
elevated  severally  upon  four  stakes.  When  the  earthy 
sediment  has  fallen  to  the  bottom,  the  brine  is  made 
to  flow  into  other  vessels,  where  it  becomes  crystalized 
in  a pure  state.  This  manufacture  of  salt  is  of  vast 
importance  to  a widely  extended  inland  country.  Not 
less  curious  than  the  manner  of  its  manufacture,  is  the 
fact  that  the  article  is,  to  a great  extent,  the  circu- 
lating medium  of  the  sertao.  At  certain  periods  the 
people  assemble  from  all  directions  to  procure  this 
precious  commodity,  each  lump  of  which  is  valued  at 
twenty  or  thirty  reis,  one  or  one  and  a half  cent.  It 
has  been  stated,  that  even  the  priests,  and  the  civil 
officers  of  these  secluded  regions,  receive  their  salaries 
in  the  salt  currency. 

The  principal  river  of  Piauliy  is  the  Parnahiba.  It 
flows  through  the  province  in  a northerly  direction, 
and  receives  various  tributaries  on  either  hand.  Near 
its  mouth  it  divides  into  six  channels,  and  thus  forms 
several  islands  on  the  border  of  the  ocean. 

The  province  does  not  contain  any  seaport  of  im- 
portance. Its  capital  is  the  city  of  Oeyras,  a town  of 
about  five  thousand  inhabitants,  situated  nearly  three 
hundred  miles  in  the  interior.  The  Baron  of  Parna- 
hiba,  who  had  been  for  several  years  president  of 
Piauliy,  states  in  one  of  his  recent  reports,  that  “ Ele- 
mentary instruction  has  been  established  in  the  pro- 
vince to  some  extent,  but  that  it  meets  with  serious 
embarrassment,  owing  to  the  absolute  lack  of  teachers, 


OFFICIAL  STATEMENTS. 


233 


qualified  either  in  learning  or  morals,  for  the  task.” 
I also  translate  his  remarks  respecting  justice  and 
ecclesiastical  affairs.  “ The  picture  which  I must  pre- 
sent to  the  legislature  of  the  administration  of  justice, 
is  by  no  means  flattering.  The  province  is  divided 
into  five  comarcas.  Three  of  these  are  under  very 
good  regulations,  through  the  influence  of  competent 
civil  officers.  In  the  other  two  the  mockery  of  justice 
is  horrible.  An  absolute  anarchy  prevails.  The  au- 
thorities are  at  war  among  themselves ; and  although 
barbarous  and  public  assassinations  take  place,  yet 
their  perpetrators  go  unconvicted  and  unpunished.  If 
I am  to  speak  correctly  of  the  state  of  ecclesiastical 
affairs,  I must  say  that  they  could  scarcely  be  in  a 
worse  condition  than  they  are.  It  appears  as  though 
fate,  in  contravention  of  our  good,  does  not  cease  to 
harass  us.” 

“ The  province  contains  thirteen  parishes  connected 
with  the  bishopric  of  Maranham.  Six  of  these  only 
are  supplied  with  regular  vicars,  of  whom  three  are 
unable  to  exercise  their  functions  through  old  age  and 
infirmity.  Great  difficulties  arise  from  the  necessity 
of  procuring  matrimonial  licenses  at  so  great  a dis- 
tance and  expense  as  the  journey  to  Maranham  in- 
volves. Our  churches  are,  in  most  instances,  ffoino- 
to  ruin,  and  some  are  absolutely  demolished.  They 
demand  repairs,  but  there  are  no  funds  that  can  be 
appropriated  for  the  object.  The  finances  of  the  pro- 
vince generally  are  in  a critical  state,  receiving  as 
they  do  little  or  no  augmentation  from  foreign  com- 
merce.” 

Vol.  II. — 30  u 2 


234 


ITACOLUMI. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 


Itacolumi. — Entrance  to  Maranham. — The  Town. — The  Province.— 
Rebellion. — Sack  of  Caxias. — City  of  Maranham. — Lyceum. — Tem- 
perance Press. — Circulation  of  Scriptures. — Rccolhimento. — Disco- 
very.— Early  History. — The  French. — Gomez  Freire. — Progress  of 
Society. — Revolution  of  Independence. — Lord  Cochrane. — Abran- 
ches. — Movements  of  the  Admiral. — His  Cotton  Speculation. 

On  the  second  morning  after  leaving  Ceara,  we 
came  in  sight  of  land,  and  soon  had  in  full  view  before 
us  the  mountain  of  Itacolumi.  This  is  an  aboriginal 
name,  signifying  giant.  It  has  been  applied  to  a 
mountain  in  the  province  of  Minas  Geraes,  and  also, 
by  mineralogists,  to  the  peculiar  rock  of  which  that 
mountain  is  composed.  The  imaginary  figure  formed 
by  the  outline  of  the  Gavia,  the  Corcovado,  and  the 
Sugar-Loaf,  as  seen  off  Rio  de  Janeiro,  has  been 
sometimes  called  Itacolumi.  The  eminence  which  here 
receives  the  name,  is  of  a regularly  conical  shape.  Its 
size  is  not  great,  although  being  the  only  abrupt  ele- 
vation in  all  the  surrounding  region,  it  is  easily  dis- 
tinguished from  a distance  at  sea.  A light-house  has 
recently  been  constructed  near  the  base  of  this  moun- 
tain, which  is  the  principal  landmark  for  the  port  of 
Maranham,  fifty  miles  distant.  The  island  of  Santa 
Anna,  which  we  had  already  passed  on  our  left,  may 
be  regarded  as  the  next  in  importance.  It  also  has  a 
light-house.  Our  course  was  now  towards  the  south, 
with  the  island  of  Maranham  on  our  left  hand,  and  the 
main  land,  skirted  hy  red  marly  bluffs,  upon  the  right. 
The  width  of  the  entrance  gradually  diminished  as  we 


MARANHAM.  235 

advanced,  and  the  bay  appeared  spotted  with  nume- 
rous small  islands. 

The  village  of  Alcantara  is  seen  on  the  main  land  as 
we  pass  up,  and  the  Fortaleza  de  S.  Marcos  is  the  first 
work  of  art  to  be  observed  on  the  island  of  Maranham. 
Upon  its  battery  is  planted  the  telegraph  which  com- 
municates with  the  fort  S.  Antonio,  situated  on  the 
Ponta  das  Areas,  near  the  city.  At  the  second  fort 
we  were  hailed  through  a speaking  trumpet  in  the 
usual  style : “ Donde  vem ?” — “Whence  do  you  come?” 
“Q,uantos  dias  de  viagem?” — “How  many  days  out?” 
As  no  pilot  came  off,  our  captain  undertook  the  task 
of  conducting  his  vessel  through  the  tortuous  and  vari- 
able channel  leading  to  the  anchorage,  and  he  accom- 
plished it  handsomely.  A Brazilian  corvette  and  two 
brigs  of  war,  a French  brig  of  war,  and  a variety  of 
merchant  vessels,  were  lying  at  their  moorings  in  the 
stream.  We  let  go  our  anchor  close  under  an  ancient 
rampart  fronting  the  government  palace,  from  which 
several  heavy  pieces  of  artillery  seemed  to  frown 
directly  upon  us,  while  a splendid  Brazilian  flag  was 
floating  over  them.  The  landing-place  is  close  along- 
side the  fort,  and  being  constructed  of  stone,  seems  to 
have  suffered  but  little  from  the  influence  of  time.  A 
paved  road  leads  up  from  the  landing  to  a large  un- 
adorned square,  surrounded  by  the  Palace,  now  the 
Cathedral,  the  Bishop’s  Palace,  and  other  important 
buildings,  most  of  which  were  departments  of  the  ci- 
dcvant  Jesuit’s  College. 

The  city  of  S.  Luiz  de  Maranham  is  situated  in  2° 
31'  S.  latitude,  and  44°  16'  W.  longitude.  It  occupies 
the  north-western  extremity  of  the  island  of  the  same 
name,  and  is  only  separated  from  the  continent  by  a 


236 


TI1E  PROVINCE. 


narrow  channel,  usually  denominated  Maranham  r iver. 
Its  population  is  estimated  at  thirty-three  thousand, 
including  a few  score  of  English  and  French,  occupied 
in  commercial  pursuits.  The  city  is  divided  into  two 
parishes,  and  contains  thirteen  churches  and  chapels, 
three  monasteries,  one  recolhimento  of  educandas,  and 
six  hospitals,  of  which  the  Misericordia  is  the  princi- 
pal. Its  educational  establishment  consists  of  a lyceum, 
a Latin  school,  two  primary  schools  for  boys,  two  for 
girls,  four  private  schools,  and  an  ecclesiastical  semi- 
nary, located  in  one  of  the  monasteries.  This  city 
ranks  as  the  fourth  in  the  empire.  It  is  the  capital  of 
the  rich  and  important  province  of  the  same  name. 

The  territory  of  this  province  is  rather  uneven  in  its 
surface,  although  it  has  not  a single  range  of  moun- 
tains. It  is  watered  by  a large  number  of  rivers,  both 
great  and  small.  It  remains  to  a great  extent  covered 
with  forests,  in  which  valuable  woods  and  precious 
drugs  are  abundant.  The  soil  is  peculiarly  adapted  to 
the  cultivation  of  rice,  which  it  produces  in  vast  quan- 
tities. Cotton  thrives  much  more  than  the  sugar-cane. 
The  indigenous  fruits  are  numerous  and  rich.  The 
pineapples  and  bananas,  of  several  species,  deserve 
mention  for  especial  excellence.  Mineral  riches  have 
not  been  withheld  from  this  portion  of  the  globe.  Fine 
strata  of  old  red-sandstone  furnish  an  excellent  and 
common  material  for  building;  while  iron  and  lead 
ores,  and  antimony,  have  been  discovered,  although 
they  have  not  yet  been  turned  to  public  advantage. 
Fish  abound  in  the  waters  of  the  province;  and  herds 
of  sheep,  cattle,  and  horses,  multiply  rapidly  on  the 
plantations  of  the  interior. 

The  period  of  my  visit  to  this  province  was  one  of 


REBELLION. 


237 


painful  interest,  on  account  of  a civil  war  in  which 
large  portions  of  it  had  become  involved.  Rebellion 
had  broken  out  under  the  pretext  of  dissatisfaction 
with  a recent  law,  requiring  the  offices  of  Juiz  de 
direito  and  Juiz  de  paz,  to  be  substituted  by  prefects 
and  sub-prefects  officers,  having  a more  absolute  juris- 
diction. To  this  had  been  added  a rumored  intention 
of  the  whites  to  enslave  the  whole  colored  and  mixed 
population.  A few  desperate  individuals,  having  no 
higher  ends  in  view  than  murder,  robbery,  and  plunder, 
managed  to  awaken  an  incendiary  spirit  among  the 
ignorant  and  vicious,  with  which  the  province  must 
have  abounded,  and  commenced  their  attacks  upon 
defenceless  individuals  and  families,  at  a time  when 
nothing  of  the  kind  was  expected.  Meeting  with  but 
little  opposition,  they  at  length  besieged  the  city  of 
Caxias,  on  the  river  Itapicuru. 

This  town  was  second  only  to  the  capital,  in  wealth, 
population,  and  the  importance  of  its  commerce.  It 
was  besieged  a month  by  the  Beintevis,  as  the  insur- 
gents called  themselves,  after  a common  and  favorite 
bird  of  the  country,  and  its  final  loss  was  chiefly  owing 
to  some  unfortunate  dissensions  among  its  inhabitants. 
An  indiscriminate  pillage  followed  the  capture.  What- 
ever merchandize  the  ruffians  could  not  use  immediate- 
ly, they  devoted  to  destruction.  Two  or  three  hundred 
of  the  principal  inhabitants  they  threw  into  prison, 
murdering  others,  and  suffering  but  few  to  escape. 
The  news  of  these  alarming  events  had  spread  con- 
sternation and  terror  through  the  province,  and  the 
inhabitants  had  fled  by  hundreds  to  the  capital,  as  the 
only  place  where  they  could  be  sure  of  protection.  The 
province  had  been  immediately  put  under  military  law, 


238 


CITY  OF  MARANHAM. 


and  the  city  fortified.  There  were,  however,  only  a 
few  troops  on  hand,  and  there  was  no  certainty  that 
the  rebels,  in  the  tide  of  their  success,  might  not  come 
down  upon  Maranham.  Indeed,  it  is  probable  that 
such  would  have  been  the  case,  and  that  the  city  would 
have  been  sacked,  but  for  the  fortunate  introduction  of 
steam  navigation  just  at  that  juncture.  Intelligence 
had  been  conveyed  along  the  coast  by  the  steam 
packets,  which  caused  troops  to  be  immediately  sent  to 
the  aid  of  the  Maranhenses.  Dispatches  had  even 
been  received  from  the  capital  in  a shorter  time  than 
would  have  been  required  by  some  sailing  vessels  to 
beat  around  Cape  St.  Roque.* 

Officers,  arms,  and  munitions  of  war,  had  been 
promptly  sent  on  from  Rio,  so  that  the  city  was  not 
only  garrisoned,  but  detachments  went  into  the  interior 
to  attack  the  rebels  in  their  own  resorts.  Fortunately, 
they  were  not  difficult  of  conquest,  wherever  they  could 
be  reached.  They  had  become  intoxicated  with  suc- 
cess, and  the  same  passions  which  led  them  to  practise 
cruelty  and  murder  upon  their  peaceful  fellow-citizens, 
soon  led  them  to  destroy  one  another.  Several  of  the 
leaders,  who  had  enriched  themselves  with  plunder, 
were  assassinated  by  their  own  followers,  and  their 
plunder  was  in  turn  divided  as  the  price  of  blood. 
Nevertheless,  months  were  required  to  pacify  the  pro- 
vince; and  during  both  my  visits  to  Maranham,  the 
city  was  daily  and  nightly  patroled  by  soldiers  bearing 
arms.  All  hostile  approach  by  water  was  guarded 

* Southey  mentions  the  case  of  a vessel  sent  eastward  from  Maran- 
ham in  1656,  having  troops  on  board  for  some  special  emergency, 
which,  after  having  been  out  fifty  days,  a time  long  enough  to  exhaust 
her  provisions,  found  it  necessary  to  put  back,  and  in  twelve  hours 
reached  the  port  she  had  left. 


BEAUTY  OF  THE  CITY. 


239 


against  by  the  forts  and  batteries  in  front ; and  in  the 
rear  of  the  town  a ditch  had  been  dug,  and  an  embank- 
ment thrown  up,  along  which  cannon  were  ranged,  and 
picket-guards  were  stationed  to  watch  against  any 
attack  from  the  interior  of  the  island. 

Maranham  is  believed  to  be  better  built,  as  a whole, 
than  any  other  city  of  Brazil.  It  exhibits  a general 
neatness  and  an  air  of  enterprise,  which  rarely  appears 
in  the  other  towns  of  the  empire.  There  are,  more- 
over, within  its  bounds  but  few  huts  and  indifferent 
houses.  None  of  the  churches  appear  unusually  large 
or  sumptuous,  but  many  of  the  private  dwellings  are 
of  a superior  order.  The  style  of  construction  is  at 
once  elegant  and  durable.  The  walls  are  massive, 
being  composed  of  stone  broken  fine  and  laid  in  cement. 
Although  the  town  does  not  occupy  a large  extent  of 
ground,  yet  the  surface  it  covers  is  very  unequal.  Its 
site  extends  over  two  hills,  and  consequently,  a valley. 
The  rise  and  descent  in  the  streets  are  in  many  places 
very  abrupt.  Scarcely  any  carriages  are  in  use,  and 
corresponding  to  this  circumstance,  there  is  only  one 
good  carriage  road  in  the  entire  vicinity.  That  road 
leads  a short  distance  out  of  town.  The  cadeira  is  but 
little  known  here  as  a means  of  conveyance.  The 
rede  or  hammock,  is  generally  used  as  a means  of  easy 
locomotion.  It  is  very  common,  both  in  Maranham 
and  Para,  to  see  ladies  in  this  manner  taking  their 
passeio  or  promenade.  Gentlemen  in  health,  do  not 
often  make  a public  appearance  in  this  style,  although 
it  is  generally  conceded  that  they  are  quite  fond  of 
swinging  in  their  hammocks  at  home. 

The  streets  of  Maranham  are  laid  out  with  consider- 
able regularity  as  it  respects  their  direction.  Their 


240 


A REDE. 


A REDE. 

width  is  good,  and  by  the  combined  agency  of  wind  and 
rain,  they  are  kept  unusually  clean.  The  pavements 
are  composed  of  a conglomerate  sandstone,  the  same 
that  is  used  for  buildings  ; but  as  they  have  no  grad- 
ings, nor  even  smooth  stones  for  side  walks,  they  are 
very  tiresome  and  unpleasant  to  foot  passengers.  The 
town  contains  several  ornamental  squares,  some  of 
which  are  bordered  by  shade  trees. 

One  of  the  most  interesting  walks  within  the  pre- 
cincts of  the  city,  is  to  the  Public  Cemetery,  which  has 
been  arranged  within  a few  years  in  the  immediate 
neighborhood  of  the  Misericordia.  Its  walls  all  around 
are  notched  for  catacumbas,  some  of  which  are  already 
occupied.  Curved  walks,  ornamented  with  blooming 


REMEDIOS. 


241 


flowers,  wind  in  every  direction  among  rows  of  promis- 
cuous graves.  Unfortunately,  the  dimensions  of  the 
cemetery  are  quite  too  small  for  so  large  a city.  The 
English  also  have  a cemetery,  laid  out  with  some  taste, 
in  which  Protestants  of  various  nations  have  been  in- 
terred. The  Quartel  dos  Militares,  or  barracks  of 
Maranham,  are  said  to  be  the  best  in  the  empire. 
They  occupy  an  elevated  and  commanding  position, 
being  constructed  in  the  usual  manner,  on  the  four 
sides  of  an  enclosed  square. 

The  northern  section  of  the  town  is  thought  to  be 
the  most  inviting  as  a place  of  residence.  It  is  usually 
called  Remedios,  in  honor  of  Nossa  Senhora  dos  Re- 
medios  Protectora  de  Commercio  e Naviffacao,  to 
whom  the  parish  church  is  dedicated.  This  neighbor- 
hood is  a place  of  great  resort  during  the  holidays ; and, 
at  the  time  of  my  visit,  the  church  and  several  adjoin- 
ing houses  were  being  whitewashed  and  ornamented, 
in  anticipation  of  some  approaching  festival.  A little 
beyond  the  Remedios  stands  a new  prison,  built  on  the 
American  plan;  or,  as  the  Brazilians  denominate  it, 
prisao  com  trabalho. 

During  my  stay  in  Maranham,  I was  favored  with 
the  attentions  of  an  American  gentleman,  long  a resi- 
dent of  the  city,  who  accompanied  me  in  visits  to  what- 
ever of  interest  the  city  contained ; and  also,  in  one 
instance,  towards  the  interior  of  the  island.  We  rode 
on  horseback,  and  visited  two  plantations,  one  of  which 
was  in  a fine  state  of  cultivation.  The  soil  is  generally 
barren,  and  but  poorly  repays  the  attentions  of  the 
cultivator.  In  this  respect  it  differs  from  the  neigh- 
boring continent;  probably,  on  account  of  containing  a 
greater  proportion  of  sand,  which,  in  the  hot  season, 

Vol.  II.— 31  Y 


242 


VISIT  TO  THE  LYCEUM. 


becomes  exceedingly  parched  and  dry.  In  its  natural 
state,  it  is  overgrown  with  a stunted  shrubbery. 

I was  much  pleased  with  my  visit  to  the  Lyceum. 
This  institution  holds  its  sessions,  by  order  of  the  go- 
vernment, in  the  Carmelite  convent — a large  building, 
which  was  never  intended  for  so  good  a purpose  as  it 
is  thus  made  to  serve.  Its  professorships  are  seven  in 
number,  viz. 

Latin  and  Greek,  Philosophy, 

English  and  French,  Geometry, 

History  and  Geography,  Design. 

Rhetoric, 

Its  pupils  w'ere  mostly  young.  Their  general  ap- 
pearance was  sprightly  and  interesting;  and,  in  several 
departments,  I witnessed  satisfactory  indications  of 
their  improvement.  The  library  contained  four  thou- 
sand volumes,  chiefly  in  French. 

The  inhabitants  of  Maranham  make  claim,  and  not 
w ithout  reason,  to  a degree  of  intelligence,  and  liberality 
of  views  and  feelings,  equal  to  that  of  the  larger  cities* 
of  the  empire.  So  long  as  they  persevere  in  their  recent 
efforts  at  improvement,  they  will  continue  to  deserve 
high  commendation  from  their  countrymen  and  others. 

Among  the  first  objects  of  interest  that  I observed, 
while  surveying  the  tow  n,  was  this  inscription,  in  large 
letters — Typographia  de  Temperan^a — indicating 
the  establishment  of  a Temperance  press,  the  first  and 
only  one  of  which  I heard  in  the  empire.  This  press, 
being  one  of  four  in  the  place,  has  been  the  means  of 
disseminating  the  principles  of  total  abstinence,  widely 
throughout  the  northern  portions  of  Brazil — as  I had 
the  pleasure  of  observing  in  Ceara.  It  has  issued  a 
variety  of  useful  publications  for  gratuitous  circulation, 


THE  SCRIPTURES. 


243 


most  of  which  have  been  translated  from  the  American 
journals  and  tracts  on  the  subject.  I found  the  pro- 
prietor of  the  establishment  an  intelligent  and  worthy 
individual,  two  of  whose  sons  had  received  their  edu- 
cation in  the  United  States.  At  his  office  I procured  a 
quantity  of  temperance  publications,  for  dissemination 
in  other  parts  of  the  empire;  leaving,  at  the  same 
time,  a quantity  of  Scriptures  for  his  use. 

On  my  return  from  Para,  I was  informed  that  a 
number  of  copies  had  been  put  in  circulation,  notwith- 
standing some  efforts  to  prevent  their  being  received 
by  the  people.  During  the  interval  of  my  absence,  a 
priest  from  Turi,  a place  between  Maranham  and 
Para,  had  reported  to  the  bishop  of  the  diocese  the 
strange  fact,  that  certain  Bibles  had  made  their  ap- 
pearance* in  his  parish,  whereupon  he  sought  the  advice 
of  his  superior,  with  respect  to  the  propriety  of  suffering 
them  to  be  read.  His  reverence,  the  diocesan,  was 
quite  an  old  man;  and,  either  on  account  of  his  being 
nervous,  or  because  his  feelings  were  not  of  the  most 
liberal  character,  as  was  more  than  hinted  to  me,  he 
became  wonderfully  alarmed.  The  whole  world  seemed 
to  him  to  be  turning  heretic.  Every  body  was  dis- 
trusted, while  the  faithful  were  immediately  warned, 
lest  they  should  be  contaminated  by  the  Bibles ; and 
lest,  by  some  miracle  or  coup  de  main , they  should  be 
at  once  catechized  into  Protestantism.  A priest  was 
dispatched  to  examine  the  books  I had  deposited  for 
distribution ; and,  it  was  to  be  hoped,  that  his  exami- 
nation was  quite  satisfactory,  since  no  report  was  ever 
made  to  the  world,  indicating  the  contrary.  The  pub- 
lic gave  but  little  heed  to  the  unnecessary  alarms  of  the 
old  bishop. 


244 


RECOLHIMENTO. 


On  one  of  my  early  morning  walks,  I paused  in  the 
chapel  of  the  Recolhimento,  and  listened  to  a doleful 
chanting  of  the  Ave  Maria  and  Gloria  Patri,  which,  for 
aught  I could  perceive,  was  destined  to  be  the  order  of 
the  day.  At  the  chapel  of  the  Franciscan  convent,  in 
the  midst  of  a formidable  collection  of  images,  there 
appeared,  suspended  in  a prominent  place,  a large 
number  of  diseased  hands,  feet,  arms,  legs,  and  other 
members  of  the  human  body;  or,  rather,  their  fac 
similes  in  wax — all  which  were  exhibited  as  trophies 
of  the  healing  power  of  the  glorious  founder  of  the  or- 
der. The  church  of  Nossa  Senhora  dos  Remedios  is 
small,  but  very  neat  and  plain  within.  A few  rods  in 
front  of  it  stands  an  Alpendre,  beside  which,  booths 
were  being  erected  for  the  convenience  and  entertain- 
ment of  the  people  at  the  festas. 

Notwithstanding  the  unhappy  influence  of  the  revo- 
lution upon  business  of  all  kinds,  yet  various  buildings 
were  going  up  in  different  parts  of  the  town.  The 
south-western  portion  of  the  city,  bordering  on  the 
river,  is  denominated  the  Varadouro,  and  is  not  dis- 
similar in  appearance  to  the  Prainha  of  Rio  de  Janeiro. 
This  section  contains  the  market-place,  located  in  an 
open  square.  In  one  part  of  the  square  the  merchants 
hold  their  exchange.  Here  also  is  an  ancient  edifice, 
built  by  a commercial  company,  formed  under  the 
patronage  of  the  Portuguese  government  in  1680,  and 
now  used  as  an  Alfandega.  In  the  same  neighborhood 
are  vast  cotton  warehouses,  some  of  which  contain 
cotton  presses  of  a rude  and  clumsy  construction, 
wrought  entirely  by  manual  force,  and  of  a style  that 
seems  to  survive  all  the  improvements  of  other  coun- 
tries. 


JUONTARIA. 


245 


In  the  river,  in  front  of  the  Varadouro,  a respectable 
collection  of  merchant  vessels  may  generally  be  seen 
at  anchor.  None  of  the  water  craft,  however,  appear 
more  picturesque  than  does  the  montaria,  a species  of 
flat  boat,  used  much  on  these  waters.  In  the  first  one 
which  I saw,  I counted  ten  Indians  paddling  it  rapidly 
against  the  tide.  They  each  held  a paddle  about  the 
size  and  shape  of  an  oval  spade,  perpendicularly,  in 
both  hands,  and  all  striking  at  once  into  the  water, 
gave  the  boat  great  momentum. 


MONTARIA, 

Various  facts  in  the  history  of  this  portion  of  South 
America,  are  worthy  of  attention.  The  river  and  bay 
of  Maranham  were  discovered  in  A.  D.  1500,  by  Vin- 
cent Yanez  Pinzon,  an  associate  of  Columbus,  during 

V 


246 


DISCOVERY. 


his  voyage  of  discovery,  and  the  commander  of  the 
Nina.  This  individual,  having  obtained  permission  to 
go  in  search  of  new  countries,  fitted  out  four  caravels, 
which  were  the  first  Spanish  vessels  that  crossed  the 
equinoctial  line.  Steering  south-west  from  the  Cape 
de  Verds,  they  made  a point  of  land,  which,  from  the 
relief  it  gave  them  in  the  midst  of  their  almost  despe- 
rate undertaking,  they  named  Cape  Consolation.  It 
has  since  been  known  as  Cape  St.  Augustine.  From 
this  they  followed  the  coast  along  to  the  north-west, 
occasionally  landing,  to  have  communication  with  the 
natives,  until  they  came  to  what  was  afterwards  known 
to  be  Maranham.  The  Spaniards  were  received  hos- 
pitably and  unsuspiciously  by  the  natives,  but  made  a 
most  villainous  return  for  such  kindness,  by  seizing 
thirty  of  these  unoffending  people  and  carrying  them 
away  to  sell  for  slaves.  Pinzon  supposed  that  the  land 
he  had  visited,  was  India  beyond  the  Ganges,  and  that 
he  had  sailed  past  the  great  city  of  Cathay.  He  took 
possession  of  the  coast  for  the  crown  of  Castile;  but, 
before  he  returned  to  Europe,  it  had  been  visited  and 
claimed  by  the  Portuguese,  to  whom  it  belonged,  accord- 
ing to  the  liberal  division  of  all  unknown  countries  made 
by  pope  Alexander  VI.  between  Spain  and  Portugal. 

In  1530,  Maranham  was  made  a captaincy,  and 
conferred  upon  Joam  de  Barros,  the  great  Portuguese 
historian,  author  of  that  classic  work,  As  decculas  de 
India.  The  donatary  had  not  sufficient  means  to  un- 
dertake the  conquest  and  colonization  of  the  country 
alone.  He  accordingly  divided  his  grant  with  Fernam 
Alvares  de  Andrada  and  Aires  da  Cunha,  who  equip- 
ped the  most  extensive  armament  that  had  yet  gone 
to  Portuguese  America.  Ten  ships  were  fitted  out, 


EARLY  HISTORY. 


247 

carrying  nine  hundred  men,  of  whom  one  hundred  and 
thirteen  were  horsemen.  Aires  da  Cunha  went  out  as 
commander,  accompanied  by  two  sons  of  Barros,  but 
the  whole  fleet  suffered  shipwreck  off  the  mouth  of  the 
river.  Only  a few  individuals  survived  the  disaster — 
most  of  those  who  escaped  drowning  being  slain  by  the 
savages.  A few  years  before,  Diogo  de  Ordas,  an 
adventurer,  famous  in  Mexican  history  for  having  as- 
cended the  burning  mountain  of  Popocatapel,  had  met 
with  a similar  disaster  off  Maranham.  Again,  in  1544, 
a third  expedition,  commanded  by  Luiz  de  Mello,  in 
favor  of  whom  Joam  de  Barros  had  waived  his  right 
to  the  captaincy,  was  also  wrecked  upon  the  shoals, 
just  as  that  of  Aires  da  Cunha  had  been  before  it. 

It  was  reserved  for  the  French  to  make  the  first 
permanent  settlement  at  Maranham.  An  expedition 
for  this  purpose  embarked  at  Cancalle,  in  Bretagne, 
early  in  1612.  It  was  commanded  by  Ravardiere,  a 
Hug  uenot,  who  had  associated  with  him,  besides  seve- 
ral of  his  own  faith,  four  Capuchin  missionaries.  This 
difference  of  religion  seems  not  to  have  caused  any 
dissension  among  the  adventurers  ; and  it  was  Claude 
d’ Abbeville,  the  chief  of  the  mission,  who  afterward 
served  as  historian  to  the  enterprise.  On  their  voyage 
out  they  touched  at  Fernando  de  Noronha.  At  length 
they  landed  on  the  island  of  Santa  Anna,  where  the 
Capuchins  erected  a great  cross,  at  the  same  time 
blessing  the  island  and  dedicating  it  to  the  Virgin 
Mary.  Having  proceeded  to  the  present  site  of  Ma- 
ranham, a fort  was  begun,  and  mounted  with  twenty 
great  pieces  of  cannon.  Close  at  hand  a warehouse 
was  erected,  to  contain  the  goods  brought  out  by  the 
French;  and,  at  no  great  distance,  a house  for  the 


248 


THE  FRENCH. 


missionaries.  The  Capuchins  blessed  the  earth,  in 
order  to  purify  it  from  the  pestiferous  paganism  by 
which  it  had  been  so  long  defiled,  and  in  the  height  of 
their  joy  christened  their  tenement  as  the  convent  of 
S.  Francisco.  In  mutual  compliment  to  the  saint  and 
the  royal  family  of  France,  the  town  was  named  St. 
Louis,  and  the  bay  Saint  Mary.  A main  object  of  the 
French  seems  to  have  been  to  encourage  the  enmity 
of  the  natives  against  the  Portuguese.  This  senti- 
ment, however,  needed  no  exasperation,  so  fresh  was 
their  recollection  of  the  many  injuries  they  had  received 
on  various  parts  of  the  coast.  The  commander  of  the 
expedition  had  good  success  in  allying  the  native  chiefs 
to  his  standard;  while  the  Capuchins  persuaded  many 
of  the  natives  to  abandon  making  holes  in  their  ears 
and  lips. 

In  a short  time  Claude  d’Abbeville  returned  to 
Europe  with  one  of  the  associate  commanders,  to  re- 
port progress,  lie  took  with  him  six  unbaptized  Tupi- 
namambas,  that  the  Parisians  might  make  a raree-show 
of  their  christening.  This  part  of  the  plan,  says  Mr. 
Southey,  succeeded  admirably.  Three  of  them,  indeed, 
died  soon  after  their  landing,  but  the  other  three  occa- 
sioned a holiday  wherever  they  appeared,  and  the  king 
and  queen  regent  stood  sponsors  at  their  baptism. 

Unfortunately  for  the  French,  the  government  of 
Brazil  was  just  turning  its  attention  in  the  direction 
of  Maranham.  The  Portuguese  troops  attacked  the 
intruders,  and  after  about  three  years  of  alternate 
fighting  and  parleying,  the  French  were  obliged  to 
withdraw.  In  1630,  the  English  attempted  a settle- 
ment within  its  bounds,  but  were  repelled.  The  Dutch, 
under  Koin,  in  1641,  were  successful.  They  captured 


THE  DUTCH — THE  INDIANS. 


249 


Maranham  and  pillaged  it,  indulging  in  much  cruel 
and  reckless  conduct.  But  their  expedition  was  ill- 
judged.  Calculators,  as  the  Hollanders  were,  they 
seem  never  to  have  considered  how  disproportionate 
their  conquests  were  becoming  to  their  means  of  main- 
taining them.  St.  Louis,  like  St.  Salvador  and  Olin- 
da,  had  been  easily  won ; but  here  also  the  people 
soon  began  to  work  for  their  own  deliverance.  About 
fifty  Portuguese  conspired  together  to  deliver  Maran- 
ham, or  perish  in  the  attempt.  Their  first  efforts  were 
successful.  They  slew  many  of  their  invaders,  and 
but  two  or  three  years  elapsed  before  Maranham  was 
evacuated  by  the  Dutch.  This  occurred  on  the  arrival 
of  strong  succours  from  Portugal. 

Many  of  the  misfortunes  of  this  portion  of  Brazil 
arose  from  the  incompetency  of  its  early  governors, 
several  of  whom  indulged  in  acts  of  great  tyranny  and 
meanness.  From  this  cause  arose  a perpetual  series 
of  factious  appeals  and  seditions,  which  exerted  a dis- 
astrous influence  on  the  people  and  the  country.  If 
the  Portuguese  governors  and  colonists  were  agreed 
in  any  one  thing,  it  was  in  enslaving  and  oppressing 
the  poor  Indians,  who  found  no  escape  from  their  cruel- 
ties. Yet  here  it  was  that  the  Jesuits  faithfully  resisted 
such  oppression ; and  Vieyra,  one  of  the  most  power- 
ful men  known  in  the  history  of  that  order,  exerted  his 
splendid  talents  to  preserve  the  freedom,  and  promote 
the  civilization,  of  the  unfortunate  aboriginals.  After 
a temporary  expulsion  of  the  Jesuits,  the  slave-trade 
was  re-opened,  and  continued  with  tenfold  horrors, 
until,  in  1673,  the  government  of  Portugal,  convinced 
that  no  regulations  could  prevent  the  abuses  and  cruel- 
ties of  this  nefarious  traffic,  determined  to  abolish  the 
Vol.  II— 32 


250 


GOMEZ  FREIRE. 


slavery  of  the  Indians  altogether.  This  decree  pro- 
duced an  insurrection  at  St.  Luiz,  headed  by  one 
Beckman,  and  supported  by  some  priests,  one  of  whom 
fomented  the  rebellion  in  a public  sermon,  and  another 
performed  a Te  Deum  in  the  cathedral  in  honor  of 
its  success.  The  clergy  generally  were  no  credit  to 
their  profession,  many  of  them  having  been  degraded 
in  Europe;  but  now,  that  their  jealousy  had  been  pro- 
voked by  a restoration  of  the  Jesuits  to  their  former 
position,  their  rage  knew  no  bounds.  When  Beck- 
man could  find  no  one  else  that  had  the  daring  to  go 
to  Para,  and  inflame  rebellion  there,  a friar  unfrocked 
himself  and  volunteered  on  the  infamous  mission. 

Gomez  Freire,  a man  of  rare  talents,  was  sent  out 
from  Lisbon  to  recover  Maranham.  His  expedition 
was  successful.  Beckman  escaped,  but  when  a reward 
was  offered  for  his  capture,  he  was  betrayed  by  one  of 
his  relatives,  and  delivered  up  to  suffer  for  his  treason. 
He  was  imprisoned,  and  finally  executed.  So  tender 
were  the  feelings  of  Gomez  Freire,  that  he  was  almost 
incapable  of  signing  the  warrant  for  his  execution.  A 
more  painful  trial  awaited  him  when  the  wife  of  Beck- 
man, accompanied  by  two  unmarried  daughters,  came 
in  mourning  and  with  disheveled  hair,  to  solicit  his 
clemency.  He  met  them  in  the  ante-room,  and  they 
fell  to  embrace  his  feet.  When  the  wife  could  repress 
her  sorrow  sufficiently  to  make  utterance  audible,  she 
said  she  had  not  come  to  entreat  for  her  husband’s 
life,  because  she  knew  that  if  it  had  been  in  the  go- 
vernor’s power  to  spare  it  he  would  have  done  so  with- 
out entreaties,  but  she  came  to  present  two  orphans 
to  his  compassion.  The  unhappy  girls  themselves 
seconded  this  wretched  petition,  praying  that  he,  who, 


PROGRESS  OF  SOCIETY. 


251 


in  his  public  capacity  made  them  orphans,  would,  as 
a man  and  a Christian,  so  far  supply  the  place  of  their 
father  as  to  grant  them  an  asylum  in  his  family,  though 
it  were  in  the  capacity  of  slaves.  The  occasion  was 
singularly  tragic.  Freire  promised  to  do  for  them  the 
best  he  could.  Accordingly,  when  Beckman’s  property, 
being  confiscated,  was  put  up  for  sale,  he,  at  his  own 
private  expense,  purchased  the  whole  and  restored  it 
immediately  to  the  daughters.  Beckman  suffered  with 
meekness  and  penitence,  confessing  that  he  had  at- 
tempted to  shoot  the  governor  when  he  landed.  The 
friar,  who  had  provoked  rebellion  from  the  pulpit,  was 
simply  incarcerated  in  his  convent. 

In  1685,  seventy  years  after  the  expulsion  of  the 
French,  St.  Luiz  contained  about  one  thousand  Por- 
tuguese. Many  of  these  belonged  to  the  nobility,  a 
rank  to  which  all  were  entitled  who  had  held  a com- 
mission in  the  ordenan^a,  or  local  militia,  at  any  time, 
although  it  had  only  been  for  ninety  days.  This  nobi- 
lity not  only  conferred  caste,  but  also  peculiar  exemp- 
tions and  privileges,  on  its  possessor.  The  foolish  pride, 
which  such  distinctions  were  calculated  to  foster,  was 
increased  by  an  act  of  John  IV.,  granting  to  Maran- 
ham  and  Para  privileges  such  as  were  enjoyed  by 
Oporto  and  Lisbon,  whose  inhabitants  occupied  a foot- 
ing almost  equivalent  to  that  of  knights  errant.  The 
Maranhenses,  however,  might  not  ride  upon  mules — 
to  breed  these  animals  they  considered  an  injury  to 
the  state. 

At  the  end  of  another  century,  in  1785,  Maranham 
had  grown  to  be  a city  of  twelve  thousand  inhabitants. 
The  cultivation  of  rice  and  cotton  had  become  exten- 
sive and  profitable,  although  when  first  introduced  it 


252 


REVOLUTION  OF  INDEPENDENCE. 


was  regarded  as  a foolish  and  troublesome  innovation. 
From  this  time  forward,  Maranham  enjoyed  a quiet 
and  permanent  prosperity  during  the  period  that  Bra- 
zil remained  a colony  of  Portugal.  Nor  was  this  pro- 
vince involved  in  any  important  contest  during  the 
war  of  independence. 

In  1823,  when  the  Portuguese  troops,  under  Gene- 
ral Madeira,  evacuated  Bahia,  Lord  Cochrane,  com- 
manding the  line  of  battle  ship  Pedro  I.,  after  having 
pursued  the  Portuguese  fleet  across  the  line,  bore 
away  for  Maranham,  although  he  had  no  specific 
orders  so  to  do.  On  entering  the  harbor  he  perceived 
that  several  transports,  with  Portuguese  troops,  had 
arrived  before  him.  He  accordingly  made  immediate 
preparation  for  a blockade.  This,  however,  became 
unnecessary,  as  the  provisional  junta,  which  then  ad- 
ministered the  government,  soon  came  oft’  to  deliver 
up  the  town,  and  to  testify  their  adhesion  to  the  cause 
of  independence.  The  admiral  immediately  took  pos- 
session of  the  Portuguese  vessels  in  the  harbor,  and 
gave  orders  for  the  confiscation  of  all  property  belong- 
ing to  Portuguese  resident  in  Portugal.  Some  of  the 
prize  vessels,  as  well  as  quantities  of  the  merchandize 
seized,  were  redeemed  on  account  of  the  proprietors, 
and  the  amounts  fixed  for  such  an  object  paid  over  to 
Lord  Cochrane.  The  remainder  he  dispatched  to 
Rio  de  Janeiro,  whither  he  followed  them,  after  taking 
measures  for  the  pacification  of  the  country.  His 
cruise  had  been  completely  successful,  leaving,  as  he 
did,  the  whole  coast  clear  of  the  enemies  of  Brazil.  As 
a testimony  of  the  value  set  upon  this  service,  the 
Emperor  conferred  upon  him  the  rank  and  title  of 
Marquis  of  Maranham. 


LORD  COCHRANE. 


253 


Whether  his  second  visit  to  this  port  was  as  credit- 
able to  him  as  the  first,  the  reader  may  judge.  It 
occurred  the  next  year,  1824,  after  the  subjection  of 
Pernambuco,  of  which  an  account  has  been  given. 
The  province  of  Maranham  was  found  in  a state  of 
anarchy.  The  leaders  of  the  army  organized  in  favor 
of  the  independence,  had  risen  against  the  authority  of 
the  president,  Miguel  Bruce,  a Brazilian,  originally  of 
Scotch  extraction,  and  hostilities  were  actually  in  ope- 
ration at  the  time  when  Lord  Cochrane  entered  the 
port,  each  of  the  contending  parties  ostensibly  declar- 
ing for  Don  Pedro,  and  each  accusing  the  other  of 
wishing  to  form  a republic.  As  Bruce,  who,  at  the 
time  held  the  city,  placed  his  chief  confidence  in  peo- 
ple of  color,  to  many  of  whom  he  had  given  commis- 
sions, the  more  respectable  class  of  inhabitants  hailed 
the  arrival  of  Lord  Cochrane  with  great  joy. 

After  remaining  a few  weeks  in  port,  and  ascertain- 
ing the  actual  state  of  parties,  his  lordship  sent  a 
cutter,  with  thirty  men,  up  the  river  Itapicuru,  to  the 
scene  of  hostilities,  with  an  order  for  both  parties  to 
lay  down  their  arms.  This  mandate  the  assailing 
party  immediately  complied  with,  and  dispersed.  The 
troops  of  the  president  also  embarked  in  five  smacks, 
and  were  under  way  to  Maranham,  when  they  were 
met  by  Lord  Cochrane,  who  had  followed  the  cutter  in 
the  Atlantic  schooner,  and  after  being  brought  under 
the  guns  of  the  Piranga  and  the  Pedro  Primeiro,  they 
were  compelled  to  disembark  on  a small  island,  where 
they  were  retained  as  prisoners.  Bruce  himself  was 
subsequently  dispossessed  of  his  powers,  and  sent  off 
by  an  early  conveyance  to  Rio  de  Janeiro. 

Having  thus  re-established  order  throughout  the 
W 


254 


lord  cochrane’s  claims. 


province,  and  appointed  to  the  presidency  Manoel 
Telles  da  Silva  Lobo,  an  individual  entirely  in  his  own 
interests,  Lord  Cochrane  proceeded  to  carry  into  exe- 
cution a plan  which  he  seems  to  have  formed  long 
before.  Notwithstanding  the  services  which  he  had 
already  rendered  to  Brazil,  and  the  acknowledgment 
of  them  in  the  title  of  Marquis  of  Maranham,  confer- 
red upon  him  by  the  Emperor,  he  had  hitherto  received 
neither  payment  for  his  services  nor  reimbursement 
for  his  expenses.  He  therefore  looked  upon  the  ad- 
mission of  his  claims  on  the  imperial  government  as 
hopeless,  and  determined  to  seize  the  present  oppor- 
tunity of  indemnifying  himself  whilst  it  was  yet  in  his 
power.  In  doing  this  he  had  nothing  to  apprehend 
from  the  president.  This  individual,  the  humble  ex- 
secretary to  the  provincial  government,  owed  his  ele- 
vation solely  to  the  favor  of  his  lordship ; the  besieging 
army  had  dispersed,  and  the  troops  of  Bruce  were 
prisoners.  Under  the  plea,  therefore,  that  the  ord- 
nance, military  stores,  ammunition,  and  all  the  various 
fixtures  formerly  appertaining  to  the  Portuguese  go- 
vernment, were  in  reality  the  lawful  prize  of  their 
captors,  he  proceeded  to  make  an  estimate  of  their 
value,  which  was  found  to  amount  to  nearly  four  hun- 
dred contos  of  reis.  This  amount,  however,  and  also 
the  sixty  contos  formerly  furnished  to  the  army  of 
Piauhy,  his  lordship,  in  consideration  of  the  impove- 
rished state  of  the  province,  agreed  to  commute  for 
about  the  fourth  part,  or  a hundred  and  six  contos, 
provided  the  latter  sum  were  paid  immediately.  A 
memorial  to  this  effect  was  then  sent  into  the  trea- 
sury; but  as  the  claim  was  altogether  novel,  and 
the  members  of  the  board  had  neither  a sufficient 


BANISHMENT  OF  ABRANCHES. 


255 


amount  in  their  coffers,  nor  any  orders  from  the  go- 
vernment of  Rio,  they  demurred  respecting  its  pay- 
ment. His  lordship,  in  consequence,  appeared  in  per- 
son at  a meeting  held  by  this  body,  and  after  adducing 
his  estimates,  proceeded  to  urge  the  claims  of  the 
squadron  with  great  firmness.  As  was  to  be  expected, 
a unanimous  vote  was  finally  passed,  that  as  the  trea- 
sury was  nearly  empty,  the  custom-house  should  fur- 
nish the  stipulated  sum,  and  an  order  was  given  on 
the  latter  establishment  for  the  amount. 

This  order  was  to  be  discharged  by  successive  in- 
stalments. The  conduct  of  Lord  Cochrane  was,  in  the 
meantime,  bitterly  arraigned  by  an  individual  named 
Abranches,  the  editor  of  a periodical  entitled  the 
“Censor.”  This  person,  a Portuguese  by  birth,  had 
the  boldness  to  stigmatize  the  admiral,  as  at  once  a 
pirate  and  a robber.  For  several  weeks  Lord  Coch- 
rane, through  the  medium  of  another  periodical,  pub- 
licly responded  to  the  accusations  brought  against  him 
in  the  “Censor;”  but  finding  that  his  exculpations 
appeared  only  to  aggravate  the  violence  of  his  oppo- 
nent, he  determined  on  the  adoption  of  more  decisive 
measures.  The  president  was  easily  induced  to  issue 
an  order  for  the  instantaneous  banishment  of  Abran- 
ches, on  the  alleged  ground  of  his  having  issued  publi- 
cations at  once  inimical  to  the  public  peace,  and  per- 
sonally offensive  to  the  Marquis  of  Maranham ; a 
sentence  which  was  immediately  carried  into  execution, 
and  which  subsequently  gave  rise  to  the  keenest  mor- 
tification on  the  part  of  the  ministry  in  Rio  de  Janeiro. 

The  money,  meanwhile,  came  round  but  slowly,  and 
the  designs  of  his  lordship  were  again  subjected  to  a 
far  more  serious  obstacle,  in  the  arrival  of  another 


256 


BARROS. 


president  from  Rio  de  Janeiro.  The  conduct  of  Bruce 
had  for  a long  time  been  unsatisfactory  to  the  court, 
and  the  consequence  was,  that  before  the  news  of  his 
dismissal  had  arrived  there,  an  individual  of  the  name 
of  Pedro  Joze  da  Costa  Barros,  a partisan  of  the  Por- 
tuguese faction,  had  been  appointed  to  supersede  him 
in  the  presidency.  The  newly  appointed  functionary 
arrived  at  his  destination  early  in  February,  when  he 
was  received  with  all  due  honors  by  the  actual  presi- 
dent, as  well  as  by  Lord  Cochrane  and  his  suite,  and 
requested  to  take  charge  of  the  government  on  the  fol- 
lowing day.  To  their  solicitations  he  very  naturally 
replied,  that  finding  the  province  in  a state  of  peace, 
he  was  anxious  to  ascertain  the  particulars  of  the  late 
convulsions,  and  the  actual  state  of  political  parties, 
before  he  entered  upon  his  official  duties.  No  sooner, 
however,  had  he  been  made  aware  of  the  late  proceed- 
ings of  Lord  Cochrane,  than  he  intimated  to  his  lord- 
ship  his  intention  to  assume  office  in  the  course  of  a 
few  days.  To  this  sudden  resolution  his  lordship  as 
suddenly  refused  to  accede.  It  had  become  evident 
that  Barros  was  an  individual  of  a much  less  comply- 
ing disposition  than  Lobo,  the  actual  president ; and 
as  the  payment  of  the  stipulated  one  hundred  and  six 
contos  was  still  incomplete,  his  lordship  took  occasion 
to  postpone  the  fulfillment  of  Barros’  intention,  under 
the  plea  that  he  had  already  written  to  Rio  de  Janeiro 
regarding  political  affairs,  and  that  as  he  expected  an 
answer  within  ten  days,  he  deemed  it  most  advisable 
to  retain  Lobo  in  office  until  the  expiration  of  that 
time.  Incensed  at  this  unexpected  opposition,  Barros 
immediately  threw  off  the  mask,  and  telling  lord 
Cochrane  that  he  fully  comprehended  the  motives  of 


COCHRANE  SAILS  FOR  ENGLAND.  257 

this  treatment,  threatened  to  make  his  lordship  respon- 
sible for  it  to  the  Emperor. 

The  revenue  of  the  custom-house,  in  the  meantime, 
came  forward  more  slowly  than  ever.  The  appointed 
ten  days  passed  over,  and  after  them  twenty  more,  but 
neither  had  the  amount  been  completed,  nor  had  the 
expected  communications  arrived  from  Rio  de  Janeiro. 
Barros  had,  however,  in  connection  with  a number  of 
partisans,  determined  on  a forcible  attempt  to  invest 
himself  with  the  presidency,  to  be  executed  on  the  10th 
of  March,  1825.  Of  this  Lord  Cochrane  received  in- 
telligence in  an  anonymous  communication,  and  after 
disembarking  a force  from  his  line-of-battle  ship,  he 
proceeded  to  arrest  Barros  as  a conspirator,  and  on  the 
12th  sent  him  off  a prisoner  in  the  brig  of  war  Cacique, 
to  Para,  there  to  await  the  determination  of  the  Em- 
peror. 

Having  at  length  received  the  stipulated  sum  from 
the  custom-house,  as  well  as  fifteen  contos  in  ransom 
for  a slave  vessel  claimed  as  a prize  on  the  first  sur- 
render of  Maranham,  and  still  retained  there,  his  Lord- 
ship  finally  sailed  for  England  in  the  Piranga,  on  the 
20th  of  May.  He  had  already  placed  Commodore 
Jewett  in  the  Pedro  Primeiro,  and  dispatched  that 
vessel  to  Bahia,  whither  he  gave  it  out  to  be  his  inten- 
tion to  follow  her.  He,  nevertheless,  proceeded  directly 
to  Portsmouth,  where  he  arrived  after  a passage  of 
thirty-seven  days.  His  engagement  had  been  to  serve 
Brazil  until  the  recognition  of  her  independence  by 
Portugal,  and  till  this  event  took  place,  he  kept  his  flag 
flying  on  board  the  Piranga,  though  there  was  but 
little  probability  that  his  services  would  ever  again  be 

Voi,.  11—33  w 2 


258 


IMPROVEMENT  OF  THE  PROVINCE. 


desired  by  Brazil,  after  the  course  he  had  taken  in 
Maranham. 

Since  the  establishment  of  the  imperial  government 
Maranham  has  continued  to  flourish;  the  city  has  in- 
creased, and  the  province  gradually  improved,  without 
any  great  interruption  except  the  insurrection  of  1839, 
of  which  an  account  has  been  given. 


INLAND  PASSAGE  TO  PARA 


259 


CHAPTER  XV. 

Inland  Passage  to  Pard. — Voyage  by  Sea. — Entrance  of  the  Amazon. — 
Pororoca. — Ascent  of  the  River. — Arrival  at  Para. — Bethel  Service. — 
Location  and  Appearance  of  the  City. — Style  of  Buildings. — Public 
Walk. — Botanical  Garden. — The  Suburbs. — The  People. — Indians. — 
Soldiers. — River  Craft. — Bathing. — Productions  of  the  Province. — A 
Home. — The  Palace. — License  of  Residence. — Pinheiros. — Una. — 
Maguary. — An  Amazonian  Forest. — Geological  Formation. — Rice 
Mills. 

The  voyage  from  Maranham  to  Para  used  in  former 
years,  according  to  Mr.  Southey,  to  be  performed  by 
canoes  passing  through  the  continent,  and  coasting 
around  not  less  than  thirty-two  bays,  many  of  them  so 
large  that  sight  cannot  span  them.  These  bays  are 
connected  by  a labyrinth  of  streams  and  waters,  so 
that  the  voyage  may  be  greatly  shortened  by  ascend- 
ing one  river  with  the  flow,  crossing  to  another,  and 
descending  with  the  ebb.  The  distance  thus  circuit- 
ously measured  is  about  three  hundred  leagues,  and 
may  be  traversed  in  thirty  days.  I met  with  one  indi- 
vidual who  had,  in  early  life,  passed  through  this  inland 
passage  in  a much  more  direct  course,  his  voyage  oc- 
cupying only  fourteen  days.  It  was  at  that  golden  era 
when  Indian  labor  was  plenty,  and  could  be  secured 
at  four  cents  per  day.  Some  years  after,  the  same 
individual  wished  to  perform  the  same  voyage,  but  was 
forced  to  abandon  the  idea,  from  the  difficulty  of  find- 
ing canoe-men  to  serve  him  even  at  fifty  cents  per  day. 
He  entertained  the  most  delightful  recollections  of  the 
rout,  exhibiting  as  it  did  the  glories  of  nature  in  all 


260 


VOYAGE  BY  SEA. 


their  pristine  loveliness.  Nothing  interrupted  the  se- 
curity of  the  traveler,  and  nothing  disturbed  the  silence 
of  those  sylvan  retreats,  save  the  chattering  of  mon- 
keys, or  the  caroling  of  birds.  The  silver  expanse  of 
waters,  and  the  magnificent  foliage  of  tropical  forests, 
taller  than  the  world  elsewhere  contains,  and  so  dense 
as  almost  to  exclude  the  light  of  the  sun,  combined  to 
impress  the  mind  with  inexpressible  grandeur. 

The  canoes  were  drawn  up  on  shore  every  night 
when  refreshment  and  repose  were  desired,  and  the 
skillful  Indians,  in  a few  moments,  could  secure  suffi- 
cient game  for  the  subsistence  of  the  party.  Thus  the 
voyage  was  prosecuted  with  little  fatigue,  and  with 
every  diversion. 

The  distance  to  Para  by  sea  is  about  four  hundred 
miles,  and  is  traversed  by  the  steam  packets  in  from 
two  to  three  days.  We  passed  out  of  the  harbor  of 
Maranham  in  the  afternoon,  and  at  evening  were  off 
Itacolumi.  Our  course  all  the  next  day  lay  near  the 
shore,  which  is  uniformly  low  and  much  sinuated.  On 
the  second  morning  we  were  on  the  look-out  for  the 
entrance  of  the  great  Amazon,  the  southern  mouth  of 
which  is  usually  denominated  the  Para  river.  The 
navigation  is  by  no  means  safe  here,  for  the  reason 
that  no  prominent  landmarks  exist  to  certify  the  mari- 
ner of  his  position.  In  the  night,  or  in  thick  weather, 
it  is  almost  impossible  to  find  Selinas,  the  only  pilot 
station  on  the  coast,  and  the  pilots  never  cruise  for 
vessels  at  any  considerable  distance  out.  Moreover, 
the  entrance  of  the  river  lies  between  two  dangerous 
shoals,  denominated  Tigoca  and  Braganza,  but  not 
unlike  Scylla  and  Charybdis.  Hence,  vessels  are  fre- 
quently wrecked,  and  whole  crews  sometimes  perish  in 


ENTRANCE  OF  THE  AMAZON. 


261 


seeking  to  enter  the  river,  although  in  descending  their 
course  is  obvious  and  safe.  We  entered  this  mouth 
of  the  Amazon  at  a fortunate  juncture.  The  weather 
was  so  clear  that  we  distinctly  saw  the  breakers  on 
both  Tigoca  and  Braganza  banks,  and  the  tide  had 
just  commenced  flowing  upward.  For  nearly  an  hour 
we  could  observe  just  ahead,  the  conflict  of  the  ascend- 
ing and  descending  waters.  Finally,  the  mighty  force 
of  the  ocean  predominated,  and  the  current  of  the  river 
seemed  to  recoil  before  it. 

This  phenomenon  is  called,  from  its  aboriginal  name, 
pororoca,  and  gives  character  to  the  navigation  of  the 
Amazon  for  hundreds  of  miles.  No  sailing  craft  can 
descend  the  river  while  the  tide  is  running  up.  Hence 
both  in  ascending  and  descending,  distances  are  mea- 
sured by  tides.  For  instance,  Para  is  three  tides  from 
the  ocean,  and  a vessel  entering  with  the  flood  must 
lie  at  anchor  during  two  ebb  tides  before  she  can  reach 
the  city.  Canoes  and  small  vessels  are  sometimes 
endangered  in  the  commotion  caused  by  the  pororoca, 
and  hence  they  generally,  in  anticipation,  lay-to  in  cer- 
tain places  called  esperas  or  resting-places,  where  the 
water  is  known  to  be  but  little  agitated.  Most  of  the 
vessels  used  in  the  commerce  of  the  upper  Amazon 
are  constructed  with  reference  to  this  peculiarity  of  the 
navigation,  being  designed  for  floating  on  the  current 
rather  than  for  sailing  before  the  wind,  although  their 
sails  may  often  be  made  serviceable. 

The  ebb  and  flow  of  the  tides  in  the  Amazon  are 
observed  with  regularity  six  hundred  miles  above  the 
mouth,  at  the  confluence  of  the  river  Madeira.  The 
pororoca  is  much  more  violent  on  the  northern  side  of 
the  island  Marajo',  where  the  mouth  is  wider  and  the 


262 


POROROCA. 


current  more  shallow.  It  was  well  described  by  Con- 
damine  a hundred  years  ago,  in  these  terms: 

“ During  three  days  before  the  new  and  full  moons, 
the  period  of  the  highest  tides,  the  sea,  instead  of  oc- 
cupying six  hours  to  reach  its  flood,  swells  to  its  highest 
limit  in  one  or  two  minutes.  It  might  be  inferred  that 
such  a phenomenon  could  not  take  place  in  a very 
tranquil  manner.  The  noise  of  this  terrible  flood  is 
heard  five  or  six  miles,  and  increases  as  it  approaches. 
Presently  you  see  a liquid  promontory  twelve  or  fifteen 
feet  high,  followed  by  another,  and  another,  and  some- 
times by  a fourth.  These  watery  mountains  spread 
across  the  whole  channel,  and  advance  with  a pro- 
digious rapidity,  rending  and  crushing  every  thing  in 
their  w’ay.  Immense  trees  are  instantly  uprooted  by 
it,  and  sometimes  whole  tracts  of  land  are  swept 
away.” 

As  we  passed  up  the  great  river,  the  color  of  the 
water  changed  from  the  dark  hue  of  the  ocean  we  had 
left  to  a light  green,  and  afterwards,  by  degrees,  to  a 
muddy  yellow.  We  were  barely  in  sight  of  the  south- 
eastern bank  of  the  river  ; and  after  we  had  ascended 
over  forty  miles,  the  island  of  Marajo  began  to  be 
visible  on  the  opposite  side.  In  the  course  of  the  day 
we  approached  nearer  the  continent,  and  the  shore  was 
seen  to  be  uniformly  level,  and  densely  covered  with 
mangrove  thickets.  The  only  village  distinctly  seen 
was  Collares,  which  our  commander,  Captain  Hayden, 
had  captured  during  the  revolution  some  years  pre- 
vious. The  whole  day  we  were  borne  along  by  the 
combined  force  of  steam  and  wind,  but  the  tide  was 
part  of  the  time  against  11s.  At  evening  a clear,  full 
moon,  shed  down  from  an  unclouded  sky  new  splendor 


BETHEL  SERVICE. 


263 


upon  a scene  already  sublime.  A most  fragrant  breeze 
from  tbe  land  became  more  and  more  perceptible  as 
the  river  narrowed.  Two  boats  were  the  only  craft 
we  saw  during  the  whole  ascent.  Finally,  we  came 
alongside  the  Forte  da  Barra,  two  miles  distant  from 
the  city  of  Belem,  and  were  hailed  as  we  passed. 
The  lights  of  the  town,  and  of  vessels  in  front  of  it, 
then  became  visible.  We  described  a semicircle 
around  the  harbor,  passing  between  two  vessels  of 
var,  and  came  to  an  anchor  at  ten  o’clock. 

The  towers  of  the  cathedral,  of  the  palace,  and  of 
•everal  churches,  were  distinctly  visible  in  the  moon- 
ight.  Our  vessel  was  soon  boarded  by  numerous 
visitors,  among  whom  were  two  naval  officers  of  Eng- 
lish birth,  one  in  an  official  capacity,  the  other  not, 
but  both  miserably  intoxicated.  Visitors  at  length 
withdrew,  and  the  passengers  retired  to  rest. 

I found  at  Para  several  North  Americans  engaged 
in  commercial  and  mechanical  pursuits,  and  constitu- 
ting a larger  community  of  citizens  of  the  United  States 
than  is  found  elsewhere  in  Brazil,  save  at  Rio  de 
Janeiro. 

The  second  day  after  our  arrival  was  the  Sabbath, 
and  through  the  courtesy  of  Captain  H.  it  was  ar- 
ranged that  I should  hold  a Bethel  service  on  board  the 
Maranhense  steamer.  Some  American  seamen  were 
present,  and  several  persons  went  off  from  the  shore. 
These,  together  with  the  ship’s  company,  formed  an 
audience  of  about  thirty,  to  whom  I announced  the 
tidings  of  the  kingdom  of  God.  Making  allowance  for 
the  circumstance  of  a public  packet  just  clear  of  her 
passengers,  and  the  same  night  going  to  sea  with  an- 
other supply,  the  occasion  was  very  favorable  for  divine 


264 


APPEARANCE  OF  THE  CITY. 


service,  and  I felt  truly  grateful  for  the  opportunity, 
probably  the  first  ever  enjoyed  by  any  Protestant  min- 
ister, of  attempting  to  preach  Jesus  and  the  resurrec- 
tion, upon  the  wide  waters  of  the  Amazon.  I held 
similar  services  at  Para  on  the  seven  succeeding  Sab- 
baths, once  on  board  an  American  vessel  in  port,  and 
at  other  times  in  the  private  house  of  a friend. 

The  location  of  Para  or  the  city  of  Belem,  is  in 
1°  21'  S.  latitude,  and  48°  28'  W.  longitude.  Its  site 
occupies  an  elevated  point  of  land,  on  the  south-eastern 
bank  of  the  Para  river,  the  most  important  mouth  of 
the  Amazon.  This  city  is  eighty  miles  from  the  ocean, 
and  may  be  seen  from  a long  distance  down  the  river. 
It  has  a very  imposing  appearance  when  approached 
from  that  direction.  Its  anchorage  is  very  good,  formed 
by  an  abrupt  curve  in  the  stream,  and  admits  vessels 
of  a large  draft.  The  great  island  of  Marajd  forms 
the  opposite  bank,  twenty  miles  distant,  but  is  wholly 
obscured  from  sight  by  intervening  and  smaller  islands. 

The  general  appearance  of  Para  corresponds  to  that 
of  most  Brazilian  towns,  presenting  an  array  of  whiten- 
ed walls  and  red-tiled  roofs.  The  plan  on  which  it  is 
laid  out  is  not  deficient  in  either  regularity  or  taste. 
Its  public  squares  are  three  in  number — that  of  the 
Palace,  of  the  Quartel,  and  of  the  Largo  da  Polvora. 
Besides  these,  there  arc  several  smaller  squares  in 
front  of  the  cathedral,  and  of  several  of  the  convents. 
The  streets  are  neither  wide  nor  well  paved.  The 
proportion  of  large  well-built  houses  is  respectable, 
although  the  back  streets  are  mostly  filled  with  those 
that  are  diminutive  in  size,  and  indifferent  in  con- 
struction. 

The  style  of  dwelling-houses  is  peculiar,  but  well 


STYLE  OF  BUILDINGS. 


265 


adapted  to  the  climate.  A wide  veranda  is  an  essen- 
tial portion  of  every  habitation.  It  sometimes  extends 
quite  around  the  outside  of  the  building ; while  a 
similar  construction  prevails  on  at  least  three  sides  of 
a spacious  area  within.  A part  of  the  inner  veranda, 
or  at  least  a room  connected  with  it,  serves  as  the 
dining  room,  and  is  almost  invariably  airy  and  pleasant. 
The  front  rooms  only  are  ceiled,  save  in  the  highest 
and  most  expensive  edifices.  Latticed  windows  are 
more  common  than  glass,  but  some  houses  are  fur- 
nished with  both,  although  preference  is  always  given 
to  the  former  in  the  dry  season.  Instead  of  small, 
dark,  and  unventilated  alcoves,  and  sweltering  beds  for 
sleeping,  they  have  suspension  hooks  arranged  for 
swinging  hammocks  across  the  corners  of  all  the  large 
rooms,  and  transversely  along  the  entire  sweep  of  the 
verandas.  Some  dwellings  contain  fixtures  of  this 
sort  for  swinging  up  fifty  or  sixty  persons  every  night 
with  the  least  possible  inconvenience. 

The  effects  of  the  revolution  of  1835  are  still  very 
apparent  in  Para.  Almost  every  street  shows  more  or 
less  houses  battered  with  bullets  or  cannon  shot.  Some 
were  but  slightly  defaced,  others  were  nearly  destroyed. 
Of  the  latter,  some  have  been  repaired,  others  aban- 
doned. The  S.  Antonio  convent  was  much  exposed 
to  the  cannonading,  and  bears  many  marks  of  shot  in 
its  walls.  One  of  the  missiles  was  so  unlucky  as  to 
destroy  an  image  perched  in  a lofty  niche  on  the  front 
of  the  convent.  The  niche  has  since  been  closed  up. 

While  the  city  of  Para  fronts  upon  the  river,  its  rear 
is  skirted  by  the  finest  shaded  walk  I saw  in  any  of  the 
Brazilian  towns.  The  Estrada  das  Mangabeiras  is  a 
highway  extending  from  near  the  marine  arsenal  on 

Vol.  II.— 34  X 


266 


PUBLIC  WALKS — GARDENS. 


the  river  side,  to  the  Largo  da  Polvora  on  the  eastern 
extremity  of  the  city.  It  is  intersected  by  avenues 
leading  from  the  Palace  Square  and  the  Largo  do 
Quartel.  Its  name  is  derived  from  the  mangabcira 
trees,  with  which  it  is  densely  shaded  on  either  side. 
The  bark  of  these  shade  trees  is  of  a light  grayish 
color,  regularly  striped  with  green, — their  product  is  a 
coarse  cotton  that  may  be  used  for  several  purposes, — 
their  appearance  is  at  once  neat  and  majestic.  Part 
of  them  were  planted  many  years  ago,  and  the  remain- 
der by  the  late  president  Andrea.  In  the  immediate 
vicinity  of  this  road  is  the  old  convent,  now  hospital 
of  S.  Joze,  and  near  by  it  the  recolhimento  of  orphan 
girls.  In  the  grounds  of  the  former  establishment  a 
botanical  garden  was  commenced  in  1797,  for  the  cul- 
tivation of  indigenous  and  foreign  plants  and  trees. 
The  location  was  appropriate,  the  ground  was  fertile, 
and  with  proper  cultivation  this  spot  might  have  been 
made  a perfect  miniature  of  the  tropical  world.  The 
spices  and  fruits  of  the  East  Indies  would  have  flou- 
rished here,  and,  mingled  with  the  choice  plants  of  the 
American  torrid  zone,  would  have  formed  a collection 
unrivaled  for  richness  and  variety. 

But  what  was  only  commenced,  has  been  long  since 
abandoned,  to  the  sorrow  of  every  one  who  can  appre- 
ciate the  advantages  nature  may  derive  from  art.  A 
few  private  gardens  in  the  vicinity  well  deserve  a visit, 
but  they  are  by  no  means  what  they  should  be  in  such 
a place.  This  neglect  of  improvement,  however,  is  not 
the  worst  consequence  that  has  followed  the  revolutions 
and  disorders  that  for  many  years  prevailed  at  inter- 
vals in  this  ill-fated  town.  Many  are  the  finely  located 
streets  where  scarcely  a solitary  foot  path  penetrates 


THE  SUBURBS. 


267 


the  thick  and  ever-growing  bushes  that  overspread 
them ; while  throughout  the  suburbs  one  is  momentarily 
passing  forsaken  tenements,  and  the  walls  of  houses, 
many  of  them  of  a superior  order,  no  longer  occupied. 
Beyond  the  actual  precincts  of  the  city,  one  may  in- 
stantly bury  himself  in  a dense  forest,  and  become  shut 
out  from  every  indication  of  the  near  residence  of  man. 

The  coolness  of  these  silent  shades  is  always  invi- 
ting, but  the  stranger  must  beware  lest  he  loses  his 
way  and  never  return.  Many  stories  are  told  of  per- 
sons who  became  bewildered  in  the  mazes  of  these 
thickets,  and  though  but  a short  distance  off,  were 
utterly  unable  to  find  their  way  back  to  town.  Seve- 
ral are  believed  to  have  perished  in  this  manner. 

The  traveler,  on  entering  Para,  is  struck  with  the 
peculiar  appearance  of  the  people.  The  regularly  de- 
scended Portuguese  and  Africans  do  not,  indeed,  differ 
from  their  brethren  in  other  parts,  but  they  are  com- 
paratively few  here,  while  the  Indian  race  predominates. 
The  aboriginals  of  Brazil  may  here  be  seen  both  in 
pure  blood,  and  in  every  possible  degree  of  intermix- 
ture with  both  blacks  and  whites.  They  occupy  every 
station  in  society,  and  may  be  seen  as  the  merchant, 
the  tradesman,  the  sailor,  the  soldier,  the  priest,  and 
the  slave.  In  the  last  named  condition  they  excited 
most  my  attention  and  sympathy.  The  thought  of 
slavery  is  always  revolting  to  an  ingenuous  mind, 
whether  it  be  considered  as  forced  upon  the  black,  the 
white,  or  the  red  man.  But  there  has  been  a fatality 
connected  with  the  enslavement  of  the  Indians,  extend- 
ing both  to  their  captors  and  to  themselves,  which 
invests  their  servitude  with  peculiar  horrors. 

Nearly  all  the  revolutions  that  have  occurred  at 


268 


SOLDIERS. 


Para  are  directly  or  indirectly  traceable  to  the  spirit 
of  revenge  with  which  the  bloody  expeditions  of  the 
early  slave-hunters  are  associated  in  the  minds  of  the 
natives  and  mixed  bloods  throughout  the  country. 

An  effect  of  those  oft-recurring  revolutions  is  seen  in 
the  military  government  of  the  city.  The  number  of 
soldiers  quartered  in  it  during  my  residence  there  was 
not  great,  but  fresh  recruits  were  constantly  under 
drill.  Now,  that  the  Indians  can  no  longer  be  directly 
enslaved,  they  are  daily  pressed  for  the  service  of  the 
army  and  navy;  and  it  is  certainly  no  very  amusing, 
though,  in  spite  of  oneself,  sometimes  a laughter- 
making process,  by  which  some  of  these  wild  sons  of 
nature  are  trained  to  the  regular  attitudes  and  evolu- 
tions of  soldiers. 

All  important  posts  throughout  the  town  are  regu- 
larly guarded,  and  whoever  approaches  after  eight 
o’clock  at  night,  is  hailed  with  a harsh  indistinct  call, 
“ Quern  vai  Id ?” — Who  goes  there?  The  proper 
answer  is,  “Amigo” — A friend.  To  this  the  con- 
descending permission,  “ Passa  largo!”  is  generally 
retorted  by  the  soldier,  and  the  person  goes  by.  As 
my  lodgings  were  opposite  the  trem,  or  military  arse- 
nal, my  ears  became  very  familiar  with  these  excla- 
mations, which  were  vociferated  the  whole  night  long. 
Not  only  these,  but  the  piercing  scream  “ as  armas!” 
which  resounded  every  hour  when  guard  was  relieved, 
and  the  blowing  of  a horn  at  frequent  intervals,  as  for 
example,  at  Ave  Marias,  when  all  the  soldiers  doff' 
their  caps  in  honor  of  the  Virgin,  formed  no  small 
annoyance,  at  least  during  hours  allotted  to  repose. 
Among  the  troops  stationed  at  Para  was  a corps  of 
German  soldiers,  originally  numbering  three  hundred, 


RIVER  CRAFT. 


269 


but  now,  after  the  fighting,  the  sickness,  and  the  de- 
sertions of  three  or  four  years,  reduced  to  about  sixty. 
Another  peculiar  custom  of  Para  is  the  ringing  of  bells, 
and  the  discharge  of  rockets,  at  a very  early  hour  of 
the  morning.  I sometimes  heard  it  at  four  o’clock, 
and  with  much  regularity  at  five. 

Few  objects  at  Para  attract  more  attention  from 
the  stranger  than  the  fashionable  craft  of  the  river. 
Vessels  of  all  sizes,  from  that  of  a sloop  down  to  a 
shallop,  are  called  canoas.  Few  canoes  proper,  how- 
ever, are  in  use.  The  Montaria,  seen  and  described 
at  Maranham,  is  very  common  in  the  harbor. 

The  large  canoas , made  for  freighting  on  the  river, 
appear  constructed  for  any  thing  else  rather  than  water 


AMAZONIAN  CANOB. 

X 2 


270 


PECULIAR  CUSTOMS. 


craft.  Both  stem  and  stern  are  square.  The  hull 
towers  up  out  of  the  water  like  that  of  a Chinese  junk. 
Over  the  quarter  deck  is  constructed  a species  of 
awming,  or  round-house,  generally  made  of  thatch,  to 
protect  the  navigator  against  the  sun  by  day  and  the 
dew  by  night.  Sometimes  a similar  round-house  is 
constructed  over  the  bows,  and  giving  something  like 
homogeneity  to  the  appearance  of  the  vessel.  This 
arrangement  renders  it  necessary  to  have  a staging, 
or  spar-deck,  rigged  up,  on  which  to  perform  the 
labors  of  navigation.  The  steersman  generally  sits 
perched  upon  the  roof  of  the  after  round-house.  The 
idea  continually  disturbing  my  mind  while  beholding 
these  canoas  was,  that,  being  so  top-heavy,  they  were 
liable  to  overset,  as  they  most  inevitably  would,  if 
exposed  to  a gale  of  wind.  They  are  thought,  how- 
ever, to  answer  very  well  their  purpose  of  floating 
upon  the  tide.  Moreover,  one  special  advantage  of 
the  round-house  is,  that  it  furnishes  room  for  the  sw  ing- 
ing of  hammocks,  and  thus  saves  the  canoe-men  the 
trouble  of  going  on  shore  to  suspend  them  on  the  trees ! 
Mr.  Mawe  says,  that  in  descending  the  Amazon,  he 
passed  a man  who  had  moored  his  canoe,  while  he 
fastened  his  bed  upon  some  branches  of  a tree  over- 
hanging the  water,  and  took  a nap! 

The  street  running  parallel  to  the  river,  and  con- 
necting with  the  several  landings,  is  that  in  which  the 
commercial  business  of  the  place  is  principally  trans- 
acted. At  certain  hours  of  the  day  it  presents  a very 
lively  appearance. 

Various  objects  and  customs  are  observed  at  Para 
that  appear  altogether  peculiar  to  the  place.  In  one 
section  of  the  city,  when  animals  are  slaughtered  for 


PRODUCTIONS  OF  THE  PROVINCE. 


271 


market,  vast  numbers  of  vultures  are  observed  perch- 
ed upon  the  trees,  or  wheeling  lazily  through  the  air. 
Along  the  margin  of  the  river,  both  morning  and  even- 
ing, great  numbers  of  people  may  be  seen  bathing. 
No  ceremonies  are  observed  at  these  very  necessary, 
and  no  doubt  very  agreeable,  ablutions.  Men,  women, 
and  children,  belonging  to  the  lower  classes  as  a mat- 
ter of  course,  may  be  seen  at  the  same  moment  diving, 
plunging,  and  swimming,  in  different  directions. 

There  is  generally  a crowd  of  canoes  around  Ponta 
das  Pedras,  the  principal  landing  place.  These,  toge- 
ther with  the  crowd  of  Indians  busily  hurrying  to  and 
fro,  conversing  in  the  mingled  dialects  of  the  Amazon, 
are  peculiar  to  Para.  Here  may  be  seen  cargoes  of 
Brazil-nuts,  cacao,  vanilla,  annatto,  sarsaparilla,  cin- 
namon, tapioca,  balsam  of  copaiba  in  pots,  coarse 
dried  fish  in  packages,  and  baskets  of  fruits,  in  infinite 
variety,  both  green  and  dry.  Here  are  also  parrots, 
macaws,  and  some  other  birds  of  gorgeous  plumage, 
and  occasionally  monkeys  and  serpents,  together  with 
immense  quantities  of  gum-elastic  shoes,  which  are 
generally  brought  to  market  suspended  on  long  poles, 
to  prevent  their  coming  in  contact  with  each  other. 

The  indigenous  produce  of  the  province  of  Para  is 
immense  in  quantity,  and  of  great  value.  If  the  peo- 
ple were  only  industrious  in  collecting  what  nature 
furnishes  so  bountifully  to  their  hands,  they  could  not 
avoid  being  rich.  If  enterprising  cultivation  were 
added  to  that  degree  of  industry,  there  is  no  limit  to 
the  vegetable  wealth  which  might  be  drawn  from  this 
treasure-house  of  nature. 

My  residence  in  Para  was  one  of  very  great  interest 
to  me.  I received  the  kindest  attentions  from  Mr.  Smith, 


272 


THE  PALACE. 


the  American  consul.  I proved  his  hospitality  on  vari- 
ous occasions ; but  from  the  circumstance  of  his  already 
having  an  American  gentleman  and  lady  in  the  enjoy- 
ment of  it,  I was  at  liberty  to  accept  the  proffer  of  a 
home  which  was  made  me  at  the  close  of  our  Bethel 
service,  on  board  the  Maranhense,  by  Mr.  Henderson, 
a merchant  from  Scotland,  resident  at  Para.  For 
many  reasons  it  would  be  pleasing  to  dwell  upon 
various  particulars  connected  with  my  social  entertain- 
ment while  sojourning  with  Mr.  H. ; but  as  I have 
hitherto  avoided  taking  any  liberties  with  my  friends 
on  these  subjects,  I cannot  now  begin.  Suffice  it  to 
say,  that  whoever  travels  abroad  may  count  himself 
fortunate  to  find  such  a home  and  such  a friend. 

Before  giving  account  of  any  excursions  in  the 
vicinity  of  Para,  I will  mention  that  soon  after  my 
arrival,  in  company  of  the  United  States’  consul,  I 
waited  on  Senhor  Franco,  the  president  of  the  pro- 
vince, to  whom  I bore  a letter  of  commendation.  This 
individual  had  formerly  been  clerk  in  one  of  the  Eng- 
lish mercantile  houses  in  Para,  and  was  subsequently 
educated  as  a beneficiary  of  the  province,  of  which  he 
had  now  become  the  chief  magistrate.  He  received 
us  with  civility,  and  in  person  conducted  us  through 
the  palace.  I found  that  building  one  of  the  best  of 
the  kind  in  the  empire.  It  was  built,  together  with 
the  cathedral  and  some  of  the  churches,  in  the  days  of 
that  talented  but  ambitious  prime  minister  of  Portu- 
gal, the  Marquis  of  Pombal,  who  cherished  the  splen- 
did idea  of  having  the  throne  of  Portugal,  and  all  her 
dominions,  transferred  from  the  banks  of  the  Tagus  to 
those  of  the  Amazon.  This  circumstance  accounts  for 
the  ample  size,  and  magnificent  structure,  of  these 


LICENSE  OF  RESIDENCE. 


273 


buildings,  in  a town  of  moderate  extent.  The  public 
offices  of  the  province  were  arranged  in  apartments 
of  the  palace,  which  still  had  numerous  rooms  unoc- 
cupied, unrepaired,  and  uncleaned.  A little  cultiva- 
tion would  have  transformed  the  grounds  connected 
with  this  edifice  into  a splendid  garden.  Without  it 
they  did  not  deserve  the  name. 

Close  beside  the  palace  stand  the  walls  of  a half 
erected  theatre.  It  was  commenced  in  1775,  by  order 
of  a governor  who  was  so  excessively  fond  of  theatrical 
amusements,  as  to  desire  them  as  near  his  own  door  as 
possible.  Before  his  enterprise  had  progressed  far 
towards  its  completion  his  successor  arrived,  and  pro- 
nouncing the  theatre  quite  out  of  place,  vetoed  its  con- 
struction. The  work  has  never  been  resumed. 

The  prison,  in  the  same  neighborhood,  bears  date 
of  1775.  It  is  well  constructed,  and  in  the  second 
story  furnishes  apartments  for  the  municipal  chamber 
of  the  city.  The  prisoners  exhibit  from  the  windows 
toys  and  trinkets  of  various  kinds,  which  they  make 
for  sale;  and  as  their  place  of  confinement  is,  like 
most  of  the  prisons  of  Brazil,  located  in  a very  pub- 
lic part  of  the  town,  it  is  not  improbable  that  they 
thus  dispose  of  considerable  quantities  of  their  handi- 
craft. 

At  a proper  time  I waited  on  the  juiz  de  direito,  the 
chief  officer  of  the  police,  to  exhibit  my  passport,  and 
obtain  a license  of  residence  in  the  very  loyal  and 
heroic  city  of  Para,  and  the  province  of  which  it  was 
capital.  No  embarrassments  were  put  in  my  way, 
and  no  detention  occurred.  I obtained  the  requisite 
license,  and  kept  it  until  I had  occasion  to  obtain  a 
new  passport  on  my  departure.  Nevertheless,  it  ap- 

Vol.  II.— 35 


274 


NEEDLESS  ALARMS. 


peared  at  one  period,  that  my  unmolested  residence  in 
the  city  was  very  much  in  jeopardy. 

The  old  bishop  of  Para  seemed  to  have  caught  the 
contagion  of  alarm  from  his  colleague  in  Maranham, 
and  both  these  prelates,  yielding  more  than  their  sober 
judgment  should  have  allowed  them  to  certain  un- 
founded and  malicious  representations  sent  them  from 
some  quarter,  wrote  to  Senhor  Franco  concerning  me 
as  a very  dangerous  person,  who  ought  not  to  he  suf- 
fered to  land  in  the  province.  The  president  proba- 
bly satisfied  himself  on  that  point  during  my  visit  to 
him,  and  although  he  owed  his  political  elevation  very 
much  to  his  ecclesiastical  patrons,  yet  he  managed  to 
satisfy  their  apprehensions  by  a very  short  and  formal 
correspondence  with  the  American  consul.  No  person 
interfered  with  me,  or  any  of  my  pursuits,  from  first 
to  last.  In  this  I was  certainly  much  more  fortunate 
than  some  others  had  been  before  me.  Lieutenant 
Mawe,  of  the  British  navy,  while  descending  the  Ama- 
zon from  Peru,  having  gone  on  shore  at  some  point 
to  examine  the  ruins  of  an  old  fort,  was  apprehended 
as  a spy,  and  carried  to  Para  in  durance  vile,  notwith- 
standing all  remonstrances.  No  doubt  such  instances 
of  petty  barbarity  will  continue  to  become  more  rare 
as  the  intelligence  of  the  people,  and  their  rulers,  shall 
continue  to  improve. 

One  of  my  first  excursions  in  the  neighborhood  of 
Para  was  what  is  called  a Bota-fora.  It  was  arranged 
according  to  a custom  of  the  place,  by  which  a vessel 
and  passengers  going  to  sea  are  accompanied  some 
distance  down  the  river.  The  company  consisted  of 
eleven,  including  sailors  to  man  the  launch  by  which 
we  were  to  return.  After  we  had  descended  under 


PRICE  AND  STATE  OF  LANDS. 


275 


the  influence  of  a light  wind  and  a hot  sun  about  twelve 
miles,  we  met  the  tide  and  a strong  breeze  with  which 
to  return.  Coming  back  we  landed  at  an  estate  called 
Pinheiros,  once  the  site  of  a Carmelite  convent,  but 
for  a long  time  past  held  as  private  property,  and  re- 
cently sold  to  the  government  for  a hospital  dos  Laza- 
ros.  The  house  was  large  and  well  built,  but  quite  out 
of  repair.  Near  by  was  a large  establishment  for  the 
manufacture  of  tiles,  bricks,  earthen  jars,  pots,  &c. 
The  situation  of  Pinheiros  is  very  commanding,  and 
eligible  for  almost  any  purpose.  But  so  low  is  the 
valuation  of  land,  that  this  whole  estate,  comprising 
about  three  thousand  acres,  sold  for  eight  contos  of 
reis ; not  exceeding  five  thousand  dollars.  This  may  be 
given  as  a specimen  of  the  prices  of  lands  not  through- 
out the  region  generally,  but  in  the  immediate  vicinity 
of  the  capital  of  the  province,  where,  in  addition  to 
local  advantages,  they  generally  possess  a soil  of  un- 
bounded capacity  for  production. 

Either  through  the  general  insecurity  of  life  and 
property,  or  the  lack  of  industry  and  energy  among 
the  people,  or  owing  to  both  these  causes  united,  sys- 
tematic and  effective  cultivation  is  here  unknown,  and 
millions  upon  millions  of  acres  of  the  most  fertile  land 
in  the  world,  lie  as  wild  and  almost  as  useless  to  man 
as  the  sandy  deserts  of  Africa.  That  a change  for  the 
better  may  come  over  this  scene,  is  much  to  be  hoped, 
but  there  is  at  present  but  little  prospect  of  its  being 
soon  realized.  One  special  advantage  which  Para 
enjoys  over  every  other  part  of  Brazil,  is  the  facility 
of  water  communication.  Besides  the  Amazon  and  its 
larger  tributaries,  an  infinite  number  of  smaller  streams 
and  bayous  intersect  the  whole  country.  Thus  nearly 


276 


PREMATURE  DECAY. 


every  plantation  has  its  river  or  natural  canal,  through 
which  its  produce  can  be  forwarded  to  market  without 
expense  or  delay.  A day  or  two  after,  I took  an  even- 
ing walk  to  a neighboring  plantation  called  the  Una, 
one  of  the  estates  belonging  to  the  late  Baron  of  Ja- 
guar)-. In  former  days  it  was  very  flourishing  and 
beautiful,  being  a favorite  resort  of  the  Baron.  But 
now  its  grounds  were  overgrown  with  trees,  and  an 
impenetrable  jungle.  The  large  and  once  elegant 
house  was  half  rotted  down,  and  only  approachable  by 
a solitary  foot-path  leading  through  an  unbroken  forest. 
The  silence  of  desolation  and  premature  decay  per- 
vaded the  premises.  Not  very  different  was  the  situa- 
tion of  another  establishment  belong-in^  to  the  same 
estate,  but  situated  near  the  town,  and  called  the  Upper 
Una.  Although  originally  constructed  on  a most  ex- 
tensive scale,  and  finished  in  a style  approaching  mag- 
nificence, it  was  found  at  the  time  of  my  visit  rapidly 
verging  to  ruin.  The  verandas,  the  corridors,  the 
salas,  and  the  chapel,  were  tenanted  bv  a few  slaves 
and  a multitude  of  bats.  Even  in  their  decay  they  had 
long  survived  the  feasting,  the  revelries,  and  the  pride 
of  those  whom  the  easily,  if  not  ill-gotten  wealth  of 
early  days,  had  elevated  into  the  aristocracy  of  the 
Gran-Para. 

Reflections  of  a different  character  were  sug- 
gested by  a visit  to  the  American  Rice-mills  at  Ma- 
guary.  This  establishment  was  situated  twelve  miles 
distant  from  Para.  The  road  leads  nearly  the  whole 
way  through  a deep  unbroken  forest,  of  a density  and 
a magnitude  of  which  I had,  before  penetrating  it,  but 
a faint  conception.  Notwithstanding  this  is  one  of  the 
most  public  roads  leading  to  or  from  the  city,  yet  it  is 


AMAZONIAN  FOREST. 


277 


only  for  a short  distance  passable  for  carriages.  In- 
deed, the  branches  of  trees  are  not  unfrequently  in 
the  way  of  the  rider  on  horseback.  A negro  is  sent 
through  the  path  periodically  with  a sabre  to  clip  the 
increasing  foliage  and  branches  before  they  become  too 
formidable.  Thus  the  road  is  kept  open  and  pleasant. 
Notwithstanding  the  heat  of  the  sun  in  these  regions 
at  noonday,  and  the  danger  of  too  much  exposure  to 
its  rays,  yet  an  agreeable  coolness  always  pervades 
those  retreats  of  an  Amazonian  forest,  whose  lofty  and 
umbrageous  canopy  is  almost  impenetrable.  The  bril- 
liancy of  the  sun’s  glare  is  mellowed  by  innumerable 
reflections  upon  the  polished  surface  of  the  leaves. 
Many  of  the  trees  are  remarkably  straight  and  very 
tall.  Some  of  them  are  decked  from  top  to  bottom 
with  splendid  flowers  and  parasites,  while  the  trunks 
and  boughs  of  nearly  all  are  interlaced  with  innumera- 
ble runners  and  creeping  vines. 

These  plants  form  a singular  feature  of  the  more 
fertile  regions  of  Brazil.  But  it  is  on  the  borders  of 
the  Amazon  that  they  appear  in  their  greatest  strength 
and  luxuriance.  They  twist  around  the  trees,  climbing 
up  to  their  tops,  then  grow  down  to  the  ground,  and 
taking  root,  spring  up  again,  and  cross  from  bough  to 
bough,  and  from  tree  to  tree,  wherever  the  wind  car- 
ries their  limber  shoots,  till  the  whole  woods  are  hung 
with  their  garlanding.  This  vegetable  cordage  is 
sometimes  so  closely  interwoven  that  it  has  the  appear- 
ance of  net-work,  which  neither  birds  nor  beasts  can 
easily  pass  through.  Some  of  the  stems  are  as  thick 
as  a man’s  arm.  They  are  round  or  square,  and 
sometimes  triangular,  and  even  pentangular.  They 

Y 


278 


GEOLOGICAL  FORMATION. 


grow  in  knots  and  screws,  and  indeed  in  every  possi- 
ble contortion  to  which  they  may  he  bent.  To  break 
them  is  impossible.  Sometimes  they  kill  the  tree 
which  supports  them,  and  occasionally  remain  standing 
erect,  like  a twisted  column,  after  the  trunk  which 
they  have  strangled  has  mouldered  within  their  involu- 
tions. Monkeys  delight  to  play  their  gambols  upon 
this  wild  rigging;  but  they  are  now  scarce  in  the  neigh- 
borhood of  Para.  Occasionally  their  chatter  is  heard 
at  a distance,  mingled  with  the  shrill  cries  of  birds,  but 
generally  a deep  stillness  prevails,  adding  grandeur  to 
the  native  majesty  of  these  forests. 

The  soil  over  which  we  passed  was  generally  rich, 
being  composed  of  intermingled  clay  and  sand.  It 
was  occasionally  sprinkled  by  a choice  mould.  We 
passed  some  half  a dozen  small  streams,  over  which 
were  rude  bridges.  In  one  place  I discovered  a beau- 
tiful section  of  rock,  which  exhibited  as  plainly  as  pos- 
sible the  action  of  the  sea.  Its  general  surface  was 
worn  smooth,  while  here  and  there  small  holes  had 
been  sunk  in  the  mass.  Perhaps  these  cavities  had 
once  been  nestling  places  for  the  echinus. 

This  circumstance  admirably  illustrates  the  geologi- 
cal formation  of  the  surrounding  regions.  They  are, 
beyond  question,  the  alluvial  products  of  the  great 
king  of  waters,  which  has  brought  down  the  mud  and 
loam  of  the  lands  it  washes,  to  mingle  with  the  sands 
of  the  receding  ocean.  Thus,  doubtless,  was  formed 
the  great  island  of  Marajo,  together  with  numerous 
smaller  islands  in  the  delta  of  the  Amazon.  Two  cir- 
cumstances connected  with  the  river  itself,  strikingly 
confirm  this  theory.  1st.  Its  waters  are  muddy,  pre- 


RICE- MILL. 


279 


cipitating  a thick  sediment.  2d.  The  process  of  new 
formations  is  observable  in  its  channel,  while  at  the 
same  time  islands  occasionally  disappear.  I was 
pointed,  while  upon  the  river  one  day,  to  the  locality 
of  an  island  called  Paraquete,  which  was  well  remem- 
bered by  all  who  had  navigated  the  stream  in  former 
years.  A deep  channel  now  leads  over  the  spot,  and 
not  a vestige  of  the  island  remains.  Another  island 
is  forming  at  no  great  distance  from  this  same  locality.- 
The  first  notice  had  of  it  was  from  a vessel  which 
struck  on  a hitherto  unknown,  and  then  invisible  sand- 
bank. Now  some  acres  of  beautiful  green  shrubbery 
are  exhibited  by  its  surface,  and  soon  tall  trees  will 
stand  upon  it.  The  rapidity  of  vegetable  growth  has- 
tens this  great  work  of  nature. 

Resuming  our  rout  to  Maguary,  I was  surprised  to 
see  lands  which  ten  or  twelve  years  ago  had  been 
planted  with  sugar-cane,  now  entirely  overgrown  with 
trees  of  no  insignificant  dimensions.  Only  a few  acres 
immediately  around  the  engenho  had  been  kept  free 
from  these  encroachments.  Here  was  located  the  first 
mill  for  cleaning  rice  ever  built  in  the  vicinity  of 
Para.  It  was  established  by  North  American  enter- 
prise. A small  water  power  existed  on  the  site,  but 
after  the  mills  were  constructed,  it  was  found  that  this 
power  was  insufficient  in  the  dry  season;  consequently, 
a steam  engine  of  sixteen  horse  power  was  imported 
from  the  United  States,  and  has  been  made  to  do  good 
service.  The  steam  power  was  kept  in  action  con- 
stantly, and  at  proper  seasons  the  water  power  also. 
Both  were  inadequate  to  the  amount  of  business  that 
offered.  Several  American  mechanics  were  employed 


280 


CHEAP  CONVEYANCE. 


at  this  establishment,  which,  small  as  it  is,  compares 
favorably  with  any  mechanical  establishment  in  the 
whole  country.  A stream  connects  this  engenho  with 
the  great  river,  and  thus  furnishes  cheap  conveyance 
for  cargoes  to  and  from  the  city. 


PRODUCTIONS  OF  PARA. 


281 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

Indigenous  Productions  of  Pard. — India  Rubber. — Massaranduba. — 
Annato. — Cacao. — Botany. — Vaca  Marina. — Turtle-egg  Butter. — 
Convents. — Cathedral. — Paintings  vs.  Images. — Bentinhos. — Annual 
Festivities. — The  Procession. — The  Crowd. — Amusements. — The 
Results. — An  Evening  Scene. — Morning. — Water  Carriers. 

Returning  to  the  capital,  we  will  glance  at  the  pro- 
ducts and  business  of  the  province.  From  what  has 
been  already  intimated,  the  reader  is  aware  that  Para 
furnishes  a greater  variety  of  indigenous  productions 
used  in  foreign  commerce  than  any  other  portion  of 
the  empire,  and  perhaps  greater  than  any  other  port 
in  the  world. 

Rice,  cotton,  sugar,  and  hides,  are  exported  in  small 
quantities,  and  are  produced  by  the  ordinary  methods. 
The  trade  in  gum-elastic,  cacao,  sarsaparilla,  cloves, 
urucu,  and  Brazil-nuts,  is  more  peculiar. 

The  use  of  the  caoutchouc  or  gum-elastic,  was 
learned  from  the  Omaguas,  a tribe  of  Brazilian  Indians. 
These  savages  used  it  in  the  form  of  bottles  and  sy- 
ringes. It  was  their  custom  to  present  a bottle  of  it 
to  every  guest  at  the  beginning  of  one  of  their  feasts. 
The  Portuguese  settlers  in  Para  were  the  first  who 
profited  by  turning  it  to  other  uses,  converting  it  into 
shoes,  boots,  hats,  and  garments.  It  was  found  to  be 
specially  serviceable  in  a country  so  much  exposed  to 
rains  and  floods.  But  of  late  the  improvements  in 
its  manufacture  have  vastly  extended  its  uses,  and 
made  it  essential  to  the  health  and  comfort  of  the 
whole  enlightened  world.  The  aboriginal  name  of  this 
Vol.  II— 36  t 2 


282 


INDIA-RUBBER. 


substance  was  cahuchu,  the  pronunciation  of  which  is 
nearly  preserved  in  the  word  caoutchouc.  At  Para  it 
is  now  generally  called  borracha.  It  is  the  product  of 
the  Siphilla  elasfica,  a tree  which  grows  to  the  height 
of  eighty,  and  sometimes  one  hundred  feet.  It  gene- 
rally runs  up  quite  erect,  forty  or  fifty  feet,  without 
branches.  Its  top  is  spreading,  and  is  ornamented 
with  a thick  and  glossy  foliage.  On  the  slightest 
incision  the  gum  exudes,  having  at  first  the  appear- 
ance of  thick  yellow  cream. 

The  trees  are  generally  tapped  in  the  morning,  and 
about  a gill  of  the  fluid  is  collected  from  one  incision 
in  the  course  of  the  day.  It  is  caught  in  small  cups 
of  clay,  moulded  for  the  purpose  with  the  hand.  These 
are  emptied,  when  full,  into  a jar.  No  sooner  is  this 
gum  collected,  than  it  is  ready  for  immediate  use. 
Forms  of  various  kinds,  representing  shoes,  bottles, 
toys,  &c.,  are  in  readiness,  made  of  clay. 

When  shoes  are  manufactured,  it  is  a matter  of  eco- 
nomy to  have  wooden  lasts.  These  are  first  coated 
with  clay,  so  as  to  be  easily  withdrawn.  A handle  is 
affixed  to  the  last  for  the  convenience  of  working. 
The  fluid  is  poured  over  the  form,  and  a thin  coating 
immediately  adheres  to  the  clay.  The  next  movement 
is  to  expose  the  gum  to  the  action  of  smoke.  The 
substance  ignited  for  this  purpose  is  the  fruit  of  the 
trassou  palm.  This  fumigation  serves  the  double  pur- 
pose of  drying  the  gum,  and  of  giving  it  a darker  color. 
When  one  coating  is  sufficiently  hardened,  another  is 
added,  and  smoked  in  turn.  Thus  any  thickness  can 
be  produced.  It  is  seldom  that  a shoe  receives  more 
than  a dozen  coats.  The  work,  when  formed,  is  ex- 
posed to  the  sun.  For  a day  or  two  it  remains  soft 


MANUFACTURE  OF  SHOES, 


2S3 


MANUFACTURE  OF  INDIA  RUBBER  SHOES. 

enough  to  receive  permanent  impressions.  During 
this  time  the  shoes  are  figured  according  to  the  fancy  of 
the  operatives,  by  the  use  of  a style  or  pointed  stick. 
They  retain  their  yellowish  color  for  some  time  after 
the  lasts  are  taken  out  and  they  are  considered  ready 
for  market.  Indeed  they  are  usually  sold  when  the 
gum  is  so  fresh,  that  the  pieces  require  to  be  kept 
apart ; hence,  pairs  of  shoes  are  generally  tied  together 
and  suspended  on  long  poles.  They  may  be  seen  daily 
at  Para,  suspended  over  the  decks  of  the  canoes  that 
come  down  the  river,  and  on  the  shoulders  of  the  men 
who  deliver  them  to  the  merchants.  Those  who  buy 
the  shoes  for  exportation,  commonly  stuff  them  with 
dried  grass,  to  preserve  their  extension.  Various  per- 


284 


MASSARANDUBA. 


sons  living  in  the  suburbs  of  Para,  collect  the  caoutchouc 
and  manufacture  it  on  a small  scale.  But  it  is  from 
plantations  devoted  to  the  business,  that  the  market  is 
chiefly  supplied.  The  gum  may  be  gathered  during 
the  entire  year,  but  it  is  more  easily  collected,  and 
more  serviceable,  during  the  dry  season.  The  months 
of  May,  June,  July,  and  August,  are  specially  devoted 
to  its  preparation.  Besides  great  quantities  of  this 
substance  which  leave  Para  in  other  forms,  there  have 
been  exported  for  some  years  past  about  three  hundred 
thousand  pairs  of  gum  elastic  shoes  annually.  The 
Amazonian  region  now  supplies,  and  probably  will  long 
continue  to  supply,  in  a great  degree,  the  present  and 
the  rapidly  increasing  demand  for  this  material.  Seve- 
ral other  trees,  most  of  them  belonging  to  the  tribe 
euphorbiaciae,  produce  a similar  gum,  but  none  of 
them  is  likely  tb  enter  into  competition  with  the  India 
rubber  tree  of  Para. 

Another  tree,  not  uncommon  in  the  province,  called 
.he  massaranduba,  yields  a white  secretion,  which  so 
resembles  milk  that  it  is  much  prized  for  an  aliment. 
It  forms  when  coagulated  a species  of  plaster,  which 
is  deemed  valuable.  The  trees  yield  the  fluid  in  great 
profusion.  Their  botanical  character  has  never  been 
properly  investigated.  It  is  to  be  presumed  that  there 
is  a close  affinity  between  the  massaranduba  of  Para, 
the  cow  tree  of  Demerara,  and  the  butter  tree  of 
Africa,  if  indeed  they  do  not  all  belong  to  the  same 
species.  It  may  be  remarked,  that  the  juice  of  the 
India-rubber  tree  is  also  sometimes  used  as  milk.  The 
negroes  and  Indians,  who  work  in  its  preparation,  are 
said  to  be  fond  of  drinking  it. 

The  annato,  or  urucu,  is  another  valuable  produc- 


VEGETABLE  PRODUCTIONS. 


285 


tion  of  Para.  This  is  a well-known  coloring  matter, 
of  an  orange  dye.  It  is  a product  of  the  tree  known 
to  botanists  as  the  bixa  orellana.  This  tree  grows 
ordinarily  about  the  size  and  form  of  the  quince  tree, 
and  exhibits  clusters  of  red  and  white  flowers.  Its 
coloring  matter  was  extensively  used  by  tbe  aborigi- 
nals at  the  period  of  discovery.  By  means  of  it  they 
formed  various  kinds  of  paint,  and  were  fond  of  be- 
smearing the  whole  surface  of  their  bodies  with  it. 

The  preparation  used  in  commerce  is  the  oily  pulp 
of  the  seed,  which  is  rubbed  oft'  and  then  left  to  fer- 
ment. After  fermentation  it  is  rolled  into  cakes, 
weighing  from  two  to  three  pounds,  and  in  this  form 
is  exported.  The  cocoa-nut  is  rarely,  if  ever,  pro- 
duced at  Para.  Cacao,  the  substance  from  which 
chocolate  is  prepared,  is  a common  and  valuable  pro- 
duction of  Para.  It  is  made  from  the  seeds  of  the 
theobroma  cacao. 

It  is  not  generally  known  that  the  triangular  fruit, 
called  in  England  and  the  United  States  the  Brazil- 
nut,  is  only  produced  in  the  northern  parts  of  the  em- 
pire. It  grows  spontaneously  in  great  abundance  in 
the  forests  of  the  Amazon.  The  Portuguese  call  it 
“ Castanlia  do  Maranham ,” — the  Maranham  chestnut, 
it  having  first  been  exported  from  that  province.  It 
grows  upon  the  lofty  branches  of  a giant  tree,  the 
bertholletia  excelsa.  When  the  fruit  is  new,  and  not 
hardened  by  age,  it  is  much  more  delicious  than  after- 
ward. 

It  would  be  an  interesting,  although  an  almost  end- 
less task,  to  investigate  the  botany  of  the  Amazon. 
Laurels  are  yet  to  be  won  in  this  field  of  science;  and 
it  must  be  set  down  as  by  no  means  complimentary  to 


286 


VARIOUS  SPECIES  OF  FISH. 


American  botanists,  that  they  have  not  entered  it  as 
competitors.  I often  heard  of  Burchell  as  having 
resided  some  time  at  Para,  but  I apprehend  that  he 
was,  at  the  period  of  his  visit,  too  far  advanced  in 
years  to  do  full  justice  either  to  his  own  reputation  or 
to  the  interminable  field  here  spread  before  him. 

The  waters  of  the  great  river  are  scarcely  less  pro- 
ductive than  the  soil  of  its  banks.  Innumerable  species 
of  fish,  and  amphibious  animals,  abound  in  it.  Several 
large  kinds  of  fish  are  salted  and  dried  for  use.  But 
the  commerce  in  this  article  of  food  does  not  extend 
beyond  the  coast.  Owing  to  the  style  of  preparation, 
or  to  the  coarse  quality  of  the  fish,  foreigners  set  no 
value  upon  it.  The  most  remarkable  inhabitant  of 
these  waters  is  the  vaca  marina,  commonly  called  by 
the  Portuguese  peixc  boi,  or  fish  ox.  This  name  is 
evidently  given  on  account  of  the  animal’s  size,  rather 
than  from  any  resemblance  to  the  ox  or  cow,  other 
than  its  being  mammiferous. 


VACA  MARINA 


VACA  MARINA. 


287 


The  vaca  marina  cannot  be  called  amphibious,  since 
it  never  leaves  the  water.  It  feeds  principally  upon  a 
water  plant  (cana  brava)  that  floats  on  the  borders  of 
the  stream.  It  often  raises  its  head  above  the  water 
to  respire,  as  well  as  to  feed  upon  this  vegetable.  At 
these  moments  it  is  attacked  and  captured.  It  has  only 
two  fins,  which  are  small,  and  situated  near  its  head. 
The  udders  of  the  female  are  beneath  these  fins.  This 
has  been  pronounced  the  largest  fish  inhabiting  fresh 
water ; but  notwithstanding  its  mammoth  dimensions, 
being  sometimes  seventeen  feet  long,  and  two  or  three 
feet  thick  at  the  widest  part,  and  in  fact  the  largest 
known  inhabitant  of  fresh  water,  its  eyes  are  extremely 
small,  and  the  orifices  of  its  ears  are  scarcely  larger 
than  a pin-head.  Its  skin  is  very  thick  and  hard — not 
easily  penetrated  by  a musket  ball.  The  Indians  used 
to  make  shields  of  it  for  their  defence  in  war.  Its  fat 
and  flesh  have  always  been  in  estimation.  It  served 
the  natives  in  place  of  beef.  Not  having  salt  for  the 
purpose,  they  used  to  preserve  the  flesh  by  means  of 
smoke.  For  seasoning  they  used  the  ashes  of  a species 
of  palm. 

The  turtle-egg  butter  of  Amazonia  (manteiga  da 
tartaruga)  is  a substance  quite  peculiar  to  this  quarter 
of  the  globe.  At  certain  seasons  of  the  year  the  tur- 
tles appear  by  thousands  on  the  banks  of  the  rivers,  in 
order  to  deposit  their  eggs  upon  the  sand.  The  noise 
of  their  shells  striking  against  each  other  in  the  rush, 
is  said  to  be  sometimes  heard  at  a great  distance. 
Their  work  commences  at  dusk,  and  ends  with  the 
following  dawn,  when  they  retire  to  the  water.  Their 
task  is  continued  until  each  turtle  has  deposited  from 
sixty  to  one  hundred  and  forty  eggs. 


288 


TURTLE-EGG  BUTTER. 


During  the  day-time  the  inhabitants  collect  these 
eggs,  and  pile  them  up  in  heaps  resembling  the  stacks 
of  cannon-balls  seen  at  a navy-yard.  These  heaps  are 
often  twenty  feet  in  diameter,  and  of  a corresponding 
height.  While  yet  fresh  they  are  thrown  into  wooden 
canoes,  or  other  large  vessels,  and  broken  with  sticks, 
and  stamped  fine  with  the  feet.  Water  is  then  poured 
on,  and  the  whole  is  exposed  to  the  rays  of  the  sun. 
The  heat  brings  the  oily  matter  of  the  eggs  to  the  sur- 
face, from  which  it  is  skimmed  off  with  cuyas  and 
shells.  After  this  it  is  subjected  to  a moderate  heat, 
until  ready  for  use.  When  clarified,  it  has  the  ap- 
pearance of  butter  that  has  been  melted.  It  always 
retains  the  taste  of  fish  oil,  but  is  much  prized  for 
seasoning  bv  the  Indians  and  those  who  are  accus- 
tomed  to  its  use.  It  is  conveyed  to  market  in  earthen 
jars.  In  earlier  times  it  was  estimated  that  nearly 
two  hundred  and  fifty  millions  of  turtles’  eggs  were 
annually  destroyed  in  the  manufacture  of  this  man- 
teiga.  Recently  the  number  is  less,  owing  to  the  gra- 
dual inroads  made  upon  the  turtle  race,  and  also  to 
the  advance  of  civilization. 

Without  dwelling  longer  upon  the  novelties  of  the 
business  world  at  Para,  I will  set  before  the  reader  an 
account  of  the  religious  establishment  and  customs  of 
the  place.  The  city  is  divided  into  two  parishes,  and 
contains  in  all  eleven  churches  and  chapels.  There 
are  two  convents,  one  belonging  to  the  slippered  Car- 
melites, occupied  by  three  friars  and  two  novices;  the 
other  belongs  to  the  Capuchins  of  the  order  of  St.  An- 
thony, and  has  only  two  friars.  The  old  college  of 
the  Jesuits  forms  a residence  for  the  bishop,  and  the 
seat  of  his  ecclesiastical  seminary.  The  old  convent 


CATHEDRAL. 


289 


of  S.  Boa  Ventura  is  converted  into  a marine  arsenal, 
and  the  extensive  monastery  of  the  mercenaries  fur- 
nishes apartments  for  both  the  military  arsenal  and 
the  custom-house.  No  monks  of  either  of  these 
orders  are  left  to  sigh  over  the  desecration  of  their 
costly  tenements.  What  a comment  on  their  mis- 
taken zeal!  What  an  instance  of  the  fatality  that  ul- 
timately overtakes  ostentatious  pietism ! The  money 
and  the  time  expended  in  the  erection  of  the  five 
monasteries  in  Para,  which  are  now  confessedly  use- 
less, except  so  far  as  they  are  appropriated  to  secular 
use,  would  probably  have  been  enough  to  furnish  the 
Holy  Scriptures  to  the  numerous  tribes  of  the  Amazon. 

The  cathedral  of  Para  is  the  largest  church  edifice 
in  the  empire.  It  was  commenced  in  1720,  on  the 
separation  of  the  diocese  from  that  of  Maranham,  and 
was  designed  to  be,  according  to  the  wish  of  the  king 
of  Portugal,  “ second  to  none  beyond  the  waters  of 
the  Tagus.”  Having  been  duly  completed,  it  was  con- 
secrated in  1775  by  the  new  bishop,  assisted  by  the 
“ monks,  magnates,  and  people.” 

Its  external  appearance  resembles  the  Candellaria 
of  Rio  de  Janeiro.  From  its  towers  a splendid  view 
of  the  city  and  surrounding  country  may  be  enjoyed. 
Within,  it  is  constructed  after  the  usual  model  of  the 
Brazilian  Catholic  churches,  having  thirteen  different 
altars  before  which  mass  is  said.  Three  of  these  are 
sacred  to  the  Virgin  Mary,  in  honor  of  whom  massive 
silver  lamps  are  kept  constantly  lighted,  wffiile  the 
other  poor  saints  are  left  to  the  common  mercy  of 
daylight. 

One  feature  in  the  style  of  ornament  used  in 
this  church  deserves  particular  mention.  It  is  the 

Vol.  II— 37  Z 


290 


PAINTINGS  VS.  IMAGES. 


general  use  of  paintings  over  the  several  altars,  to  the 
exclusion  of  images.  The  execution  of  the  paint- 
ings, moreover,  is  superior  to  that  witnessed  in  most 
attempts  at  the  art,  which  the  traveler  will  see  in  dif- 
ferent parts  of  the  empire.  Even  though  it  were  indif- 
ferent, a person  can  behold  with  more  complacency 
the  essays  of  an  artist,  than  the  poor  creations  of  an 
image-maker.  As  to  statuary,  there  is  not  the  least 
pretension  to  it  among  the  thousands  of  images  which 
are  adored  in  the  churches,  and  paraded  in  proces- 
sions. Whether  constructed  of  wood,  wax,  or  alabas- 
ter, there  is  generally  a coarseness  in  their  appearance 
which  is  repulsive,  and  a haggardliness  of  features 
which  the  tinseled  apparel,  and  gaudy  ornaments,  so 
profusely  used,  do  but  little  to  relieve.  The  obvious 
intent  of  this  expression  of  countenance  is  to  be  affect- 
ing— and  surely  that  end  is  answered,  for  no  person  of 
taste  can  behold  many  of  the  images  in  question  with- 
out having  his  sensibilities  most  painfully  affected. 
Indeed,  it  is  hardly  possible  to  disassociate  from  many 
of  these  objects  the  idea  of  sheer  profanity,  specially 
in  the  pretended  images  of  the  Saviour.  True,  many 
of  the  subjects  arc  melancholy  in  themselves — for  exam- 
ple, those  relating  to  the  crucifixion — but  even  these 
furnish  no  apology  for  caricatures  of  grief  and  agony. 

That  person  must  possess  a singular  constitution  of 
mind,  whose  devotional  feelings  would  be  elevated  by 
the  sight  of  images,  having  at  the  most  only  a forced 
and  arbitrary  association  with  any  sacred  object,  or 
whose  piety  would  languish  for  lack  of  such  appeals  to 
his  senses.  What  do  the  image-makers  know  respect- 
ing the  characters  whose  names  they  place  upon  their 
work"?  IIow  can  any  sentiment  of  pure  religion  be 


FORTY  YEARS’  INDULGENCE.  291 

excited  by  the  products  of  their  crude  imaginations, 
and  their  barbarous  handicraft? 

Although  the  use  of  paintings  over  the  altars  of 
churches  amounts  to  nearly  the  same  thing  in  a reli- 
gious point  of  view,  yet,  as  it  respects  decency  and 
taste,  it  is  a decided  improvement.  This  substitution 
prevails  more  generally  at  Para  than  any  where  else 
in  Brazil;  and  an  instance  is  not  lacking,  calculated 
to  show  the  absurdity  and  extravagance  to  which  even 
this  practice  leads.  In  the  church  of  Espirito  Santo, 
over  the  principal  altar,  there  is  an  attempt  to  repre- 
sent the  Deity  upon  canvas.  The  very  idea  is  shock- 
ing to  those  accustomed  to  worship  God  in  spirit  and 
in  truth,  and  the  execution  is  nearly  in  keeping  with 
that  idea.  The  Father  is  represented  as  a very  old 
man,  dressed  in  a monkish  gown,  with  a figure  of  the 
Son  on  his  right,  bearing  a cross.  Both  are  repre- 
sented as  sitting,  while  the  form  of  a dove  is  descend- 
ing between  them. 

In  the  same  church  I saw  an  image  called  Nossa 
Senhora  do  Rozario,  with  a manuscript  attached  to  it, 
stating  that  the  bishop  had  conceded  to  all  who,  after 
the  act  of  contrition,  should  pray  before  said  image,  a 
Salve  Rainha,  making  petitions  for  the  prosperity  of  the 
church,  and  the  extirpation  of  heresies,  not  less  than 
forty  years’  indulgence.  A document  in  the  chapel  of 
the  Carmelites  offers  also,  on  the  authority  of  the 
bishop,  forty  years’  indulgence  to  all  contrite  persons, 
who,  at  any  day  or  hour,  shall  pray  in  that  church 
three  Are  Marias  and  three  Salve  Rainhas. 

Most  of  the  churches  of  Para  are  built,  like  the  ca- 
thedral, after  the  form  of  the  Latin  cross.  That  of 
Santa  Anna,  in  the  eastern  part  of  the  city,  is  after 


292 


ANNUAL  FESTIVITIES. 


the  form  of  the  Greek  cross.  It  has  three  altars  at 
the  extremities  of  the  cross,  the  door  standing  at 
the  foot,  with  the  orchestra  placed  above  it,  and  sus- 
tained on  large  columns.  A skylight,  on  the  pinna- 
cle of  a large  dome  towering  up  in  the  center,  admits 
the  rays  of  the  sun  with  fine  effect,  but  not  to  the 
exclusion  of  candles  in  the  day  time.  This  church 
exhibits  not  only  paintings  and  images,  but  even  figures 
m fresco.  Its  door,  like  that  of  many  other  churches, 
is  plentifully  hung  with  bentinhos,  beads,  crosses,  and 
miniature  images,  which,  having  been  blessed,  or 
sprinkled  with  holy  water,  are  worn  upon  the  persons 
of  those  to  whom  they  belong.  They  are  often  sus- 
pended to  the  necks  of  children,  and  supposed  by 
many  to  act  as  charms  in  keeping  off  various  evils.  It 
is  the  custom,  when  one  of  these  articles  is  found,  to 
hang  it  upon  the  door  of  the  church,  where  the  person 
who  lost  it  may  find  his  own. 

The  great  religious  festival  of  Para  is  called  the 
Festa  de  Nossa  Senhora  de  Nazareth.  It  is  a mov- 
able feast,  occurring  either  in  September  or  October, 
and  always  arranged  to  commence  with  the  new  moon, 
so  that  fine  evenings  may  be  expected  for  nine  or  ten 
days  following.  The  following  is  the  origin  of  this 
feast,  according  to  Bacna,  author  of  the  Eras  do  Para. 

“ In  1774,  a hermitage  was  erected  on  the  road  to 
Utinga,  and  consecrated  to  our  Lady  of  Nazareth. 
This  hermitage  is  located  seven  hundred  and  ninety- 
two  yards  east  of  the  Largo  da  Polvora,  on  the  spot 
where  a mulatto,  called  Placido,  used  to  live.  lie  was 
the  sole  inhabitant  of  the  place,  and  used  to  worship 
in  his  thatched  cabin  an  image  of  the  Lady  of  the 
above-named  invocation.  This  he  kept  in  a rude  case, 


A FESTIVAL  DECREED. 


293 


(armario,)  and  on  a certain  day  of  each  week  certain 
devout  persons  used  to  assemble  and  pray  before  it, 
bringing  their  offerings  of  wax  and  candles.  After 
the  mulatto’s  death,  the  image  passed  into  the  keep- 
ing of  one  Antonio  Augostinho,  who  stirred  up  the 
zeal  of  certain  devout  persons  to  erect  the  aforemen- 
tioned hermitage.  A handsome  square  of  ground  was, 
at  the  same  time,  set  apart  for  its  occupancy. 

“ On  the  3d  of  July,  1793,  Souza  Coutinho,  the 
twenty-fifth  captain-general  of  the  Gran  Para  and 
Rio  Negro,  decreed  that  there  should  annually  be  held 
on  this  spot  a general  festival  in  honor  of  our  Lady 
of  Nazareth.  The  brotherhood  of  the  church  was  in- 
structed thenceforward  to  solemnize  the  occasion  with 
a novena,  a chanted  mass,  and  a procession.  The 
image  should  be  deposited  in  the  chapel  of  the  govern- 
ment palace,  on  the  eve  of  the  first  day  of  the  novena, 
so  as  on  the  following  day  to  be  conveyed,  in  public 
procession,  to  the  church.” 

Such  an  institution  accorded  too  well  with  the  reli- 
gious genius  of  the  people,  not  to  be  zealously  observed 
and  handed  down  to  their  children.  The  anniversary 
occurred  during  my  residence  in  the  city,  and  I con- 
sequently had  the  opportunity  of  observing  as  much  of 
it  as  I had  any  inclination  to  see.  Preparations  were 
made  on  an  extensive  scale  some  time  in  advance  of 
the  festa.  The  road  leading  from  the  city  to  the 
church  extends  most  of  the  way  through  a forest,  and 
requires  every  year  to  be  cleaned  of  its  shrubbery  afresh. 
The  church  stands  at  one  corner  of  the  square  men- 
tioned above.  This  square  is  the  only  cleared  ground 
in  the  neighborhood.  As  in  the  road,  the  surface  of 

z 2 


294 


THE  PROCESSION. 


this  opening  needs  to  have  the  weeds  and  brushwood 
annually  cleared  oft'.  Parts  of'  it  are  generally  burned 
over.  Around  the  area,  barracas,  a species  of  board 
tents,  are  constructed,  for  the  accommodation  of  fami- 
lies who  wish  to  remove  to  the  spot  during  these  holi- 
days. Towards  evening  of  the  day  fixed  upon  for 
opening  the  festivities,  a long  procession,  bearing  the 
image,  moved  slowly  out  of  the  city  towards  the  her- 
mitage, or  church  in  the  woods. 

First  preceded  a company  of  outriders,  military 
officers,  and  citizens  on  horseback ; then  followed  a 
cart,  called  the  car  of  triumph,  drawn  by  two  oxen, 
and  surmounted  by  large  fantastic  frame-work,  cover- 
ed with  painted  cloth.  Within  the  vehicle  was  a knot 
of  boys,  whose  dignified  office  it  was  to  edify  the  mul- 
titude by  firing  off  rockets,  of  which  they  had  a large 
supply. 

Next  came  a band  of  martial  music,  and  a company 
of  cavalry  with  drawn  swords.  The  civil  escort  was 
now  in  order.  It  consisted  of  some  twenty-five  per- 
sons on  horseback,  and  eight  or  ten  carriages,  which 
were  understood  to  be  nearly  all  the  city  could  muster. 
Finally  came  the  president  of  the  province,  in  full  uni- 
form, and  after  him  a sege,  bearing  a single  priest, 
with  the  image  of  Nossa  Senhora  in  his  lap.  It  was 
not  more  than  two  feet  high,  but  was  dressed  out  with 
a great  array  of  finery.  Several  foot  companies  of 
military  closed  up  the  procession,  while  hundreds  of 
people  thronged  around  as  spectators.  The  chief 
peculiarity  that  I observed  in  the  crowd,  as  compared 
with  collections  of  people  seen  in  other  cities  of  Brazil, 
was  the  unusual  number  of  females,  of  different  shades 


THE  CROWD. 


295 


of  color , between  black  and  yellow,  who  were  gaily 
dressed,  and  ornamented  with  gold  and  jewelry  in  the 
greatest  profusion.  Many  of  these  females  carried 
trays  of  sugar  toys  upon  their  heads,  and  little  stools 
in  their  hands,  upon  which  they  occasionally  sat  down 
to  vend  their  commodities. 

The  people  were  generally  quite  well  dressed,  and 
very  orderly  in  their  appearance.  The  image  once 
deposited  in  the  church  the  novena  commenced,  and 
was  continued  on  the  eight  successive  evenings.  This 
was  the  chief  religious  exercise  of  the  occasion.  It 
was  enlivened  by  the  performances  of  a band  of  instru- 
mental music,  being,  as  one  would  expect,  preceded 
and  followed  by  a deafening  discharge  of  sky-rockets. 
Masses  of  people  crowd  around  the  church  during  this 
service,  and  join  in  singing  the  litany  to  the  saints  and 
the  Virgin.  They  afterward  disperse,  and  stroll  about 
the  grounds,  or  resort  to  parties,  balls,  and  gaming 
clubs.  I was  sorry  to  observe  that  of  all  the  other 
amusements,  gaming  seemed  to  attract  most  attention, 
and  excite  most  interest. 

On  the  splendid  moonlight  nights  of  the  season  the 
city  would  be  nearly  emptied  of  people,  and  multitudes, 
todo  o mundo,  would  crowd  to  the  Nazareth  feast. 
How  few  of  them  all  had  any  proper  idea  of  the  cha- 
racter of  Him  who  came  out  of  Nazareth  to  take  away 
the  sins  of  his  people! 

The  church  on  this  spot  was  quite  small,  and  con- 
structed so  much  like  a dwelling-house  as  to  have  a 
double  veranda,  above  and  below,  on  three  of  its  sides. 
In  the  upper  veranda  hung  the  hammocks  of  the  sol- 
diers on  guard.  In  front  stood  a species  of  alpendre, 


296 


WORSHIP  OF  THE  IMAGE. 


or  rancho,  with  a tiled  roof.  AVithin  the  mass-house 
were  two  altars — that  surmounted  by  the  image  borne 
in  the  procession  stood  on  the  right,  and  was  unusually 
elevated.  One  would  have  supposed  that  this  image 
came  from  France,  for  its  tout  ensemble  reminded  the 
beholder  of  toy-shop  dolls  of  the  largest  size.  Two 
wide  ribbons,  one  green  and  the  other  red,  extended 
from  the  dress  over  the  altar,  and  hung  down  towards 
the  floor.  Hundreds  of  people  crowded  around  to 
enjoy,  in  turn,  the  privilege  of  kneeling  down  and  kiss- 
ing these  ribbons ! On  the  opposite  wall  hung  a col- 
lection of  plaster  forms,  representing  all  manner  of 
ulcerated  limbs  and  diseased  members,  that  were  said 
to  have  been  miraculously  cured  by  our  Lady.  Near 
these  hung  a rude  painting,  designed  to  show  an  appa- 
rition of  said  Lady  to  a sick  person,  who,  of  course, 
recovered.  Lest  this  event  should  not  be  compre- 
hended it  was  explained  in  the  vulgar  tongue — Milagre 
que  fez  Nossa  Senhora  de  Nazar e ! 

How  changed  in  appearance  was  this  whole  scene 
when  visited  in  the  morning  at  early  dawn.  The 
crowd  had  disappeared.  Here  and  there  an  individual 
might  be  seen  sleeping  on  the  ground — others  were 
taking  rest  in  their  unopened  barracas.  No  romance 
of  moonbeams,  or  glimmering  tapers,  now  lend  en- 
chantment to  the  half-defined  objects  that  address  the 
sight.  The  artificial  decorations  so  profusely  displayed, 
are  now  seen  in  their  true  colors.  Hangings  of  mat- 
ting, of  muslin,  and  of  calico,  together  with  national 
and  signal  flags,  are  suspended  around  the  barracas, 
and  occasionally  seen  elevated  on  poles,  but  every 
thing  is  lifeless  and  dull,  indicating  the  results  that 


RESULTS. 


297 


might  be  expected  to  follow  the  stupid  amusements 
and  general  debauch  of  the  preceding  night.  I often 
observed  that  the  stars  and  stripes  of  the  United  States 
seemed  to  be  a favorite  ornament  on  such  occasions  as 
this,  and  here  a single  establishment  displayed  two 
United  States’  flags. 

General  reflections  upon  the  character  and  tendency 
of  such  a scene  of  festivities,  so  absorbing  to  a whole 
community,  and  so  long  continued,  seem  unnecessary. 
If  it  had  no  religious  pretensions  it  would  be  less  ex- 
ceptionable. But  for  a people  to  be  made  to  think 
themselves  doing  God’s  service,  while  mingling  in  such 
amusements  and  follies,  is  painfully  lamentable. 

The  whole  feast,  indeed,  passed  oft'  without  any 
public  disorder.  But  who  was  the  wiser,  the  better, 
or  the  happier  for  it?  It  would  not  have  been  difficult 
to  find  those  who  were  more  debauched,  and  more 
miserable ; and  it  was  melancholy  to  reflect  that  many 
might  have  there  commenced  a career  of  gambling,  of 
prostitution,  or  of  some  other  vice,  which  would  end  in 
their  utter  ruin.  While  these  results  could  hardly  fail  to 
occur,  nothing  like  a sermon  was  delivered  during  the 
whole  ten  days,  or  any  effort  made  to  instruct  or  mo- 
ralize the  community. 

The  evening  and  morning  scenes  that  may  be  en- 
joyed at  Para  are  indescribably  beautiful.  At  night 
all  is  still,  save  the  occasional  rustling  of  a balmy 
breeze;  and  the  imagination  must  be  vivid  that  can 
picture  to  itself  more  loveliness  than  is  exhibited  when 
the  moon  walks  forth  in  her  splendor.  The  dark  luxu- 
riant foliage,  crowning  hundreds  of  spreading  trees, 
is  burnished  with  a mellow  lustre  too  exquisite  for 

Vol.  II.— 38 


298 


EVENING  AND  MORNING. 


words  to  portray;  while  the  waving  plumes  of  numer- 
ous palm  trees,  glancing  their  reflections  downward 
upon  the  beholder,  add  to  the  charms  of  the  scenery. 
The  opening  blossoms  of  many  fruit  trees  and  humbler 
flowers,  load  the  air  with  a fragrance  which  is  none 
the  less  grateful  from  not  being  mingled,  as  in  some 
of  the  larger  and  more  city-like  towns,  with  offensive 
etHuvia.  The  blandness  of  the  evening  air  is  in  de- 
lightful contrast  to  the  rigors  of  the  noonday  sun,  and 
an  occasional  breeze  invigorates  the  system,  after  either 
the  confinement  or  the  exposure  of  the  day.  Although 
in  the  course  of  the  night  there  falls  a copious  dew, 
yet  so  balmy  and  healthful  is  the  atmosphere,  that  there 
is  no  dread  of  exposing  to  it  the  most  delicate  consti- 
tution. This  is  the  climate  that  of  all  others  I would 
seek  as  a relief  to  enfeebled  health,  and  especially  for 
pectoral  affections. 

A morning  scene  is  scarcely  inferior  in  effect.  I 
sometimes  went  out  to  enjoy  it  long  before  the  mild 
radiance  of  the  moon  was  lost  in  the  more  powerful 
beams  of  the  king  of  day,  who,  at  his  appointed  time, 
rose  through  a brief  twilight,  and  hastened  on  his  ef- 
fulgent course  through  the  cloudless  ether.  The  lira- 
zilians  are  generally  early  risers,  and  it  may  be 
remarked,  that  in  their  towns  generally,  the  foreign 
houses  are  those  latest  opened  for  business.  Never- 
theless, there  are  few  who  walk  abroad  for  the  plea- 
sure or  exercise  of  walking.  Almost  the  only  persons 
met  in  my  morning  walks  at  Para  where  the  negroes 
and  Indians,  in  countless  numbers,  going  with  earthen 
jars  upon  their  heads  for  water. 

There  is  no  artificial  fountain  in  the  whole  city. 


WATER  CARRIERS. 


299 


The  only  source  of  drinking  water  is  a spring  on  the 
eastern  side  of  the  town.  Jars  of  this  water  are  some- 
times carried  around  on  horseback  for  sale,  to  accom- 
modate those  who  do  not  keep  a large  supply  of 
servants.  A few  wells  in  the  suburbs,  together  with 
the  current  of  the  river,  furnish  water  for  washing,  and 
similar  purposes. 


AMAZONIA. 


"00 


CHAPTER  XVII. 

Amazonia. — Its  Discovery. — El  Dorado. — Gongalo  Pizarro. — His  Ex- 
pedition.— Cruelties. — Sufferings. — Desertion  of  Orellana. — His  De- 
scent of  the  River. — Fable  of  the  Amazons. — Fate  of  the  Adven- 
turer.— Name  of  the  River. — Settlement  of  the  Country. — Successive 
Expeditions  up  and  down  the  Amazon. — Sufferings  of  Madame 
Godin. — Present  State. — Steam  Navigation. — History. — Revolution 
of  1823. — Prison  Ship. — Disorders  of  1835. — Result  of  Early  Cruel- 
ties.— Religion  and  Education. — The  Bible  in  Pari. 

We  shall  now  enter  upon  some  notices  of  Amazonia, 
as  the  interior  of  the  great  province  of  Para  is  often 
appropriately  called.  No  portion  of  the  earth  involves 
a greater  degree  of  physical  interest.  Its  central  po- 
sition upon  the  equator,  its  vast  extent,  its  unlimited 
resources,  its  mammoth  rivers,  and  the  romance  that 
still  lingers  in  its  name  and  history,  are  all  peculiar. 
Three  hundred  years  have  elapsed  since  this  region 
was  discovered,  but  down  to  the  present  day  two-thirds 
of  it  remain  uncivilized,  and  almost  unexplored. 

Indeed,  few  persons  save  the  Indians,  and  the  slave 
hunters  who  once  pursued  them,  have  even  penetrated 
its  remote  sections,  or  seen  any  parts  of  it,  save  the 
banks  of  navigable  rivers.  The  circumstances  of  its 
discovery  will  ever  be  considered  remarkable.  It  was 
about  the  middle  of  the  sixteenth  century  when  the 
fable  of  El  Dorado  filled  the  public  mind  of  Europe. 
The  existence  of  a new  world  was  then  fully  demon- 
strated, and  the  leaven  of  desire  for  its  undeveloped 
treasures  had  spread  from  court  to  camp,  from  princes 
to  beggars,  until  the  whole  mass  of  society  was  in  a 


GONZALO  PIZARRO. 


301 


ferment.  Avarice,  personified  under  the  garb  of  ad- 
venture, bestrode  the  ocean.  Scarcely  did  her  footsteps 
touch  the  shores  of  the  new  world,  ere  they  were  bathed 
in  blood.  She  did  not  pause  to  complete  her  work  of 
desolation  in  the  fair  islands  of  the  Caribbean,  until 
after  she  had  disturbed  the  sacra  penetralia  of  the  con- 
tinent. She  caused  the  din  of  arms  to  resound  in 
primeval  forest§  and  aboriginal  cities.  She  scaled  the 
Cordilleras,  and  laid  waste  savannahs  upon  both  the 
Atlantic  and  the  Pacific  shores. 

Among  the  blood-thirsty  and  cruel  men  who  stood 
forth  as  leaders  in  the  work  of  conquest  and  plunder, 
Gonzalo  Pizarro,  the  brother  and  associate  of  the 
conqueror  of  Peru,  was  second  to  few  if  any.  His 
talents  may  have  been  less,  but  his  daring  and  cruelty 
were  greater.  In  1541  this  adventurer  set  out  from 
Quito,  with  an  army  of  three  hundred  soldiers,  and 
four  thousand  Indians  to  serve  them  as  bearers  of  bur- 
dens, with  the  design  of  discovering  the  land  of  gold. 
This  was  an  imaginary  kingdom,  shaped  out  of  the 
half-comprehended  tales  of  the  persecuted  Indians,  and 
exaggerated  by  the  most  extravagant  fancies. 

This  fabulous  kingdom  received  a name  from  the 
fashion  of  its  monarch,  who  was  said,  in  order  to  wear 
a more  magnificent  attire  than  any  other  potentate  in 
the  world,  to  put  on  a daily  coating  of  gold  dust.  His 
body  was  anointed  every  morning  with  a costly  and 
fragrant  gum,  to  which  the  gold  dust  adhered  when 
blown  over  him  by  a tube.  In  this  barbaric  attire  the 
Spaniards  denominated  him  El  Dorado,  the  Gilded 
King.  No  fictions  concerning  this  monarch  or  his 
kingdom  were  too  extravagant  for  credence.  He  was 
generally  located  in  the  grand  city  of  Manoa,  in  which 

2 A 


302 


HIS  CRUELTIES. 


no  fewer  than  three  thousand  workmen  were  employed 
in  the  silversmiths’  street.  The  columns  of  his  palace 
were  described  as  of  porphyry  and  alabaster,  the  throne 
was  ivory,  and  the  steps  leading  to  it  were  of  gold. 
Others  built  the  palace  of  white  stone,  and  ornamented 
it  with  golden  suns,  and  moons  of  silver — while  living 
lions,  fastened  by  chains  of  gold,  guarded  its  entrance. 
With  day-dreams  like  these  dancing  bbfore  the  minds 
of  commanders  and  soldiers,  the  army  of  Pizarro  set 
out,  cherishing  the  highest  anticipations. 

In  proceeding  eastward  from  Quito,  they  were 
obliged  to  cut  their  way  through  forests,  to  climb 
mountains,  and  to  contend  with  hostile  tribes  of  Indians. 

V 

Every  tribe  with  which  they  met  was  interrogated 
about  El  Dorado,  and  when  unable  to  give  any  intelli- 
gence of  it,  they  were  put  to  torture ; some  were  even 
burnt  alive,  and  others  were  torn  to  pieces  by  blood- 
hounds, which  the  Spaniards  had  trained  to  feed  on 
human  flesh. 

The  effects  of  this  dreadful  cruelty  returned  upon 
the  heads  of  its  perpetrators  with  a terrible  vengeance. 
As  the  tidings  of  their  approach  spread  from  tribe  to 
tribe,  the  poor  natives  learned  to  flatter  their  hopes 
and  send  them  along.  The  rains  came  on,  and  lasting 
for  months,  rotted  the  garments  from  the  bodies  of  the 
soldiers,  who  could  neither  make  nor  find  a shelter. 
After  they  had  climbed  giddy  precipices,  from  which 
some  of  them  fell  and  were  dashed  to  pieces,  they 
had  to  ford  flooded  plains,  and  wade  through  lagoons 
and  marshes.  At  length  their  provisions  were  ex- 
hausted, and  they  began  to  feed  upon  their  dogs.  The 
sick  multiplied,  so  that  they  were  obliged  to  build  a 
brigantine  in  which  to  carry  them.  This  was  a hercu- 


DESERTION  OF  ORELLANA. 


303 


lean  task  for  soldiers  to  perform,  especially  without 
the  requisite  implements.  Before  it  was  accomplished 
they  had  to  slaughter  their  horses  for  food.  Their 
troubles  continued  and  even  increased;  still,  with  death 
staring  them  in  the  face,  Pizarro  continued  to  seize 
prisoners,  and  put  them  in  irons  when  he  supposed  they 
desired  to  escape.  What  an  exhibition  of  cruelty  as  a 
ruling  passion  ! When  they  at  length  stood  upon  the 
banks  of  the  river  Napo,  not  less  than  one  thousand 
of  the  Peruvians  had  perished. 

The  commander  now  heard  of  a larger  river  into 
which  this  emptied,  and  wras  told  that  the  country  sur- 
rounding the  junction  was  fertile,  and  abounding  in 
provisions.  He  therefore  determined  to  dispatch  the 
vessel  with  fifty  men  to  procure  supplies  for  the  rest. 
Francisco  de  Orellana,  a knight  of  Truxillo,  was  put 
in  command  of  this  expedition.  The  stream  carried 
them  rapidly  downward  through  an  uninhabited  and 
desert  country.  When  they  had  descended  about 
three  hundred  miles,  the  question  was  started  whether 
they  should  not  abandon  the  idea  of  returning.  They 
had  not  found  food  sufficient  for  themselves,  and  how 
could  they  succor  the  army?  Besides,  how  could  they 
ascend  against  the  current  in  their  enfeebled  state  ? It 
would  only  be  to  perish  with  the  rest.  They  might  as 
well  continue  their  descent,  for  “rivers  to  the  ocean 
run,”  and  there  was  some  chance  that  they  might  in 
this  way  not  only  save  their  lives,  but  also  immortalize 
their  names  by  new  discoveries.  Orellana  urged  these 
considerations  with  so  much  plausibility,  that  all  con- 
sented save  two,  a Dominican  friar  and  a young  knight 
of  Badajoz,  who  contended  against  the  plan  as  treache- 
rous and  cruel.  Orellana  disposed  of  this  objection  by 


304 


DESCENT  OF  THE  RIVER. 


setting  the  knight  on  shore,  to  perish  or  return  to  the 
army  as  lie  best  could.  The  friar  became  an  easy  con- 
vert to  the  new  scheme,  and  thenceforward  took  a 
prominent  part  in  it.  Orellana  renounced  the  commis- 
sion he  had  received  from  Pizarro,  and  received  an 
election  from  his  men  as  their  commander,  so  that 
he  might  make  discoveries  in  his  own  name,  and  not 
under  delegated  authority  in  the  name  of  another. 

It  was  on  the  last  day  of  December,  1541,  that  this 
adventurous  voyage  was  commenced,  after  mass  had 
been  said  by  the  Dominican.  Their  prospects  were 
gloomy  enough.  Their  stock  of  provisions  was  wholly 
exhausted,  and  they  were  forced  to  boil  the  soles  of 
their  shoes  and  their  leathern  girdles,  in  hope  of  deriv- 
ing nourishment  from  them.  At  the  end  of  eight  days, 
when  they  had  nearly  given  up  every  hope  of  life,  they 
were  joyfully  surprised  by  hearing  the  tap  of  an  Indian 
drum.  They  soon  discovered  a village,  surrounded 
with  Indians  prepared  to  defend  it.  The  Spaniards 
were  too  hungry  to  negotiate.  Impelled  by  the  despe- 
ration of  famine,  they  attacked  amlrouted  the  Indians, 
finding  at  the  same  time  what  they  most  desired,  a sup- 
ply of  food.  While  they  tarried  to  enjoy  the  fruits  of 
their  victory,  the  Indians  returned,  and  found  them  in 
a more  peaceful  mood.  Orellana  received  them  cour- 
teously, and  having  obtained  their  consent  to  what  they 
knew  nothing  about,  amused  them  with  the  ceremony 
of  taking  possession  of  the  country  for  the  crown  of 
Castile. 

It  was  now  necessary  to  build  a better  vessel.  This 
being  accomplished  with  great  difficulty  and  delay,  they 
resumed  their  voyage.  Sometimes  they  met  with  a 
kind  reception  from  the  Indians,  but  more  generally 


THE  AMAZONS.  305 

they  had  to  fight  their  way  with  great  losses,  and  im- 
minent danger  of  complete  destruction. 

It  was  in  the  month  of  June  that,  during  a battle 
with  a hostile  tribe,  they  discovered  what  they  reported 
to  be  Amazons.  Friar  Gaspar,  the  Dominican,  affirms 
that  ten  or  twelve  of  these  women  fought  at  the  head 
of  the  tribe  which  was  subject  to  their  authority.  He 
described  them  as  very  tall  and  large  limbed,  having 
a white  complexion,  and  long  hair  platted  and  banded 
around  their  head.  Their  only  article  of  dress  was  a 
cincture,  but  they  were  armed  with  bows  and  arrows. 
The  men  fought  desperately,  because,  if  they  deserted, 
they  would  be  beaten  to  death  by  these  female  tyrants; 
but  when  the  Spaniards  had  slain  some  seven  or  eight, 
of  these  latter,  the  Indians  fled.  These  stories  arc; 
generally  believed  to  have  been  deliberate  falsehoods, 
fabricated  with  the  idea  of  giving  consequence  to  the 
voyage.  The  existence,  however,  of  a powerful  tribe 
of  Amazons  in  that  portion  of  South  America,  was  a 
subject  of  deliberate  inquiry  and  grave  discussion  for 
at  least  two  centuries.  Condamine  and  others  favored 
the  opinion  that  there  had  been  such  a people,  of  which 
some  remnants  remained  till  about  the  time  of  Ore- 
llana, soon  after  which,  they  became  extinct  by  amal- 
gamation with  surrounding  tribes;  but  it  is  very  evident 
to  one  who  scans  the  testimony  on  these  points,  that 
vague  traditions  and  unsupported  conjectures  form  the 
principal  basis  of  these  opinions.  The  Spanish  histo- 
rian Herrera  has  given  detailed  accounts  of  the  adven- 
tures of  Orellana,  compiled  from  his  own  statements, 
endorsed  by  his  veracious  chronicler  Friar  Gaspar. 
They  contain,  however,  but  little  authentic  information. 
That  which  otherwise  might  be  depended  upon,  is 

Vol.  II.— 39  2 a 2 


306 


FATE  OF  THE  ADVENTURER. 


rendered  doubtful  by  the  absurdities  with  which  it  is 
mingled. 

In  the  course  of  seven  months  they  reached  the 
ocean.  After  some  repairs  made  upon  their  vessels, 
they  sailed  out  of  the  great  river  during  the  month  of 
August.  Fortunately  for  them,  the  weather  was  very 
mild.  They  endeavored  to  keep  along  at  a safe  dis- 
tance from  the  northern  coast,  not  knowing  where  they 
were.  Finally,  on  the  1 1th  of  September,  they  made 
the  island  of  Cubagua.  Orellana  proceeded  thence 
to  Spain,  to  give  an  account  of  his  discoveries  in 
person. 

The  excuse  he  presented  for  deserting  Pizarro  was 
accepted  ; and  on  solicitation,  he  received  a grant  of  the 
conquest  of  the  regions  he  had  discovered.  He  had  but 
little  difficulty  in  raising  funds  or  enlisting  adventurers 
for  his  expedition.  It  however  proved  disastrous. 
Ilis  fleet  arrived  out  in  1544;  but  amid  the  labyrinth 
of  channels  at  the  mouth  of  the  river,  it  was  impossible 
to  find  the  main  branch.  After  a month  or  two  spent 
in  beating  about,  without  being  able  to  ascend  the  river 
or  to  accomplish  any  important  object,  Orellana  suc- 
cumbed to  his  misfortunes,  and,  like  many  of  his  men, 
sickened  and  died. 

Mr.  Southey  says,  that  “as  a discoverer,  he  surpass- 
ed any  of  his  countrymen ; and  if,  as  a conqueror,  he 
was  unfortunate,  it  is  now  the  happier  for  him,  having 
never  had  the  opportunity  of  committing  those  atroci- 
ties which  blackened  the  characters  of  many  of  his 
contemporaries.”  Mr.  Southey,  indeed,  had  so  much 
respect  for  his  memory,  that  he  made  an  effort  in  his 
history  to  restore  the  name  of  Orellana  to  the  great 
river.  He  discarded  Maranon,  as  having  too  much 


NAME  OF  THE  RIVER. 


307 


resemblance  to  Maranham  ;*  and  Amazon,  as  being’ 
founded  upon  fiction,  and  at  the  same  time  inconve- 
nient. Accordingly,  in  his  map,  and  in  all  bis  refer- 
ences to  the  great  river,  he  denominates  it  Orellana. 

This  decision  of  the  poet  laureate  of  Great  Britain 
has  not  proved  authoritative  in  Brazil.  O Amazonas 
is  the  universal  appellation  of  the  great  river  among 
those  who  float  upon  its  waters,  and  who  live  upon  its 
banks.  Hence,  we  also  prefer  to  call  it  the  Amazon, 
having  no  especial  sympathy  for  the  adventurer  who, 
in  order  to  give  eclat  to  his  discoveries,  invents  a fable 
that  ultimately  throws  his  name  quite  into  the  shade. 

Para,  the  aboriginal  name  of  this  river,  was  more 
appropriate  than  any  other.  It  signifies  the  Father  of 
waters.  This  name,  as  the  reader  is  aware,  is  now 
applied  to  the  province  through  which  that  river  runs, 
and  to  its  capital.  The  term  Para  river  also  designates 
the  southern,  in  opposition  to  the  northern  principal 
mouth  of  the  Amazon. 

About  seventy  years  after  the  events  above  narrated, 
the  Portuguese  began  to  settle  in  Para,  advancing  from 
Maranham.  In  161G,  Francisco  Caldeira,  the  first 
chief  captain,  laid  the  foundations  of  the  present  city 
of  Para,  under  the  protection  of  Nossa  Senhora  de  Be- 
lem. In  1637,  another  party  descended  the  Amazon 
from  Quito.  It  was  composed  of  two  Franciscan  friars 
and  six  soldiers,  w ho  had  been  sent  on  a mission  to  the 
Indians  upon  the  frontiers  of  Peru.  The  mission  prov- 
ed unsuccessful.  Some  of  the  missionaries  grew  weary 
and  returned ; others  persisted,  until  the  savages 

* Both  words  have  evidently  a common  origin,  being  derived  from 
the  Portuguese  mare  the  sea,  and  nao  not,  not  the  sea,  as  a great  river 
near  its  mouth  appears  to  be. 


308 


EXPEDITION  TO  QUITO. 


attacked  and  murdered  the  commander  of  their  escort 
of  soldiers,  when  all  dispersed.  Those  who  were  dis- 
heartened at  the  prospect  of  the  dreadful  journey  hack 
to  Quito,  committed  themselves  to  the  waters,  as  Ore- 
llana had  done  nearly  a century  before.  They  reached 
Belem  in  safety,  hut  so  stupefied  with  fear  as  to  be 
unable  to  give  any  satisfactory  account  of  what  they 
had  seen.  It  was  enough  for  them  to  have  escaped 
from  the  horrid  cannibals,  through  whose  midst  they 
had  passed. 

In  the  same  year,  the  first  expedition  for  the  ascent 
of  the  Amazon  was  organized.  It  was  commanded  by 
Pedro  Teixcira,  and  was  composed  of  seventy  soldiers, 
twelve  hundred  native  rowers  and  bowmen,  besides 
females  and  slaves,  who  increased  the  number  to  about 
two  thousand.  They  embarked  in  forty-five  canoes. 
The  strength  of  the  opposing  current,  and  the  difficulty 
of  finding  their  course  amid  the  labyrinthian  channels 
of  the  river,  rendered  their  enterprise  one  of  unparal- 
leled toil.  Many  of  the  Indians  deserted,  and  nothing 
but  unwearied  perseverance  and  great  tact,  enabled 
Teixeira  to  keep  the  rest.  After  a voyage  of  eight 
months,  he  reached  the  extent  of  navigation.  Leaving 
most  of  his  men  with  his  canoes  at  this  place,  he  con- 
tinued his  journey  overland  to  Quito,  where  he  was 
received  with  distinguished  honors.  He  was  accom- 
panied on  his  return  by  several  friars,  whose  business 
it  was  to  record  the  incidents  and  observations  of  the 
voyage.  A considerable  amount  of  authentic  informa- 
tion was  thus  collected  and  published  to  the  world. 
The  party  reached  Belem  in  December,  1739,  amid 
great  rejoicings.  After  this,  voyages  upon  the  Ama- 
zon became  more  common. 


MADAME  GODIN. 


309 


In  1745,  M.  La  Condamine,  a French  academician, 
descended  from  Quito,  and  constructed  a map  of  the 
river,  based  upon  a series  of  astronomical  observations. 
His  memoir,  read  before  the  Royal  Academy  on  his 
return,  remains  to  this  day  a very  interesting  work. 
In  modern  times,  the  most  celebrated  voyages  down 
the  Amazon  have  been  described  at  length  by  those 
who  accomplished  them,  e.  g.  Spix  and  Martius,  Lis- 
ter Mawe,  and  Lieutenant  Smyth. 

The  expeditions  to  which  I have  alluded,  have  gene- 
rally been  prosperous,  and  not  attended  with  any  pecu- 
liar misfortunes.  Not  so  with  every  voyage  that  has 
been  undertaken  upon  these  interminable  waters.  The 
sufferings  of  Madame  Godin  des  Odonnais,  have  hardly 
a parallel  on  record.  The  husband  of  this  lady  was 
an  astronomer,  associated  with  M.  Condamine.  He 
had  taken  his  family  with  him  to  reside  in  Quito,  but 
being  ordered  to  Cayenne,  was  obliged  to  leave  them 
behind.  Circumstances  transpired  to  prevent  his  re- 
turning for  a period  of  sixteen  years,  and  when  finally 
he  made  the  attempt  to  ascend  the  Amazon,  he  was 
taken  sick  and  could  not  proceed.  All  messages  that 
he  attempted  to  send  his  absent  wife,  failed  of  their 
destination.  In  the  meantime  a rumor  reached  her, 
that  an  expedition  had  been  dispatched  to  meet  her  at 
some  of  the  missions  on  the  upper  Amazon.  She  im- 
mediately resolved  to  set  out  on  the  perilous  journey. 
She  was  accompanied  by  her  family,  including  three 
females,  two  children,  and  two  or  three  men,  one  of 
whom  was  her  brother.  They  surmounted  the  Andes 
and  passed  down  the  tributary  streams  of  the  Amazon 
without  serious  difficulties;  but  the  farther  they  enter- 
ed into  the  measureless  solitudes  that  lay  before  them, 


310 


HER  SUFFERINGS. 


the  more  their  troubles  increased.  The  missions  were 
found  in  a state  of  desolation,  under  the  ravages  of 
the  small-pox.  The  village  where  they  expected  to 
find  Indians' to  conduct  them  down  the  river,  had  but 
two  inhabitants  surviving : these  poor  creatures  could 
not  aid  them,  and  they  were  left  without  guides  or 
canoe-men.  Ignorant  of  navigation,  and  unaccus- 
tomed to  either  toil  or  danger,  their  misery  was  now 
beyond  description.  Their  canoe,  in  drifting  on  the 
current,  filled  with  water,  and  they  barely  escaped  with 
life  and  a few  provisions.  They  managed  to  construct 
a raft,  but  this  was  soon  torn  to  pieces  upon  a snag. 
The  forlorn  company  again  escape  to  the  shore,  and, 
as  their  only  alternative,  attempt  to  make  their  way 
on  foot.  Without  map  or  compass,  they  know  not 
whither  they  go.  In  attempting  to  follow  the  windings 
of  the  stream  they  become  bewildered,  and  finally 
plunge  into  the  depths  of  the  forest.  Wild  fruits  and 
succulent  plants  now  furnish  them  their  only  food. 
Weakened  by  hunger,  they  soon  fall  victims  to  disease. 

In  a few  days  Madame  Godin,  the  sole  survivor,  stood 
surrounded  by  eight  dead  bodies!  Imagine  the  horror 
that  overwhelmed  her,  as  she  saw  one  after  another  of 
her  friends  and  family  in  the  agonies  of  death!  In  the 
desperation  of  the  hour  she  attempted  to  bury  them,  but 
found  it  impossible.  After  two  days  spent  in  mourn- 
ing over  the  dead,  she  roused  up  with  a determination 
to  make  another  effort  to  seek  her  long-lost  husband. 
She  was  now  nearly  three  thousand  miles  from  the 
ocean,  without  food,  and  with  her  delicate  feet  lacerated 
by  thorns.  Taking  the  shoes  of  one  of  the  dead  men, 
she  started  upon  her  dreary  way.  What  phantoms 
now  torture  her  imagination,  and  people  the  wilder- 


PRESENT  STATE. 


311 


ness  with  frightful  monsters!  But  she  wanders  on. — 
Days  of  wretchedness  and  nights  of  horror  ensue. — At 
length,  on  the  ninth  day,  she  heard  the  noise  of  a canoe, 
and  running  to  the  river  side,  she  was  taken  up  by  a 
party  of  Indians.  Suffice  it  to  say,  that  they  conducted 
her  to  one  of  the  missions,  from  which,  after  long  de- 
lays and  great  exposure,  she  was  finally  conveyed  down 
the  Amazon  and  restored  to  her  husband,  after  nine- 
teen years’  separation.  They  returned  to  France  to- 
gether and  spent  the  remnant  of  their  days  in  retire- 
ment ; but  Madame  G.  never  fully  recovered  from  the 
effects  of  her  fright  and  sufferings. 

Even  at  this  day,  the  traveler  upon  the  waters  of 
the  Amazon,  above  Para,  finds  himself  in  a perfectly 
wild  and  uncultivated  region.  He  will  scarcely  see 
fifty  houses  in  three  hundred  miles.  There  are  but 
few  settlements  directly  on  the  river.  Most  of  the 
villages  are  on  the  tributary  streams  and  lguarapes, 
or  bayous.  The  houses  universally  have  mud  floors 
and  thatched  roofs.  I saw  a fellow-countryman  at 
Para,  who  had  visited  Brazil  for  his  health,  and  having 
to  a great  degree  recovered,  he  was  induced  to  make 
a voyage  up  the  great  river.  The  best  vessel  in 
which  he  could  procure  a passage  was  a miserable 
trading  smack.  The  inconveniences  he  suffered  on 
board,  together  with  the  lack  of  fresh  provisions  and 
suitable  accommodations  when  he  went  on  shore, 
brought  upon  him  a renewed  and  aggravated  attack 
of  disease.  He  was  fortunate  enough  to  obtain  a pas- 
sage down  in  a Brazilian  war-schooner;  but  he  only 
survived  a few  months. 

Notwithstanding  all  the  beautiful  theories  respecting 
steam  navigation  on  the  waters  of  the  Amazon  and  its 


312 


STEAM  NAVIGATION. 


tributaries,  nothing  has  yet  been  accomplished  deserv- 
ing of  mention.  As  far  back  as  the  year  1827,  an  as- 
sociation, called  the  South  American  Steamboat  Com- 
pany, was  organized  in  New  York,  with  the  express 
design  of  promoting  that  navigation.  It  owed  its  ori- 
gin to  the  suggestion  of  the  Brazilian  government 
through  its  charge  d’affaires,  Mr.  Rebello,  resident  in 
the  United  States,  who  stipulated  decided  encourage- 
ments, and  the  grant  of  special  privileges  on  the  part 
of  His  Majesty  Hon  Pedro  I.  A steamboat  was  fitted 
out  and  sent  to  Para,  and  other  heavy  expenses  were 
incurred  by  the  Company;  but  through  a lack  of  co- 
operation on  the  part  of  Brazil,  the  whole  enterprise 
proved  a failure.  Claims  for  indemnification  to  a large 
amount  have  long  been  pending  before  the  Brazilian 
government,  with  but  little  prospect  of  success. 

Within  a year  or  two  past,  small  government  steam- 
ers have  two  or  three  times  been  sent  up  the  Amazon 
as  far  as  the  river  Negro.  Such  voyages  will  doubt- 
less he  repeated  at  intervals,  and  they  will  probably 
suffice  for  steam  navigation  on  the  Amazon  for  many 
years  to  come.  The  globe  does  not  elsewhere  present 
such  a splendid  theatre  for  the  steam  enterprise.  Not 
only  is  the  Amazon  navigable  for  at  least  two  thousand 
miles,  hut  the  Tocantins,  the  Chingu,  the  Tapajos,  the 
Madeira,  and  the  Negro,  are  unitedly  navigable  several 
thousand  more. 

All  these  rivers  flow  through  the  richest  soil  and  the 
most  luxurious  vegetation  in  the  world.  But  they  all 
seem  destined  to  flow  on  for  a long  time  to  come  with- 
out having  their  waters  disturbed,  unless  it  be  accident- 
ally, by  any  other  craft  than  the  lumbering  canoes  that 
now  float  upon  their  current.  A denser,  and  a different 


HISTORY. 


313 


population  must  overspread  their  banks,  and  lay  open 
their  resources  to  the  reach  of  commerce,  before  steam 
navigation  can  be  profitably  sustained  upon  the  Ama- 
zonian waters. 

The  general  history  of  Para  is  somewhat  peculiar  to 
itself.  So  far  removed  from  the  seat  of  both  the  colo- 
nial and  the  imperial  government  to  which  it  has  be- 
longed, its  rulers  have  always  had  a great  scope  for 
their  authority,  as  well  as  their  ambition.  In  no  part 
of  Brazil  have  so  great  cruelties  been  practised  against 
the  Indians ; and  in  no  part  have  they  been  so  fear- 
fully revenged. 

We  have  already  mentioned,  that  the  capital  was 
founded  in  1616.  On  consulting  the  most  voluminous 
work  extant  upon  the  history  of  the  province,  we  find 
that  the  principal  events  recorded  for  the  ensuing  two 
hundred  years,  are  the  arrivals  of  bishops,  and  the 
erection  of  churches;  the  arrival  and  expulsion  of  dif- 
ferent kinds  of  monks ; together  with  the  successive 
changes  of  the  captains  and  governors  general. 

In  1747,  Brazilian  coins  of  gold,  silver,  and  copper, 
were  first  introduced — the  circulating  medium  having 
consisted  of  balls  of  cotton  and  articles  of  domestic 
goods ; being  more  complicated  than  the  salt  currency 
of  Piauhy. 

In  1758,  a commercial  company  was  organized  un- 
der the  protection  of  the  Portuguese  government.  On 
its  dissolution  twenty  years  after,  it  was  found  to  have 
accomplished,  among  other  things,  the  introduction  of 
twelve  thousand  five  hundred  and  eighty-seven  African 
slaves.  Twenty  years  after  this,  the  duties  were 
thrown  off  of  all  slaves  and  slaving  vessels  that  should 
come  to  Para. 

Vol.  II.— 40 


2 B 


314 


REVOLUTION  OF  1823. 


At  the  time  of  the  revolution  of  independence,  in 
1823,  Para,  like  most  of  the  other  provinces,  was  for 
a time  held  by  the  Portuguese  authorities.  On  the 
arrival  of  Lord  Cochrane  at  Maranham,  he  dispatched 
one  of  his  officers,  Captain  Grenfell,  with  a brig  of  war 
to  take  possession  of  Para.  This  officer  had  recourse 
to  a stratagem  which,  although  successful,  was  little 
more  creditable  to  his  bravery  than  his  integrity. 

Having  arrived  near  the  city,  he  summoned  the 
place  to  surrender,  asserting  that  Lord  Cochrane  was 
at  anchor  below,  and  in  case  of  opposition,  would  en- 
force his  authority  with  a vengeance.  Intimidated  by 
this  threat,  the  city  hastened  to  swear  allegiance  to  the 
throne  of  Don  Pedro  I.,  and  Grenfell  managed  to  have 
obnoxious  individuals  expelled,  before  his  deceit  was 
found  out.  Opposition,  however,  soon  sprang  up — a 
party  was  organized,  with  the  intent  of  deposing  the 
provincial  junta.  This  body,  of  course,  claimed  the 
protection  of  Grenfell.  He  immediately  landed  with 
his  men,  and  joining  the  troops  of  the  authorities,  easily 
succeeded  in  quelling  the  insurrection.  A large  num- 
ber of  prisoners  were  taken,  and  five  ringleaders  in 
the  revolt  were  shot  in  the  public  square.  Thence  re- 
turning on  board,  he  received,  the  same  evening,  an 
order  from  the  president  of  the  junta,  to  prepare  a 
vessel  large  enough  to  hold  two  hundred  prisoners.  A 
ship  of  six  hundred  tons  burden  was  accordingly  se- 
lected. It  afterwards  appeared,  that  the  number  of 
prisoners  actually  sent  on  board  by  the  president  was 
two  hundred  and  fifty-three.  These  men,  in  the  ab- 
sence of  Captain  Grenfell,  were  forced  into  the  hold  of 
the  prison-ship,  and  placed  under  a guard  of  fifteen 
Brazilian  soldiers. 


PRISON  SHIP. 


315 


“ Crowded  until  almost  unable  to  breathe,  and  suf- 
fering alike  from  heat  and  thirst,  the  poor  wretches 
attempted  to  force  their  wav  on  deck,  but  were  re- 
pulsed by  the  guard,  who,  after  firing  upon  them  and 
fastening  down  the  hatchway,  threw  a piece  of  ord- 
nance across  it,  and  effectually  debarred  all  egress. 
The  stifling  sensation  caused  by  this  exclusion  of  air 
drove  the  suffering  crowd  to  utter  madness,  and  many 
are  said  to  have  lacerated  and  mangled  each  other  in 
the  most  horrible  manner.  Suffocation,  with  all  its 
agonies,  succeeded.  The  aged  and  the  young,  the 
strong  and  feeble,  the  assailant  and  his  antagonist,  all 
sank  down  exhausted  and  in  the  agonies  of  death.  In 
the  hope  of  alleviating  their  sufferings,  a stream  of 
water  was  at  length  directed  into  the  hold,  and  towards 
morning  the  tumult  abated,  but  from  a cause  which 
had  not  been  anticipated.  Of  all  the  two  hundred  and 
fifty-three,  four  only  were  found  alive,  who  had  escaped 
destruction  by  concealing  themselves  behind  a water- 
butt.” — Armitage , vol.  ii.  p.  108. 

This  dreadful  scene  is,  perhaps,  unparalleled  in  his- 
tory. Its  only  mitigation  consisted  in  its  having  been 
caused  by  carelessness  and  ignorance,  without  “ intent 
to  kill.”  It  has,  however,  but  too  much  affinity  with 
the  treatment  of  the  prisoners  taken  and  confined  at 
the  same  place,  in  the  subsequent  civil  revolutions. 
Vast  numbers  of  these  unhappy  men  were  crowded 
into  the  prison  of  the  city  and  of  the  fort,  where  they 
were  kept,  without  hope  of  release,  until  death  set 
them  free.  Besides,  a prison-ship,  still  moored  in  front 
of  the  town,  called  the  Xin  Xin,  was  filled  to  its  utmost 
capacity.  I heard  it  estimated  that  not  less  than  three 


316 


DISORDERS  OF  1835. 


thousand  had  died  on  board  that  one  vessel  in  the 
course  of  five  or  six  years. 

The  disorders  that  broke  out  at  Para,  in  1835, 
were  disastrous  in  the  extreme.  They  first  commenced 
among  the  troops.  The  soldiers  on  guard  at  the  pa- 
lace seized  an  opportunity  favorable  to  their  designs, 
and  on  the  7th  of  January,  simultaneously  assassinated 
the  president  of  the  province,  the  commander  at  arms, 
and  the  port  captain.  A sergeant,  by  the  name  of 
Gomez,  now  assumed  the  command,  and  commenced 
an  indiscriminate  slaughter  of  the  Portuguese  resi- 
dents. After  twenty  or  thirty  reputable  shopkeepers 
had  been  killed,  these  insurgents  proceeded  to  libe- 
rate about  fifty  prisoners,  among  whom  was  Felix 
Antonio  Clemento  Malcher,  an  individual  who  had 
been  elected  a member  of  the  provisional  junta  at  the 
time  of  Grenfell’s  invasion,  but  who  was  subsequently 
arrested  as  the  instigator  of  a rebellion  at  the  Rio 
Acara.  This  Malcher  was  now  proclaimed  president ; 
and  a declaration  against  receiving  any  president  from 
Rio,  until  the  majority  of  Don  Pedro  II.,  was  formally 
made. 

No  houses  were  broken  open  on  this  occasion.  Or- 
der was  soon  restored,  and  things  remained  quiet  till 
the  19th  of  February.  At  this  time  Francisco  Pedro 
Vinagre,  the  new  commander  at  arms,  having  heard 
that  he  was  to  be  arrested  for  some  cause,  called  out 
the  soldiers  and  populace  to  attack  the  president. 
Malcher  shut  himself  up  in  the  Gastello  fort,  and  at- 
tempted to  defend  himself.  In  the  course  of  two  or 
three  days  two  hundred  men  were  killed,  and  the  pre- 
sident captured.  He  was  sent  to  the  fort  at  the  Barra, 
below  the  city,  as  if  to  be  imprisoned,  but  was  mur- 


THE  PALACE  ATTACKED. 


317 


dered  on  the  way,  undoubtedly  by  the  orders  of  Vina- 
g re,  who  was  now  supreme. 

On  the  12th  of  May  an  attempt  was  made,  under 
the  constitutional  vice-president,  Senhor  Cori'ea,  to 
take  possession  of  the  town,  by  landing  troops  from  a 
squadron  of  thirteen  vessels  of  war.  This  attempt  was 
repulsed,  and  the  vessels  dropped  down  the  river. 
Soon  after  a new  president,  Senhor  Rodriguez,  arri- 
ved from  Rio.  On  the  24th  of  June  he  landed  with  a 
body  of  two  hundred  and  fifty  troops,  the  insurgents 
having  retired  towards  the  interior.  Disorders  still 
continued  in  the  province,  and  on  the  14th  of  August 
a body  of  Indians,  led  on  by  Vinagre  and  others,  sud- 
denly descended  upon  the  capital.  They  obtained 
possession  of  the  city,  and  commenced  an  indiscrimi- 
nate massacre  of  the  whites.  The  citizens  were 
obliged  to  defend  themselves  as  they  best  could.  Vinagre 
fell  in  the  midst  of  a street  skirmish.  An  English  and 
a French  vessel  of  war,  lying  in  the  harbor,  sent  on 
shore  a body  of  marines,  but  soon  withdrew  them  on 
account  of  the  pusillanimous  conduct  of  the  president. 

The  Indians  commenced  firing  upon  the  palace  from 
the  highest  houses  of  which  they  could  get  possession, 
and  artillery  from  the  palace  attempted  to  return  the 
fire.  The  president,  however,  soon  withdrew,  and 
abandoned  the  city  to  destruction.  Many  families  suc- 
ceeded in  escaping  on  board  vessels  in  the  harbor,  but 
many  others  fell  victims  to  rapine  and  murder.  Edu- 
ardo, the  principal  leader  after  the  death  of  Vinagre, 
endeavored  to  protect  the  property  of  foreigners,  and, 
to  some  extent,  succeeded ; nevertheless,  as  fast  as 
possible  the  foreign  residents  withdrew  from  the  city, 
and  thought  themselves  fortunate  to  escape  with  their 

2b  2 


318 


ANDREA  PRESIDENT. 


lives.  The  period  that  ensued  might,  with  propriety, 
be  called  the  reign  of  terror.  But  it  was  not  long  a 
quiet  reign.  Disorders  broke  out  among  the  rebels, 
and  mutual  assassinations  became  common.  Business 
was  effectually  broken  up,  and  the  city  was  as  fast  as 
possible  reverting  back  to  a wilderness.  Tall  grass 
grewr  up  in  the  streets,  and  the  houses  rapidly  decay- 
ed. The  state  of  the  entire  province  became  similar. 
Anarchy  prevailed  throughout  its  vast  domains.  Only 
a single  town,  of  the  upper  Amazon,  maintained  its 
integrity  to  the  empire.  Lawlessness  and  violence  be- 
came the  order  of  the  day.  Plantations  were  burned, 
the  slaves  and  the  cattle  wrere  killed,  and  in  some 
large  districts  not  a white  person  was  allowed  to  sur- 
vive. 

In  May,  of  the  following  year,  General  Andrea 
arrived  as  a new  president  from  the  imperial  govern- 
ment, and  forced  his  wTay  into  the  capital.  He  pro- 
claimed martial  law,  and  by  means  of  great  firmness 
and  severity,  succeeded  in  restoring  order  to  the  pro- 
vince. It  was,  however,  at  the  cost  of  much  blood 
and  many  lives.  He  was  accused  of  tyranny  and  inhu- 
manity in  his  course  towards  the  rebels  and  prisoners, 
but  the  exigencies  of  the  case  were  great,  and  fur- 
nished apologies.  One  of  the  most  disgraceful  things 
charged  upon  him  and  his  officers,  was  the  abuse  made 
of  their  authority  in  plundering  innocent  citizens,  and 
also  in  voluntarily  protracting  the  war  so  that  their 
selfish  ends  might  be  advanced.  Certain  it  is,  that  the 
waste  of  life,  the  ruin  of  property,  and  the  declension 
of  morals,  were  all  combined  and  lamentably  con- 
tinued; and  yet  in  this  state  of  things  w’e  see  nothing 
but  the  fruits  of  that  violence  and  injury  which,  from 


RESULT  OF  EARLY  CRUELTIES.  319 

the  first  colonization  of  Para  by  the  Portuguese,  had 
been  practised  against  the  despised  Indians. 

In  addition  to  the  more  direct  consequences  of  the 
disorders,  the  salubrity  of  the  country,  and  of  the  city 
itself,  fearfully  deteriorated.  The  rapid  growth,  and 
the  equally  rapid  decay,  of  vegetable  matter,  on  the 
spots  from  which  years  of  cultivation  had  banished  it, 
brought  on  epidemics  and  other  fatal  diseases,  which 
swept  off  hundreds  of  the  people  that  survived  the 
wars.  Thus  one  of  the  richest  and  fairest  portions  of 
the  earth  was  nearly  desolated. 

It  is  only  by  slow  degrees  that  it  has  since  been 
recovering.  Nothing,  indeed,  but  the  extraordinary 
and  spontaneous  fertility  of  the  whole  region,  has  en- 
abled the  province,  in  any  considerable  degree,  to  re- 
cover its  business  relations.  Notwithstanding  all  the 
natural  beauties  so  profusely  exhibited  at  Para,  re- 
minding one  at  every  step,  and  at  every  glance,  of  the 
glorious  munificence  of  the  Creator,  there  are  but  few 
places  which  suggest  sadder  reflections  upon  the  wick- 
edness and  misery  of  man.  We  can  scarcely  point  to 
a bright  spot  in  its  history.  During  the  early  periods 
that  succeeded  its  settlement  by  Europeans,  a con- 
tinual crusade  was  carried  on  against  the  aboriginals  of 
the  soil,  for  the  purpose  of  reducing  them  to  a state 
of  servitude.  In  vain  were  the  reasoning  and  power 
of  the  Jesuits  arrayed  in  opposition  to  this  course.  In 
vain  was  African  slavery  introduced  as  its  substitute. 
The  cruel  and  sanguinary  purposes  of  the  Portuguese 
were  persevered  in.  An  innocent  and  inoffensive  peo- 
ple were  pursued  and  hunted  down  in  their  own  forests 
like  beasts  of  prey.  Thus  iniquity  triumphed,  but  a 
terrible  retribution  followed.  The  foul  passions  which 


320 


RELIGION  AND  EDUCATION. 


had  been  nurtured  in  the  persecution  of  the  Indians 
were  equally  malevolent,  when  excited  against  each 
other  by  the  common  jealousies  and  differences  of  life. 
For  a long  time  previous  to  the  outbreak  of  1835, 
assassinations  had  been  the  order  of  the  day.  Scarce- 
ly a night  passed  without  the  occurrence  of  more  or 
less.  No  man’s  life  was  secure.  Revenge  rioted  in 
blood.  This  was  too  much  the  case  in  other  parts  of 
the  country,  at  the  same  period,  but  at  Para  worse 
than  elsewhere.  Then  followed  the  dreadful  scenes 
already  described,  in  which  the  long-degraded  and 
down-trodden  Indians,  headed  by  factious  and  in- 
triguing men,  gained  the  ascendancy  in  turn,  and 
drove  the  white  population  into  exile. 

What  a waste  of  human  life  was  caused  by  these 
successive  events ! A wraste  too  that  seems  the  more 
deplorable,  from  its  occurring  in  a country  where  no- 
thing is  so  much  wanted  as  population  and  industry. 
Notwithstanding  the  restoration  and  establishment  of 
order,  yet  an  armed  soldiery  is  deemed  essential  to  its 
preservation.  At  the  same  time  the  idle  habits  and 
questionable  morals  of  a body  of  soldiers,  quartered  in 
such  a place,  have  no  favorable  bearing  upon  the  wel- 
fare of  the  community. 

The  recent  reports  of  the  presidents  of  this  pro- 
vince have  been  quite  full  and  explicit.  They  exhibit, 
however,  a most  gloomy  picture  of  the  state  of  morals, 
education,  and  religion. 

Nearly  all  the  churches  in  the  province  are  going  to 
ruin,  and  require  immense  expenditures  to  save  them. 
Out  of  ninety  parishes,  only  thirty-seven  were  supplied 
with  parish  priests.  Among  the  one  hundred  and  fifty 
thousand  wild  Indians  that  still  inhabit  the  province, 


THE  BIBLE  IN  PARA. 


321 


little  was  doing  towards  either  evangelizing  or  civiliz- 
ing them.  In  many  counties  it  was  impossible  to 
organize  a jury  competent  to  decide  upon  cases  in  civil 
and  criminal  law;  and,  in  some  populous  districts,  men 
qualified  for  the  office  of  justice  of  the  peace,  or  of 
clerk  in  a justice’s  court,  are  not  to  be  found.  Many 
of  those  who  are  appointed  justices  cannot  write  their 
names.  This  state  of  affairs  will  hardly  be  wondered 
at  when  we  observe  that,  according  to  the  statistics  of 
1842,  the  whole  province  contained  only  forty  primary 
schools,  and  four  Latin  schools,  the  latter  having  forty- 
one  pupils,  the  former  one  thousand  two  hundred  and 
forty.  Still  less  surprise  shall  we  indulge  when  one 
of  the  presidents  alluded  to  felt  himself  authorized  to 
insinuate  that  many  of  the  existing  schools  were  nearly 
useless  on  account  of  the  ignorance  of  the  teachers. 
He  remarks  with  great  point,  “ Brazil  has  two  law 
universities,  but  perhaps  the  country  would  be  better 
off  if  they  produced  fewer  lawyers  and  more  school- 
masters.” 

The  enterprise  of  circulating  Bibles  and  evangelical 
tracts,  was  not  overlooked  during  my  residence  there. 
All  providential  openings  for  doing  good  were  gladly 
embraced,  and  arrangements  were  made  to  establish 
the  Scriptures  on  sale,  with  tracts  for  gratuitous  dis- 
tribution, which  have  continued  to  exist  down  to  the 
present  time.  It  is  to  be  presumed  that  the  numerous 
copies  of  the  Scriptures,  and  scriptural  publications, 
thus  furnished  to  the  reading  community  of  Para,  have 
not  failed  to  exert  a most  happy  influence  in  promoting 
general  tranquillity  and  the  practice  of  virtue. 

Vol.  II.— 41 


322 


ROUT  TO  MATTO  GROSSO. 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 


Rout  from  Pari  to  Matto  Grosso. — From  Matto  Grosso  to  Rio  de 
Janeiro. — Name. — Extent  and  Condition  of  the  Province. — Goyaz. — 
Boundaries. — Productions. — Indians. — Mineral  Waters. — State  of  So- 
ciety.— Famine  among  the  Gold  Hunters. — Schools. — State  of  the 
Arts. — Frequency  of  Travels  in  these  Regions  compared  with  those 
on  the  Coast. — Spix  and  Martius. — Russian  Embassy. — Unhappy 
Issue. — Minus  Geraes. — Extent. — Population. — Fertility. — Mines. — 
English  Mining  Company. — Agriculture. — Lack  of  Roads. — Schools. 
— Improvements. 


Having  now  passed  along  the  coast  of  Brazil,  and 
given  some  sketches  of  each  of  the  provinces  lying 
contiguous  to  the  ocean,  it  will  be  proper  to  take  a 
rapid  survey  of  the  three  inland  provinces — Matto 
Grosso,  Goyaz,  and  Minas  Geraes. 

Matto  Grosso  may  be  reached  from  Para  by  ascend- 
ing either  the  Tocantins,  the  Xingu,  the  Tapajos,  or 
the  Madeira  rivers.  A glance  at  the  map  would  lead 
one  to  suppose  that  the  passage  of  the  Madeira  was 
not  only  the  longest,  but  also  that  which  would  he  in 
every  way  the  most  difficult.  It  is,  however,  better 
known  than  either  of  the  others,  and  is  the  only  one 
which  has  ever  been  a commercial  thoroughfare. 

The  distance  in  a right  line  from  Para  to  Villa 
Bella,  one  of  the  principal  towns  of  Matto  Grosso,  is 
about  one  thousand  miles.  Not  less  than  two  thousand 
five  hundred  miles  have  to  be  traversed  in  making  the 
passage  by  water.  In  a memoir  published  by  the  Geo- 
graphical and  Historical  Institute  of  Rio  de  Janeiro, 
we  have  a detailed  account  of  this  rout,  and  the  nume- 
rous difficulties  it  opposes  to  either  the  traveler  or  the 


ROUT  TO  MATTO  GROSSO. 


323 


merchant.  For  the  space  of  fifteen  hundred  miles  up 
the  Amazon  and  the  Madeira,  to  the  falls  of  St.  An- 
thony, there  is  nothing  in  the  way  but  a powerful  cur- 
rent. Much  of  the  country  through  which  the  last 
named  river  flows  is  very  unhealthy.  From  the  falls 
of  St.  Anthony  a succession  of  falls  and  rapids  extend 
upward  for  more  than  two  hundred  miles.  Nearly  all 
this  distance  it  is  necessary  to  transport  canoes  and 
cargoes  overland,  by  the  most  tedious  and  difficult  pro- 
cesses imaginable.  Precipices  must  be  climbed,  roads 
cut,  and  huts  built  from  time  to  time,  as  a temporary 
shelter  against  the  rains.  In  short,  three  or  four 
months  are  necessarily  consumed  on  this  part  of  the 
rout.  Once  above  this  chain  of  obstacles,  there  remain 
about  seven  hundred  miles  of  good  navigation  on  the 
Mamore  and  Guapore  rivers.  The  entire  voyage  oc- 
cupies ten  months,  when  made  by  traders  carrying 
goods.  Vast  numbers  of  Indians  and  negroes  are  re- 
quired as  oarsmen  and  bearers  of  burdens.  It  is  cus- 
tomary for  several  companies  to  associate  together, 
and  the  provisions  which  must  necessarily  be  provided 
beforehand,  occasion  great  expense  and  inconvenience. 
The  downward  voyage,  as  a matter  of  course,  would 
be  much  easier  and  quicker  performed.  Notwithstand- 
ing the  tedium  and  the  toil  of  this  long  and  dreary  pas- 
sage, it  is  generally  less  dreaded  than  the  overland 
rout  to  Rio  de  Janeiro.  On  the  latter,  an  interminable 
succession  of  mountains,  the  lack  of  any  direct  or  suit- 
able roads,  the  impossibility  of  procuring  provisions 
by  the  way,  at  least  for  great  distances,  and  the  slow 
pace  of  loaded  mules,  are  by  no  means  trifling  difficul- 
ties in  the  way  of  either  dispatch  or  pleasure.  Thus 
it  is  at  once  seen,  that  whatever  may  be  the  condition 


324 


EXTENT  OF  THE  PROVINCE. 


of  Matto  Grosso,  its  opportunities  for  intercourse  with 
the  maritime  provinces  are  by  no  means  inviting.  At 
the  same  time,  there  is  but  little  hope  of  their  improv- 
ing until  some  methods  of  shortening  distances  and 
leveling  mountains,  not  yet  heard  of,  shall  be  dis- 
covered. 

The  name  Matto  Grosso  signifies  a dense  forest,  and 
in  itself  is  no  imperfect  description  of  the  vast  territory 
to  which  it  is  applied.  The  province  is  sometimes 
called  Cuiaba,  after  a river  which  runs  through  it. 
The  bishopric  which  it  constitutes  is  known  by  that 
name  only. 

Matto  Grosso  lies  nearer  the  center  of  South  Ame- 
rica than  any  other  state  or  province.  It  is  bounded 
on  the  west  by  Peru  and  Bolivia,  and  on  the  south  by 
Paraguay  and  San  Paulo.  It  contains  over  five  hun- 
dred thousand  square  miles,  while  its  population  does 
not,  by  the  largest  estimate,  exceed  forty  thousand,  or 
one  inhabitant  for  each  area  of  twelve  square  miles. 
Sixty-six  different  tribes  of  Indians  still  exist  in  the 
province.  Most  of  these  tribes  are  in  an  entirely 
savage  state.  A few  of  them  are  on  friendly  terms 
with  the  government  and  people  of  the  province; 
others  are  decidedly  hostile,  and  omit  no  opportunity 
of  making  desolating  incursions  upon  the  cultivated 
districts.  Extending  through  seventeen  degrees  of 
latitude,  the  climate  of  this  province  is  considerably 
varied.  It  is  generally  considered  healthy.  Although 
mountainous  throughout,  it  has  no  volcanoes,  nor  any 
peaks  which  for  height  can  be  compared  w ith  those  of 
the  Andes. 

Besides  its  mountains  and  forests,  Matto  Grosso  also 
abounds  in  deep  caverns  and  majestic  waterfalls.  Two 


PRODUCTIONS. 


325 


of  its  caverns  have  been  explored  and  described  at 
some  length.  One  of  them  has  been  called  the  Grata 
das  On^as,  from  the  great  number  of  wild  beasts  that 
inhabited  it.  The  other  is  called  Gruta  do  Inferno , or 
the  Grotto  of  Hell,  from  its  resemblance  to  the  fabled 
Avernus. 

Its  soil  is  said  to  be  fertile,  but  it  almost  universally 
lacks  cultivation.  In  some  parts  considerable  attention 
is  given  to  grazing,  but  generally  speaking,  the  inha- 
bitants make  no  exertions  to  produce  any  thing  that  is 
not  requisite  for  their  own  consumption.  Indeed,  they 
do  not  always  reach  the  limit  of  their  own  necessities. 
The  province  abounds  in  gold  and  diamonds,  but  owing 
to  the  lack  of  skill  employed  in  searching  for  them,  the 
products  of  either,  for  latter  years,  have  been  very 
small.  What  is  gained  by  the  miners  and  the  garim- 
peiros,  as  the  diamond  seekers  are  called,  together 
with  small  quantities  of  ipecacuanha,  constitute  the 
whole  amount  of  exports  from  the  province.  These 
articles  are  generally  sent  to  Rio  de  Janeiro,  where 
they  suffice  to  purchase  the  few  manufactured  goods 
that  are  used  by  the  inhabitants  of  Matto  Grosso. 

The  capital  of  the  province  is  the  city  of  Cuiaba.  It 
has  a healthy  location  upon  the  Cuiaba  river.  Although 
called  a city,  it  is  in  fact  but  a village.  Its  houses  are 
nearly  all  built  of  taipa,  with  floors  of  hardened  clay 
or  brick.  The  region  immediately  surrounding  it  is 
said  to  be  so  abundant  in  gold,  that  some  grains  of  it 
may  be  found  wherever  the  earth  is  excavated.  It  is 
about  one  hundred  miles  from  the  diamond  district. 

The  first  printing  press  ever  seen  in  Matto  Grosso, 
was  procured  at  the  expense  of  the  government  in 
1838.  The  number  of  primary  schools  provided  for  by 

2 C 


326 


GOYAZ. 


the  government  is  eighteen.  By  the  latest  statistics 
eight  of  these  were  supplied  with  teachers,  having  four 
hundred  and  thirty  four  boys  on  their  lists.  The  num- 
ber of  scholars  in  private  and  Latin  schools,  at  the 
same  time,  was  about  two  hundred.  Great  inconve- 
niences were  suffered  from  the  lack  of  books,  paper,  and 
nearly  every  other  material  essential  to  elementary 
education.  In  addition  to  this  low  and  unpromising 
state  of  education,  that  of  religion  appears,  from  the 
reports  of  successive  presidents  of  the  province,  to  be 
still  worse.  There  are  but  few  churches  in  existence; 
not  more  than  half  of  these  are  supplied  with  priests; 
and  all,  without  great  expenses  in  repairing,  will  ere 
long  be  in  ruins. 

Upon  the  east  of  Matto  Grosso  borders  Goyaz,  an- 
other large  province,  very  similar  in  character  and 
location  to  the  former.  It  also  stretches  from  Para 
on  the  north,  to  San  Paulo  on  the  south.  Its  eastern 
boundaries  connect  it  with  Maranham,  Piauhy,  Per- 
nambuco, and  Minas  Geraes.  Like  most  of  the  inte- 
rior portions  of  Brazil,  Goyaz  was  discovered  and 
overrun  at  an  early  day  by  the  Paulistas,  in  their 
search  for  mines  and  slaves.  It  abounds  in  gold,  dia- 
monds, and  precious  stones,  but  its  remoteness  from 
the  sea-shore,  and  its  lack  of  roads,  canals,  and  navi- 
gable rivers,  are  great  obstacles  to  the  development  of 
its  resources. 

This  province,  which  may  be  considered  as  occupy- 
ing the  central  portion  of  Brazil,  is  not  generally 
mountainous,  although  its  surface  is  elevated  and  un- 
equal. Some  tall  virgin  forests  are  seen  upon  the 
banks  of  its  rivers,  but  the  larger  portions  of  the  pro- 
vince are  covered  with  that  species  of  low  and  stunted 


INDIANS. 


327 


shrubbery  which  prevail  in  large  portions  of  the  pro- 
vince of  Minas,  and  are  designated  by  the  terms 
catingas  and  carasquenos.  Its  soil  yields  the  usual 
productions  of  Brazil,  together  with  many  of  the  fruits 
of  southern  Europe.  Cultivation  has  progressed  far- 
ther in  Goyaz  than  in  Matto  Grosso,  though  it  is  still 
extremely  backward.  • 

The  name  of  this  province  is  derived  from  the  Goyas, 
a tribe  of  Indians  formerly  inhabiting  its  territory,  but 
now  nearly  extinct.  Various  other  tribes  still  exist 
within  its  borders,  several  of  which  cherish  a deadly 
hatred  to  the  people  who  have  invaded  their  domains 
and  disturbed  them  in  their  native  haunts.  Settlements 
are  often  laid  waste  by  the  hostile  incursions  of  these 
Indians.  A body  of  regular  troops  is  constantly  kept 
in  arms  to  resist  such  encroachments.  But  the  mis- 
chief is  generally  done,  and  the  authors  of  it  have 
escaped,  before  they  are  aware  that  danger  is  threat- 
ened. Such  is  the  stealthiness  and  fatality  of  savage 
warfare. 

Considerable  attention  has  been  excited  of  late 
years,  by  the  discovery  of  mineral  waters  in  Goyaz. 
Several  warm  springs  are  said  to  exist  in  the  south- 
western part  of  the  province.  These  waters  have  not 
been  properly  analyzed,  but  they  are  said  to  be  highly 
curative  in  cases  of  morphea,  and  other  diseases  of  the 
leprous  type.  Few  things  could  be  more  desirable  in 
Brazil  than  a plentiful  supply  of  such  healing  waters. 

We  have  some  glimpses  of  the  state  of  society  in 
Goyaz,  from  the  pen  of  M.  Auguste  St.  Hilaire,  and 
of  General  Raymundo  Joze  da  Cunha  Mattos.  Both 
of  these  gentlemen  traveled  extensively  within  its 
boundaries,  and  both  agree  in  representing  the  state  of 


32S 


GOLD  HUNTERS. 


society  as  backward  in  the  extreme.  Its  highest  phase 
is  represented  in  the  character  of  the  vaquciros,  or  cattle 
proprietors.  These  men  possess  vast  herds  of  horned 
cattle,  and  their  principal  business  is  to  mark,  tend,  and 
fold  them.  They  understand  the  use  of  the  lasso,  and 
also  of  the  long  knife,  but  their  moral  and  intellectual 
condition  is  deplorable.  St.  Hilaire  remarks,  that  “the 
people  who  become  domesticated  in  these  vast  wilds, 
seem  to  lose  the  very  elements  of  civilization.  By 
degrees  their  ideas  of  religion,  and  their  respect  for  the 
institution  of  marriage,  disappear.  They  learn  to  dis- 
pense with  the  use  of  money  as  a circulating  medium, 
and  to  forego  the  use  of  salt  upon  their  food.”  But 
this  is  not  all — “A  species  of  brutish  infidelity  is 
already  disseminated  throughout  these  sertoens,  which, 
it  is  to  be  feared,  will  end  not  only  in  degrading  the 
people  below  the  ordinary  rank  of  moral  and  civilized 
society,  but  even  below  the  condition  of  the  aboriginal 
Indians.” 

Goyaz  and  Matto  Grosso  may  be  ranked  together  in 
the  relation  they  bear  to  the  other  portions  of  the  em- 
pire and  of  the  world.  Both  were  originally  settled  by 
gold  hunters.  The  lure  of  treasure  led  adventurers  to 
bury  themselves  in  the  deep  recesses  of  these  intermi- 
nable forests.  Their  search  was  successful.  Their 
most  eager  avarice  was  satiated.  “Gold  was  so  plen- 
tiful, that  for  the  first  year  every  slave  commonly  re- 
turned three  or  four  ounces  a day.  It  lay  upon  the 
very  surface  of  the  ground.  But  the  thoughtless  ad- 
venturers had  made  no  provision  for  supporting  them- 
selves in  the  wilderness,  and  they  discovered,  when 
too  late,  that  food  was  more  precious  than  gold.  A 
few  white  deer  were  the  only  game  they  could  find,  and 


EDUCATION. 


329 


mangabas  the  only  fruit.  Higher  prices  for  provisions 
have  seldom  been  demanded  in  a besieged  town,  or 
during  extreme  famine,  than  these  poor  miners  were 
glad  to  pay.  A pound  of  gold  could  scarcely  buy  a 
bushel  of  corn,  and  in  one  instance  a pound  of  gold 
was  bartered  for  a pound  of  salt.  A drove  of  cattle 
arrived,  and  flesh  and  bone  together  were  sold  for  an 
ounce  and  a half  of  gold  per  pound.  The  gold  which 
they  gathered  was  expended  for  provision,  but  all  was 
not  enough,  and  many  of  them  literally  died  of  star- 
vation. 

“ The  time  when  gold  was  most  abundant,  was  de- 
scribed by  one  of  the  survivors  as  a season  of  pestilence 
and  famine;  and  the  discoverer  himself,  who  counted 
his  gold  by  arrobas,*  died  of  leprosy.”  In  later  times 
gold  has  become  scarcer,  but  the  march  of  improve- 
ment has  been  slow,  and  notwithstanding  the  ardent 
anticipations  of  Mr.  Southey  and  some  others,  the  day 
is  likely  to  be  distant  when  these  regions  will  either  be 
populous  or  highly  enlightened. 

The  presidential  reports  of  Goyaz  state  the  number 
of  primary  schools  in  that  province  to  be  sixteen  for 
boys,  and  two  for  girls.  There  existed  at  the  same 
lime  five  or  six  schools  of  a higher  order,  and  the 
number  of  pupils  attending  them  is  about  one  thousand. 
The  provincial  government  has,  within  a few  years, 
imported  a printing  press,  which  is  chiefly  employed  in 
printing  official  documents.  The  condition  of  the  me- 
chanical arts  in  these  two  provinces  may  be  inferred 
from  statements  made  in  the  report  of  the  minister  of 
the  empire  in  1844. 

“ It  is  scarcely  possible  to  find  persons  who  have  any 


* A weight  of  thirty-two  pounds. 

Vol.  II.— 42  2 c 2 


330 


TRAVELS  IN  THE  INTERIOR. 


skill  in  the  common  mechanical  trades;  none  whatever 
in  comparison  with  the  wants  of  the  country.  Eight 
French  mechanics  were  recently  on  their  way  to  Matto 
Grosso.  As  they  passed  through  Goyaz,  the  provincial 
government  induced  three  of  them,  a carpenter,  a ca- 
binet maker,  and  a blacksmith,  to  establish  themselves 
within  its  bounds  ; and  this  event  was  deemed  so  im- 
portant, as  to  be  officially  stated  in  the  president’s 
message  to  the  next  provincial  assembly.”  The  minis- 
ter of  the  empire  significantly  remarks,  that  “ from  such 
particulars,  some  idea  may  be  formed  of  the  actual 
state  of  things  in  general.” 

It  is  not  a little  remarkable,  that  notw  ithstanding  the 
length  and  dreariness  of  journeys  through  the  interior 
of  Brazil,  yet  that  travelers  and  naturalists  in  former 
years,  have  given  much  more  attention  to  those  distant 
and  solitary  regions,  than  to  the  richer  and  more  popu- 
lous sections  lying  contiguous  to  the  coast.  Indeed, 
the  only  considerable  portion  of  the  coast  which  has 
ever  been  the  subject  of  scientific  observations,  is  that 
passed  over  by  prince  Maximillian,  in  his  land  journey 
from  Rio  de  Janeiro  to  Bahia.  Whereas,  the  interior 
and  central  portions  of  the  empire,  have  been  repeat- 
edly explored  by  the  most  distinguished  naturalists. 

The  bare  mention  of  the  names  of  Eschwege, 
Rodriguez,  Ferreira,  Spix,  Martius,  Nattcrrer,  St. 
Hilaire,  and  Von  Langsdorff,  is  sufficient  to  remind 
those  who  have  given  attention  to  the  natural  history 
of  South  America,  of  the  valuable  labors  already  de- 
voted to  this  portion  of  the  immense  field  which  Brazil 
offers  to  the  observation  of  the  world.  Several  of  these 
gentlemen  were  sent  out  at  the  expense  of  their  re- 
spective governments,  and  consequently  were  furnished 


RUSSIAN  EMBASSY. 


331 


on  the  most  liberal  scale  with  whatever  could  render 
their  investigation  complete. 

It  is  hardly  possible  to  place  too  high  a value  upon 
the  works  of  St.  Hilaire,  the  author  of  the  Plantes 
Usueltes.  This  gentleman  became  fully  acquainted 
with  the  Brazilian  character,  and  for  a long  time  iden- 
tified himself  with  the  inhabitants  of  the  sertoens. 
Mr.  Natterrer,  a German  naturalist,  spent  seven  years 
in  traversing  the  regions  now  the  subject  of  remark. 
On  the  whole,  however,  no  scientific  mission  to  Brazil 
has  resulted  more  successfully  than  that  sent  out  by 
the  king  of  Bavaria,  and  executed  by  doctors  Spix  and 
Martins.  These  gentlemen  passed  from  Rio  through 
S.  Paulo,  Minas  Geraes,  and  Goyaz,  to  the  city  of  Ma- 
ranham  ; thence  proceeding  by  sea  to  Para,  they  as- 
cended the  Amazon  as  far  as  Tabatinga,  which  stands 
at  the  limit  of  the  Brazilian  territories.  They  made 
numerous  lateral  excursions  on  the  rivers  Negro,  Ja- 
pury,  and  other  streams,  and  finally  descended  the 
river,  and  returned  from  Para  to  Europe.  They  not 
only  secured  immense  and  valuable  collections,  but 
have  lived  to  present  the  world  with  numerous  learned 
works,  the  result  of  their  observations. 

The  scientific  commissioners  appointed  by  the  em- 
peror of  Russia  to  traverse  Brazil,  was  considerably 
larger  than  that  last  mentioned,  and  most  amply 
qualified  for  its  object;  but  its  issue  was  unfortunate. 
The  Baron  Von  Langsdorff,  who  had  long  resided  at 
Rio  in  a diplomatic  capacity,  was  placed  at  its  head, 
and  directed  its  movements  with  great  zeal  and  energy. 
The  expedition  proceeded  from  Rio  de  Janeiro  through 
San  Paulo  and  Matto  Grosso. 

Having  reached  the  sources  of  the  Madeira,  the 


332 


UNHAPPY  ISSUE. 


party  divided,  and  pursued  different  routs,  in  order  to 
explore  as  wide  an  extent  of  country  as  possible  before 
reaching  their  common  destination,  the  city  of  Para. 
As  might  have  been  expected,  the  excessive  toils  and 
hardships  to  which  the  gentlemen  engaged  in  this  en- 
terprise were  subject,  brought  on  sickness  and  several 
deaths. 

But  a very  unlooked-for  circumstance  occurred, 
which  had  the  effect  to  deprive  the  world  of  the  benefit 
of  the  investigations  made  at  so  much  expense  and 
labor.  A primary  regulation  of  the  enterprise,  pro- 
vided that  no  member  of  the  expedition  should  publish 
his  journal  or  notes  until  after  those  of  the  director, 
if  living,  had  been  edited.  By  a strange  fatality,  the 
Baron  Von  Langsdorff  returned  to  Europe  in  a state 
of  mental  alienation,  the  result  of  sickness  and  expo- 
sure in  the  regions  through  which  he  had  passed.  In 
that  state  he  has  long  survived,  and  thus  a lamentable 
silence  was  imposed  upon  the  whole  corps  of  his  asso- 
ciates. 

M.  Riedel,  one  of  his  coadjutors,  returned  to  Rio  de 
Janeiro,  and  remained  there.  He  has  continued  ever 
since  to  give  his  attention  to  scientific  pursuits,  and  is 
unquestionably  better  acquainted  with  the  botany  of 
Brazil  tlmn  any  other  person  living.  This  gentleman 
has  made  application  to  the  court  of  St.  Petersburgh, 
for  the  privilege,  not  only  of  publishing  his  own  obser- 
vations, but  also  of  editing  the  papers  of  Von  Langs- 
dorff.  It  is  presumed,  that  so  reasonable  a request 
w ill  not  be  denied ; and  hence,  it  is  to  be  hoped,  that 
the  results  of  that  expedition  will  ere  long  be  published. 

The  only  province  that  now  remains  for  us  to  notice  is 
Minas  Geraes.  It  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  Pernam- 


MINAS  GERAES. 


333 


buco  and  Bahia,  east  by  Espirito  Santo,  south  by  Rio 
de  Janeiro  and  S.  Paulo,  and  west  by  Goyaz.  This  pro- 
vince is  situated  between  the  thirteenth  and  twenty-third 
degrees  of  south  latitude.  Its  form  is  nearly  square.  It 
is  considerably  smaller  than  the  provinces  last  noticed. 
Its  area  contains  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  thousand 
square  miles,  and  its  population  is  estimated  at  seven 
hundred  and  sixty  thousand,  about  five  to  the  square 
mile.  Some  portions  of  Minas  correspond  very  nearly 
to  the  condition  of  Goyaz  and  Matto  Grosso,  being  still 
a wilderness,  and  overrun  with  Indian  tribes.  Other 
portions  are  among  the  most  improved  and  eligible 
parts  of  the  empire.  One  writer  has  remarked,  with 
great  emphasis,  that  if  there  be  one  spot  in  the  world 
which  might  be  made  to  surpass  all  others,  Minas  is 
that  favored  spot.  Its  climate  is  mild  and  healthful; 
its  surface  is  elevated  and  undulating;  its  soil  is  fertile, 
and  capable  of  yielding  the  most  valuable  productions ; 
its  forests  abound  in  choice  timber,  balsams,  drugs,  and 
dye-woods. 

But  all  these  circumstances  together,  have  not  given 
the  province  so  much  celebrity,  as  the  single  fact  of  its 
inexhaustible  mineral  wealth.  Its  name  signifies  the 
general  or  universal  mines,  and  accordingly,  mines  of 
gold,  silver,  copper  and  iron,  are  found  within  its  bor- 
ders, besides  quantities  of  precious  stones.  Several  of 
its  most  valuable  gold  mines  have  been  wrought  by  an 
English  mining  company  for  the  last  twenty  years. 
This  company  was  organized  under  the  auspices  of 
Don  Pedro  I.  in  1825,  with  an  active  capital  of  two 
hundred  thousand  pounds.  It  has  been  unquestionably 
a source  of  profit  to  its  stockholders,  and  has  rendered 
great  service  to  the  country  generally,  by  introducing 


334 


AGRICULTURE. 


the  most  approved  methods  of  mining,  and  by  giving  a 
general  impetus  to  Brazilian  industry.  At  the  same 
time  paying  duties  of  twenty  per  cent,  upon  its  pro- 
ducts, it  has  yielded  a large  revenue  to  the  government. 
This  company  constantly  employs  a large  number  of 
miners  from  Cornwall,  and  has  established  quite  an 
English  village  at  Gongo  Socco,  its  principal  mine. 

So  much  has  been  written  in  detail  respecting  the 
province  of  Minas  by  Mawe,  Walsh,  and  others,  that 
it  is  only  necessary  for  me  to  state,  in  general  terms, 
those  facts  which  relate  to  its  present  condition.  The 
agricultural  capacities  of  the  province  are  very  great. 
It  yields  coffee,  sugar,  tobacco  and  cotton.  It  indeed 
produces  some  coarse  manufactures  of  cotton.  Its  soil 
yields  Indian  corn  in  great  profusion,  and  may  be  made 
to  grow  wheat.  Upon  its  campinas,  or  upland  prairies, 
innumerable  herds  of  cattle,  and  some  flocks  of  sheep, 
are  pastured.  The  milk  of  the  cows  is  converted  into 
a species  of  soft  cheese,  known  as  the  queijo  de  Minas. 
The  form,  as  well  as  the  flavor  of  this  cheese,  is  pecu- 
liar. The  cheeses  are  made  about  two  inches  thick, 
and  six  or  eight  in  diameter.  When  sufficiently  cured, 
they  are  wrapped  in  banana  leaves  and  packed  in  bas- 
kets, to  be  transported  to  market,  like  every  thing  else, 
on  the  backs  of  mules.  Immense  quantities  of  them 
may  be  seen  at  Rio  de  Janeiro,  and  from  that  port  they 
are  scattered  along  the  coast,  being  very  much  esteem- 
ed as  an  article  of  food. 

Nothing  so  much  hinders  the  general  prosperity  of 
Minas  Geracs  as  its  lack  of  good  roads,  and  some  fea- 
sible thoroughfare  to  a market.  The  province  has,  of 
late  years,  expended  no  inconsiderable  sums  upon  the 
construction  of  roads,  but,  as  yet,  it  cannot  send  a single 


EDUCATION. 


335 


ton  of  its  produce  to  market  upon  wheels.  The  jour- 
ney from  Ouro  Preto,  the  capital,  to  Rio  de  Janeiro, 
a distance  of  about  two  hundred  miles,  is  performed 
on  the  backs  of  mules  and  horses  only,  and  ordinarily 
requires  fifteen  days. 

As  to  education,  it  is  but  just  to  say,  that  Minas  Ge- 
raes,  according  to  official  statistics,  takes  the  lead  of 
all  the  provinces  in  this  praiseworthy  enterprise.  The 
provincial  government  has  made  large  expenditures  for 
the  support  of  schools,  and  the  people  seem  to  have 
appreciated  the  benefit  to  be  derived  from  them. 

The  province  provides  for  one  hundred  and  eighty- 
two  public  schools.  Of  these,  there  were  recently  in 
operation,  ninety-six  primary  schools  for  boys,  fifteen 
for  girls,  and  twenty-six  Latin  schools.  About  eight 
thousand  pupils  were  enrolled  in  these  schools,  and  the 
average  attendance  was  about  six  thousand.  Besides 
these,  there  existed  a number  of  private  schools;  and 
the  majority  of  the  inhabitants,  in  one  way  or  other,  are 
giving  their  children  an  education.  Several  young  gen- 
tlemen have  been  sent  to  Europe  at  the  expense  of  the 
province,  to  qualify  themselves  for  the  task  of  normal 
instruction. 

Should  the  long  talked-of  enterprise  of  steam  navi- 
gation upon  the  Rio  Doce  and  the  Rio  de  S.  Francisco 
ever  prove  successful,  the  interests  of  Minas  Geraes 
would,  it  is  presumed,  be  greatly  promoted.  New  chan- 
nels would  be  opened  for  its  commerce,  and  new  life 
would  be  infused  into  every  department  of  industry. 
In  the  meantime,  if  the  province  pursues  the  course  it 
has  followed  for  several  years  past,  its  civil  and  intel- 
lectual progress,  though  slow,  will  be  sure. 


336 


DEPARTURE  FROM  PARA. 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

Departure  from  Pari. — Voyage  to  Maranham. — A Student  without  a 
Passport.  — Passengers.  — Ceard. — A thieving  Jangadeiro.  — The 
Coast. — Pernambuco. — Bahia. — The  Orientale. — Polytechnic  School 
afloat. — Customs  on  board. — Entrance  to  Rio  de  Janeiro  by  night. 
— The  Expedition. — Mission  to  the  Seamen  of  Rio. — General  results 
of  Missionary  efforts. — Sudden  bereavement. 

If  the  reader  is  now  disposed  to  return  from  our 
discursion  into  the  interior  of  Brazil,  he  is  invited  to 
accompany  the  author  in  a rapid  voyage  along  the 
coast  from  Para  to  Rio  de  Janeiro. 

After  a residence  of  nearly  two  months  at  Para,  I 
left  that  city  on  board  the  Pernambucana,  bound  to 
the  southern  ports,  in  company  with  only  two  other 
passengers.  We  sailed  at  five  P.  M.  The  descent  of 
the  river  was  remarkably  pleasant.  We  went  down 
with  the  ebb  tide,  and  our  progress  was  consequently 
accelerated.  But  during  the  night  the  speed  of  our 
engines  was  checked,  lest  we  should  find  ourselves  too 
soon  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  shoals  at  the  river’s 
mouth.  Our  captain  graduated  his  time  with  great 
precision,  and  we  passed  safely  between  the  shoals 
of  Tigo^a  and  Braganza  just  at  daylight. 

Having  passed  into  the  open  sea  we  stood  upon  our 
course,  with  nothing  to  hinder  our  progress  save  a 
strong  breeze  “ dead  ahead.”  This  steam  packet  was 
under  excellent  discipline,  with  English  officers,  and  a 
mixed  crew  of  Portuguese,  French,  and  negroes.  On 
overhauling  my  baggage  I found  an  assortment  of 
reading  that  seemed  to  supply  the  wants  of  all  classes, 


VOYAGE  TO  MARANHAM. 


337 


and  when  distributed  it  was  most  kindly  received. 
Our  cook,  a Frenchman,  about  forty  years  of  age, 
showed  me  a volume  which  he  had  designed  to  pe- 
ruse on  the  voyage  during  his  leisure  hours.  I found 
it  to  be  a volume  of  Voltaire’s  works,  a melange  of 
poetic  epistles.  I gave  him,  as  a substitute  for  it, 
Message  de  Dieu  envers  toi. 

The  whole  shore  along  which  we  passed  is  very  low 
and  flat.  It  cannot  be  discerned  from  any  considera- 
ble distance.  About  ten  o’clock,  of  our  third  morning 
out,  the  conical  mountain  of  Itacolumi  was  seen  to 
rise  slowly  out  of  the  water  on  our  starboard  bows, 
and  we  began  to  think  of  again  getting  into  port.  At 
four  o’clock  p.  M.  I stepped  on  shore  at  the  stone 
stairs,  near  the  president’s  palace,  in  the  city  of  Ma- 
ranham.  This  town  presents  a great  contrast  to  Para 
in  the  number  of  persons  seen  in  the  streets.  Gentle- 
men and  ladies,  finely  dressed,  are  met  at  every  step. 
But  having  already  devoted  a chapter  to  sketches  of 
the  city  and  province,  further  descriptions  will  be  un- 
necessary. The  regulation  of  the  steam  packets  was, 
to  remain  forty-eight  hours  in  each  port.  When  the 
hour  for  embarcation  arrived,  our  packet  had  greatly 
increased  her  number  of  passengers,  but  she  suffered 
a slight  detention  from  the  necessity  of  receiving  coals 
to  the  last  moment. 

Pending  this  delay  an  animated  scene  occurred  for 
the  diversion  of  the  company.  A man  appeared  along- 
side as  a passenger,  who  could  show  no  passport.  The 
officer  of  the  port  declared  he  could  not  go.  He  plead 
most  eloquently,  saying  he  was  nothing  but  a student, 
he  had  no  slaves,  nobody  need  be  suspicious  of  him. 
He  had  but  just  arrived,  and  was  now  returning.  But 

Vol.  II.— 43  2 D 


338 


PASSENGERS. 


no,  liis  plea  was  unavailing — “ It  was  a time  of  revo- 
lution— ordens  terminantes  forbade  any  idea  of  compro- 
mise.” After  having  the  argument  fairly  out,  and 
losing  nearly  all  his  time,  this  Senhor  resolved  to  take 
advice,  and  hurry  to  the  president’s  palace  to  get  his 
former  passport  endorsed.  Fortunately  for  him  all 
formalities  were  waived  by  the  president,  who  admit- 
ted him,  and  granted  his  request  at  once;  so  he  pre- 
sently came  back,  quite  out  of  breath,  hut  just  in  time 
to  save  his  passage. 

On  passing  out  we  found  the  sea  to  be  very  rough, 
with  a strong  wind  ahead.  Our  progress  was  conse- 
quently very  slow.  Our  new  company  was  composed 
entirely  of  Portuguese  and  Brazilians,  and  the  office 
of  general  interpreter  seemed  to  fall  on  me  as  a mat- 
ter of  necessity,  since  the  officers  of  the  vessel,  and 
those  important  characters  the  stewards,  were  Eng- 
lish, and  not  versed  in  the  idiorna  national. 

Among  the  passengers  was  a gentleman  of  some 
literary  distinction,  a Portuguese  by  birth,  who  had 
recently  become  blind.  Another  was  a young  Brazilian 
doctor  of  laws,  who  had  graduated  at  the  university  of 
Olinda,  and  afterward  served  as  juiz  de  direito  at 
Caxias,  the  revolted  district.  These  gentlemen  were 
in  company  with  each  other,  bound  to  Rio  de  Janeiro. 
We  also  had  on  hoard  a Desembargador  from  Para, 
and  a Portuguese  sea  captain,  the  master  of  a slave 
vessel.  This  last  individual  was  the  only  person  whom 
I heard,  while  in  Brazil,  openly  advocate  the  doctrines 
of  atheism.  Surely  he  was  a fit  disciple  of  such  doc- 
trines. 

A voyage  of  four  days  and  a half  took  us  into  the 
harbor  of  Ceara.  This  port  is  one  of  some  difficulty 


CEARA. 


339 


to  make  when  approached  from  either  direction,  not 
so  much  from  its  lacking  landmarks  as  from  the  dif- 
ficulty of  perceiving  the  mountains  in  its  rear.  A 
thick  haze  constantly  hangs  over  the  land,  during  the 
period  of  the  strong  winds,  which,  as  the  coast  is  low 
and  sandy,  prevents  its  being  seen  at  a distance,  al- 
though the  sky  may  be  perfectly  clear  overhead.  Those 
not  accustomed  to  navigating  this  coast  are  liable  to 
make  fatal  mistakes,  being  deceived  by  these  mists, 
and  running  too  near  the  shore.  Large  tracts  of  this 
coast  were  denominated  by  the  early  Portuguese  navi- 
gators lengoens,  “ white  sheets,”  or  “ sheeted  sands.” 
Our  packet  having  come  to  anchor  at  Ceara  I had 
the  good  fortune  to  disembark,  by  the  aid  of  a paviola, 
without  getting  wet.  I enjoyed  the  same  good  fortune 
again,  when  returning  on  board,  though  very  few  of 
the  passengers  could  say  as  much,  having  come  off 
when  the  tide  was  beginning  to  flow.  „ 

We  sailed  from  Ceara  at  evening.  Just  as  we  were 
getting  under  way  a trifling  incident  occurred,  having 
in  it  enough  of  the  ludicrous  to  suffice  for  the  remain- 
der of  the  voyage.  Our  captain,  a tart  old  English- 
man, had  sent  his  linen  on  shore  to  be  washed.  It  was 
brought  off  by  some  person  on  board  the  pilot’s  jan- 
gada.  When  the  bundle  was  examined  it  appeared 
that  a pair  of  white  pantaloons  was  missing.  No  small 
hubbub  was  the  result  of  this  discovery.  Every  body 
within  reach  was  catechised,  as  a means  of  obtaining 
light  on  the  subject,  but  no  one  knew  any  thing  about  the 
matter  save  that  the  captain  had  lost  his  pantaloons. 
Fortunately  the  washerwoman  was  not  on  board,  or 
she  would  have  been  summarily  condemned  on  suspi- 
cion. But  in  her  absence  the  whole  body  of  Cearenses 


340 


A THIEVING  JANGADEIRO. 


had  to  suffer  the  worst  accusations.  They  were  set 
down  as  thieves  and  blackguards  at  once,  and  without 
a hearing.  At  length  a happy  thought  occurred — the 
jangada  must  be  searched.  There  it  lay,  fastened 
astern  by  a long  rope;  its  poles  were  perfectly  bare, 
and  there  was  not  a nook  or  corner  in  the  whole  craft 
into  which  a mouse  could  creep.  One  of  the  janga- 
deiros  had  come  on  board  the  steamer  with  his  master 
the  pilot,  and  the  other  sat,  apparently  half  asleep,  on 
the  steersman’s  bench.  The  very  idea  of  a search  was 
ridiculous,  but  it  must  be  made.  The  gig  was  manned, 
and  the  commission  proceeded  to  the  only  thing  which 
could  be  done,  namely,  to  disturb  the  dreams  of  the 
swarthy  jangadeiro.  He  was  made  to  rise  from  his 
seat,  when  lo!  the  stolen  pantaloons  appeared.  This 
discovery,  instead  of  soothing  our  captain’s  irritated 
feelings,  seemed  farther  to  exasperate  them.  There 
was  now  proof  positive  that  the  Ccarenses  were  cer- 
tainly thieves,  and  if  the  overflowings  of  his  indigna- 
tion could  only  have  been  interpreted,  so  that  the  poor 
fellows  for  whom  it  was  meant  could  comprehend  them, 
they  might  have  had  some  moral  effect. 

Now  it  happened  that  the  pilot  himself  was  already 
the  subject  of  the  captain’s  most  sovereign  contempt. 
The  idea  of  an  ignorant  old  fisherman  teaching  an 
English  navigator  how  to  take  a vessel  out  of  the  har- 
bor of  Ceara  was  absolutely  insufferable,  except  for 
“ owners’  orders.”  At  the  same  time  the  owners  were 
fools  for  submitting  to  such  an  imposition.  When  the 
steamer  was  once  under  way,  the  pilot’s  jangada  got 
a most  merciless  walk-in-the-water.  The  pilot  now, 
secure  of  his  fees,  wished  to  be  oft’.  A very  limited 
pause  was  granted  for  his  accommodation,  and  the  old 


PERNAMBUCO. 


341 


man  had  to  handle  himself  with  great  dispatch  in  get- 
ting clear  of  the  steamer,  and  in  rejoining  his  man, 
whom  the  captain  declared  ought  to  be  drowned  with- 
out ceremony. 

The  time  of  sailing  was  favorable,  the  sea  beinsr 
smooth  and  the  wind  moderate.  The  next  morning 
we  were  off  Aracaty.  The  following  day  and  night 
were  passed  out  of  sight  of  land.  The  second  morn- 
ing we  doubled  Cape  St.  Roque,  and  stood  close  in 
shore..  During  the  day  we  saw  the  entrance  of  Natal, 
the  capital  of  Rio  Grande  do  Norte,  and  at  dark  we 
were  off  Ponta  Nejgrra.  We  had  still  a strong  current 
ahead,  but  the  wind  was  free. 

The  next  day  was  Sunday.  In  the  morning  we 
were  off  Parahiba  river,  and  met  the  Maranhense  on 
her  passage  up.  The  day  was  charming,  and  the  view 
presented  by  the  coast,  with  its  villages,  its  cocoa 
groves,  and  its  general  scenery,  was  greatly  superior 
to  any  thing  I had  seen  north  of  it.  In  fact,  there  is  no 
portion  of  the  whole  Brazilian  coast  more  populous  or 
better  cultivated  than  these  parts  of  Parahiba  and  Per- 
nambuco. By  four  o’clock  p.  M.,  we  were  at  anchor 
inside  the  reef  of  Pernambuco,  and  I was  soon  among 
my  friends.  At  evening,  I attended  divine  service  at 
the  English  chapel,  but  was  pained  to  see  so  small  a 
proportion  of  the  English  and  American  residents  pre- 
sent. Among  other  privileges  which  I enjoyed  during 
this  short  call,  was  that  of  supplying  the  director  of  the 
most  flourishing  college  in  the  city  with  a quantity  of 
tracts,  which  that  gentleman  desired  for  the  purpose  of 
distributing  as  premiums  at  an  anniversary,  which  he 
was  preparing  to  celebrate  with  great  splendor  in  the 
Franciscan  convent. 


2 d 2 


342  POLYTECHNIC  SCHOOL  AFLOAT. 

We  sailed  from  Pernambuco  at  eight  o’clock  in  the 
evening,  and  enjoyed  a sublime  scene  in  passing  out  of 
the  gap  in  the  reef,  under  the  illumination  of  the  light- 
house. The  next  morning  we  found  ourselves  in  the 
open  sea,  with  fair  weather  and  a crowd  of  passengers. 
It  appeared  that  a vacation  in  the  Curso  Juridico  of 
Olinda  had  supplied  us  with  a bevy  of  young  doctors, 
or  doctors  in  embryo,  who  were  returning  homeward 
down  the  coast.  I was  sorry  to  observe  in  some  of 
them  more  outlandishness  of  manners  than  is  common 
in  Brazil,  even  among  the  lower  classes  of  people. 
At  four  o’clock  p.  M.,  we  made  the-  port  of  Maceid. 
Our  delay  there  was  only  thirty-six  hours,  and  we  had 
a splendid  run  from  thence  to  Bahia. 

The  details  of  my  arrival  and  residence  at  St.  Sal- 
vador having  been  previously  recorded,  it  is  unnecessary 
to  inform  the  reader,  that  in  the  interval  between  the 
departures  of  two  steam  packets,  I sailed  from  that 
port  to  Rio  de  Janeiro  on  board  the  French  ship  L’Ori- 
entale.  This  was  a vessel  bound  on  a voyage  round 
the  world,  having  on  board  a polytechnic  school  of 
sixty  pupils,  who,  aided  by  competent  professors,  were 
thus  to  travel  and  receive  their  education  at  the  same 
time.  The  enterprise  was  a private  one,  projected  by 
the  commander  of  the  vessel,  M.  Lucas,  and  conducted 
on  his  account,  although  it  had,  however,  received  the 
sanction  of  the  French  government.  The  Orientale 
was  a very  large  ship,  originally  constructed  for  the 
merchant  service.  She  now  wore  a pennant,  and 
mounting  eight  or  ten  guns,  had  the  appearance  of  a 
respectable  sloop  of  war.  She  had  sailed  from  IVantz, 
and  on  her  way  had  touched  at  Lisbon,  Madeira,  Te- 
neriffe,  and  Goree,  on  the  coast  of  Africa.  Thence 


ARRANGEMENT  OP  THE  SHIP. 


343 


she  had  stretched  across  the  Atlantic  to  Pernambuco. 
From  that  port  she  was  proceeding  to  visit  all  the  most 
important  places  at  which  she  could  touch  in  her  pro- 
jected voyage.  She  had  remained  ten  or  twelve  days 
at  Bahia,  during  which  time  I had  become  acquainted 
with  several  gentlemen  belonging  to  the  expedition. 

Knowing  my  desire  to  proceed  down  the  coast,  these 
gentlemen,  among  whom  the  assistant-surgeon  and 
professor  of  English  was  foremost,  had  kindly  secured 
me  the  offer  of  a passage  from  the  commander.  Ar- 
rangements were  made  accordingly,  and  on  the  evening 
of  a dull,  rainy  day,  I presented  myself  on  board.  I 
found  the  vessel  divided  into  three  departments.  The 
dunette  furnished  a cabin  and  state-rooms  for  the  cap- 
tain, the  scientific  professors,  and  three  ladies,  who 
were  on  board.  The  carre,  or  after-cabin,  below,  was 
allotted  to  the  amateurs,  a class  of  gentlemen  who  went 
for  the  mere  pleasure  of  the  voyage,  but  who  took  no 
part  in  the  scholastic  or  manual  exercises  of  the  vessel. 
For  the  pupils,  the  enirepont,  or  midships,  had  been 
fitted  up  so  as  to  accommodate  them  with  swinging 
hammocks  for  sleeping,  and  long  tables  for  eating  and 
study,  and  other  desirable  purposes.  Being  myself 
only  a transient  passenger,  I was  assigned  a hammock 
in  the  entrepont  with  the  pupils,  while  I was  to  mess 
with  the  captain  and  professors  in  the  dunette.  This 
arrangement  was  very  agreeable  to  me,  not  only  as 
being  the  best  that  could  be  made,  but  as  giving  me 
excellent  opportunities  of  observing  both  men  and 
manners.  The  ship's  company  presented  the  most 
singular  variety  of  personages  ever  thrown  together 
within  so  small  a compass. 

The  idea  of  establishing  a polytechnic  school  upon 


344 


DISCIPLINE  ON  BOARD. 


the  ocean  was  in  itself  singular,  and  it  had  drawn  to- 
gether the  curious  from  all  ranks  of  society.  The  great 
body  of  the  eleves  and  amateurs  were  sons  of  the  titled 
families  of  France  and  Belgium.  The  pupils  were  not 
only  taking  lessons  in  science  and  sight-seeing,  but  also 
in  practical  seamanship.  They  were  divided  into  re- 
gular watches,  and  expected  to  do  duty  in  every  de- 
partment of  sailor’s  work,  except  swabbing  decks. 
They  had  now  enjoyed  ten  or  twelve  days  in  port,  and 
were  not  very  prompt  in  resuming  their  places  on  board 
preparatory  to  sailing. 

My  first  night  in  the  entrepont  was  a long  and  almost 
sleepless  one.  The  air  of  the  apartment  was  exces- 
sively heated,  while  there  was  neither  wind  nor  motion 
to  secure  the  least  ventilation.  Besides  the  great  num 
her  of  sleepers,  whose  breath  was  continually  adding 
rarification  to  the  air,  individuals  were  conversing  in 
all  directions,  and  as  party  after  party  arrived,  new 
subjects  of  interest  were  introduced.  I was  somewhat 
amused  with  a dialogue  which  occurred  near  me  in 
terms  like  these. 

“Notre  passager  est-il  rendu?” 

“ Oui,  il  est  ici.” 

“Est-il  un  Pretre?” 

“Oui,  il  a deja  fait  ses  prieres.” 

“Vraiment,  il  fait  une  drole  education  chez  nous 
ici!” 

Long  before  morning  all  was  still,  and  probably  all 
were  sleeping.  It  was  quite  natural  that  some  curi- 
osity should  be  indulged  respecting  the  new  passenger, 
and  especially,  since  he  was  the  only  American  on 
board.  I had,  however,  no  reason  to  complain  of  this, 
as  it  doubtless  had  its  influence  in  securing  me  an  im- 


CUSTOMS  ON  BOARD. 


345 


mediate  acquaintance  with  those  who  had  a disposition 
to  learn  more  of  myself,  my  country,  or  of  Brazil,  than 
they  already  knew.  Such  indeed  was  the  kindness 
and  gentlemanly  bearing  which  I received  from  all  on 
board,  that  I very  soon  felt  myself  quite  at  home  in  the 
midst  of  so  novel  a scene. 

We  sailed  from  Bahia  at  noon.  The  wind  was  at  first 
very  light,  but  by  degrees  it  freshened  up.  Our  fare- 
well view  of  the  splendid  scenery  of  the  city  and  of  the 
bay  was  the  subject  of  universal  admiration,  but  before 
dark  the  whole  promontory  had  sunk  in  the  distant 
northern  horizon. 

The  Orientale  was  a fine  sailing  vessel,  and  we 
moved  off  rapidly  towards  our  destination.  The  man- 
ner in  which  this  ship  was  furnished,  was  different  from 
the  usual  customs  of  the  sea.  Not  a fowl,  pig,  or  other 
live  animal,  was  on  board  for  the  use  of  the  table. 
Fruits  constituted  the  only  article  of  fresh  provisions  in 
use,  unless  daily  supplies  of  new  bread  constituted 
another  exception.  It  must  not  be  inferred  from  this 
remark,  that  the  fare  on  board  was  indifferent.  The 
vessel  was  literally  freighted  with  provisions,  of  which 
preserved  meats  and  vegetables  formed  a large  pro- 
portion. Notwithstanding  the  celebrity  of  the  French 
style  of  living,  I could  but  think,  that  in  some  particu- 
lars, it  was  not  specially  adapted  to  life  at  sea.  There 
was,  for  example,  the  rule  of  etiquette,  which  required 
each  individual  to  be  furnished  with  a knife,  fork,  spoon, 
napkin,  and  tumbler,  for  his  own  exclusive  use.  As  a 
practical  result  of  this  exclusiveness,  one  would  observe 
on  the  announcement  of  breakfast  or  dinner,  a general 
movement  towards  the  state-rooms.  The  company 
would  soon  reappear,  each  one  bringing  the  above- 

Vol.  H.— 44 


346 


CUSTOMS  AT  THE  TABLE. 


named  articles,  with  the  sang  froid  of  a journeyman 
mechanic  carrying  the  necessary  tools  to  his  day’s  work. 
The  first  operation  of  each  one  was  to  wipe  his  plate 
with  his  napkin,  and  afterward  his  knife,  fork,  and 
spoon.  This  act  was  repeated  as  often  as  thought  ne- 
cessary during  the  meal,  until  finally,  at  the  close  of  the 
repast,  they  were  all  cleaned  again  to  be  laid  away. 

This  custom  certainly  lightened  the  labor  of  the  ser- 
vants, and  may  have  been  very  congenial  to  the  notions 
of  those  who  could  not  endure  the  vulgarity  of  eating 
after  another  person  ; but  the  operation  of  cleaning 
dishes  at  the  table,  and  particularly  by  the  aid  of  cloths 
that  in  their  appearance  demonstrated  the  difficulty  of 
procuring  good  washing  at  sea,  did  not  at  all  commend 
the  practice  to  my  estimation. 

The  process  of  making  coffee  was  conducted  on  a 
similar  principle.  That  material  was  brought  in  after 
meals,  just  roasted  and  in  the  kernel;  a coffee-mill 
was  then  produced  to  grind  it.  This  coffee-grinding  is 
usually  a musical  operation,  but  it  was  on  these  occa- 
sions performed  gratuitously,  for  the  edification  of  the 
company.  Once  pulverized,  the  coffee  was  put  into  a 
long  bag,  resembling  in  shape  an  inverted  loaf  of 
sugar,  the  remains  of  the  former  decoction  having  been 
first  thrown  out.  This  bag  was  suspended  by  a string 
over  the  table,  and  hot  water  being  poured  in  at  the 
top,  was  left  to  drain  through  it  drop  by  drop,  until 
coffee  enough  was  filtered  to  fill  the  several  cups  of  the 
company.  The  whole  ceremony  frequently  lasted  an 
hour. 

On  the  sixth  day  out,  we  found  ourselves  at  sunrise 
completely  becalmed,  with  land  in  sight.  This  land 
was  at  first  supposed  to  be  Cape  Frio,  but  afterward 


NARROW  ESCAPE. 


347 


proved  to  be  a mountain  farther  to  the  westward.  The 
morning  was  pleasant,  and  we  were  elated  with  the 
idea  that  the  sea-breeze  would  spring  up  the  regular 
time,  and  take  us  directly  into  the  harbor  of  Rio  de 
Janeiro,  a dim  outline  of  which  could  now  be  seen. 
But  our  anxious  waiting  was  followed  by  a dismal 
rain,  and  late  in  the  afternoon  we  abandoned  all  hope 
of  entering  the  harbor  until  the  next  day.  However, 
the  squall  thickened,  and  being  accompanied  with 
wind,  gave  us  some  motion.  After  the  squall  passed 
over,  the  breeze  continued,  and  our  hopes  revived  as 
we  began  to  find  ourselves  among  the  islands.  In 
short,  before  dark  we  were  inside  the  Ilha  Raza  light- 
house, and  by  sailing  close  on  the  wind,  were  enabled 
to  make  our  course  into  the  narrow  mouth  of  the  har- 
bor. We  passed  close  under  the  walls  of  Fort  Santa 
Cruz — but  just  as  the  vessel  was  in  the  most  critical 
part  of  the  passage,  the  wind  lulled,  and  the  current  of 
the  ebbing  tide  swept  her  back,  and  by  degrees  carried 
her  over  towards  the  rocks  upon  which  Fort  Lage  is 
constructed.  The  moment  was  one  of  great  excite- 
ment and  danger.  Our  situation  was  perceived  at  the 
forts,  which  severally  fired  guns  and  burned  white  and 
blue  lights,  in  order  to  show  us  their  position. 

A more  sublime  scene  can  hardly  be  imagined. 
The  rolling  thunders  of  the  cannon  were  echoed  back 
by  the  surrounding  mountain  peaks,  and  the  brilliant 
glare  of  the  artificial  flames  appeared  the  more  intense 
in  the  midst  of  unusual  darkness.  Happily  for  the 
vessel  and  all  on  board,  the  wind  freshened  in  time, 
and  we  were  borne  gallantly  up  to  the  man-of-war  an- 
chorage, where,  at  nine  o’clock,  we  were  lying  moored 
to  not  less  than  seventy  fathoms  of  chain. 


348 


ARRIVAL  AT  RIO. 


The  moon  had  not  yet  risen,  and  the  evening  re- 
mained very  dark.  This  circumstance  heightened  the 
beauty  of  the  city  and  the  effect  of  her  thousand  lamps, 
which  were  seen  brightly  burning  at  measured  intervals 
over  the  hills  and  prayas  of  her  far-stretching  suburbs. 
One  young  man  was  so  enchanted  with  the  novelty  and 
splendor  of  the  scene,  that  he  remained  on  deck  all 
night  to  gaze  upon  it,  notwithstanding  rain  fell  at  in- 
tervals. As  to  myself,  I thought  it  prudent  to  retire 
to  my  hammock,  although  my  feelings  were  so  power- 
ful as  almost  to  banish  the  idea  of  sleep.  I was  now 
brought  back,  through  all  my  wanderings,  to  the  imme- 
diate vicinity  of  my  family,  whose  joys  or  sorrows  I 
expected  to  share  in  the  morning. 

I can  hardly  take  my  leave  of  the  Orientale  without 
a few  remarks  upon  the  character  and  prospects  of  the 
expedition.  The  leading  idea  upon  which  it  was 
planned,  was  not  the  most  judicious ; for  however  beau- 
tiful the  combination  of  a course  of  study  and  travel 
might  seem  in  theory,  it  was  not  found  to  work  well  in 
practice.  Again,  the  expedition  was  novel,  and  diffi- 
culties occurred  in  preserving  proper  order.  The 
rigorous  discipline  of  a man-of-war  would  have  been 
resisted  as  tyrannical,  and  any  thing  short  of  it  was  likely 
to  result  in  confusion.  Moreover,  the  respective  rela- 
tions of  the  officers  of  the  vessel,  the  professors,  the 
amateurs,  and  the  eleves,  had  not  been  defined  with 
sufficient  precision  in  the  outset;  hence  arose  unlook- 
ed-for and  aggravated  differences.  Notwithstanding 
these  circumstances,  I witnessed  much  on  hoard  the 
Orientale  that  was  interesting.  I cannot  fail  to  remark 
the  cheerful  and  man-like  manner  in  which  several 
individuals  of  the  highest  rank  of  European  .society 


MISSION  TO  THE  SEAMEN. 


349 


entered  upon  and  persevered  in  the  laborious  duties  of 
the  common  sailor.  Instead  of  being  zealous  in  these 
duties  merely  at  times,  when  they  could  show  off  to 
advantage,  they  seemed  really  and  perseveringly  enthu- 
siastic in  the  disposition  to  harden  themselves  by  ap- 
plication to  the  severest  toil.  It  certainly  was  a novel 
and  peculiar  sight  to  behold  barons,  counts,  viscounts, 
marquises,  and  young  men  of  every  grade  of  hereditary 
rank,  dressed  in  woolen  shirts  and  tarred  trowsers, 
standing  at  the  wheel,  going  aloft,  and  rowing  boats. 

This  was  the  order  of  things  on  board  the  Orientale ; 
and  whatever  may  have  been  the  fate  of  her  expedi- 
tion, I shall  long  remember  the  week  which  I spent  as 
a passenger  in  her,  as  one  of  peculiar  incident  and  plea- 
sure. So  far  as  my  passage  had  been  offered  me  as 
an  act  of  courtesy,  I now  had  an  opportunity  to  repay 
it,  as  I repeatedly  enjoyed  the  pleasure  of  meeting  the 
gentlemen  with  whom  I had  become  acquainted,  during 
their  stay  in  port. 

On  becoming  again  established  at  Rio  de  Janeiro, 
in  connection  with  my  worthy  colleague,  Rev.  Mr. 
Spaulding,  our  attention  was  specially  directed  to  the 
benefit  of  the  numerous  English  and  American  seamen 
visiting  that  port.  Mr.  Spaulding  had  maintained  the 
Bethel  service  with  great  regularity  and  effect  during 
my  absence.  At  this  period  we  published  circulars, 
which  we  addressed  to  the  captain,  officers,  and  sea- 
men, of  each  vessel  that  entered  the  harbor,  informing 
them  where  the  Bethel  service  was  held,  and  inviting 
their  regular  attendance  during  their  stay  in  port ; at 
the  same  time  presenting  them  considerations  why 
they  should  avail  themselves  of  such  religious  privi- 
leges. The  dissemination  of  this  circular  was  followed 

2 E 


350 


BETHEL  SERVICES. 


by  increased  interest  in  the  subject  to  which  it  invited 
attention. 

Nothing  could  exceed  the  order  and  solemnity  of  the 
assemblies  which  gathered  together  each  Sabbath 
morning,  on  the  deck  of  some  noble  vessel,  at  whose 
mainmast  the  emblem  of  peace  and  mercy  was  floating 
in  the  breeze.  We  generally  found  the  vessel,  desig- 
nated for  the  time  being  as  the  Bethel  ship,  arranged 
and  decorated  in  the  most  tasteful  manner,  with  seats 
to  accommodate  all  who  might  choose  to  come  and 
worship  God.  How  delightful  was  it  to  see  boatload 
after  boatload  of  seamen  coming  alongside  for  this 
noble  object;  men  who,  but  for  such  an  opportunity, 
would  be  seeking  recreation  on  shore,  exposed  to  all 
the  temptations  of  vice,  and  the  snares  of  sin ! How 
sublime  were  the  sentiments  inspired  by  such  a scene, 
especially  in  such  a place!  The  brilliant  sky,  the  lofty 
mountains,  and  the  swelling  tide  of  the  ocean,  could 
not  fail,  at  any  time,  deeply  to  impress  the  thoughtful 
mind;  but  when,  surrounded  by  all  these  objects,  it  was 
our  privilege  also  to  witness,  in  a company  of  seamen, 
the  attention  of  the  soul  fixed  upon  eternal  things,  and 
indicated  by  the  heaving  breast,  the  falling  tear,  and 
the  unconcealed  resolve,  ours  was  no  ordinary  pleasure. 

We  had  the  satisfaction  of  organizing  a Seamen’s 
Temperance  Society,  and  finding  numbers  interested 
in  its  worthy  objects.  It  was  also  our  good  fortune  at 
that  period,  to  have  these  efforts  seconded  by  the  active 
and  efficient  co-operation  of  an  officer  of  the  United 
States  navy,  who  has  since  died,  but  who  will  long  be 
remembered  as  a philanthropist  and  a Christian.* 

Nor  were  our  labors  confined  to  merchant  vessels, 


* Lieutenant  Mooers. 


OCCASIONS  FOR  USEFULNESS.  351 

or  to  the  Sabbath  day.  We  were  occasionally  invited 
to  preach  on  board  American  ships  of  war,  and  from 
time  to  time  we  took  occasion  to  pass  through  the 
whole  crowd  of  vessels  upon  the  receiving  anchorage, 
and  visit  one  after  another,  to  converse  with  those  on 
board,  and  to  leave  behind  us  tracts  and  other  memen- 
toes of  our  Christian  friendship.  These  labors  were 
bread  thrown  upon  the  waters,  for  which  we  doubted 
not  the  promise  was  sure,  that  it  should  be  found  after 
many  days.  Various  interesting  circumstances  also 
occurred  on  shore,  by  which  new  occasions  of  useful- 
ness in  the  country  at  large  were  opened  before  us. 
We  now  had  correspondents  along  the  whole  coast. 
During  my  late  tour  I had  been  enabled  to  put  in  cir- 
culation many  copies  of  the  Holy  Scriptures,  and  about 
sixty  thousand  pages  of  religious  tracts.  Besides  this, 
I had  left  Scriptures  for  sale,  and  tracts  for  distribution, 
in  the  principal  places.  Thus,  by  the  establishment  of 
depositories  in  the  maritime  towns,  where  the  Scrip- 
tures could  be  procured  by  persons  from  every  part  of 
the  interior  between  S.  Paulo  and  Para,  a great  step 
was  taken  toward  offering  the  word  of  God  to  the  en- 
tire  nation,  and  inviting  the  inhabitants  generally  to 
receive  it. 

We  now  began  to  take  active  measures  to  establish 
preaching  in  the  Portuguese  language  at  Rio.  I was 
engaged  in  preparing  a series  of  discourses,  which  I 
hoped  soon  to  commence  delivering.  It  was  at  this 
most  interesting  juncture,  that  my  labors  in  Brazil 
were  suddenly  interrupted  by  a most  painful  bereave- 
ment. My  beloved  wife  was  smitten  by  the  cruel  hand 
of  disease,  and  in  a few  days  was  consigned  to  an  early 
grave.  She  was  cut  down  in  the  midst  of  a field  of 


352 


MELANCHOLY  BEREAVEMENT. 


usefulness,  for  which  she  had  become  peculiarly  quali- 
fied. Her  willing  and  faithful  services  in  “the  work 
whereunto  she  was  sent,”  were  suddenly  and  fatally 
checked  by  the  unlooked-for  approach  of  death.  But 
she  died  as  she  had  lived,  an  humble,  devoted  Chris- 
tian; and  in  her  final  hour  triumphed  over  the  last 
enemy,  by  failing  “asleep  in  Jesus” — that  Saviour, 

“ For  the  light  of  whose  smile  in  the  heaven  of  love,” 

her  warm  heart  continually  aspired.  Iler  precious 
memory  will  be  long  and  fondly  cherished  upon  earth, 
but  her  “record  is  on  high.”  Her  resting-place  was 
not  found,  as  she  had  once  poetically  desired  it  might 
be,  in  the  caverns  of  “the  deep  blue  sea,”  but  in  the 
Protestant  burial  ground  of  Rio  de  Janeiro.  Her  re- 
mains were  entombed  in  the  Cemetery  of  Gamboa,  a 
handsome  declivity  in  the  northern  suburbs  of  the  city, 
bordering  upon  the  bay. 

But  for  its  melancholy  associations,  this  spot  would 
be  regarded  as  one  of  the  loveliest  on  earth.  At  its 
rocky  base  the  tides  of  the  ocean  cease  not  to  ebb  and 
flow.  A shaded  avenue  leads  upward  from  the  sea 
beach  to  the  center  of  the  enclosure,  where  memorials 
of  the  dead  stand  thick  on  every  side.  As  the  stranger 
lifts  his  eye  towards  the  northern  horizon,  he  beholds 
a magnificent  bay,  spotted  with  islands,  and  hemmed 
in  by  lofty  mountain  peaks — while  all  around  him  vege- 
tation is  smiling  in  fadeless  verdure,  and  fanned  by  the 
daily  breezes  of  the  tropics.  This  bereavement,  like 
the  untimely  winds  of  autumn,  swept  many  tender 
blossoms  of  hope  and  promise  for  ever  away.  It  im- 
posed upon  me  the  imperious  necessity  of  a speedy 
embarkation  for  the  United  States,  as  a hopeful  means 


GAMBOA. 


353 


ENGLISH  CEMETERY. 


of  preserving  the  life  of  an  infant  son.  A month 
elapsed,  and  I spent  another  night  on  board  a vessel 
in  the  harbor  preparatory  to  sailing. 

What  a contrast  did  I experience  in  my  feelings  and 
condition,  to  the  circumstances  under  which  I had,  five 
months  previously,  occupied  nearly  the  same  position 
on  board  the  Orientale.  The  same  star-lit  heavens 
were  over  me,  the  same  glassy  waters  beneath,  the 
same  giant  mountains,  and  the  same  extended  city 
before  and  around  me.  But  yet  how  changed  the 
scene!  Before,  my  mind  was  filled  with  expectation 
and  joyous  hope,  but  now  it  was  desolated  with  sad 
remembrances  and  overwhelming  sorrow. 

Vol.  II.— 45  2 e 2 


354 


CONDITION  OF  POLITICAL  PARTIES. 


CHAPTER  XX. 

Condition  of  Political  Parties  before  the  Revolution  of  1840. — Debates 
in  the  House  of  Deputies. — Attempt  at  Prorogation. — Movement  of 
Antonio  Carlos. — Co-operation  of  the  Senate. — Deputation  to  the 
Emperor. — Permanent  Session. — Acclamation  of  Don  Pedro’s  ma- 
jority.— Imperial  Oath. — The  Assembly’s  Proclamation. — Rejoic- 
ings.— New  Ministry. — Public  Congratulations. 

The  year  1840  was  signalized  in  Brazil  by  a new 
and  startling  political  revolution,  which  resulted  in  the 
abolition  of  the  regency.  The  Emperor,  Don  Pedro  II., 
was  now  in  his  fifteenth  year ; and  the  political  party 
opposed  to  the  regent  and  the  existing  ministry, 
espoused  the  project  of  declaring  his  minority  expired, 
and  of  elevating  him  at  once  to  the  full  possession  of 
his  throne.  This  project  had  been  occasionally  dis- 
cussed during  the  last  five  years.  But  it  had  always 
been  characterized  as  premature  and  absurd.  The 
constitution  limited  the  minority  of  the  sovereign  at 
eighteen  years,  and  that  was  thought  early  enough  for 
any  young  man  to  have  the  task  of  governing  so  vast 
an  empire.  As  to  responsibility,  the  constitution  ex- 
pressly provided  that  none  should  attach  itself  to  the 
Emperor  under  any  circumstances.  Hence  an  aboli- 
tion of  the  regency  would,  as  matter  of  course,  devolve 
the  powers  of  the  regent  upon  some  other  officer. 
There  would  be  one  difference,  however.  The  regent, 
as  such,  enjoyed  the  privileges  of  royalty  itself,  being 
also  perfectly  irresponsible.  This  circumstance  was 
urged  as  a great  and  growing  evil.  However  desira- 
ble it  was  for  a sovereign  to  possess  the  attribute  of 


PUBLIC  DEBATES. 


355 


irresponsibility,  it  was  a dangerous  thing  for  a citizen, 
accidentally  elevated  to  office,  to  have  the  power  of 
dispensing  good  and  evil  to  his  country  without  expect- 
ing to  answer  for  his  conduct.  As  these  subjects  were 
discussed  much  feeling  was  aroused,  but  the  best  in- 
formed persons  supposed  that  the  regent  would  be 
able  to  defeat  the  plan  laid  for  his  overthrow. 

The  debate  upon  the  motion  in  the  house  of  depu- 
ties, to  declare  the  Emperor  of  age,  began  early  in 
July,  and  at  first  turned  principally  upon  constitutional 
objections.  The  legislature  had,  in  fact,  no  power  to 
amend  or  overstep  the  constitution.  But  the  plan  was 
arranged,  minds  were  heated,  and  the  passions  of  the 
people  began  to  be  enlisted.  Violence  of  language 
prevailed,  and  personal  violence  began  to  be  threaten- 
ed. Antonio  Carlos  de  Andrada,  already  described  as 
a man  of  great  learning  and  eloquence,  but  at  the 
same  time  fiery  and  uncontrolable,  stood  forth  as  the 
champion  of  the  assailing  party,  accusing  the  regent 
and  his  ministry  of  usurpation,  especially  since  the 
11th  of  March,  when  the  imperial  princess,  Donna 
Januaria,  became  of  age.  His  efforts  were  powerfully 
resisted,  but  his  cause  rapidly  gained  favor  both  in  the 
Assembly  and  among  the  people. 

Galvao,  until  recently  attached  to  the  other  party, 
made  an  impressive  speech  on  the  side  of  immediate 
acclamation  as  inevitable. 

Alvares  Machado  demanded  that  party  trammels 
should  now  be  abandoned.  “ The  cause  of  the  Em- 
peror was  the  cause  of  the  nation,  and  ought  to  receive 
the  approbation  of  every  lover  of  the  country.” 

Navarro,  a young  but  powerful  member  from  Matto 
Grosso,  followed  in  a violent  and  denunciatory  speech, 


356 


GREAT  EXCITEMENT. 


in  which  he  stigmatized  the  regent,  and  all  his  acts, 
in  the  most  opprobrious  language.  While  in  the  heat 
of  his  harangue,  he  suddenly  exclaimed,  Viva  a maio- 
riilade  de  sua  majestade  imperial!  The  crowded  gal- 
leries had  hitherto  observed  the  most  religious  silence, 
but  this  exclamation  drew  forth  a burst  of  enthusiastic 
and  prolonged  applause.  Navarro,  no  longer  able  to 
make  himself  heard,  drew  his  handkerchief  from  his 
bosom  to  respond  to  the  vivas  from  the  gallery.  Mem- 
bers of  the  other  party  sitting  near  him,  imagined  they 
saw  a dagger  gleaming  in  his  hand,  and  not  knowing 
whose  turn  might  come  first,  began  to  flee  for  their 
lives.  One  seized  Navarro  to  keep  him  quiet;  but  he, 
not  perceiving  the  reason  of  the  assault,  furiously  repel- 
led it.  For  a few  moments  the  most  intense  and  un- 
controlable  excitement  prevailed,  but  order  was  soon 
restored. 

Crowds  of  people  now  assembled  out  of  doors, 
demanding  the  elevation  of  the  young  Emperor.  Some 
went  so  far  as  to  proclaim  his  majority  in  the  public 
squares  of  the  city.  The  ministerial  party  desperately 
resisted  these  strange  movements  in  the  house,  but 
they  were  unable  to  stave  off  the  debate. 

Eimpo  de  Abreo,  an  ex-minister,  was  in  favor  of 
the  revolution,  but  he  wished  it  to  be  a deliberate  and 
consistent  one,  at  least  preceded  by  the  report  of  a 
committee  justifying  the  step.  After  much  opposition 
to  the  measure  the  committee  was  appointed,  and  a 
momentary  calm  ensued.  During  the  night  both  par- 
ties reviewed  their  positions.  The  clubs  and  lodges 
held  their  sessions,  and  the  opposition  met  in  caucus. 
The  regent,  and  his  ministry,  were  also  in  conclave. 
Vasconcellos,  a senator  from  Minas  Geraes,  a veteran 


ATTEMPT  AT  PROROGATION. 


357 


politician,  but  a man  who  had  long  been  obnoxious  on 
account  of  great  moral  delinquencies,  was  called  in  as 
their  counsellor. 

The  session  of  the  chamber  of  deputies  next  day 
was  opened  in  the  midst  of  the  deepest  anxiety.  The 
galleries  were  crowded  with  people.  The  report  of 
the  committee  was  anxiously  looked  for,  and  indeed 
imperiously  demanded,  but  did  not  appear. 

Navarro  accused  the  majority  of  the  committee  of 
treacherously  intending  delay.  He  urged  the  imme- 
diate and  unceremonious  declaration  of  the  Emperor’s 
majority.  lie  appealed  to  the  galleries,  and  received 
a deafening  response  of  vivas  to  Don  Pedro  II.  Inde- 
scribable confusion  ensued.  The  president  of  the  cham- 
ber attempted  to  call  up  the  order  of  the  day,  but  it 
was  impossible.  The  absorbing  question  must  be  dis- 
cussed. The  more  moderate  of  the  opposition  wished 
the  young  Emperor’s  elevation  deferred  till  his  birth- 
day, the  2d  of  December.  The  more  violent  exclaim- 
ed vehemently  against  any  delay  whatever.  The  debate 
was  protracted  to  an  unusual  length.  In  the  midst  of 
it  a messenger  entered  bearing  documents  from  the  re- 
gent.  They  were  read  by  the  secretary.  The  first  was 
a nomination  of  Bernardo  Pereira  de  Vasconcellos  as 
minister  of  the  empire.  At  the  mention  of  the  name 
of  Vasconcellos  irrepressible  sensations  of  indignation 
were  apparent  throughout  the  house.  The  secretary 
proceeded  to  read  the  second  document,  which  proved 
to  be  an  act  of  prorogation,  adjourning  the  General 
Assembly  over  from  that  moment  to  the  20th  of  No- 
vember following. 

Confusion  and  indignation  were  now  at  their  height. 
The  people  in  the  galleries  could  not  be  restrained. 


358  DEPUTATION  TO  THE  EMPEROR. 

They  poured  down  a torrent  of  imprecations  upon  the 
administration,  mingled  with  vivas  to  the  majority  of 
Don  Pedro  II.  Antonio  Carlos,  Martin  Francisco, 
Limpo  de  Abreo,  sprang  to  their  feet,  and  one  after 
the  other  entered  their  vehement  protests  against  this 
act  of  madness  on  the  part  of  the  government.  They 
charged  the  regent  with  treason,  and  declared  that 
every  Brazilian  should  resist  his  high-handed  measures. 
They  represented  Lima  as  clutching,  with  a death 
grasp,  the  power  that  was  about  to  escape  from  his 
hand.  They  denounced  him  as  a usurper,  willing  to 
sacrifice  the  monarch  and  the  throne,  at  the  hazard 
of  lighting  up  the  flames  of  civil  war  in  every  corner 
of  the  empire.  Vasconcellos  was  portrayed  as  a mon- 
ster, whose  name  was  significant  of  every  vice  and 
crime,  and  withal  the  worst  enemy  the  Emperor  had; 
but  it  was  into  his  hands  that  the  young  monarch  was 
now  betrayed! 

The  president  of  the  house  attempted  to  enforce  the 
act  of  prorogation,  but  was  prevented.  Antonio  Carlos 
now  started  forth,  and  called  upon  every  Brazilian 
patriot  to  follow  him  to  the  halls  of  the  senate.  His 
friends  in  the  house,  and  the  people  en  masse,  accom- 
panied him.  The  multitude  increased  at  every  step. 
On  the  arrival  of  the  deputies  at  the  senate  the  two 
houses  instantly  resolved  themselves  into  joint  session, 
and  appointed  a deputation,  with  Antonio  Carlos  at  its 
head,  to  wait  upon  the  Emperor  and  obtain  his  consent 
to  the  acclamation.  During  the  absence  of  the  depu- 
tation several  of  the  senators  endeavored  to  calm  the 
passions  of  the  people.  The  multitude  without  had 
increased  to  the  number  of  several  thousand.  No  sol- 
diers appeared,  but  the  cadets  of  the  military  academy, 


POPULAR  ENTHUSIASM. 


359 


in  the  heat  of  their  juvenile  enthusiasm,  rushed  to 
arms,  and  prepared  to  defend  their  sovereign. 

Presently  the  deputation  returned,  and  announced 
that  after  its  members  had  represented  to  the  Emperor 
the  state  of  affairs  which  existed  at  the  present  crisis, 
his  Majesty  had  consented  to  assume  the  reins  of  go- 
vernment, and  had  ordered  the  regent  to  revoke  his 
obnoxious  decrees,  and  to  pronounce  the  chambers 
again  in  session.  Thunders  of  applause  followed  this 
announcement.  The  enthusiasm  of  the  people  knew 
no  bounds.  The  country  was  saved,  and  no  blood 
was  shed ! The  citizens  proceeded  to  congratulate 
one  another  upon  this  peaceful  triumph  of  public  opi- 
nion. 

The  discussions  of  the  Assembly  turned  upon  the 
manner  of  consummating  the  revolution  which  had  thus 
singularly  commenced.  Lima  was  now  stigmatized 
as  the  ex-regent,  and  was  pronounced  incompetent  to 
reassemble  the  body  which  he  had  tried  to  prorogue. 
The  Marquis  of  Paranagua,  president  of  the  senate, 
declared  that  neither  house  was  now  in  session,  but 
that  the  members  of  both  composed  an  august  popu- 
lar assemblage,  personifying  the  nation,  demanding 
that  their  Emperor  be  considered  no  longer  a minor. 
It  was  finally  resolved  to  remain  in  permanent  session 
until  his  Majesty  should  appear  and  receive  the  oath 
prescribed  by  the  constitution  in  their  presence.  The 
Assembly  consequently  remained  in  the  senate-house 
all  night.  A body  of  the  national  guards,  the  alumni 
of  the  military  academy,  and  numerous  citizens,  also 
remained  to  guard  them. 

At  daylight  the  people  generally  began  to  reassem- 
ble. By  ten  o’clock  not  less  than  eight  or  ten  thousand 


360 


MAJORITY  OF  THE  EMPEROR. 


of  the  most  respectable  citizens  surrounded  the  palace 
of  the  senate.  At  ten  o’clock  the  president  of  the  As- 
sembly made  a formal  declaration  of  the  objects  of  the 
present  convocation.  The  rolls  of  both  houses  were 
then  called,  and  the  legal  number,  both  of  senators  and 
of  deputies,  being  found  present,  the  president  arose 
and  said : 

“I,  as  the  organ  of  the  representatives  of  this  nation 
in  General  Assembly  convened,  declare  that  his  Ma- 
jesty, Don  Pedro  II.,  is  from  this  moment  in  his  ma- 
jority, and  in  the  full  exercise  of  his  constitutional 
prerogatives.  The  majority  of  his  Majesty  Senhor 
Don  Pedro  II.!  Viva  Senhor  Don  Pedro  II.,  constitu- 
tional Emperor  and  perpetual  defender  of  Brazil ! ! 
Viva  Senhor  Don  Pedro  II. ! ! !” 

Millions  of  vivas  from  the  members  of  the  Assembly, 
from  the  spectators  in  the  gallery,  and  from  the  multi- 
tude in  the  campo,  now  rent  the  air  in  response,  and 
were  prolonged  with  indescribable  enthusiasm  and 
delight.  Deputations  were  appointed  to  wait  upon 
his  Majesty  when  he  should  arrive,  and  to  prepare  a 
proclamation  to  the  empire.  At  half-past  three  o’clock 
the  imperial  escort  appeared.  II is  Majesty  was  pre- 
ceded by  the  dignitaries  of  the  palace,  and  followed  by 
his  imperial  sisters.  II is  tutor  occupied  a place  in  the 
same  carriage  with  himself.  On  beholding  the  young 
Emperor  the  enthusiasm  of  the  crowd  exceeded  any 
former  limit.  Nothing  but  a reiteration  of  vivas  could 
be  heard  in  the  campo  during  the  whole  ceremony. 
His  Majesty  was  received  with  all  possible  formality, 
and  conducted  1o  the  throne,  near  which  the  members 
of  the  diplomatic  corps  were  already  seated  in  their 
court  uniform.  The  Emperor  now  knelt  down  and 


IMPERIAL  OATH. 


361 


received  the  oath  prescribed  by  the  constitution,  where- 
upon was  read  aloud  and  solemnly  signed,  the  following 
AUTO  DE  JURAMENTO. 

“Know  all  men  to  whom  this  public  instrument 
shall  come,  that  on  the  twenty-third  day  of  July,  in 
the  year  of  our  Lord  1840,  and  in  the  twenty-ninth 
year  of  the  independence  of  the  empire  of  Brazil,  in 
this  most  loyal  and  heroic  city  of  Rio  de  Janeiro,  in  the 
palace  of  the  senate,  and  in  the  presence  of  both  houses 
of  the  imperial  legislature,  to  wit — thirty-three  mem- 
bers of  the  senate,  and  eighty-four  deputies,  under  the 
presidency  of  his  excellency  the  Marquis  of  Parana- 
gua,  assembled  in  order  to  witness  the  fulfillment  of  the 
one  hundred  and  third  article  of  the  constitution:  being 
also  present,  his  Imperial  Majesty  Senhor  Don  Pedro- 
de-Alcantara-Joao-Carlos-Leopoldo-Salvador-Bibiano- 
F rancisco-Xavier-de-Paula-Leucadio-Mi<juel-Gabriel- 
Raphael  Gonzaga,  second  Emperor  and  perpetual 
defender  of  Brazil,  the  legitimate  son  and  first  heir  of 
the  late  Emperor,  Don  Pedro  I.,  and  of  the  late  Em- 
press, Donna  Maria-Leopoldina-Josefa-Carolina,  arch- 
duchess of  Austria.  The  most  excellent  president  of 
this  Assembly  having  offered  the  Emperor  a missal, 
the  latter  laid  his  hand  upon  it,  and  recited  in  an  audi- 
ble voice  the  following  constitutional  oath: — ‘I  swear 
to  maintain  the  Roman  Catholic  Apostolic  religion, 
and  the  integrity  and  indivisibility  of  the  empire ; to 
observe,  and  to  cause  to  be  observed,  the  constitution 
and  the  laws  of  the  Brazilian  nation,  and  to  promote 
the  general  well  being  of  Brazil  by  every  means  in  my 
power.’  Wherefore,  in  perpetual  memory  of  this  event, 
duplicates  of  this  document  are  signed  and  wit- 
nessed,” Ac.  Ac. 

Vol.  II.— 46  2 F 


362  PROCLAMATION  OF  THE  ASSEMBLY. 

The  proclamation  already  drafted  by  Antonio  Carlos, 
and  approved  by  the  Assembly,  was  now  uttered: 

“ Brazilians  ! — The  General  Legislative  Assembly 
of  Brazil,  recognizing  that  happy  intellectual  develop- 
ment with  which  it  has  pleased  Divine  Providence  to 
endow  his  Imperial  Majesty  Don  Pedro  II.,  recognizing 
also,  the  inherent  evils  which  attach  themselves  to  an 
unsettled  government;  witnessing,  moreover,  the  una- 
nimous desire  of  the  people  of  this  capital,  which  it 
believes  to  be  in  perfect  accordance  with  the  desire  of 
the  whole  empire,  viz.  to  confer  upon  our  august  mo- 
narch the  powers  which  the  constitution  secures  to  him  ; 
therefore,  in  view  of  such  important  considerations,  this 
body  has,  for  the  well  being  of  the  country,  seen  fit  to 
declare  the  majority  of  Don  Pedro  II.,  so  that  he  may 
enter  at  once  upon  the  full  exercise  of  his  powers  as 
constitutional  Emperor  and  perpetual  defender  of  Bra- 
zil. Our  august  monarch  has  just  taken  in  our  pre- 
sence the  solemn  oath  required  by  the  constitution. 

“ Brazilians ! The  hopes  of  the  nation  are  converted 
into  reality.  A new  era  has  dawned  upon  us.  May  it 
be  one  of  uninterrupted  union  and  prosperity.  May  we 
prove  worthy  of  so  great  a blessing!” 

After  the  ceremonies  of  the  occasion  had  been  com- 
plied with,  his  Majesty  proceeded  to  the  city  palace, 
accompanied  by  the  national  guards  and  the  people. 
In  the  evening  a numerous  and  brilliant  cortejo  took 
place,  and  the  joy  of  the  whole  city  was  manifested  by 
a spontaneous  but  almost  universal  illumination. 

To  the  astonishment  of  every  one,  the  revolution 
was  now  complete.  The  regency  was  abolished.  Per- 
fect tranquillity  prevailed;  and  Don  Pedro  II.,  the  boy 
who,  when  six  years  old,  had  been  acclaimed  sovereign 


NEW  MINISTRY. 


363 


of  one  of  the  largest  empires  in  the  world,  was  now,  at 
fourteen  and  a half,  invested  with  all  the  prerogatives 
of  his  imperial  throne. 

On  the  twenty-fourth  day  of  July,  the  new  ministry 
was  organized  in  the  following  order : — 

Departments.  Ministers. 

Empire,  - Antonio  Carlos  Ribeiro  d’Andrada 
Machado. 

Finance,  - Martin  Francisco  Ribeiro  d’Andrada. 
Foreign  Affairs,  Aureliano  de  Souza  Oliveira  Coutinho. 
Justice,  - Antonio  Paulino  Limpo  d’Abrco. 

Marine,  - Antonio  Francisco  de  Paula  Hollanda 

Cavalcanti. 

War,  - Francisco  de  Paula  Cavalcanti  d’ Al- 
buquerque. 

On  the  twenty-sixth,  a Te  Deum  was  celebrated  in 
the  imperial  chapel,  in  commemoration  of  the  late 
events.  It  was  followed  by  a levee  in  the  palace,  at 
which  the  diplomatic  corps  complimented  the  Emperor  in 
the  following  address,  delivered  by  the  Baron  of  Rouen, 
minister  of  France,  and  the  senior  member  of  that  body. 

“Senhor: — The  members  of  the  diplomatic  corps, 
accredited  at  this  court,  have  the  honor  to  present  you 
the  homage  of  their  profound  respect. 

“It  is  with  the  deepest  solicitude  that  they  come,  on 
this  memorable  day,  to  mingle  their  congratulations 
with  those  of  your  own  subjects  that  have  already  been 
presented  before  your  throne,  and  to  express,  in  behalf 
of  the  sovereigns  and  the  governments  which  they  have 
the  honor  respectively  to  represent,  those  desires  w hich 
they  will  never  cease  to  cherish  for  the  glory  of  your 
reign,  for  the  happiness  of  your  august  family,  and  for 
the  prosperity  of  Brazil.” 


364 


ADDRESS  OF  THE  SENATE. 


Congratulations,  expressed  in  similar  terms,  now  be- 
came the  order  of  the  day.  Every  society,  every  public 
institution,  every  province,  and  nearly  every  town,  from 
the  capital  to  the  circumference  of  the  empire,  hasten- 
ed, on  the  reception  of  the  news,  not  only  to  celebrate 
the  event  with  extravagant  rejoicing,  but  also  to  send 
a deputation,  to  utter,  in  the  presence  of  the  Emperor, 
their  most  profound  sentiments  of  joy  at  his  elevation 
to  the  sovereignty,  and  their  cherished  hopes  of  his 
prosperity  and  happiness. 

As  specimens  of  the  style  and  the  sentiments  used 
on  these  occasions,  the  reader  is  presented  with  two 
translations.  The  first  is  the  official  address  of  the 
senate,  presented  to  his  Majesty  by  a special  deputa- 
tion on  the  twenty-eighth  of  July. 

“Senhor: — The  senate,  impelled  by  the  most  ele- 
vated patriotism,  transported  with  the  most  sincere 
pleasure,  in  view  of  the  favor  which  your  imperial 
Majesty  has  just  condescended  to  confer  upon  the  em- 
pire, by  entering  at  once  upon  the  full  exercise  of  your 
inalienable  rights,  has  sent  us  in  solemn  deputation  to 
congratulate  your  imperial  Majesty  upon  the  memora- 
ble event  which  fills  your  Majesty’s  subjects  with  con- 
fidence and  delight. 

“If  Brazil  has  received,  from  your  renowned  ances- 
tors, since  the  days  of  king  Don  Manoel,  benefits,  which, 
progressively  increasing  up  to  the  time  when  the  cry 
of  independence  was  first  uttered  at  Ypiranga  by  the 
hero  of  both  the  Old  and  New  Worlds,  enabled  her  at 
length  to  become  a free  nation,  much  stronger  hopes 
of  future  glory  do  the  Brazilians  discover,  in  the  pa- 
triotism of  your  imperial  Majesty. 

“Divine  Providence  has  endowed  you  with  a great 


emperor’s  reply. 


365 


and  a magnanimous  heart;  and  in  his  eternal  wisdom 
has  destined  you  to  rule  over  the  empire  of  Santa  Cruz. 
He,  for  our  greater  good,  has  in  a wonderful  manner 
overruled  the  late  unlooked-for  events,  so  as  to  bring 
your  Majesty  before  your  subjects  like  a brilliant  sun 
emerging  from  portentous  clouds,  and  causing  unmin- 
gled happiness. 

“May  the  government  of  your  imperial  Majesty 
serve  as  a polar  star,  to  illumine  all  America,  and  to 
guide  the  inhabitants  of  this  great  continent  in  the  path 
of  order  and  of  true  glory ! Deign,  therefore,  to  re- 
ceive kindly  the  sincere  well-wishes  of  the  senate — 
they  are  those  of  the  nation  itself.  Heaven  grant,  that 
the  precious  days  of  your  imperial  Majesty  may  run  on 
through  many  and  happy  years,  so  that  national  liberty 
may  be  maintained,  and  the  true  prosperity  of  the 
empire  may  he  established.” 

To  this  fulsome  panegyric,  his  Majesty  modestly 
replied : — 

“I  am  very  grateful  for  the  sentiments  which  the 
senate  expresses  in  view  of  my  having  assumed  the 
exercise  of  my  constitutional  prerogatives. 

“Gentlemen,  you  may  assure  the  senate,  that  I shall 
endeavor  to  satisfy  the  desires  of  the  nation,  by  main- 
taining a harmony  between  ourselves  and  foreign 
powers,  by  sustaining  the  constitution  and  laws  of  the 
empire,  and  by  promoting  the  happiness  of  the  nation.” 

In  the  course  of  a month,  by  the  aid  of  steam,  the 
news  of  these  events  had  reached  Para.  The  provin- 
cial Assembly  was  in  session,  and  was  of  course  ready 
for  the  most  pompous  displays  of  loyalty.  A Te  Deum 
was  celebrated  forthwith,  and  an  orator  appointed,  who 
recited  the  following  discourse: — 

2 f 2 


366 


ADDRESS  AT  PARA. 


“Illustrious  deputies! — The  imperial  court  has  just 
been  the  theatre  of  an  event  of  the  most  interesting 
and  promising  character  for  Brazil.  The  people,  and 
their  representatives,  have  given  to  the  empire  and  to 
the  world  the  most  decisive  testimony  of  their  adhesion 
to  the  person  and  throne  of  his  Majesty  Don  Pedro  II., 
as  well  as  an  extraordinary  perception  of  the  wisdom 
and  virtues  which  eminently  distinguish  him. 

“ The  elevation  of  his  imperial  Majesty  to  the  throne, 
is  decreed  by  the  unanimous  declaration  of  the  people 
and  their  most  worthy  representatives.  The  fame  of 
this  glorious  event  has  resounded  throughout  the  pro- 
vinces of  the  empire,  and  we  now  perceive  the  star  of 
hope  beaming  brightly  over  us. 

“Gentlemen,  a most  important  era  has  occurred  in 
the  history  of  our  nation;  and  as  the  proper  organ  of 
the  people  of  Para,  let  us  employ  our  efforts  to  aid  the 
Emperor  in  the  grand  task  of  placing  Brazil  upon  a 
level  with  the  most  enlightened  nations  of  the  world.” 


REAL  STATE  OP  THINGS. 


367 


CHAPTER  XXI. 

Real  state  of  things. — Ministerial  Programme. — Progress  of  Affairs  — 
Preparations  for  the  Coronation. — Change  of  Ministry. — Opposition 
come  into  Power. — Coronation  Postponed. — Finally  took  place 
July  I8th,  1841. — Splendor  of  the  Occasion. — Financial  Embarrass- 
ments — Insignia. — Diplomacy. — Dissolution  of  the  Camara. — Pretext 
of  Outbreaks. — Council  of  State. — Reforms  of  Criminal  Code. — S. 
Paulo. — Minas. — The  Capital. — Restoration  of  Order. — Session  of 
the  Assembly. — Imperial  Marriages. — Ministerial  Change. — Politics 
in  1844. 

One  is  now  ready  to  inquire,  what  has  become  of 
party  spirit,  and  what  change  has  really  taken  place, 
to  awaken  such  unbounded  enthusiasm  ? 

The  answer  must  be  given,  that  party  spirit  is  as 
much  alive  as  ever ; but,  like  the  circumvented  spider, 
it  is  coiled  up  and  appears  to  be  dead,  until  there  shall 
be  some  prospect  of  successful  action.  A revolution  has 
indeed  transpired;  the  constitution  has  been  trampled 
under  foot ; but  it  is  a popular  revolution,  in  accordance 
with  the  inclination  of  the  people,  and  therefore  it  is  a 
glorious  event.  The  monarchical  principle  is  trium- 
phant ; but  it  has  become  so,  by  means  of  the  most  pal- 
pable mobocracy. 

On  the  twenty-ninth  of  July,  Senhor  Antonio  Carlos 
having  been  interrogated  on  the  subject,  made  a frank 
declaration  of  the  policy  and  principles  of  the  new  ad- 
ministration. His  speech  on  the  subject  was  eulogized 
at  the  time  as  one  of  the  most  lucid  and  complete  par- 
liamentary efforts  ever  made  in  Brazil.  It  summed 
up,  in  the  following  programme,  the  leading  principles 


368 


MINISTERIAL  PROGRAMME. 


upon  which  ministerial  action  would  be  based  under 
the  new  order  of  things  : — 

1.  Simplicity  in  the  plan  of  collecting,  and  economy 
in  the  disbursement,  of  the  public  revenues. 

2.  Scrupulous  respect  to  law  literally  constructed, 
and  a total  disregard  of  fanciful  interpretations. 

3.  Adhesion  to  existing  institutions,  and  a cautious 
use  of  executive  power. 

4.  Energetic  opposition  to  the  rebellion  of  Rio 
Grande,  but  a disposition  to  listen  to  any  overtures 
from  the  insurgents,  that  may  be  entertained  with  due 
respect  to  the  national  honor. 

5.  Conciliation  of  opposing  parties,  without  any  wa- 
vering to  accommodate  either. 

6.  Harmony  of  views  and  actions  between  the  govern- 
ment and  all  its  agents. 

7.  All  proper  means  to  induce  harmonious  action  in 
the  two  legislative  bodies,  but  no  resort  to  corruption 
or  intrigue. 

8.  Unanimity  in  the  cabinet  upon  all  questions  of 
moment. 

These  certainly  were  safe  and  consistent  principles; 
and  from  the  known  energy  of  the  Andradas,  together 
with  their  associates,  it  may  be  presumed  that  no  efforts 
were  spared  to  put  them  in  practice. 

The  nation  at  large  was  perfectly  exhilarated  with 
the  idea  of  the  glorious  revolution  that  had  transpired; 
but  the  legislature,  tired  by  its  recent  paroxysms,  soon 
fell  back  into  its  old  method  of  doing  business.  The 
first  leading  measure  of  the  opposition  was  the  appoint- 
ment of  a council  of  state,  to  hold  the  office  of  special 
advisers  to  the  Emperor.  It  became  an  immediate 
and  protracted  subject  of  discussion,  but  did  not  sue- 


PREPARATIONS  FOR  THE  CORONATION. 


369 


ceed  till  late  in  the  following  year.  Things  throughout 
the  empire  moved  on  in  their  ordinary  course,  save  that, 
when  the  subject  of  the  Emperor’s  elevation  lost  its 
novelty,  that  of  his  approaching  coronation  became  the 
theme  of  universal  interest  and  of  unbounded  anticipa- 
tion. 

The  early  part  of  the  year  1841  was  fixed  upon  for 
the  coronation.  Preparations  for  that  event  were  set 
on  foot  long  in  advance  of  the  time.  Expectants  of 
honors  and  emoluments  attempted  to  rival  each  other 
in  parade  and  display.  Extraordinary  embassies  were 
sent  out  from  the  different  courts  of  Europe,  in  compli- 
ment to  the  Brazilian  throne. 

While  diplomatists  and  politicians  were  intent  upon 
sharing  the  honors  of  this  occasion,  the  artisans  and 
shopkeepers  of  the  metropolis  displayed  quite  as  much 
tact  in  securing  the  profits  of  it.  Exhorbitant  prices 
were  demanded  for  every  article  of  ornament  and 
luxury;  but  those  articles  had  now  become  necessary, 
and  aspiring  poverty,  not  less  than  grudging  avarice, 
was  compelled  to  submit  to  extortion. 

Before  the  next  session  of  the  General  Assembly, 
difficulties  had  occurred  which  seriously  embarrassed 
the  administration.  Several  of  the  provinces  had  re- 
sisted the  new  appointments  of  presidents,  and  in  so 
doing  had  manifested  tendencies  to  revolution.  But  the 
most  serious  evil  grew  out  of  the  long-standing  rebel- 
lion in  Rio  Grande  do  Sul.  In  the  anxiety  of  the  cabinet 
to  bring  this  internal  war  to  a close,  Alvares  Machado 
had  been  appointed  an  agent  of  the  government  to 
treat  with  the  rebels.  Much  confidence  had  been  re- 
posed in  his  personal  influence  with  Bento  Gonsalvez 
and  others,  and  he  had  been  invested  with  extraordi- 

Vol.  II.— 47 


370 


MINISTRY  DISPLACED. 


nary  and  unconstitutional  powers.  But  with  all  the 
facilities  offered  them,  the  insurgents  refused  to  com- 
promise. Machado  was  then  appointed  president  of 
the  province. 

In  this  office,  instead  of  wielding  a rod  of  iron,  as 
his  predecessors  had  done,  or  had  attempted  to  do,  he 
adopted  conciliatory  measures,  and  rather  entreated  a 
negotiation.  This  attitude  was  stigmatised  as  dis- 
honorable to  the  empire,  and  such  an  outcry  was  made 
about  it,  as  to  excite  general  alarm  lest  the  interests 
of  the  throne  should  be  betrayed.  This  outcry  was 
aimed  at  the  ministry.  A change  was  demanded,  and 
was  at  length  obtained.  On  the  23d  of  March  the 
Andradas  and  their  friends,  with  the  single  exception 
of  Aurcliano,  were  dismissed. 

Araujo  Vianna,  a former  tutor  of  the  Emperor,  was 
appointed  at  the  head  of  the  new  cabinet.  Thus  we 
see,  that  the  men  who  had  brought  about  the  new  order 
of  things,  were  supplanted  just  in  time  for  their  oppo- 
nents to  secure  the  decorations  and  the  emoluments 
that  were  soon  to  be  distributed. 

Mortifying  as  this  circumstance  may  have  been  in 
some  of  its  bearings,  it  caused  no  grief  to  the  Andra- 
das in  view  of  their  personal  wishes.  They  could  point 
to  the  early  days  of  their  political  prosperity,  in  proof 
of  their  disinterested  devotion  to  their  country.  They 
could  now,  as  then,  retire  in  honorable  poverty,  pre- 
serving the  boast  of  pure  patriotism  as  a more  precious 
treasure  than  wealth  or  titles.  Theirs  was  the  dis- 
tinction that  would  cause  posterity  to  inquire  why  they 
did  not  receive  the  honors  they  had  deserved.  Other 
men  were  welcome  to  the  ignominy  of  wearing  titles 
they  had  never  merited. 


CORONATION  POSTPONED. 


37  L 


When  the  General  Assembly  convened  in  May,  it 
was  found  expedient  to  postpone  the  coronation.  Offices, 
orders,  and  honors,  were  sought  for  with  a meanness, 
and  an  urgency  of  solicitation,  at  once  disgraceful  and 
incredible.  It  was  thought  politic  to  keep  the  appli- 
cants in  suspense,  especially  those  who  were  in  the 
legislature.  In  the  meantime,  their  votes  might  all  be 
secured.  The  government  could  make  sure  of  its 
loans  and  votes  of  credit.  It  could  secure  a pardon 
for  past  extravagances,  and  an  amnesty  for  any  it  might 
choose  to  commit  in  future.  Besides  these  controlling 
motives,  there  were  others  of  quite  a frivolous  nature, 
that  nevertheless  had  their  weight.  The  imperial 
crown  had  been  sent  to  England  for  alteration,  and 
had  not  returned.  One  of  the  envoys  extraordinary  that 
was  expected  had  not  arrived,  and  moreover,  the  har- 
nesses for  seven  state  carriages  were  as  yet  unprovided. 

Thus,  for  two  months  longer,  the  anticipated  coro- 
nation continued  to  be  the  all-engrossing  topic  of 
conversation  and  of  preparation  in  every  circle,  from 
the  Emperor  and  princesses,  down  to  the  shoeless 
slaves.  That  anxiously  looked-for  event  transpired  at 
length,  on  the  18th  of  July,  1841.  It  was  magnificent 
beyond  the  expectations  of  the  most  sanguine.  The 
splendor  of  the  day  itself — the  unnumbered  thousands 
of  citizens  and  strangers  that  thronged  the  streets — the 
tasteful  and  costly  decorations  displayed  in  the  public 
squares,  and  in  front  of  private  houses — the  triumphal 
arches — the  pealing  salutes  of  music  and  of  cannon — 
the  perfect  order  and  tranquillity  that  prevailed  in  the 
public  processions  and  ceremonies  of  the  day,  together 
with  nearly  every  thing  else  that  could  be  imagined  or 
wished,  seemed  to  combine  and  make  the  occasion  one 


372 


SPLENDOR  OF  THE  CORONATION. 


of  the  most  imposing  that  ever  transpired  in  the  new 
world.  The  act  of  consecration  was  performed  in  the 
imperial  chapel,  and  was  followed  by  a levee  in  the 
palace  of  the  city.  The  illuminations  at  evening  were 
of  the  most  brilliant  kind,  and  the  festivities  of  the 
occasion  were  prolonged  nine  successive  days. 

So  far  as  pomp  and  parade  could  promote  the  sta- 
bility of  a government,  and  secure  a lasting  respect 
for  a crown,  every  thing  was  done  for  Brazil  on  that 
day,  that  possibly  could  be  done  without  greater  means 
at  command.  There  were  circumstances,  however, 
connected  with  the  monarchical  pomp  and  the  lavish 
expenditures  of  this  coronation,  which  could  not  fail  to 
be  very  embarrassing  to  those  who  had  to  struggle 
with  them.  The  finances  of  the  empire  wrere  at  the 
very  lowest  ebb,  and  constantly  deteriorating.  The 
money  used  in  support  of  this  grand  fete,  including  an 
expense  of  one  hundred  thousand  dollars  for  an  impe- 
rial crown,  was  borrowed,  and  added  to  an  immense 
public  debt.  In  addition  to  this,  the  government  was 
far  from  being  stable  and  settled.  Its  councils  were 
divided,  and  its  policy  vacillating.  The  existence  of 
this  state  of  things  formed  a principal  pretext  for  the 
splendid  demonstration  alluded  to.  It  was  thought  to 
be  an  object  of  the  first  importance  to  surround  the 
throne  with  such  a degree  of  splendor  as  would  for  ever 
hallow  it  in  the  eyes  of  the  people.  It  may  be  ques- 
tioned, however,  whether  this  very  policy,  instead  of 
consolidating  public  sentiment,  did  not  beget  a morbid 
fondness  for  scenes  of  extraordinary  ceremonies,  which 
would  only  be  satisfied  with  their  frequent  repetition. 

After  the  coronation,  the  sessions  of  the  General  As- 
sembly were  resumed.  On  the  23d  of  November  a law 


BERNARDO  PEREIRA  DE  VASCONCELLOS. 


INSIGNIA. 


373 


was  passed  establishing  the  Conselho  de  Estado.  This 
body  was  modelled  upon  the  double  basis  of  the  ordi- 
nary and  extraordinary  privy  council  of  Great  Britain. 
A list  of  the  gentlemen  nominated  to  compose  this 
council,  together  with  an  enumeration  of  the  titles  of 
nobility  conferred  after  the  coronation,  is  given  in  the 
Appendix,  Vol.  I.  By  consulting  those  lists,  the  reader 
will  perceive  that  Lima,  Calmon,  Carneiro  Leao,  and 
Vasconcellos,  the  very  individuals  who  opposed  the 
Andradas  at  the  period  of  the  young  Emperor’s  eleva- 
tion, and  who  were  then  put  down  by  acclamation,  had, 
in  the  short  space  of  a year,  not  only  managed  to  get 
back  into  public  favor,  but  also  to  secure  life  appoint- 
ments of  the  most  influential  kind. 

Vasconcellos,  it  is  true,  sought  for  no  titles.  They 
were  playthings  which  he  could  easily  dispense  with  for 
the  gratification  of  his  fellow  partisans.  But  he  loved 
power,  and  neither  mortifications  nor  defeat  deterred 
him  an  instant  from  its  pursuit.  He  finally  gained  a 
position  which  probably  suited  his  inclinations  better 
than  any  other,  and  in  which,  as  the  master  spirit  of 
the  body,  his  influence  must  be  widely  felt. 

It  deserves  mention  here,  that  the  honorable  insignia 
of  the  coronation  of  Don  Pedro  II.,  were  not  all  con- 
fined to  Brazilians.  A general  concession  of  orders 
and  stars  was  made  to  each  member  of  the  diplomatic 
corps  who  took  part  in  the  ceremonies,  and  whose  go- 
vernment allowed  the  acceptance  of  such  distinctions. 
The  individuals  prohibited  sharing  in  these  honors  by 
regulations  of  their  own  governments,  were  the  British 
minister,  and  the  representatives  of  the  several  Ameri- 
can republics. 

On  the  1st  of  January,  1842,  Mr.  Hunter,  United 

2 G 


374 


CORRUPT  ELECTIONS. 


States  charge  d’affaires  at  Rio  de  Janeiro,  presented 
to  his  Majesty  the  Emperor  his  credentials  as  envoy 
extraordinary  and  minister  plenipotentiary,  to  which 
rank  he  had  been  advanced.  This  compliment  was 
speedily  reciprocated  by  the  appointment  of  the  Hon. 
Mr.  Lisboa,  the  very  accomplished  and  worthy  minister 
of  Brazil  still  resident  at  Washington.  The  Brazilian 
government  maintains  a high  character  in  all  its  diplo- 
matic relations  abroad.  It  spares  no  expense  for  this 
object,  and  has  hitherto  had  the  good  fortune  to  be 
almost  universally  well  represented. 

In  continuance  of  the  present  historical  sketch  of 
Brazilian  affairs,  it  is  painful  to  add,  that  the  year 
1842  was  marked  by  repeated  and  serious  disturbances 
in  different  parts  of  the  empire.  They  commenced 
with  the  elections  for  deputies.  Various  frauds  had 
been  enacted,  by  suddenly  changing  the  day,  hour,  and 
places  of  elections.  What  was  worse,  bodies  of  troops 
and  armed  men  were  introduced  to  influence  votes, 
while  crowds  of  voters  were  brought  in  from  other  dis- 
tricts. In  short,  bribery,  corruption,  and  force,  triumph- 
ed over  the  free  exercise  of  public  opinion.  It  is  not 
to  be  presumed  that  one  party  was  guilty  of  these  mea- 
sures alone;  but  it  appeared  in  the  issue,  that  the  oppo- 
sition had  succeeded,  and  that  the  ministerial  party 
was  in  the  minority.  A change  of  administration 
would  have  been  an  immediate  consequence  of  the  regu- 
lar opening  of  the  session  on  the  3d  of  May.  This  the 
ministry  resolved  to  resist.  They  accordingly  drew  up 
solemn  papers,  advising  the  Emperor  to  dissolve  the 
chamber  of  deputies,  urging,  that  on  account  of  the 
illegality  of  the  elections,  it  could  not  be  a constitu- 
tional body.  The  preparatory  session  was  held  as 


PRETEXT  OF  OUTBREAKS. 


375 


usual,  and  proceeded  in  the  reception  of  credentials, 
with  no  great  scruple  as  to  the  manner  in  which  they 
had  been  obtained. 

This  circumstance  gave  plausibility  to  the  plea  urged 
by  the  ministers.  In  pursuance  of  the  plan  they  had 
marked  out,  his  Majesty  was  not  suffered  to  go  before 
the  Assembly  to  open  its  regular  session.  A decree 
was  now  issued  providing  for  new  elections,  and  an 
extraordinary  session,  to  commence  on  the  first  of 
January  following.  The  members  separated  without 
tumult ; but  the  month  of  May  had  not  gone  by  before 
the  alarms  of  rebellion  were  heard  in  parts  of  the  em- 
pire where  they  had  never  before  been  heard  or 
scarcely  dreaded. 

The  pretexts  of  the  new  outbreaks,  wrere  not  so  much 
the  violence  exercised  by  the  ministry  in  the  dissolution 
of  the  legislature,  as  complaints  against  the  organiza- 
tion of  the  council  of  state,  and  certain  changes  which 
had  recently  been  adopted  in  the  criminal  code  of  the 
empire.  The  former,  it  was  urged,  would  embarrass 
the  Emperor  and  effectually  tie  his  hands,  while  it 
would  enable  the  favorites  of  the  dominant  party  to 
revel  upon  the  funds  of  the  nation,  and  to  promote  their 
personal  views  and  interests  at  the  expense  of  the  peo- 
ple, and  beyond  the  possibility  of  change.  The  latter 
savored  of  tyranny  more  than  of  justice,  since  it  sacri- 
ficed the  rights  of  citizens,  and  placed  them  completely 
at  the  mercy  of  those  in  power. 

The  government,  on  the  other  hand,  urged  that  the 
council  of  state  was  necessary  to  strengthen  the  moral 
power  of  decisions  that  might  emanate  from  the  throne; 
to  shield  the  monarch  by  aid  of  its  responsibility;  to 
enlighten  his  views  by  experience  and  advice ; to  estab- 


376 


REBELLION. 


lish  a consistent  and  permanent  system  of  government, 
and  by  its  perpetuity,  to  counterbalance  the  evils  of 
frequent  ministerial  changes.  The  reforms  of  the 
criminal  code  were  no  less  called  for,  both  as  a means 
of  punishing  men  guilty  of  high  crimes,  and  of  main- 
taining order  against  the  agitations  of  factious  indivi- 
duals and  parties,  by  which  local  influences  were  so 
often  made  to  oppose  the  interests  of  the  general  go- 
vernment. 

The  first  notes  of  actual  rebellion  were  sounded  in 
the  province  of  S.  Paulo.  Plans  seemed  to  have  been 
concerted  for  a most  extensive  outbreak,  and  the  news 
of  the  dissolution  of  the  General  Assembly  served  as  a 
signal  for  action.  About  the  middle  of  May  a move- 
ment was  made  at  Sorocaba,  in  which  Senhor  Raphael 
Tobias  was  acclaimed  president,  in  opposition  to  the 
Baron  of  Monte  alegre,  his  legitimate  successor  in 
office.  Almost  simultaneously  with  this  event  the  rebel- 
lion manifested  itself  in  the  extreme  portions  of  the 
province,  north,  south,  and  west.  The  general  govern- 
ment made  a desperate  effort  to  repress  these  disorders 
at  once,  but  before  they  were  disposed  of,  notice 
arrived  of  similar  outbreaks  in  Minas  Geraes.  In  the 
latter  province  they  spread  with  frightful  rapidity,  first 
along  the  borders  of  the  province  of  Rio  de  Janeiro, 
and  then  throughout  the  most  populous  districts  of  the 
interior.  The  capital  was  thrown  into  the  utmost  con- 
sternation by  these  events.  What  was  most  alarming 
was  the  rumored  existence  of  the  prime  instigators  of 
the  rebellion  in  the  city  itself,  under  the  very  shadow 
of  the  throne. 

It  was  believed  that  schemes  were  concocted  for  a 
revolutionary  movement  at  the  very  seat  of  govern- 


RESTORATION  OF  ORDER. 


377 


ment.  Indeed,  on  the  17th  of  June,  an  incendiary  pro- 
clamation was  posted  up  at  the  corners  of  the  streets, 
calling  upon  the  people  to  free  the  Emperor  from  the 
domination  which  had  been  imposed  upon  him,  and 
to  rescue  both  the  throne  and  the  constitution  from 
threatened  annihilation. 

The  government  was  now  driv  en  to  extreme  mea- 
sures. The  militia  was  called  out,  and  martial  law 
was  proclaimed  in  the  three  disturbed  provinces.  An 
imperial  proclamation  was  issued,  declaring  that  the 
supremacy  of  the  laws  must  be  maintained  at  all  ha- 
zards, and  calling  upon  the  disaffected  to  lay  down 
their  arms.  Nineteen  persons,  in  the  capital,  were 
arrested  on  suspicion,  and  several  of  them  were  banish- 
ed the  empire  without  form  of  trial. 

About  the  same  time  revolutionary  movements  of  a 
somewhat  different  character  took  place  in  Pernam- 
buco and  Ceara.  The  prospects  of  the  empire  were, 
for  a short  time,  very  gloomy  and  unpromising;  but, 
by  degrees,  the  storm  blew  over.  Order  was  gradually 
restored  without  actual  hostilities,  or  the  loss  of  many 
lives.  The  worst  consequences  of  the  rebellion  were 
suffered  in  the  districts  where  it  occurred,  although 
public  confidence,  and  the  national  revenue,  suffered 
severely.  The  elections,  at  the  close  of  the  year,  tran- 
spired with  more  quietness  than  on  the  preceding  occa- 
sion, and  with  a somewhat  different  result.  The  legis- 
lative chambers  assembled  at  the  appointed  time,  and 
the  process  of  forming  the  camara,  and  verifying  the 
credentials  of  members,  was  completed  on  the  31st  of 
December. 

On  the  1st  of  January,  1843,  the  Emperor  opened 
the  General  Assembly  in  person,  and  by  joining  the 

Vol.  II.— 48  2 g 2 


378 


NEW  MINISTRY. 


ceremonies  of  that  act  with  the  usual  levee  of  new- 
year’s  day,  made  an  occasion  of  uncommon  splendor. 
Parties  had  now  become  intermingled,  and  old  distinc- 
tions were,  to  a considerable  extent,  destroyed. 

A competent  observer  has  remarked,  that  “ parties 
in  Brazil  are  not  true  parties — they  are  factions,  with- 
out definite  system  or  object.  Personal  antipathies 
and  predilections  spoil  all  sound  political  conceit  on 
either  side.” 

Notwithstanding  the  administration  had,  in  a great 
degree,  accomplished  its  object,  a new  ministry  was 
appointed  on  the  20th  of  January.  At  this  period 
Aureliano  was  displaced.  That  gentleman  had  direct- 
ed the  department  of  foreign  affairs  since  the  abolition 
of  the  regency.  He  was  succeeded  by  Soares  de 
Souza,  the  late  minister  of  justice. 

The  most  remarkable  public  events  that  transpired 
at  Rio  during  the  year  1843,  were  the  imperial  mar- 
riages. As  a matter  of  course  they  were  celebrated 
with  great  rejoicings  and  all  possible  splendor,  but  the 
purpose  of  this  work  will  be  answered  by  a simple 
mention  of  the  facts,  without  entering  into  those  details 
which,  however  interesting  to  courtiers,  and  to  the 
multitude  who  may  have  participated  in  them,  have 
no  intrinsic  importance,  and  will  be  little  inquired  after 
by  posterity. 

As  early  as  July,  1842,  the  Emperor,  Don  Pedro  II., 
had  ratified  a contract  of  marriage  with  her  royal  high- 
ness the  most  serene  Princess  Senhora  Donna  Thereza 
Christina  Maria,  the  august  sister  of  his  majesty  the 
king  of  the  two  Sicilies.  The  marriage  was  duly 
solemnized  at  Naples,  and  on  the  5th  of  March  a 
Brazilian  squadron,  composed  of  an  elegant  frigate 


IMPERIAL  MARRIAGES. 


379 


and  two  corvets,  sailed  from  Rio  de  Janeiro  to  the 
Mediterranean,  to  conduct  the  Empress  to  her  future 
home. 

In  the  meantime,  on  the  27th  of  March,  a French 
squadron  arrived,  under  the  command  of  his  royal 
highness  Prince  Joinville,  son  of  Louis  Phillippe,  king 
of  France.  This  was  Joinville’s  second  visit  to  Brazil. 
Soon  after  his  arrival  he  made  matrimonial  proposi- 
tions, through  the  Baron  of  Langsdorff,  the  special 
ambassador  of  the  king  of  France,  to  her  imperial  high- 
ness Donna  Francisca.*  The  customary  negotiations 
were  closed  with  dispatch.  On  the  1st  of  May  the 
marriage  was  solemnized  at  Boa  Vista.  On  the  13th 
of  May  the  prince,  and  his  imperial  bride,  sailed  for 
Europe. 

The  Empress,  Donna  Thereza,  arrived  at  Rio  on 
the  3d  of  September,  after  a prosperous  voyage  from 
Naples,  and  was  received  not  only  with  magnificent 
ceremonies,  but  also  with  sincere  cordiality  on  the  part 
of  the  Brazilians. 

It  may  be  mentioned  here,  that  on  the  28th  of  April, 
1844,  her  imperial  highness  Donna  Januaria,  was 
also  married  to  a Neapolitan  prince,  his  highness  the 
Count  of  Aquilla,  brother  of  the  Empress  of  Brazil, 
and  of  the  king  of  the  two  Sicilies.  Thus,  in  the 
course  of  a single  year,  the  imperial  family  of  Brazil 
cemented  honorable  and  flattering  alliances  with  two 
of  the  courts  of  Europe. 

Another  change  in  the  ministry  occurred  in  the 
early  part  of  1844.  The  regular  session  of  the  legis- 
lative Assembly  convened  on  the  3d  of  May,  and  pass- 
ed by  without  any  very  remarkable  occurrence.  The 


* Vide  Appendix,  Vol.  I.  p.  360. 


3S0 


SERIOUS  DISTURBANCES. 


same  body  was  ordered  to  convene  on  the  1st  of  Janu- 
ary, 1845.  The  elections,  which  took  place  prepara- 
tory to  this  extra  session,  were  attended  with  serious 
disturbances  in  several  of  the  provinces,  particularly 
in  Alagoas.  The  president  of  that  province,  Senhor 
Franco,  the  same  individual  who  presided  in  Para 
during  my  visit  there,  wras  driven  from  the  city  of 
Maceio  by  a powerful  body  of  insurgents,  and  forced 
to  seek  his  personal  safety  by  embarking  on  board  a 
vessel  of  war  that  happened  to  be  lying  in  the  harbor. 

This  sketch  of  the  current  political  history  of  Brazil 
will  be  closed  by  adding  a translation  of  an  article 
from  the  Carapuceiro,  a writer  whose  pieces  have 
figured  prominently  in  the  Brazilian  newspapers  for 
several  years  past.  The  extract  will  serve  the  double 
purpose  of  exhibiting  a specimen  of  the  style  of  one 
of  the  most  popular  Brazilian  writers  of  the  present 
day,  and  also  an  unprejudiced  delineation,  under  the 
garb  of  modest  satire,  of  things  as  they  are. 

“THE  ELECTIONS  OF  1844. 

“What  a delicate  subject!  Will  it  be  possible  for 
me  to  touch  it  without  offending  my  neighbor?  I 
think  so,  if  I cleave  close  to  principles,  avoiding  per- 
sonalities. We  used  formerly  to  have  a great  man 
among  us  who  attributed  every  calamity  that  happen- 
ed to  the  scarcity  of  money.  With  much  more  reason 
might  we  attribute  most  of  the  evils  which  we  are  suf- 
fering at  present  to  our  elections. 

“ It  would  appear  that  an  election  among  us  is  a 
public  calamity — a grand  polytechnic  school  of  all  the 
arts  of  corruption  and  immorality,  from  base  adulation 
to  shameless  perfidy.  Hence  it  has  been  wrell  said, 


THE  CONSTITUTION. 


381 


that  during  the  elections  all  guaranties  of  honor  and 
probity  are  suspended.  How  many  quarrels  there  are, 
how  many  threats,  how  many  homicides  even,  which 
would  never  have  occurred  but  for  the  elections  ! 

“ In  some  countries,  I am  aware,  the  elections  are 
always  tempestuous — parties  rage  and  threaten  dread- 
ful things — but  the  elections  once  over,  those  that  have 
conquered  are  regarded  as  the  most  lucky,  and  all  be- 
come good  friends  again. 

“ Not  so  here.  Intrigues  advance,  and  hatred  plots 
revenge,  which,  sooner  or  later,  breaks  out  with  terri- 
ble consequences.  And  is  it  possible  that  a people 
can  become  more  moral  while  indulging  such  passions? 
I doubt  very  much;  and  yet  I may  be  deceived,  and 
this  may  be  some  new  way  of  polishing  and  civilizing 
a people.  Our  constitution,  regarded  abstractly,  is  an 
excellent  document,  but  it  would  seem  that  Brazil  was 
rather  simple  for  taking  it  just  as  it  is.  It  now  pro- 
hibits certain  persons  from  holding  certain  kinds  of 
office,  which  circumstance  causes  them  great  grief  and 
inconvenience.  For  example,  some  of  our  judges  de- 
sire also  to  be  magistrates,  legislators,  and,  in  fact, 
every  thing  else  of  importance,  at  the  same  moment. 
It  has  generally  happened  that  our  legislative  halls 
have  contained  a majority  of  judges,  magistrates,  and 
jurists,  and  what  have  they  done?  Some  have  con- 
sented, and  others  have  assisted,  to  trample  the  fun- 
damental laws  of  the  nation  under  their  feet. 

“ Generally  speaking,  public  functionaries  are  per- 
sons of  all  others  least  fit  to  be  elected  deputies,  on 
account  of  their  dependence  on  the  government ; and  I 
am  persuaded,  that  if  a majority  in  our  legislative 
bodies  were  always  composed  of  capitalists,  merchants. 


3S2 


POLITICAL  EXTREMES. 


and  cultivators,  the  affairs  of  Brazil  would  be  better 
taken  care  of. 

“ We  are  a people  given  to  extremes.  Until  recent- 
ly the  legislative  power  embraced  every  tiling,  and  the 
executive  was  perfectly  submissive  to  its  mandates. 
Since  that  period  it  has  been  understood  that  every 
thing  is  to  go  into  the  bands  of  the  executive.  But  in 
both  cases  the  representative  character  of  our  govern- 
ment is  well  nigh  destroyed.  Who  does  not  know  how 
the  elections  are  managed?  For  instance,  a seat  in 
the  senate  is  vacant,  and  a minister  of  the  crown  de- 
sires the  office.  Directly  things  are  arranged  in  view 
of  this.  Secret  orders  are  sent  to  the  poor  province 
in  which  the  election  is  to  occur,  and  electors  are 
chosen  to  suit  the  case.  These  electors  servilely  depo 
sit  their  ballots,  and  the  intrigante  is  chosen  a sena- 
tor. Can  this  he  the  free  choice  of  the  people?  Some 
think  that  such  cabals  are  inseparable  from  the  repre- 
sentative form  of  government.  But  I disbelieve  it. 
At  first  it  was  not  so  among  us. 

“ The  free  choice  by  the  people  of  their  representa- 
tives, is  the  only  democratic  element  in  our  political 
organization.  If  this  is  taken  away,  and  the  elections 
become  mere  instruments  to  carry  out  the  ambition 
and  caprices  of  those  in  power,  what  becomes  of  the 
so  much  vaunted  will  of  the  nation?  If  these  things 
are  to  be  so,  it  were  better  to  abandon  pretensions, 
to  lay  aside  hypocrisy,  and  to  return  at  once  to  abso- 
lutism, under  which  all  power  belongs  to  the  govern- 
ment. 

Alas,  for  the  poor  people!  They  are  flattered  with 
sweet  and  pleasing  words,  but  it  is  only  to  make  them 
bear  their  burdens  more  quietly.  They  say  that  we 


ADVICE  TO  VOTERS. 


383 


are  sovereigns,  but  in  what  does  our  sovereignty  con- 
sist? Alas,  alas! — in  the  privilege  of  paying  tributes 
of  blood  and  money,  of  saying  our  prayers  at  the  time 
of  the  elections,  and  of  keeping  silence  under  every 
injury  on  pain  of  punishment! ! 

“ If  I could  address  a word  to  the  voters  of  my 
country  I would  say,  choose  for  your  representatives 
those  men  who  are  the  sincere  and  constant  friends 
of  monarchy  and  the  constitution,  but  who,  at  the  same 
time,  give  guaranties  of  their  love  of  order,  and  a de- 
sire to  promote  the  moral,  as  well  as  physical,  welfare 
of  the  community.  Seek  deputies  who  will  resist  the 
encroachments  of  power,  and  who  will  cleave  to  honesty 
and  justice,  trampling  under  foot  the  chains  of  party 
bondage.” 


384 


THE  JESUITS. 


CHAPTER  XXII. 

Indians. — Jesuits. — Survey  of  the  Empire. — Its  Position. — Extent. — 
Influences  of  the  Mother  Country. — Finances. — Lack  of  Population. 
— Immigration. — Defective  Policy. — The  Slave  Trade. — Treaty  with 
England. — Education. — Obstacles. — Literature. — Language. — Reli- 
gion.— Prospects. 

When  this  work  was  commenced,  the  author  ex- 
pected to  devote  at  least  a chapter  to  the  Indians  of 
Brazil,  and  another  to  the  history  of  the  Jesuits,  and 
their  operations  within  the  boundaries  of  that  empire. 
In  view  of  his  limits,  he  can  now  simply  say,  that  both 
those  subjects  are  deeply  interesting,  and  at  the  same 
time  intimately  connected  with  each  other.  No  part  of 
the  New  World  was  more  densely  overspread  with  abo- 
riginal population  than  was  Brazil  at  the  period  of  its 
discovery.  It  is  believed  that  there  were  not  less  than 
two  hundred  distinct  tribes  existing  upon  its  soil.  Some 
of  these  were  very  powerful  in  war,  while  their  lan- 
guage and  customs  were  entirely  peculiar. 

The  Jesuits  were  the  only  men  who  ever  made  sys- 
tematic and  zealous  exertions  for  their  improvement. 
They  entered  this  field  when  their  prosperity  was  at 
its  meridian,  and  they  found  it  sufficiently  ample  for 
their  most  enlarged  ambition.  Notwithstanding  the 
extravagance  of  their  fables,  and  the  more  than  doubt- 
ful policy  which  they  generally  found  it  convenient  to 
employ,  yet  they  practised  many  real  virtues ; and  when 
we  compare  their  character  with  that  of  the  other  rival 
orders,  and  behold  them  repeatedly  mobbed  and  per- 
secuted on  account  of  their  opposition  to  vice  and 


THEIR  EXPULSION.  385 

cruelty,  we  cannot  withhold  from  them  a degree  of 
respect. 

For  about  two  hundred  years  from  the  first  esta- 
blishment of  their  order  in  Brazil,  they  labored  zeal- 
ously and  with  varied  success  in  every  part  of  the 
country,  from  the  thickets  of  the  Upper  Amazon  to  the 
plains  of  Piratininga.  They  were  repeatedly  expelled 
from  some  of  the  cities  and  provinces,  but  they  as  often 
recovered  favor  and  returned.  Finally,  the  great  effort 
made  for  their  overthrow  succeeded.  No  person  had 
a more  powerful  agency  in  that  movement  than  the 
Marquis  of  Pombal,  the  prime  minister  of  Portugal, 
and  nowhere  were  the  decrees  against  the  Jesuits 
executed  with  more  rigor  and  even  cruelty  than  in 
Brazil,  under  his  instructions.  Not  only  were  all  their 
possessions  confiscated  and  the  members  of  the  order 
banished,  but  they  were  seized  in  person,  and  thrown 
into  prison  without  ceremony  or  mercy.  Finally,  not 
less  than  four  hundred  and  eighty  of  them  were  simul- 
taneously transported  from  different  ports  along  the 
coast.  They  were  crowded  into  the  holds  of  vessels, 
like  negroes  into  a slave-ship.  Those  who  succumbed 
to  these  hardships  were  neither  allowed  the  common 
alleviations  of  sickness,  nor,  what  they  more  desired, 
the  sacrament  in  the  hour  of  death.  Those  who  sur- 
vived the  passage  were  immured  in  the  dungeons  of 
Portugal,  from  which  many  of  them  never  emerged. 

After  the  numerous  details  which  this  work  contains 
upon  almost  every  topic  relating  to  Brazil,  and  its  dif- 
ferent provinces,  it  is  now  only  necessary,  in  conclu- 
sion, to  take  a brief  survey  of  the  empire. 

The  favorable  position,  and  the  vast  extent  of  the 
Brazilian  empire,  must  always  secure  for  it  a promi- 

Vol.  II.— 49  2 H 


386 


SURVEY  OF  THE  EMPIRE. 


nent  place  in  the  eyes  of  the  world.  Indeed,  few  na- 
tions can  enter  into  comparison  with  it  in  either  of 
these  respects.  Brazil  stands  out  upon  the  eastern 
shore  of  South  America  as  the  great  way-mark  of  the 
Southern  Atlantic.  It  commands  equal  access  to  Eu- 
rope and  the  United  States.  Africa  and  the  West 
Indies  are  its  neighbors  ; while  the  voyage  from  its 
principal  ports  to  Southern  Asia  and  the  islands  of  the 
Indian  Ocean,  is  shorter  by  ten  or  twelve  thousand 
miles  than  from  either  Liverpool  or  New  York.  At 
the  same  time,  Brazil  embraces  nearly  half  of  all  South 
America,  covering  an  area  considerably  greater  than 
that  of  the  United  States  with  their  territories,  and 
equal  to  six-sevenths  of  all  Europe. 

The  internal  resources  of  the  empire  are  commen- 
surate with  its  favored  position  and  its  wide  extent. 
It  is  neither  the  gold  of  its  mines,  nor  the  diamonds 
that  sparkle  in  the  beds  of  its  inland  rivers,  that  con- 
stitute the  greatest  sources  of  its  available  wealth. 
Although  nature  has  bestowed  upon  Brazil  the  most 
precious  minerals,  yet  she  has  been  still  more  prodigal 
in  the  gift  of  vegetable  riches.  Embracing  the  whole 
latitude  of  the  southern  torrid,  and  ten  degrees  of  the 
southern  temperate  zone,  and  stretching  its  longitude 
from  Cape  St.  Augustine,  the  easternmost  point  of  the 
continent,  across  the  mountains  of  its  own  interior  to 
the  very  feet  of  the  Andes,  its  soil  and  its  climate  offer 
an  asylum  to  almost  every  valuable  plant.  In  addition 
to  numberless  varieties  of  indigenous  growth,  there  is 
scarcely  a production  of  either  India  which  might  not 
be  naturalized  in  great  perfection  under  or  near  the 
Equator;  while  its  interior  uplands,  and  its  soil  in  the 
far  south,  welcome  many  of  the  grains  and  hardier 
vegetables  of  Europe. 


INFLUENCES  OF  THE  MOTHER  COUNTRY.  38T 

Not  only  does  Brazil  embrace  whatever  is  beautiful, 
whatever  is  luxuriant,  and  whatever  is  magnificent  in 
nature,  but  it  enjoys  a pleasant  and  a salubrious  cli- 
mate. There  prevails,  throughout  its  whole  extent,  a 
degree  of  healthfulness  unknown  in  the  parallel  lati- 
tudes of  Africa;  and,  at  the  same  time,  an  exemption 
from  earthquakes,  which  the  treasures  of  Chili  and 
Peru,  on  the  opposite  coast  of  South  America,  can  but 
poorly  compensate. 

Within  such  limits,  and  occupying  such  a position, 
we  find  established  the  only  monarchy  existing  in  the 
New  World.  Here  is  enthroned  a branch  of  the  dynasty 
of  Portugal.  Portugal,  one  of  the  smallest  kingdoms 
of  Europe,  has  here  given  her  language  and  her  people 
to  a country  seventy-seven  times  larger  than  herself. 

It  is  impossible  to  appreciate  the  present  condition 
of  Brazil,  without  taking  into  view  the  influences  of  the 
mother  country.  Notwithstanding  the  wealth  and  glory 
of  Portugal  during  the  short  period  of  her  maritime 
supremacy,  there  are  but  few  countries  in  Europe  less 
fitted  to  become  the  model  of  a prosperous  state  in 
modern  times.  In  whatever  light  we  consider  Portu- 
gal, or  her  institutions,  we  find  them  altogether  behind 
the  spirit  of  the  age.  Yet  that  country,  as  insignificant 
in  size  as  it  is  indifferent  in  condition,  held  nearly  half 
of  South  America  under  the  iron  sway  of  colonial 
bondage  from  the  period  of  its  discovery  until  1822. 

The  short  space  of  twenty-three  years  is  all  that 
Brazil  has  yet  enjoyed  for  the  great  object  of  establish- 
ing her  character  as  an  independent  nation.  During  that 
period,  she  has  had  to  contend  with  great  and  almost 
numberless  difficulties.  A large  proportion  of  the  in- 
habitants were  persons  born  or  educated  in  Portugal, 


3S8 


IMPROVEMENT. 


and  consequently  imbued  with  the  narrow  views  and 
the  illiberal  feelings  so  common  to  the  Portuguese. 
The  laws,  the  modes  of  doing  business,  as  well  as  of 
thinking  and  of  acting,  that  universally  prevailed,  were 
Portuguese.  All  these  required  decided  renovation,  in 
order  to  suit  the  circumstances  of  a new  empire  rising 
into  being  during  the  progress  of  the  nineteenth  century. 

Such  a renovation  is  not  the  work  of  a day ; and 
if  it  should  appear  that  as  yet  it  has  only  properly 
commenced,  still  the  Brazilian  nation  will  stand  before 
the  world  as  deserving  the  highest  credit.  She  has 
broken  off  bonds  that  had  remained  riveted  upon  her 
for  ages.  She  has  advanced,  from  a degrading  colonial 
servitude,  to  a high  and  honorable  position  among  the 
nations  of  the  earth.  What  is,  perhaps,  still  better, 
she  cherishes  a desire  for  improvement.  She  directs  a 
vigilant  eye  towards  other  nations — she  observes  the 
working  of  their  different  institutions,  and  manifests  a 
disposition  to  adopt  those  which  are  truly  excellent,  as 
far  and  as  fast  as  they  can  be  adapted  to  her  circum- 
stances. 

Brazil  is  suffering  at  the  present  time  most  severely 
from  two  causes.  1.  The  crippled  and  deteriorating 
state  of  her  finances.  2.  The  lack  of  a free  and  intel- 
ligent population,  corresponding  in  number  to  the  ex- 
tent of  her  territory. 

These  evils  are,  in  some  degree,  common  in  their 
origin.  The  revenues  of  the  empire  are  almost  entirely 
the  product  of  heavy  duties  upon  commerce.  Unfor- 
tunately, the  nation  has  no  manufactures  to  call  for  her 
tariff  as  a means  of  protection.  Hence,  her  duties 
upon  imports  constitute  a direct  tax  upon  internal 
consumption,  while  the  duties  upon  exports  embarrass 


FINANCES. 


389 


her  trade  abroad.  Thus  agriculture  is  doubly  oppress- 
ed, and  the  immense  resources  of  the  country  remain 
undeveloped. 

Were  there  no  other  means  of  providing  for  the  ex 
penses  of  government,  it  would,  perhaps,  be  idle  to 
dwell  upon  this  ruinous  process,  unless  it  were  to  com- 
ment upon  it  as  a necessary  evil.  But  is  there  no 
possibility  of  raising  a revenue  for  Brazil  from  the  sale 
of  public  lands?  Millions  upon  millions  of  acres  re- 
main as  yet  unappropriated,  notwithstanding  the  utter 
carelessness  with  which  the  richest  and  most  valuable 
portions  of  the  public  domain  have  hitherto  been  yield- 
ed to  the  ownership  of  whomsoever  might  incline  to 
take  possession  of  it.  Might  not  government  surveys 
be  instituted,  and  the  whole  country  brought  under 
legal  demarkation  ? Hitherto,  not  one-fiftieth  part  of 
it  was  ever  surveyed ; and  even  in  some  populous 
districts  great  uncertainty  respecting  boundaries  still 
exists.  But  what  advantages  could  result,  from  these 
surveys,  unless  foreign  immigration  were  encouraged? 
Comparatively  few  indeed. 

This,  however,  is  another  step  essential  to  the  pros- 
perity of  Brazil;  and  the  sooner  the  nation  is  aroused 
to  its  importance  the  better.  Without  the  aid  of  im- 
migration, ages  if  not  centuries  must  yet  elapse,  be- 
fore the  capacities  of  that  great  country  will  be  fairly 
exhibited.  In  fact,  it  may  be  doubted,  whether  the 
perpetuated  slave-trade,  and  the  increase  of  the  slave 
population,  will  not,  without  such  a balance,  reduce  the 
free  inhabitants  to  the  condition  of  a dependent  mino- 
rity. Yet  some  Brazilian  statesmen  seem  to  think  that 
wonders  have  been  already  accomplished  towards  en- 
couraging immigration.  Improvements  have  been 

2 h 2 


390 


IMMIGRATION. 


made,  it  is  true,  upon  the  old  absolute  system,  accord- 
ing to  which,  foreigners  in  former  years  were  scarcely 
allowed  to  set  foot  on  the  soil.  But  those  improve- 
ments are  exceedingly  limited.  If  it  be  not  so,  whence 
arises  the  necessity  of  hiring  Europeans  to  settle  in 
one  of  the  most  inviting  sections  of  the  new  world  ? 
And  why  is  it,  that  the  number  of  immigrants  landing 
yearly  in  all  the  ports  of  Brazil,  from  all  causes  com- 
bined, is  not  equal  to  the  average  monthly  arrivals  in 
the  single  port  of  New  York?  The  answer  is  at  hand. 
There  are  radical  defects  in  the  policy  of  the  country  on 
this  subject;  defects  which  must  be  fundamentally  re- 
medied, before  the  population  or  the  prosperity  of  Brazil 
can  ever  be  increased  to  any  considerable  degree  by 
accession  from  abroad. 

I will  not  discuss  the  question  whether  emigration  to 
a monarchical  government  in  the  New  World  can  ever 
be  popular  with  the  poorer  classes  of  Europe.  It  is 
sufficient  to  remark,  that  if  the  subjects  of  monarchies 
are  particularly  partial  to  the  institutions  under  which 
they  have  been  reared,  it  would  be  natural  to  suppose 
that  they  would  prefer  finding  similar  institutions, 
rather  than  a republican  government,  wherever  they 
might  wish  to  go. 

Unpleasant  as  it  is  to  make  the  remark,  yet  it  is  true, 
that  the  present  regulations  of  the  Brazilian  govern- 
ment upon  this  subject,  tend  rather  to  forbid  than  to 
invite  immigration.  They  are  jealous,  illiberal,  and 
degrading.  The  only  people  who  can  submit  to  them 
arc  the  poor,  ignorant,  and  too  often  vicious  inhabi- 
tants of  the  Portuguese  islands,  to  whose  circumstances 
and  habits  they  seem  to  be  specially  adapted. 

One  would  naturally  suppose  that  the  Catholic  Irish 


DEFECTIVE  POLICY. 


391 


would  prefer  emigrating  to  a Catholic  country,  rather 
than  to  a land  settled  by  Protestant  pilgrims.  Facts 
do  not  corroborate  this  supposition,  but  on  the  con- 
trary, they  indicate  that  the  Catholic  emigrant  finds 
more  toleration  among  Protestants,  than  he  can  even 
in  a country  professing  his  own  faith.  Various  schemes, 
both  private  and  public,  have  been  set  on  foot  to  en- 
courage emigration  to  Brazil,  but  they  will  all  prove 
abortive  until  the  principles  of  perfect  toleration  pre- 
vail in  the  country.  I am  aware  that  the  constitution 
nominally  tolerates  all  religions,  and  that  very  liberal 
feelings  arc  cherished  by  enlightened  and  well-educated 
Brazilians  generally.  Nevertheless,  the  lower  classes 
of  the  people,  particularly  the  Portuguese  and  their 
immediate  descendants,  have  a great  amount  of  na- 
tional prejudice  and  inherent  bigotry  to  conquer  before 
the  position  of  foreign  settlers  among  them  would  be 
at  all  pleasant. 

Again,  there  seems  to  have  been  a preference  hither- 
to given  to  the  plan  of  settling  foreigners  in  distinct 
communities,  and  not  of  encouraging  them  to  inter- 
mingle with  the  inhabitants.  That  this  plan  is  defec- 
tive is  manifest,  from  the  circumstance  that  few  or 
none  of  these  colonies  have  prospered.  Besides,  no- 
thing is  more  evidently  lacking  in  all  parts  of  Brazil 
than  a sufficient  number  of  practical,  industrious  me- 
chanics. An  accession  to  this  class  of  inhabitants  from 
almost  any  nation,  would  greatly  elevate  the  condition 
of  internal  improvements,  and  advance  the  common 
interests  of  the  country.  The  day  is  infinitely  to  be 
desired  when  Brazil  shall  be  able  to  dispense  with 
special  exemptions,  and  what  is  worse,  lotteries,  as 
means  of  promoting  the  common  arts  of  life,  such  as 


392 


THE  SLAVE  TRADE. 


the  manufacture  of  varnished  leather,  of  soap,  of  can- 
dles, and  of  the  rearing  of  bees!  But  whether  that 
day  will  be  seen  while  the  present  system  of  slavery 
exists,  is  quite  problematical. 

It  is  generally  known,  that  notwithstanding  all  laws, 
regulations,  conventions,  and  treaties,  the  slave  trade 
is  still  carried  on  between  the  coast  of  Africa  and 
Brazil.  The  British  cruisers  during  the  last  few  years 
have  taken  great  numbers  of  prizes  on  both  coasts ; 
but  though  they  should  continue  to  do  so,  it  is  to  be 
feared  that  the  horrid  traffic  will  still  be  continued, 
until  new  and  more  efficient  measures  shall  be  devised 
for  putting  it  down. 

So  long  as  Baltimore  clippers  are  constructed  ex- 
pressly for  this  trade — so  long  as  British  capitalists 
furnish  funds  or  credits  to  sustain  it — and  so  long  as 
Brazilian  authorities  openly  and  covertly  wink  at  the 
nefarious  business,  how  can  it  fail  to  go  forward  ? 

When  such  extensive  interests  are  combined  in  the 
expectation  of  securing  extravagant  gains,  it  must  be 
evident  that  no  ordinary  power  can  break  up  the 
wicked  coalition.  It  would  not  be  difficult  for  me  to 
give  thrilling  details  of  the  horrors  that  result  from 
what  may  be  denominated  the  modern  refinements  of 
the  slave  trade.  But  this  is  not  my  subject.  I will 
simply  remark,  that  could  Brazilian  planters  and  citi- 
zens be  persuaded  of  their  true  interest  in  connection 
with  this  matter — could  the  Brazilian  government  de- 
termine to  take  an  unwavering  stand  in  opposition  to 
the  traffic — and  finally,  could  its  various  public  officers 
persuade  themselves  to  run  the  risk  of  threatened  as- 
sassination rather  than  receive  the  bribes  of  the  slave- 
dealers,  there  would  be  hope  of  its  final  extinction. 


TREATY  WITH  ENGLAND. 


393 


Until  these  objects  are  in  some  good  degree  accom- 
plished, there  will  still  be  found  some  method  of  evading 
laws  and  escaping  penalties. 

The  established  commercial  relations  of  Brazil  are 
not  all  of  a character  the  most  profitable  to  herself. 
England,  by  a policy  of  which  she  is  mistress,  has  made 
herself  quite  at  home  in  this  portion  of  the  New  World. 
Her  citizens  have  their  churches,  their  burying  grounds, 
their  courts,  their  post  office,  their  steam  packet  and 
gold  mining  companies,  and  an  extensive  monopoly  of 
manufactured  goods.  English  funds,  moreover,  regu- 
late the  exchanges  and  govern  the  currency.  Not- 
withstanding all  this,  England  receives  scarcely  any 
Brazilian  produce,  but  exports  whatever  specie  may 
be  found  in  the  country  for  the  liquidation  of  her  claims. 
The  Brazilians  have  long  been  dissatisfied  with  this 
state  of  things,  but  had  no  remedy  until  the  late  expi- 
ration of  the  treaty  between  the  two  countries. 

Previous  to  that  event,  the  English  government  sent 
out  the  Hon.  H.  Ellis,  with  special  powers  to  negotiate 
a new  treaty.  His  mission  was  unsuccessful.  The 
Brazilian  government  soon  after  reciprocated  it  with  a 
similar  result.  The  consequences  are,  that  for  the  pre- 
sent, the  two  nations  will  conduct  their  business  upon 
the  terms  of  common  reciprocity,  without  a treaty.  The 
Brazilian  government  has  taken  occasion  to  increase 
its  tariff  upon  English  goods,  but  whether  in  the  end  it 
will  gain  by  this  arrangement  remains  to  be  seen. 

The  subject  of  education  in  Brazil  is  one  of  great 
and  increasing  interest.  In  the  new  system  of  school 
instruction,  the  French  model  has  been  generally  fol- 
lowed. Having  already  described  institutions  of  the 

Vol.  II— 50 


394 


EDUCATION. 


various  grades,  from  the  primary  school  to  the  law  uni- 
versity, it  will  now  be  sufficient  to  remark,  that  a great 
degree  of  improvement  upon  the  former  state  of  things 
is  already  manifest,  but  at  the  same  time  the  work  of 
educational  reform  has  only  commenced.  The  govern- 
ment has  adopted  a liberal  policy  on  this  subject,  but 
unhappily  its  measures  are  not  in  all  respects  the  most 
judicious.  To  instance  a single  point,  the  schools  are 
supported  by  direct  annual  appropriations  from  the 
funds  of  the  several  provinces,  save  those  which  fall 
under  the  supervision  of  the  general  government,  to 
wit,  the  law  universities  and  the  schools  of  the  capital. 
Hence  there  is  a liability  to  fluctuation  in  the  amounts 
appropriated.  While  at  the  same  time,  the  people 
being  constrained  to  bear  the  burden  in  the  shape  of 
an  involuntary  tax,  have  none  of  their  sympathies  en- 
listed in  favor  of  the  schools,  and  too  often  neglect  to 
avail  themselves  of  their  advantages  when  established. 
In  no  instance  is  there  a public  fund  to  meet  the  ex- 
penses of  education.  How  easy  it  would  be,  even  now, 
to  appropriate  lands  for  this  object,  which,  as  they  be- 
come settled  and  increased  in  value,  would  form  a per- 
petual and  ever  enlarging  source  of  income,  sacredly 
devoted  to  the  single  purpose  of  education. 

It  cannot  be  out  of  place  to  suggest  to  the  Brazilians 
the  very  efficient  system  now  in  successful  operation  in 
the  United  States,  as  one  well  adapted  to  their  circum- 
stances, and  capable  of  being  made  to  promote  their 
interests  beyond  the  possibility  of  calculation.  In  all 
the  provinces  it  is  complained  that  there  is  a great  lack 
of  competent  teachers.  This  deficiency  has  every  pros- 
pect of  continuing  until  more  liberal  salaries  are  paid 
for  their  services,  even  though  the  normal  schools 


OBSTACLES. 


395 


should  be  more  successful  than  they  have  hitherto 
been.  Those  young  men  who  become  qualified  for  the 
important  task  of  instruction,  will  turn  their  attention 
to  more  lucrative  employments. 

Another  serious  obstacle  to  the  progress  of  educa- 
tion in  Brazil,  is  the  almost  universal  deficiency  of 
suitable  school  books.  Throughout  some  portions  of 
the  interior,  children  are  taught  to  read  from  manu- 
scripts. Printed  matter  is  very  rare,  and  generally 
very  indifferent.  A newspaper  or  a book  that  finds  its 
way  to  the  school,  virtually  becomes  public  property, 
and  is  passed  from  hand  to  hand  as  an  acquisition  from 
which  all,  by  the  common  laws  of  humanity,  are  entitled 
to  expect  some  benefit. 

In  addition  to  what  has  already  been  mentioned,  it 
is  to  be  feared  that  education  in  Brazil  meets  with  the 
most  serious  embarrassments  in  the  spirit  and  habits 
of  large  portions  of  the  people.  They  have  not  been 
trained  up  to  appreciate  the  importance  of  mental  cul- 
tivation. Their  tastes  have  been  formed  after  the 
model  of  other  times.  Their  highest  ambition  of  in- 
tellectual enjoyment  is  associated  with  the  dull  excite- 
ments of  the  festas.  What  is  more  degrading  still,  they 
are  many  of  them  under  spiritual  subjection  to  men 
who  are  jealous  of  improvement,  and  who  resist  efforts 
in  its  behalf  as  dreadful  innovations. 

A priest,  residing  in  one  of  the  most  prominent  cities 
of  the  empire,  and  indeed,  exercising  his  functions  be- 
neath the  very  shadow  of  one  of  the  universities,  was 
heard  to  say,  “ Nao  gosto  de  livros ; gosto  mais  de  jo- 
gar ” — “I  have  no  relish  for  books;  I like  gaming 
better.”  In  corroboration  of  these  remarks,  is  the 


396 


LITERATURE. 


language  of  a distinguished  Brazilian  statesman,  ut- 
tered before  the  imperial  legislature: — 

“As  it  respects  the  civilization  of  the  Brazilian 
people,  properly  speaking,  almost  nothing,  unfortu- 
nately, has  been  done.  A narrow  strip  on  the  coast  is 
that  which  alone  enjoys  the  benefits  of  civilization, 
while  in  the  interior  our  people  are  still  to  a great 
degree  enveloped  in  the  greatest  barbarism.”  In  im- 
mediate connection  with  this  remark,  the  same  gentle- 
man added:  “ We  have  been  unable  to  do  any  thing, 
and  nothing  can  be  accomplished  without  the  aid  of  a 
moral  and  intelligent  clergy.” 

Notwithstanding  the  gloomy  picture  sketched  in  these 
brief  but  just  intimations,  there  is  much  room  to  hope 
for  Brazil  on  the  score  of  education.  The  school- 
master is  abroad  in  the  empire;  the  press  is  at  work, 
and  thousands  of  the  citizens,  those  who  have  been 
educated  at  home  and  abroad,  are  awake  to  the  im- 
portance of  both  those  means  of  public  enlightenment. 

The  history  of  Brazilian  literature  is  brief;  yet  under 
the  circumstances  in  which  it  has  sprung  up,  that  lite- 
rature must  be  considered  creditable.  Of  all  that  has 
been  written  in  the  Portuguese  language  within  the  last 
hundred  years,  Brazil  has  produced  her  full  proportion 
of  what  is  meritorious.  Without  entering  into  details 
upon  this  point,  it  is  sufficient  to  mention  the  names 
of  Caldas  and  Magalhaens,  in  the  department  of  poe- 
try; Moraes  in  philology;  and  the  Andradas  in  science 
and  philosophy.  Within  the  last  few  years  there  has 
been  a decided  and  promising  movement  at  the  capital 
in  behalf  of  literature  and  the  diffusion  of  useful 
knowledge.  Several  institutions  have  sprung  up  which 


LANGUAGE.  397 

it  is  hoped  will  exert  a salutary  and  an  extensive  in- 
fluence. 

It  must,  perhaps,  be  considered  as  a misfortune  to 
Brazil  in  a literary  point  of  view,  that  her  language  is 
the  Portuguese.  A prejudice  against  that  language 
prevails  extensively  among  foreign  nations.  Although 
that  prejudice  is  in  a great  degree  unjust,  yet  it  will 
not  soon  be  overcome.  Hitherto  the  meagerness  of 
Portuguese  literature,  if  it  has  not  originated  the  sen- 
timent alluded  to,  has  at  least  strengthened  it.  The 
learned  have  seldom  been  induced  to  form  that  acquaint- 
ance with  the  language  which  is  essential  to  an  appre- 
ciation of  its  real  merits.  Those  who  have  formed 
that  acquaintance,  accord  to  it  high  praises.  Mr. 
Southey,  for  example,  has  declared  it  to  be  “inferior 
to  no  modern  speech,”  and  to  contain  “some  of  the 
most  original  and  admirable  works  that  he  had  ever 
perused.”  This  being  the  fact,  if  the  Brazilians  shall 
develop  the  genius  and  the  application  necessary  to 
such  a result,  they  may  yet,  by  creating  a literature 
worthy  of  themselves,  secure  the  respect  and  admira- 
tion of  the  world. 

A French  writer,  M.  Denis,  has  attempted  to  show, 
that  the  influence  of  the  climate  and  scenery  of  Brazil 
is  peculiarly  calculated  to  inspire  sublimity  of  thought, 
and  to  promote  power  of  imagination.  There  is,  per- 
haps, no  country  whose  literary  enterprises  would  be 
looked  upon  with  more  favor,  both  in  the  Old  World 
and  the  New.  Hence,  every  motive  that  an  honor- 
able ambition  can  inspire,  is  presented  to  Brazilian 
scholars. 

Notwithstanding  so  little  is  known  of  the  Portuguese 
21 


398 


TEMPERANCE. 


language  to  certain  classes  of  the  literati,  it  prevails 
wherever  there  are  or  have  been  settlements  of  that 
nation ; not  only  in  Brazil  and  the  Portuguese  islands, 
but  along  the  coasts  of  Africa  and  India,  from  Guinea 
to  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  and  from  the  Cape  of 
Good  Hope  to  the  sea  of  China,  extending  over  almost 
all  the  islands  of  the  Malayan  Archipelago. 

How  interesting  it  would  be  to  witness  light  and 
truth  radiating  from  Brazil,  and  spreading  their  influ- 
ences to  each  of  those  distant  climes!  Before  such  an 
event  can  be  reasonably  anticipated,  important  changes 
must  take  place  in  the  moral  and  religious  condition 
of  the  country. 

In  connection  with  this  allusion  to  public  morals,  it 
is  proper  to  say,  that  the  Brazilians  are,  in  general,  a 
temperate  people.  Although  the  use  of  wine  is  com- 
mon among  them,  wherever  it  can  be  procured — and 
although  cachassa,  one  of  the  worst  species  of  alcoho- 
lic drinks,  is  almost  as  common  as  water — yet  public 
drunkenness  is  rarely  witnessed  in  Brazil,  unless  it  be 
among  foreign  sailors  who  visit  the  ports.  That  intem- 
perance prevails  quite  too  much,  both  in  high  life  and 
low,  cannot  be  doubted;  nevertheless  it  exists  within 
such  limits  as  to  render  it  less  destructive  than  it  is  in 
many  nations. 

On  few  subjects  do  Brazilian  w'riters,  of  all  classes, 
express  themselves  with  greater  unanimity  of  opinion 
than  respecting  the  state  of  religion  in  the  country. 
People  and  ecclesiastics,  officers  of  state,  men  of  busi- 
ness, and  politicians,  all  agree  in  representing  the  con- 
dition and  prospects  of  religion  as  low  and  unpro- 
mising. 

© 


ECCLESIASTICAL  AFFAIRS. 


399 


Monasticism  is  on  the  decline — the  number  of  secu- 
lar priests  is  diminishing — the  churches  are  falling  into 
ruin,  and  the  spirit  and  principles  of  infidelity  are 
already  disseminated  far  and  wide ! All  this  in  a coun- 
try peopled  by  the  descendants  of  the  inquisitors,  and 
in  which,  from  the  period  of  its  discovery,  Roman  Ca- 
tholicism has  held  an  undisputed  predominance. 

The  following  statements  are  translated  from  the 
report  of  the  minister  of  justice  and  ecclesiastical 
affairs,  addressed  to  the  imperial  legislature  of  1843 : — 

“ The  state  of  retrogression  into  which  our  clergy 
are  falling  is  notorious.  The  necessity  of  adopting 
measures  to  remedy  such  an  evil  is  also  evident.  On 
the  9th  of  September,  1842,  the  government  addressed 
inquiries  on  this  subject  to  the  bishops  and  capitular 
vicars.  Although  complete  answers  have  not  been 
received  from  all  of  them,  yet  the  following  particulars 
are  certified. 

“ The  lack  of  priests  who  will  dedicate  themselves 
to  the  cure  of  souls,  or  who  even  offer  themselves  as 
candidates,  is  surprising.  In  the  province  of  Para 
there  are  parishes  which,  for  twelve  years  and  up- 
wards, have  had  no  pastor.  The  district  of  the  river 
Negro,  containing  some  fourteen  settlements,  has  but 
one  priest;  while  that  of  the  river  Solimoens  is  in  simi- 
lar circumstances.  In  the  three  comarcas  of  Belem, 
the  Upper  and  the  Lower  Amazon,  there  are  thirty- 
six  vacant  parishes.  In  Maranham  twenty-five  churches 
have,  at  different  times,  been  advertised  as  open  for 
applications,  without  securing  the  offer  of  a single  can- 
didate. 

“ The  bishop  of  S.  Paulo  affirms  the  same  thing 


. 400 


GENERAL  DECLENSION. 


respecting  vacant  churches  in  his  diocese,  and  it  is  no 
uncommon  experience  elsewhere.  In  the  diocese  of 
Cuvaba  not  a single  church  is  provided  with  a settled 
curate,  and  those  priests  who  officiate  as  stated  sup- 
plies, treat  the  bishop’s  efforts  to  instruct  and  improve 
them  with  great  indifference. 

“In  the  bishopric  of  Rio  de  Janeiro  most  of  the 
churches  are  supplied  with  pastors,  but  a great  num- 
ber of  them  only  temporarily.  This  diocese  embraces 
four  provinces,  but  during  nine  years  past  not  more 
than  five  or  six  priests  have  been  ordained  per  year. 

“It  maybe  observed,  that  the  numerical  ratio  of 
those  priests  who  die,  or  become  incompetent  through 
age  and  infirmity,  is  two  to  one  of  those  who  receive 
ordination.  Even  among  those  who  are  ordained,  few 
devote  themselves  to  the  pastoral  work.  They  either 
turn  their  attention  to  secular  pursuits,  as  a means  of 
securing  greater  conveniences,  emoluments,  and  respect, 
or  they  look  out  for  chaplaincies,  and  other  situations, 
which  offer  equal  or  superior  inducements,  without 
subjecting  them  to  the  literary  tests,  the  trouble  and 
the  expense  necessary  to  secure  an  ecclesiastical  be- 
nefice. 

“ This  is  not  the  place  to  investigate  the  causes  of 
such  a state  of  things,  but  certain  it  is,  that  no  per- 
sons of  standing  devote  their  sons  to  the  priesthood. 
Most  of  those  who  seek  the  sacred  office  are  indigent 
persons,  who,  by  their  poverty,  are  often  prevented 
from  pursuing  the  requisite  studies.  Without  doubt  a 
principal  reason  why  so  few  devote  themselves  to  eccle- 
siastical pursuits,  is  to  be  found  in  the  small  income 
allowed  them.  Moreover,  the  perquisites  established 


SPECULATION  ON  TITHES. 


401 


as  the  remuneration  of  certain  clerical  services,  have 
resumed  the  voluntary  character  which  they  had  in 
primitive  times,  and  the  priest  who  attempts  to  coerce 
his  parishioners  into  the  payment  of  them  almost  al- 
ways renders  himself  odious,  and  gets  little  or  nothing 
for  his  trouble.” 

The  regulations  under  which  the  clergy  of  Brazil 
are  now  suffering,  were  established  as  far  back  as 
1752.  By  a royal  decree  of  that  date,  all  the  tithes 
of  the  Portuguese  ultra  marine  possessions  were  secu- 
larized, being  made  payable  to  the  state,  while  the 
state  became  responsible  for  the  support  of  the  clergy. 
The  obvious  reason  for  this  regulation  was  the  dis- 
covery that  the  state  could  support  the  church  much 
cheaper  than  the  church  would  support  itself,  while  the 
tithes  remained  at  the  disposal  of  the  priesthood.  This 
was  too  fine  an  opportunity  for  speculation  to  be  ne- 
glected by  a government  crippled  and  degraded  for 
lack  of  funds,  and,  at  the  same  time,  having  the  power 
to  exercise  its  pleasure. 

The  arrangement  proved  no  less  profitable  than  con- 
venient ; and  once  being  established,  could  not  be 
changed.  The  government  put  the  priests  on  short 
allowance,  and  fixed  their  salaries  at  fifty,  eighty,  and 
one  hundred  milreis — sums  which  have  been  lessening 
ever  since,  by  a depreciation  of  the  currency.  Efforts 
have  been  made  in  Brazil,  since  the  era  of  independ- 
ence, to  raise  the  stipend  of  the  clergy,  and  they  have 
been  nominally  successful,  although  the  present  salary 
of  two  hundred  milreis,  is  scarcely  more  valuable  than 
the  sum  of  one  hundred  formerly  was. 

That  the  scanty  emoluments  of  the  clergy  have  had 

Vol.  II.— 51  2 i 2 


402 


RELIGIOUS  WANTS. 


the  effect  to  lessen  the  number  of  incumbents,  there 
can  be  no  doubt;  but  that  they  have,  on  the  whole, 
been  productive  of  injury  in  any  form,  is  not  so  evi- 
dent, since,  as  the  archbishop  of  Bahia  once  remarked, 
“It  is  better  to  have  no  priests,  than  to  have  those 
who  are  ignorant  and  immoral.”  Indeed,  that  clergy, 
whose  ranks  are  kept  full,  chiefly  by  the  enticements 
of  filthy  lucre,  is  a curse  rather  than  a blessing  to  any 
country. 

It  may  be  safely  said,  that  at  the  present  time  Bra- 
zil is  in  want  of  nothing  more  than  pious,  self-denying 
ministers  of  the  Gospel,  men  who,  like  the  apostle  to 
the  Gcntdes,  will  not  count  their  lives  dear  unto  them- 
selves that  they  might  win  souls  to  Christ.  And  is  it 
too  much  to  hope,  that  God  in  his  providence  will  raise 
up  such  men  in  his  own  way,  especially  when  we  reflect 
that  his  own  word,  which  shall  not  return  unto  him 
void,  has  already  been  scattered  through  the  land,  and 
put  in  the  hands  of  hundreds  of  its  most  promising 
youth ! 

The  political  advantages  that  would  result  from  the 
labors  of  such  men,  would  be  of  incalculable  import- 
ance. A distinguished  member  of  the  house  of  depu- 
ties said  in  a speech  before  that  body:  “So  much 
confidence  have  I in  the  influence  of  religion,  that  I 
am  persuaded,  that  the  best  army  we  could  send  to 
those  who  are  now  in  a state  of  rebellion,  were  a pre- 
late full  of  meekness  and  of  the  spirit  of  the  Gospel, 
accompanied  by  priests  worthy  of  the  name.  Then  I 
am  sure,  that  those  people  who  are  now  so  near  the 
borders  of  half-civilized  life,  would  become  better  Bra- 
zilians than  they  are.”  This  modest  intimation  alludes 


GOVERNMENT. 


403 


to  a subject  of  infinite  importance  to  Brazil.  Unless 
some  moral  influences  more  powerful  than  those  hither- 
to employed,  shall  be  brought  to  bear  upon  vast  por- 
tions of  the  inhabitants,  it  is  impossible  to  say  when 
disorders  may  not  spring  up,  or  where  they  may  ter- 
minate. 

It  requires  no  special  partiality  for  monarchical 
principles  to  enable  any  candid  observer  to  perceive, 
that  the  present  form  of  government  in  Brazil,  is  better 
adapted  to  the  state  and  circumstances  of  the  country, 
than  a republican  government  could  be.  If  arguments 
were  needed  to  sustain  this  opinion,  they  might  be 
drawn  from  a comparison  of  the  history  and  condition 
of  Brazil  with  that  of  any  or  of  all  the  Spanish  Ameri- 
can republics.  While  they  have  been  rent  asunder 
with  internal  strife,  and  while  blood,  carnage,  and  re- 
volution have  not  ceased  to  be  the  order  of  the  day 
within  them,  since  the  moment  they  first  aspired  after 
a degree  of  liberty  which  they  so  little  comprehended, 
and  which  they  were  so  poorly  qualified  to  enjoy ; Brazil 
has  remained  united,  and,  with  comparatively  slight 
exceptions,  has  pursued  her  onward  course  with  in- 
creasing prosperity. 

Nevertheless,  elements  of  disorder  exist  in  Brazil, 
which  have  the  terrible  capacity,  unless  effectually 
restrained,  of  starting  into  action,  and,  by  their  ruinous 
progress,  throwing  her  fairest  prospects  into  gloom,  if 
not  crushing  for  ever  the  power  of  her  now  flourishing 
and  almost  idolized  dynasty.  Ignorance,  superstition, 
intolerance,  and  vice,  are  the  strong  bulwarks  behind 
which  these  hostile  elements  gather  strength;  and 
until  they  can  be  removed  by  the  gentle  sway  of  know- 


404 


PROSPECTS. 


lodge  and  piety,  it  is  idle  to  expect  permanent  pros- 
perity, or  uninterrupted  advancement  in  the  path  of 
national  greatness. 

No  existing  nation  is  free  from  its  difficulties  and  its 
dangers  arising  from  these  causes ; but  if  there  is  one 
nation  upon  the  globe  that  might  profit  more  than 
others  by  a complete  riddance  of  them  at  the  present 
juncture,  that  nation  is  the  Empire  of  Brazil. 


END  OF  VOL.  II. 


* 


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Date  Due 

0#Mtos$g| 

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PRINTED 

IN  U.  S.  A. 

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Sketches  of  residence  and  travels  in 

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